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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and
panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. TIA. Dick Snyder |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/20/2015 9:59 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. TIA. Dick Snyder I have a dedicated mortising machine. I would not recommend mortising with a drill press as the handle is too short. But if you have an old drill press with a long arm, then by all means do it. If you have a short 3 handle drill press don't do it. My 2 cents. -- Jeff |
#3
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/20/2015 8:59 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:
I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. TIA. Dick Snyder If these are cabinet doors you would be better off making stub tenons to fit in slots. Far Simpler and fine for that weight door. You would probably be better off with a bench top mortiser, they can be had for not much more than the attachments for a DP and far simpler to set up. |
#4
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On Mon, 20 Apr 2015 22:12:28 -0400
woodchucker wrote: I have a dedicated mortising machine. I would not recommend mortising with a drill press as the handle is too short. But if you have an old drill press with a long arm, then by all means do it. If you have a short 3 handle drill press don't do it. is this because you can't do the entire mortise in one fluid move or some other reason i drill deep holes and find it real annoying to have to grab the next handle back now this has me wondering if i could remove a handle and make one handle longer not sure if there are other limitations with the drill press i.e. a longer handle might not turn free without hitting something |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
"Dick Snyder" wrote: I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. --------------------------------------------------------------- My personal prejudices: 1) Drill Press & Attachment May a constipated camel decorate your front lawn. IMHO, strictly a loser. 2) Plunge router & Jig. My weapon of choice. You can knock out 40-50 mortises in a short amount of time. I leave the ends of the mortise round and knock off the corners of the tenon with a flat ******* file. 3) Dedicated bench top mortising machine. You have enough work to justify the expense of a dedicated tool. HTH Lew |
#6
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On Monday, April 20, 2015 at 8:59:47 PM UTC-5, southborough_man wrote:
I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. TIA. Dick Snyder In addition to the information in the other replies, there is this. IF you have a mortising attachment for your drill press, and it is not EXACTLY fitted to the spindle, it can come lose and start spinning. That gets really interesting, extremely fast. BTW, don't ask me how I know. ;-) Ergo, a dedicated mortiser is the only way to go. Or you could cut them by hand, which is the way I cut most of mine. Deb |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Dick Snyder wrote:
I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). Since you are going to paint the doors, the plugs should work very well for you. The amount of sanding won't be as much as it seems you are anticipating. If the fit is not perfect, you can use a small amount of filler or fine sawdust and sand it down flush. The pocket screws make a very strong joint and they are a fast way to build. I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. I have a mortising set for my drill press, and I have mixed emotions about it. It does work but I always found there was a lot of hand clean up of the mortise afterwards. That was just my experience. -- -Mike- |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Dick Snyder wrote:
I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. TIA. Dick Snyder Comments 1. If you kreg it, forget plugs, use filler. 2. Routers can make mortices 3. Half laps are strong 4. Dowels work too. Too much precision? Glue into rails, glue rails into sloppy big holes in stiles using filled epoxy. -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/20/2015 11:22 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 20 Apr 2015 22:12:28 -0400 woodchucker wrote: I have a dedicated mortising machine. I would not recommend mortising with a drill press as the handle is too short. But if you have an old drill press with a long arm, then by all means do it. If you have a short 3 handle drill press don't do it. is this because you can't do the entire mortise in one fluid move or some other reason i drill deep holes and find it real annoying to have to grab the next handle back now this has me wondering if i could remove a handle and make one handle longer not sure if there are other limitations with the drill press i.e. a longer handle might not turn free without hitting something With a drill press there is typically some disassemble involved and it is an adaptation. Then you can't use the DP until you remove the mortising attachment. I think this was a popular option decades ago when bench top mortisers were not common for home woodworkers. |
#10
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/21/2015 12:29 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Dick Snyder" wrote: I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. --------------------------------------------------------------- My personal prejudices: 1) Drill Press & Attachment May a constipated camel decorate your front lawn. IMHO, strictly a loser. 2) Plunge router & Jig. My weapon of choice. You can knock out 40-50 mortises in a short amount of time. I leave the ends of the mortise round and knock off the corners of the tenon with a flat ******* file. 3) Dedicated bench top mortising machine. You have enough work to justify the expense of a dedicated tool. HTH Lew The router and jig is something I had not considered yet. Could you give me some idea what your jig is like or send me a picture? |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/21/2015 6:43 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Dick Snyder wrote: I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). Since you are going to paint the doors, the plugs should work very well for you. The amount of sanding won't be as much as it seems you are anticipating. If the fit is not perfect, you can use a small amount of filler or fine sawdust and sand it down flush. The pocket screws make a very strong joint and they are a fast way to build. I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. I have a mortising set for my drill press, and I have mixed emotions about it. It does work but I always found there was a lot of hand clean up of the mortise afterwards. That was just my experience. I guess I can make a couple of holes and put in the plugs to see how much sanding is required. I will give that a shot in addition to checking out Lew's suggestion for a plunge router and jig |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Dick Snyder wrote in
: I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Well, just to add to what everyone else has said, I think it depends on what else you expect to do in woodworking. If you intend it to be a continuing hobby, this project probably justifies buying a dedicated mortise machine, which you will likely use fairly often. Apropos of the drill press attachment, I'd be sceptical. The weak point of mortising machines is the holddown (which stops the workpiece lifting when you retract the chisel), from what I've seen these are rudimentary or non-existant on drill press attachments. Also, as woodchucker mentioned, it takes a fair bit of force to push the chisel into the wood, and the handle on a drillpress doesn't give you much leverage for that. So my suggestion here would be, if you'll do more mortises in future, buy a benchtop mortising machine. If not, build a dedicated jig and use the router. John |
#13
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9
"Dick Snyder" wrote: The router and jig is something I had not considered yet. Could you give me some idea what your jig is like or send me a picture? ------------------------------------------------------ http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9 Lew |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On Monday, April 20, 2015 at 9:59:47 PM UTC-4, southborough_man wrote:
I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. TIA. Dick Snyder If you have a router table you should get a rail and stile router bit set. |
#15
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/21/2015 11:40 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9 "Dick Snyder" wrote: The router and jig is something I had not considered yet. Could you give me some idea what your jig is like or send me a picture? ------------------------------------------------------ http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9 Lew Excellent. Thanks Lew. |
#16
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/21/2015 11:39 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Dick Snyder wrote in : I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Well, just to add to what everyone else has said, I think it depends on what else you expect to do in woodworking. If you intend it to be a continuing hobby, this project probably justifies buying a dedicated mortise machine, which you will likely use fairly often. Apropos of the drill press attachment, I'd be sceptical. The weak point of mortising machines is the holddown (which stops the workpiece lifting when you retract the chisel), from what I've seen these are rudimentary or non-existant on drill press attachments. Also, as woodchucker mentioned, it takes a fair bit of force to push the chisel into the wood, and the handle on a drillpress doesn't give you much leverage for that. So my suggestion here would be, if you'll do more mortises in future, buy a benchtop mortising machine. If not, build a dedicated jig and use the router. John Lew posted a nice reference to a jig that would work with a plunge router. If I don't go with Kreg, I will make that jig which seems pretty straightforward. Thanks. |
#17
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
John McCoy writes:
Dick Snyder wrote in : I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Well, just to add to what everyone else has said, I think it depends on what else you expect to do in woodworking. If you intend it to be a continuing hobby, this project probably justifies buying a dedicated mortise machine, which you will likely use fairly often. Apropos of the drill press attachment, I'd be sceptical. The weak point of mortising machines is the holddown (which stops the workpiece lifting when you retract the chisel), from what I've seen these are rudimentary or non-existant on drill press attachments. Also, as woodchucker mentioned, it takes a fair bit of force to push the chisel into the wood, and the handle on a drillpress doesn't give you much leverage for that. So my suggestion here would be, if you'll do more mortises in future, buy a benchtop mortising machine. If not, build a dedicated jig and use the router. I started out with a DP attachment for a Delta 17-900. It worked, but I wouldn't use it for production. Lubricating the bit and honing the chisel was required for best operation. It's not difficult to add a cheater to the DP handle if necessary for additional leverage. I then picked up a General International benchtop unit. It worked better, albeit still a bit underpowered; better holddown than the DP attachment. I then picked up a horizontal mortiser from Laguna. The best of the bunch, especially for production. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/21/2015 7:20 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Dick Snyder wrote: I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. TIA. Dick Snyder Comments 1. If you kreg it, forget plugs, use filler. 2. Routers can make mortices 3. Half laps are strong 4. Dowels work too. Too much precision? Glue into rails, glue rails into sloppy big holes in stiles using filled epoxy. Filler is always a bad choice, it shrinks, it's a pain to sand. Either too hard or too soft. -- Jeff |
#19
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/21/2015 12:22 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 20 Apr 2015 22:12:28 -0400 woodchucker wrote: I have a dedicated mortising machine. I would not recommend mortising with a drill press as the handle is too short. But if you have an old drill press with a long arm, then by all means do it. If you have a short 3 handle drill press don't do it. is this because you can't do the entire mortise in one fluid move or some other reason i drill deep holes and find it real annoying to have to grab the next handle back now this has me wondering if i could remove a handle and make one handle longer not sure if there are other limitations with the drill press i.e. a longer handle might not turn free without hitting something No it's not because you have to grab a different arm, it's called leverage. A mortiser or really old drill press, use long arms. So they have the leverage that a mortiser needs. Plain and simple. -- Jeff |
#20
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
"woodchucker" wrote: Filler is always a bad choice, it shrinks, it's a pain to sand. Either too hard or too soft. ----------------------------------------------- Epoxy fairing putty (epoxy thickened with micro-balloons) does NOT shrink and is of uniform hardness. Can't comment on other fillers. Lew |
#21
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On Tue, 21 Apr 2015 17:58:48 -0400
woodchucker wrote: No it's not because you have to grab a different arm, it's called leverage. A mortiser or really old drill press, use long arms. So they have the leverage that a mortiser needs. Plain and simple. makes sense must require additional force due to the chisel and I'd think you'd want that chisel to be sharp at all times |
#22
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/21/2015 11:30 AM, Dick Snyder wrote:
"Dick Snyder" wrote: The router and jig is something I had not considered yet. Could you give me some idea what your jig is like or send me a picture? ------------------------------------------------------ http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9 Lew Excellent. Thanks Lew. Here's one I used for making chairs years back, well before I got a multi-router. I made it so I could use simple shims for different size stock. Simple, no moving parts, used in a vice: https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...g?noredirect=1 -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#23
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On Tue, 21 Apr 2015 08:08:46 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote: On 4/20/2015 11:22 PM, Electric Comet wrote: On Mon, 20 Apr 2015 22:12:28 -0400 woodchucker wrote: I have a dedicated mortising machine. I would not recommend mortising with a drill press as the handle is too short. But if you have an old drill press with a long arm, then by all means do it. If you have a short 3 handle drill press don't do it. is this because you can't do the entire mortise in one fluid move or some other reason i drill deep holes and find it real annoying to have to grab the next handle back now this has me wondering if i could remove a handle and make one handle longer not sure if there are other limitations with the drill press i.e. a longer handle might not turn free without hitting something With a drill press there is typically some disassemble involved and it is an adaptation. Then you can't use the DP until you remove the mortising attachment. I think this was a popular option decades ago when bench top mortisers were not common for home woodworkers. I presume these quaint tools came before the Domino, eh Leon? |
#24
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On Tue, 21 Apr 2015 10:01:53 -0400, Dick Snyder
wrote: On 4/21/2015 12:29 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote: "Dick Snyder" wrote: I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. --------------------------------------------------------------- My personal prejudices: 1) Drill Press & Attachment May a constipated camel decorate your front lawn. IMHO, strictly a loser. 2) Plunge router & Jig. My weapon of choice. You can knock out 40-50 mortises in a short amount of time. I leave the ends of the mortise round and knock off the corners of the tenon with a flat ******* file. 3) Dedicated bench top mortising machine. You have enough work to justify the expense of a dedicated tool. HTH Lew The router and jig is something I had not considered yet. Could you give me some idea what your jig is like or send me a picture? I have a Mortise Pal, though I don't think they're available anymore. http://www.rockler.com/how-to/mortis...joint-cutting/ |
#25
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Lew Hodgett wrote: http://tinyurl.com/cvnku9 "Dick Snyder" wrote: Excellent. Thanks Lew. -------------------------------------------------- SFWIW Took a piece of 8 by 8 graph paper and attached it to 1/4" hardboard with rubber cement. The 8x8 grid made set ups a snap. Lew |
#26
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
The drill takes out most of the wood (or should) and you must
let it transport it to the surface or you jamb up the Mortise chisels and run the risk of splitting the chisel. So the process is in / out or down and up a bit and down for more. Not to Drive like you are pressing a nail into the wood. Martin On 4/21/2015 5:41 PM, Electric Comet wrote: On Tue, 21 Apr 2015 17:58:48 -0400 woodchucker wrote: No it's not because you have to grab a different arm, it's called leverage. A mortiser or really old drill press, use long arms. So they have the leverage that a mortiser needs. Plain and simple. makes sense must require additional force due to the chisel and I'd think you'd want that chisel to be sharp at all times |
#27
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On Tue, 21 Apr 2015 23:07:29 -0500
Martin Eastburn wrote: The drill takes out most of the wood (or should) and you must let it transport it to the surface or you jamb up the Mortise chisels and run the risk of splitting the chisel. So the process is in / out or down and up a bit and down for more. Not to Drive like you are pressing a nail into the wood. that makes sense too so you're saying a lot of force is not needed but that depends on the wood but it all sounds primitive where're the laser mortisers they have laser etchers/engravers seems like a laser mortiser would just need a few more passes or maybe super high pressure water like they use to cut paper maybe a little messy for the typical artisan |
#28
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
krw wrote:
On Tue, 21 Apr 2015 08:08:46 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote: On 4/20/2015 11:22 PM, Electric Comet wrote: On Mon, 20 Apr 2015 22:12:28 -0400 woodchucker wrote: I have a dedicated mortising machine. I would not recommend mortising with a drill press as the handle is too short. But if you have an old drill press with a long arm, then by all means do it. If you have a short 3 handle drill press don't do it. is this because you can't do the entire mortise in one fluid move or some other reason i drill deep holes and find it real annoying to have to grab the next handle back now this has me wondering if i could remove a handle and make one handle longer not sure if there are other limitations with the drill press i.e. a longer handle might not turn free without hitting something With a drill press there is typically some disassemble involved and it is an adaptation. Then you can't use the DP until you remove the mortising attachment. I think this was a popular option decades ago when bench top mortisers were not common for home woodworkers. I presume these quaint tools came before the Domino, eh Leon? Sorta :-). I recall my shop class room having two DP's, one had a mortiser attachment with foot pedal assist. All of the mortiser pieces were a different color from the rest of the DP. That was 1969. Somewhere in the 90's I recall $200 bench top mortisers hit my radar and I bought a Delta. That worked but I have not used it since getting the Domino when they were introduced, some time around 2007-8 I know of no tool that cuts mortises as quickly and easily as the Domino. |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Martin Eastburn wrote in news8FZw.338244
: The drill takes out most of the wood (or should) and you must let it transport it to the surface or you jamb up the Mortise chisels and run the risk of splitting the chisel. So the process is in / out or down and up a bit and down for more. Not to Drive like you are pressing a nail into the wood. That's not quite right. The first pass usually has to be done in several up & down strokes. The remaining passes are a single down stoke (assuming you have the chisel oriented so the opening faces the previously cut part of the mortise, which is how you should have it oriented). John |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Dad had a Delta unit on his double belted Delta. Sorry it went the way
of thief out of my brothers shop. Like I said in/out or down and up a bit down for more. Can't push it all of the way. You said the same thing but added a final fine cut or clean out pass. Big deal - that wasn't the process discussed. Martin On 4/22/2015 12:19 PM, John McCoy wrote: Martin Eastburn wrote in news8FZw.338244 : The drill takes out most of the wood (or should) and you must let it transport it to the surface or you jamb up the Mortise chisels and run the risk of splitting the chisel. So the process is in / out or down and up a bit and down for more. Not to Drive like you are pressing a nail into the wood. That's not quite right. The first pass usually has to be done in several up & down strokes. The remaining passes are a single down stoke (assuming you have the chisel oriented so the opening faces the previously cut part of the mortise, which is how you should have it oriented). John |
#31
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
dadiOH wrote:
Dick Snyder wrote: I recently did a posting about Poplar. I will be making 8 frame and panel doors using poplar for stiles and rails and some 1/4" panels. Each door will have 3 rails: 4" top and middle and 6" at the bottom. The stiles will be 3". Total door width 14" I made a prototype which was good for evaluation but I need to make doors that are more sturdy. In particular I want to make 1" tenons on each end of the three rails and a matching mortise in the stiles. 8 doors. 6 mortise and tenon joints per door. 48 joints. I do not have a dedicated mortising machine. I might use a Kreg jig but the holes will be visible each time the door is opened. I might be able to use the plugs with a lot of sanding so the joining technique isn't too ugly (the doors will be painted). I could of course use my drill press and a chisel which I have done before but not on 48 mortise and tenon joints. I thought I would ask if anyone has used a mortising attachment for a drill press before I choose one of the two options mentioned above. Maybe someone has a different idea I can use for a sturdy joint. Your advice is appreciated as always. TIA. Dick Snyder Comments 1. If you kreg it, forget plugs, use filler. 2. Routers can make mortices 3. Half laps are strong 4. Dowels work too. Too much precision? Glue into rails, glue rails into sloppy big holes in stiles using filled epoxy. I make my own plugs. Get a dowel that fits and cut it into 6" lengths, put some glue on the DOWEL and tap it into the hole. Later saw it off with a flush-cut saw and use the other end. Cut the leftover in half with a scroll saw and use the two halves. If you put the glue in the hole it will gum up the screw and make it difficult to remove if you ever need to do so. (As I just had to do to replace a hand rail.) -- G W Ross Imagination is more important than knowledge - Einstein |
#32
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Martin Eastburn wrote in
: Dad had a Delta unit on his double belted Delta. Sorry it went the way of thief out of my brothers shop. Like I said in/out or down and up a bit down for more. Can't push it all of the way. You said the same thing but added a final fine cut or clean out pass. Big deal - that wasn't the process discussed. No, that's not what I said. I said on a proper mortising machine, all the cuts except for the very first are done in a single pass. It's only the first hole (which will be square) where you have to be concerned about allowing the shavings to clear. In every succeeding cut, the shavings fall into the mortise. Now, possibly it's different on an underpowered and under-leveraged drill press attachement. But with a mortising machine, it is "push it all of the way". John |
#33
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Going to have to explain "in every succeeding cut, the shavings fall
into the mortise." Is this the second hole ? Is this a first ? If the first it is up and down clearing. If you are cutting man made material - MDF or such - it might not matter. When cutting oak and hard maple - one better go slow. I have seen chisels split by wood jamming into the cavity and using the drill to compact and stretch. The drill press had power. Real power. Three pulley, two belts. The motor was a 3/4 hp and could really run the spindle. It was for Metal and Wood use. It had a special spindle for This and another for boring while a normal drill spindle with a 1/2" chuck that would hold sub 1/16 centered. It was heavy duty Delta - built in the early 50's. Not like the pot metal ones you see today. Martin On 4/23/2015 10:57 AM, John McCoy wrote: Martin Eastburn wrote in : Dad had a Delta unit on his double belted Delta. Sorry it went the way of thief out of my brothers shop. Like I said in/out or down and up a bit down for more. Can't push it all of the way. You said the same thing but added a final fine cut or clean out pass. Big deal - that wasn't the process discussed. No, that's not what I said. I said on a proper mortising machine, all the cuts except for the very first are done in a single pass. It's only the first hole (which will be square) where you have to be concerned about allowing the shavings to clear. In every succeeding cut, the shavings fall into the mortise. Now, possibly it's different on an underpowered and under-leveraged drill press attachement. But with a mortising machine, it is "push it all of the way". John |
#34
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
Martin Eastburn wrote in news:hkd_w.282787
: Going to have to explain "in every succeeding cut, the shavings fall into the mortise." It should be clear, but anyway: when you make a mortise, you make a series of slightly overlapping cuts - if you're using a 3/8" chisel for a 2" mortise, you'll probably make 6 cuts. The first cut, the shavings have nowhere to go but up the chisel. That one you (usually) have to make in several up and down strokes, to let the shavings clear. The next cut, slightly overlapping the first, the shavings will fall into the hole made by the first cut. And so on down the line, each succeeding cut the shavings fall into the hole from the prior cuts. The only way that doesn't happen is if the open side of the chisel is not facing the prior cuts. In that case, the shavings again have nowhere to go but up. But if you're doing it that way, you're doing it wrong. I mostly work with maple & cherry, incidently...no problem cutting the mortises in single pulls. John |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/23/2015 5:17 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
The drill press had power. Real power. Three pulley, two belts. The motor was a 3/4 hp and could really run the spindle. It was for Metal and Wood use. It had a special spindle for This and another for boring while a normal drill spindle with a 1/2" chuck that would hold sub 1/16 centered. It was heavy duty Delta - built in the early 50's. Not like the pot metal ones you see today. I have an old King Seely Drill press built I guess in the 40's. I used the mortising attachment that I got with it for many years, and it worked perfect, no problem with the power, no problem with the arms not giving enough leverage, and the hold down was better than the one on my Delta dedicated mortiser. The only real draw back, which was mentioned by someone earlier, was it was a pain to put on and off, and when installed, you had no drill press. I was going to buy a cheap bench drill press to leave it on, but never got aroundtoit. The dedicated mortiser is OK, but it's drawback is it is always there, even though I don't use it all that often. Less often since I've been using pocket holes for all face frames. For cabinet doors, I'd prefer a frame and panel cutter set and stub tenons rather than using mortise and tenon. I would recommend skipping the drill press attachment, skip the dedicated mortiser, and buy a good set or two of frame and panel Knives for my shaper or even a router if you don't have a shaper. For giant mortises, say in a front door for your house, use a router. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#36
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/22/2015 11:02 PM, G. Ross wrote:
1. If you kreg it, forget plugs, use filler. I make my own plugs. Get a dowel that fits and cut it into 6" lengths, put some glue on the DOWEL and tap it into the hole. Later saw it off with a flush-cut saw and use the other end. Cut the leftover in half with a scroll saw and use the two halves. If you put the glue in the hole it will gum up the screw and make it difficult to remove if you ever need to do so. (As I just had to do to replace a hand rail.) I don't often use plugs, but I make my own with a simple jig. Make a pocket hole in a piece of scrap, insert a dowel a bit longer than the hole, then I use my disk sander to sand off the excess. Also, drill a hole in the other end of the jig to pop out the dowel filler. Works like a charm if you need fillers. Typically, I don't use pocket holes where they show. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#37
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/25/2015 9:13 AM, Jack wrote:
Good to see you back... -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#38
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
On 4/25/2015 3:50 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 4/25/2015 9:13 AM, Jack wrote: Good to see you back... Thanks Swing. Never really left, just don't participate much. -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#39
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
" If you have a short 3 handle drill press don't do it."
When I built my woodworking drill press table for my Rigid floor-mounted press, I found the Long Arms interfered with the table! As a result, I discovered how simple it was to re-fit the press with shorter arms. Thus, I would not think a short-arm drill press was necessarily an obstacle to employing a mortising attachment - maybe all you need do is retro-fit a longer arm or two. |
#40
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Mortising attachment for a drill press
A now this has me wondering if i could remove a handle and make one
handle longer B not sure if there are other limitations with the drill press i.e. a longer handle might not turn free without hitting something A - "there you go" B - "Simple enough to check, right?" I knew a fellow who connected a (spring-loaded) foot-pedal affair to control the quill movement. But, how much work are you willing to do to save some time and effort with the mortices for this project?. For the $$ and intended use, it might be worth trying out the HFT dedicated mortising attachment - if you can complete the work in thirty days . . . If you already have the Mortising Attachment - do use it, do make do. |
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