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#1
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This one:
http://www.amazon.com/Narex-NAR81341.../dp/B0049MXKZM I will be making through mortises in oak, or possibly some other hardwood. Some of the stock will be 1.5" thick. I was worried that squaring the corners of the routed mortises was going to be a debilitating chore, but I am encouraged by my first couple of tests with this chisel. At its "just-from-the-package" sharpness, it makes a nice clean corner. Any imprecision will thus be attributable to my lack of skill rather than the tool. I intend to practice up some. Next, it's not terribly difficult to plow through the oak. OK, I'm only gouging out a 1/4 x 1/4 corner in a 1/2" mortise, but it sure is easier with this purpose-built tool. My test runs have been on 3/4" scraps, so half the thickness I'll need, but it is very quick. My attempts with standard bevel-edge chisels were much more cumbersome. I think that the bevel on this chisel may be at a steeper angle, besides the corner configuration. Now I need to learn how to keep it sharp. People recommended diamond hones, but I see at least 5 "colors" (grits). Any tips as to which one(s) I need? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com |
#2
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Greg Guarino wrote:
This one: http://www.amazon.com/Narex-NAR81341.../dp/B0049MXKZM I will be making through mortises in oak, or possibly some other hardwood. Some of the stock will be 1.5" thick. I was worried that squaring the corners of the routed mortises was going to be a debilitating chore, but I am encouraged by my first couple of tests with this chisel. At its "just-from-the-package" sharpness, it makes a nice clean corner. Any imprecision will thus be attributable to my lack of skill rather than the tool. I intend to practice up some. Next, it's not terribly difficult to plow through the oak. OK, I'm only gouging out a 1/4 x 1/4 corner in a 1/2" mortise, but it sure is easier with this purpose-built tool. My test runs have been on 3/4" scraps, so half the thickness I'll need, but it is very quick. My attempts with standard bevel-edge chisels were much more cumbersome. I think that the bevel on this chisel may be at a steeper angle, besides the corner configuration. Now I need to learn how to keep it sharp. People recommended diamond hones, but I see at least 5 "colors" (grits). Any tips as to which one(s) I need? It rather depends on what needs doing, wot? I use silicon carbide but the same ideas apply... 180/220/280 if I need to take out nicks, 400 & 600 to finish, rarely up to 1000. Don't forget the backs. I would think silicon carbide on a block would work well for that, sharpen both edges evenly & simultaneously. |
#3
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On Saturday, May 16, 2015 at 10:06:16 AM UTC-7, dadiOH wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote: [about sharpening a corner chisel] Now I need to learn how to keep it sharp. People recommended diamond hones... .. I use silicon carbide but the same ideas apply... 180/220/280 if I need to take out nicks, 400 & 600 to finish, rarely up to 1000. Don't forget the backs. I would think silicon carbide on a block would work well for that, sharpen both edges evenly & simultaneously. Needs a special block or the geometry is wrong. If the corner chisel is 90 degrees and the edges are straight across, then the bevels on the inside are NOT at 90 degrees to each other. For a 20 degree bevel at the edge, the corner chisel block would have to be 96.77 degrees For other bevel, the formula is cos(block_bevel) = sin(chisel_bevel) **2) and you can't use the 'acos' function, because the branch is wrong... |
#4
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whit3rd wrote:
On Saturday, May 16, 2015 at 10:06:16 AM UTC-7, dadiOH wrote: Greg Guarino wrote: [about sharpening a corner chisel] Now I need to learn how to keep it sharp. People recommended diamond hones... .. I use silicon carbide but the same ideas apply... 180/220/280 if I need to take out nicks, 400 & 600 to finish, rarely up to 1000. Don't forget the backs. I would think silicon carbide on a block would work well for that, sharpen both edges evenly & simultaneously. Needs a special block or the geometry is wrong. If the corner chisel is 90 degrees and the edges are straight across, then the bevels on the inside are NOT at 90 degrees to each other. For a 20 degree bevel at the edge, the corner chisel block would have to be 96.77 degrees If the back faces make a 90-degree angle, then so will the ends of the inside bevels. I'm not sure how the "corner" can cut a perfect corner--I suspect that,without some deviation from what I have described,that it can't cut a perfect corner. In this case, I think if the corners of the tenons could were shaved just the slightest amount, that theywould have a perfect fit in a mortise cut with this tool. Or perhaps, one could finish with a regular chisel to create the "perfect corner" if desired. All of this just a guess--Bill. For other bevel, the formula is cos(block_bevel) = sin(chisel_bevel) **2) and you can't use the 'acos' function, because the branch is wrong... |
#5
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On 5/17/2015 12:47 AM, Bill wrote:
If the back faces make a 90-degree angle, then so will the ends of the inside bevels. I'm not sure how the "corner" can cut a perfect corner--I suspect that,without some deviation from what I have described,that it can't cut a perfect corner. At my level of expertise it's unwise to be too certain about things, but I don't understand why you think that the cut won't match the shape of the chisel. Do you perhaps mean that the outside corner of the chisel must actually have some tiny radius to it? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com |
#6
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Greg Guarino wrote:
On 5/17/2015 12:47 AM, Bill wrote: If the back faces make a 90-degree angle, then so will the ends of the inside bevels. I'm not sure how the "corner" can cut a perfect corner--I suspect that,without some deviation from what I have described,that it can't cut a perfect corner. At my level of expertise it's unwise to be too certain about things, but I don't understand why you think that the cut won't match the shape of the chisel. Do you perhaps mean that the outside corner of the chisel must actually have some tiny radius to it? Either that, or there is a slice in the corner. Think about what the corner must look like if it is at the intersection of 2 bevels. It seems like to cut a real corner that the bevels would need to be separated. --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com |
#7
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"dadiOH" wrote in :
Greg Guarino wrote: Now I need to learn how to keep it sharp. People recommended diamond hones, but I see at least 5 "colors" (grits). Any tips as to which one(s) I need? It rather depends on what needs doing, wot? I use silicon carbide but the same ideas apply... Exactly - the corner chisel is just like any other chisel, so you'd use the same grits as you would for the same task on a regular chisel. Something pretty fine if you just need a light honeing, otherwise work up thru the grits. Diamond hones are good because you can get them in small sizes (with safe edges) that easily fit the bevel. As dadiOH says, you can glue silicon carbide sandpaper to popsicle sticks for the same result. 180/220/280 if I need to take out nicks, 400 & 600 to finish, rarely up to 1000. Don't forget the backs. I think this is one of those tools where you don't want to touch the backs. Granted, the shape isn't as critical as something like a Forstner bit, but I think I'd just work the bevel, unless there was an obvious problem with the backs. I would think silicon carbide on a block would work well for that, sharpen both edges evenly & simultaneously. It would be a weird shaped block. I'd do both sides seperately. John |
#8
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On 5/16/2015 11:45 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Now I need to learn how to keep it sharp. People recommended diamond hones, but I see at least 5 "colors" (grits). Any tips as to which one(s) I need? I use the edge of an Arkansas stone to keep them honed. Doing so religiously after every use, ten years have gone by with no real need to expend any extra "sharpening" effort. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#9
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On 5/16/2015 12:45 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Now I need to learn how to keep it sharp. People recommended diamond hones, but I see at least 5 "colors" (grits). Any tips as to which one(s) I need? Simple really. Just go down to the Town Hall and hone it on the corner stone. Glad I could help. |
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