Refer to the drawings below

https://plus.google.com/photos/10532...08952383653925

https://plus.google.com/photos/10532...08952383653925

I'm wondering if the parts of the legs that protrude through the
tabletop will eventually split the miter joints in the top. If yes, what
can I do about it? Make the hole a little too big (ugh)? Eliminate that
feature?

Greg Guarino wrote in
:

I'm wondering if the parts of the legs that protrude through the
tabletop will eventually split the miter joints in the top. If yes,
what can I do about it? Make the hole a little too big (ugh)?
Eliminate that feature?

I'm inclined to doubt it, depending on how you're holding
the miters together. Wood movement across the grain tends
to be on the order of 1/8" per foot of width, so assuming
your decorative head is ~ 1" wide you'd get about 1/96"
of change.

You could probably reduce that by using quartersawn stock
for the legs, which might be a good idea anyway (to avoid
any risk of them warping).

You could strengthen the miter joint to resist any slight
expansion of the leg by putting splines or bisquicks or
something like that in it. You could even consider a
mitered half-lap joint if you're less concerned about what
the side view looks like.

John

On 3/25/2015 6:07 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Greg Guarino wrote in
:

I'm wondering if the parts of the legs that protrude through the
tabletop will eventually split the miter joints in the top. If yes,
what can I do about it? Make the hole a little too big (ugh)?
Eliminate that feature?

I'm inclined to doubt it, depending on how you're holding
the miters together. Wood movement across the grain tends
to be on the order of 1/8" per foot of width, so assuming
your decorative head is ~ 1" wide you'd get about 1/96"
of change.

You could probably reduce that by using quartersawn stock
for the legs, which might be a good idea anyway (to avoid
any risk of them warping).

You could strengthen the miter joint to resist any slight
expansion of the leg by putting splines or bisquicks or
something like that in it. You could even consider a
mitered half-lap joint if you're less concerned about what
the side view looks like.

John

Thanks. That sounds workable, especially since getting a closer fit than
1/192" all around that leg would be well beyond my skills. Hell, I
figure to be making those notches in the "frame" pieces with a hand saw.
The message I'm getting is "don't make it a fit that you have to pound
the tenons into". And yes, biscuits (small ones) was what I had in mind.

On 3/25/2015 3:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Refer to the drawings below

https://plus.google.com/photos/10532...08952383653925


https://plus.google.com/photos/10532...08952383653925


I'm wondering if the parts of the legs that protrude through the
tabletop will eventually split the miter joints in the top. If yes, what
can I do about it? Make the hole a little too big (ugh)? Eliminate that
feature?

Go for it ... Greene & Greene did similar things in both face and end
grain with no ill effects.

Like John says, quartersawn stock would give you less across face grain
movement and would be a nice touch, although likely not necessary.

I REALLY like the concept ... looks like you are developing a finely
tuned, inherent designer gene.

Keep up it, Bubba ... it's a brilliant touch!

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 3/26/2015 9:41 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/25/2015 3:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Refer to the drawings below

https://plus.google.com/photos/10532...08952383653925



https://plus.google.com/photos/10532...08952383653925



I'm wondering if the parts of the legs that protrude through the
tabletop will eventually split the miter joints in the top. If yes, what
can I do about it? Make the hole a little too big (ugh)? Eliminate that
feature?

Go for it ... Greene & Greene did similar things in both face and end
grain with no ill effects.

Like John says, quartersawn stock would give you less across face grain
movement and would be a nice touch, although likely not necessary.

I REALLY like the concept ... looks like you are developing a finely
tuned, inherent designer gene.

Keep up it, Bubba ... it's a brilliant touch!

Thanks for the compliment; I'm glad you like it. I have of course
borrowed some of the features from things I see in magazines. Now we'll
see if I can summon the gumption to try to build the tables (2). My
Sketchup skills have advanced more quickly than my ability to actually
build the details that I can draw. But I thought that on the last
project too, and the one before. So maybe I'll be able to suss out how
to build these as well.

Oh, and we can add one more technique to the list of "firsts": it looks
like there will not be sufficient room for even #0 biscuits to join the
mitered pieces that make up the top. So maybe splines?

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...08952383653925

I even considered having the splines protrude a little (use the scroll
arrows), but that looks like something that would get chipped over time.

On 3/25/2015 3:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
Refer to the drawings below

https://plus.google.com/photos/10532...08952383653925


https://plus.google.com/photos/10532...08952383653925


I'm wondering if the parts of the legs that protrude through the
tabletop will eventually split the miter joints in the top. If yes, what
can I do about it? Make the hole a little too big (ugh)? Eliminate that
feature?


Just a hint here, or something else to consider. The through tenon on
the leg through the top really brings no appreciable strength to the
piece. Just attach the top like any other top and then as earlier
mentioned glue a dummy/flux piece for the appearance of a through tenon.

I have done this several times to make foot board and head board posts
appear to go through a flat block.

Here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4191567592/


And mounted, the posts were actually hollow and the stems on the bottoms
of the caps fit down into the post.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...n/photostream/

John McCoy wrote:

You could probably reduce that by using quartersawn stock
for the legs, which might be a good idea anyway (to avoid
any risk of them warping).

What am I missing? If the leg is quarter sawn, that means two of the fours
sides will be quarter sawn but the other two will be flat sawn, no?


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 3/26/2015 12:52 PM, dadiOH wrote:
John McCoy wrote:

You could probably reduce that by using quartersawn stock
for the legs, which might be a good idea anyway (to avoid
any risk of them warping).

What am I missing? If the leg is quarter sawn, that means two of the fours
sides will be quarter sawn but the other two will be flat sawn, no?



Geeeez how about that! LOL

Leon wrote:
On 3/26/2015 12:52 PM, dadiOH wrote:
John McCoy wrote:

You could probably reduce that by using quartersawn stock
for the legs, which might be a good idea anyway (to avoid
any risk of them warping).

What am I missing? If the leg is quarter sawn, that means two of
the fours sides will be quarter sawn but the other two will be flat
sawn, no?

Geeeez how about that! LOL

So he should make the legs out of end grain, right?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

dadiOH wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 3/26/2015 12:52 PM, dadiOH wrote:
John McCoy wrote:

You could probably reduce that by using quartersawn stock
for the legs, which might be a good idea anyway (to avoid
any risk of them warping).

What am I missing? If the leg is quarter sawn, that means two of
the fours sides will be quarter sawn but the other two will be flat
sawn, no?

Geeeez how about that! LOL

So he should make the legs out of end grain, right?

Wait, that's no good. One needs quarter sawn but really, REALLY thick so
the flat sawn faces can be vertical

dadiOH

On 03/26/2015 1:31 PM, Leon wrote:
On 3/26/2015 12:52 PM, dadiOH wrote:
John McCoy wrote:

You could probably reduce that by using quartersawn stock
for the legs, which might be a good idea anyway (to avoid
any risk of them warping).

What am I missing? If the leg is quarter sawn, that means two of the
fours
sides will be quarter sawn but the other two will be flat sawn, no?



Geeeez how about that! LOL

Kidding aside, typically one wants the grain across the top of the leg
blank to run at 45-deg angle to the faces (presuming rectangular section
of blank). Then the grain is uniform on each side and particularly gets
rid of the "wild" grain differences when a leg is turned.

--