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the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


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The steel supplier delivers steel oversize all of the time. I just
learned to have more scrap. Getting less is a problem.
Martin

On 5/28/2015 10:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


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On 5/28/2015 11:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Google a "board stretcher" HTH

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wrote in news:mk8l5b$pue$1
@odin.sdf-eu.org:





the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Last time that happened, I had only the guy in the mirror to blame.
Fortunately, I don't have a mirror in my shop so he didn't have to endure
my wrath. :-)

If it's important that a piece not be under a specific size, there's two
ways to handle it: Have the piece cut oversize and recut it yourself, or
tell the guy doing the cutting about the requirement. I usually use the
first method, but have occasionally used the second method.

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"Contrarian" wrote in message ...

the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.


I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Sounds like they cut to the wrong side of the marks so you lost the width of
the kerf... or the end of their tape measure was buggered up!



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John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Contrarian" wrote in message ...

the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.


I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Sounds like they cut to the wrong side of the marks so you lost the width of
the kerf... or the end of their tape measure was buggered up!



one of the two. :-(

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On 5/29/2015 1:08 AM, Contrarian wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Contrarian" wrote in message ...

the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.


I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Sounds like they cut to the wrong side of the marks so you lost the width of
the kerf... or the end of their tape measure was buggered up!



one of the two. :-(

Some years ago, I seem to remember being told up-front at a lumber yard
that, while they'd do a pretty good job of cutting, it wouldn't be with
the precision of a cabinet shop.
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Contrarian wrote:
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Contrarian" wrote in message ...

the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.
I can still use them but not quite as planned.

Sounds like they cut to the wrong side of the marks so you lost the width of
the kerf... or the end of their tape measure was buggered up!

If there was no line, they probably used a different measuring tool. No
two of mine seem to read the same.




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On 5/28/15 10:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


My guess-- he marked the measurement, then cut on the "keep" side of the
mark instead of the waste side. I usually put an X on the side of the
measurement I want the blade to cut to avoid such brain-farts.

I see hardware store saws as rough cutters for convenience. I would
never use them for final cuts because I would never trust their
accuracy, straightness, or for a clean cut.


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On 5/28/2015 10:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:

the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Why woodworkers buy their own tools ...

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-MIKE- wrote:


My guess-- he marked the measurement, then cut on the "keep" side of
the mark instead of the waste side. I usually put an X on the side
of the measurement I want the blade to cut to avoid such brain-farts.

I see hardware store saws as rough cutters for convenience. I would
never use them for final cuts because I would never trust their
accuracy, straightness, or for a clean cut.


When I worked at the Depot, the guys in lumber told customers they could
only be accurate to 1/8". I never understood that. If you can make a mark
at one tick on a tape measure, why can't you make a mark at another tick -
the right one? It's not because the saws were innacurate - they were not.
I used to get called over to make cuts from time to time when lumber needed
help, and I never found the saws to be anything less than accurate. I used
to marvel at the way guys would talk between themselves after a customer
left who had insisted on precise cuts. Just never did get that.

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-MIKE- wrote in :

On 5/28/15 10:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


My guess-- he marked the measurement, then cut on the "keep" side of the
mark instead of the waste side. I usually put an X on the side of the
measurement I want the blade to cut to avoid such brain-farts.


I mark my cuts with a pencil like this:

|- or -|

to show that the blade goes right, or left, respectively, of the line.

I see hardware store saws as rough cutters for convenience. I would
never use them for final cuts because I would never trust their
accuracy, straightness, or for a clean cut.


Exactly so.
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On 5/29/15 12:48 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


My guess-- he marked the measurement, then cut on the "keep" side
of the mark instead of the waste side. I usually put an X on the
side of the measurement I want the blade to cut to avoid such
brain-farts.

I see hardware store saws as rough cutters for convenience. I
would never use them for final cuts because I would never trust
their accuracy, straightness, or for a clean cut.


When I worked at the Depot, the guys in lumber told customers they
could only be accurate to 1/8". I never understood that. If you
can make a mark at one tick on a tape measure, why can't you make a
mark at another tick - the right one? It's not because the saws
were innacurate - they were not. I used to get called over to make
cuts from time to time when lumber needed help, and I never found the
saws to be anything less than accurate. I used to marvel at the way
guys would talk between themselves after a customer left who had
insisted on precise cuts. Just never did get that.


Probably a store policy to keep people from bringing stuff back because
the store's tape didn't match theirs. Heck, I can take three different
tapes that I own and they're be an eighth difference between them all.

In any case, I cringe every time I hear the saws at my local HD. They
sound so dull, it makes your teeth hurt. :-) I'm guessing they've
gone through their fair share of metal and never got replaced.


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On 5/29/2015 4:24 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
In any case, I cringe every time I hear the saws at my local HD. They
sound so dull, it makes your teeth hurt. :-) I'm guessing they've
gone through their fair share of metal and never got replaced.


Bad, but not nearly as bad as that dull bit scream of a router that came
out of white ford van...

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On 5/29/2015 10:30 AM, Bill wrote:


If there was no line, they probably used a different measuring tool. No
two of mine seem to read the same.


In some pro shops there will be a board mounted on the wall. "If you
tape does not measure this at exactly 24" it is wrong and cannot be used"

Find a good one and adjust or discard the others.



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On 5/28/2015 11:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Some stores will only cut oversize for that reason. You have to trim
them, but if an error, it will be on you.
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On Friday, May 29, 2015 at 10:17:17 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 5/28/2015 11:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Some stores will only cut oversize for that reason. You have to trim
them, but if an error, it will be on you.


I thought they cut oversize to sell you more wood.

"Can you please cut this sheet of plywood in half?

"I'm sorry, we have to cut it at 48 1/2". You'll have to go get a second sheet if you want two 48" pieces."

;-)
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On 5/30/2015 12:46 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

You'll have to go get a second sheet if you want two 48" pieces."


Absolutely correct, no matter how you cut it.

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On 5/28/2015 10:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.




You should now consider that a lesson learned. Let me guess, you did
not consider the kerf.
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On 5/30/2015 12:46 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, May 29, 2015 at 10:17:17 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 5/28/2015 11:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Some stores will only cut oversize for that reason. You have to trim
them, but if an error, it will be on you.


I thought they cut oversize to sell you more wood.

"Can you please cut this sheet of plywood in half?

"I'm sorry, we have to cut it at 48 1/2". You'll have to go get a second sheet if you want two 48" pieces."

;-)


You realize that NO ONE can cut a sheet of plywood in half and end up
with two 48" wide pieces, right? ;~)


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On Sun, 31 May 2015 12:08:01 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/30/2015 12:46 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, May 29, 2015 at 10:17:17 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 5/28/2015 11:07 PM, Contrarian wrote:
the hardware store cut the plywood into pieces about 1/8 too short.

I can still use them but not quite as planned.


Some stores will only cut oversize for that reason. You have to trim
them, but if an error, it will be on you.


I thought they cut oversize to sell you more wood.

"Can you please cut this sheet of plywood in half?

"I'm sorry, we have to cut it at 48 1/2". You'll have to go get a second sheet if you want two 48" pieces."

;-)


You realize that NO ONE can cut a sheet of plywood in half and end up
with two 48" wide pieces, right? ;~)

Unless you start with a "standard oversized" sheet at 5X10 ft (3150 X
1530mm)
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On 5/31/15 8:16 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
They don't make 4x8' anymore. It is all metric and is close to that
size. Check the thickness of a 1/2" or 3/4" board...

Martin


Nope, just checked.
It's dead on 48"x96", unless it's that crappy Chinese stuff I got that's
not even square.


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"John Grossbohlin" wrote in
:


I guess we need to invent a "zero kerf/zero swarf" cutting method to
solve this problem... maybe a hydraulic "paper cutter" or "pizza
cutter" device would work? ;~)


I'd suggest a giant "LAY-ZER". I'll use it to cut your wood unevenly
unless you pay me... ONE MILLION DOLLARS!!!

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On 6/3/2015 9:07 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

I guess we need to invent a "zero kerf/zero swarf" cutting method to
solve this problem... maybe a hydraulic "paper cutter" or "pizza cutter"
device would work? ;~)


When building base cabinets that are traditionally 24" deep, I minimize
waste (IOW, getting two, correctly grain oriented, end panels for the
cabinet sides out of one 48" width sheet) by cutting the end panels 23
15/16" wide, then cut the dadoes in the FF's to receive the end panels
3/16" deep, instead of 1/4".

That way I end up with an assembled base cabinet that is precisely 24" deep.

Sounds a bit anal, but we often build for spaces that don't yet exist,
so religiously maintaining that type of precision throughout a project
keeps cumulative errors from causing problems during installation.

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Comes from Chile. The large tree farms there and lumber mills.

Martin

On 5/31/2015 8:24 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

On 5/31/15 8:16 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
They don't make 4x8' anymore. It is all metric and is close to that
size. Check the thickness of a 1/2" or 3/4" board...

Martin


Nope, just checked.
It's dead on 48"x96", unless it's that crappy Chinese stuff I got that's
not even square.


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Swingman wrote:
On 6/3/2015 9:07 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

I guess we need to invent a "zero kerf/zero swarf" cutting method to
solve this problem... maybe a hydraulic "paper cutter" or "pizza cutter"
device would work? ;~)


When building base cabinets that are traditionally 24" deep, I minimize
waste (IOW, getting two, correctly grain oriented, end panels for the
cabinet sides out of one 48" width sheet) by cutting the end panels 23
15/16" wide, then cut the dadoes in the FF's to receive the end panels
3/16" deep, instead of 1/4".

That way I end up with an assembled base cabinet that is precisely 24" deep.

Sounds a bit anal, but we often build for spaces that don't yet exist, so
religiously maintaining that type of precision throughout a project keeps
cumulative errors from causing problems during installation.



Wouldn't that make the cabs precisely 24-1/2" deep?
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On 05/31/2015 8:16 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
They don't make 4x8' anymore. It is all metric and is close to that
size. Check the thickness of a 1/2" or 3/4" board...

....

Last I checked on their web sites, the nominal manufacturers' exterior
dimensions were still listed in inches...well, let's check again...

Ayup...

http://www.buildgp.com/plytanium-plywood-sheathing

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Leon wrote in
:

Swingman wrote:


When building base cabinets that are traditionally 24" deep, I
minimize waste (IOW, getting two, correctly grain oriented, end
panels for the cabinet sides out of one 48" width sheet) by cutting
the end panels 23 15/16" wide, then cut the dadoes in the FF's to
receive the end panels 3/16" deep, instead of 1/4".

That way I end up with an assembled base cabinet that is precisely
24" deep.


Wouldn't that make the cabs precisely 24-1/2" deep?


How thick is the face frame? Assume it's 3/4:

23-15/16 panel
12/16 face frame
3/16 dado

23-15/16 + 12/16 - 3/16 = 23-24/16 or 24-1/4

If the face frame is 1/2, then it works out to 24 exactly.

John


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Check the thickness. See if it is a real 3/4" or 1/2".

So much is metric that is close. Trimmed down and that is it.

If you have a local ply mill then the buyers might buy from it.

Depends on where the forest they use is. If in South America then
the ply comes from there. Lower cost to ship.

If from a local forest and mill structure - it might be metric or Imperial.

And cutting a 96" board in half won't give you 48" x 48".

Martin

On 6/4/2015 7:47 AM, dpb wrote:
On 05/31/2015 8:16 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
They don't make 4x8' anymore. It is all metric and is close to that
size. Check the thickness of a 1/2" or 3/4" board...

...

Last I checked on their web sites, the nominal manufacturers' exterior
dimensions were still listed in inches...well, let's check again...

Ayup...

http://www.buildgp.com/plytanium-plywood-sheathing

--

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On 06/05/2015 8:22 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Check the thickness. See if it is a real 3/4" or 1/2".


Check the manufactuer's website spec's given earlier...they're in
English units, 48x96 at thicknesses 1/32" under the nominal historical
dimensions.

Nobody's claiming you can take a length and remove a kerf thickness and
have the initial total length and my only comment was that US
manufacturers are still using English nominal measurements for at least
construction ply; some furniture/cabinet-grade products are otherwise.

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On 6/4/2015 9:39 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon wrote in
:

Swingman wrote:


When building base cabinets that are traditionally 24" deep, I
minimize waste (IOW, getting two, correctly grain oriented, end
panels for the cabinet sides out of one 48" width sheet) by cutting
the end panels 23 15/16" wide, then cut the dadoes in the FF's to
receive the end panels 3/16" deep, instead of 1/4".

That way I end up with an assembled base cabinet that is precisely
24" deep.


Wouldn't that make the cabs precisely 24-1/2" deep?


How thick is the face frame? Assume it's 3/4:

23-15/16 panel
12/16 face frame
3/16 dado

23-15/16 + 12/16 - 3/16 = 23-24/16 or 24-1/4


Nope! 24-1/2" as I stated. 23-24/16 does not reduce to 24-1/4.

23-24/16 reduces to 24-8/16




If the face frame is 1/2, then it works out to 24 exactly.

John


I could be wrong here but I don't think any "normal" cabinet face frames
are 1/2" thick.

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