Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
A while back - 2-4 years? - someone posted about a commercial gizmo (made
from aluminum) that was used to compensate for blade thickness when cutting half laps, grooves, etc. on a saw. Basically, one set it to the thickness of the wood for which one was cutting a groove, made one cut, flipped the device and made the next cut, thus outlining the area. "Flipped" because that end had a way to adjust for blade thickness. Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda pricey, about $90 IIRC. Thanks -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 03/09/2015 10:36 AM, dadiOH wrote:
A while back - 2-4 years? - someone posted about a commercial gizmo (made from aluminum) that was used to compensate for blade thickness when cutting half laps, grooves, etc. on a saw. Basically, one set it to the thickness of the wood for which one was cutting a groove, made one cut, flipped the device and made the next cut, thus outlining the area. "Flipped" because that end had a way to adjust for blade thickness. Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda pricey, about $90 IIRC. Thanks http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...kerfmaker.html |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 3/9/2015 12:36 PM, dadiOH wrote:
A while back - 2-4 years? - someone posted about a commercial gizmo (made from aluminum) that was used to compensate for blade thickness when cutting half laps, grooves, etc. on a saw. Basically, one set it to the thickness of the wood for which one was cutting a groove, made one cut, flipped the device and made the next cut, thus outlining the area. "Flipped" because that end had a way to adjust for blade thickness. Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda pricey, about $90 IIRC. Had to walk out to the shop to check the name and Doug beat me to it. My unifence fence doesn't seem to allow the kind of accuracy I was hoping to get with the tool because of the slight backlash when locking the fence. Leon uses his more that I have, with apparently good results. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
"dadiOH" wrote in message ... Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda pricey, about $90 IIRC. Lawsy, so quick! Thanks, guys. -- dadiOH |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 2:03:40 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message ... Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda pricey, about $90 IIRC. Lawsy, so quick! Thanks, guys. -- dadiOH OK, guys, 'splain me sumthin... Will this device help me with my kitchen door project? The 1/4" grooves for the panels are cut. The next phase is to cut the stub tenons on the rails. The joints are offset such there will be a ~1/8" reveal on the back of the door and 3/8" on the front. The tenons will be 1/2" in length. (Maybe I should have cut the tenons first, and then matched the groove to them, but it's too late for that now.) Will this device help me set up dado so that I will get a perfect tenon? Since I have to do the tenons with 2 separate set-ups due to the offset, frankly, I'm a tad nervous. If I get the first side wrong, I'm screwed. A device (or a suggestion) for getting perfect offset tenons to fit pre-existing grooves would really help get me back on track. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On Mon, 9 Mar 2015 13:36:42 -0400
"dadiOH" wrote: Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda was a thread here on a homemade one of these with a link to the vid |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 03/09/2015 12:10 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 9 Mar 2015 13:36:42 -0400 "dadiOH" wrote: Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda was a thread here on a homemade one of these with a link to the vid Yup, just google "kerfmaker". |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 2:03:40 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote: "dadiOH" wrote in message ... Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda pricey, about $90 IIRC. Lawsy, so quick! Thanks, guys. -- dadiOH OK, guys, 'splain me sumthin... Will this device help me with my kitchen door project? The 1/4" grooves for the panels are cut. The next phase is to cut the stub tenons on the rails. The joints are offset such there will be a ~1/8" reveal on the back of the door and 3/8" on the front. The tenons will be 1/2" in length. (Maybe I should have cut the tenons first, and then matched the groove to them, but it's too late for that now.) Will this device help me set up dado so that I will get a perfect tenon? Since I have to do the tenons with 2 separate set-ups due to the offset, frankly, I'm a tad nervous. If I get the first side wrong, I'm screwed. A device (or a suggestion) for getting perfect offset tenons to fit pre-existing grooves would really help get me back on track. No, the kerf maker is only used to cut a grove or dado to the width of the piece it will receive. Bridge City does however also make a tenon maker. http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...onmaker-1.html That said, I don't know it it will solve your issue. Have you tried drawing the set up to see what needs to be cut and where? |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
DerbyDad03 wrote in
: The 1/4" grooves for the panels are cut. The next phase is to cut the stub tenons on the rails. The joints are offset such there will be a ~1/8" reveal on the back of the door and 3/8" on the front. The tenons will be 1/2" in length. Will this device help me set up dado so that I will get a perfect tenon? Since I have to do the tenons with 2 separate set-ups due to the offset, frankly, I'm a tad nervous. If I get the first side wrong, I'm screwed. Not totally sure I'm visualizing your problem correctly, but I think if I were doing it I'd want one setting for the dado blade, and use a spacer under the piece to make the shallower cut. Using a piece of scrap and some trial and error to get the thickness of the spacer right. Of course, what I'd probably actually do is just cut the tenons a tad fat, and shave them to fit with a shoulder plane. But if I had a whole lot to make, it'd be worth the time to make the spacer and cut them precisely. John |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 5:43:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote: On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 2:03:40 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote: "dadiOH" wrote in message ... Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda pricey, about $90 IIRC. Lawsy, so quick! Thanks, guys. -- dadiOH OK, guys, 'splain me sumthin... Will this device help me with my kitchen door project? The 1/4" grooves for the panels are cut. The next phase is to cut the stub tenons on the rails. The joints are offset such there will be a ~1/8" reveal on the back of the door and 3/8" on the front. The tenons will be 1/2" in length. (Maybe I should have cut the tenons first, and then matched the groove to them, but it's too late for that now.) Will this device help me set up dado so that I will get a perfect tenon? Since I have to do the tenons with 2 separate set-ups due to the offset, frankly, I'm a tad nervous. If I get the first side wrong, I'm screwed. A device (or a suggestion) for getting perfect offset tenons to fit pre-existing grooves would really help get me back on track. No, the kerf maker is only used to cut a grove or dado to the width of the piece it will receive. Bridge City does however also make a tenon maker. http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...onmaker-1.html No, I don't think that will help. That said, I don't know it it will solve your issue. Have you tried drawing the set up to see what needs to be cut and where? As I was typing up an explanation of what I thought my problem was, I think I came up with a solution. You know all of this already, but I'll spell it out so you'll know where my head was at. Let's say I wanted to center my panel in the 3/4" frame. I'd cut a perfectly centered groove, using the 2 pass, flip-the-board-end-to-end method. Then I'd cut my centered tenon on a rail, making it too big, then sneaking up on the final thickness by taking a little off both sides until it fit snug in the groove. Once the blade height was correct, I could cut 10,000 centered tenons without changing the set-up and they would all fit perfectly. However, since my groove is not centered (by design), I need 2 blade heights for the tenon: one for the 1/8" shoulder and one for the 3/8" shoulder. Theoretically, I should just be able to set the dado blade to 1/8", cut all 110 1/8" shoulders, then reset the dado to 3/8", flip the boards and cut the 110 3/8" shoulders. As we all know, theory-created tenons always fit perfectly, but practice-created tenons might not. At first I couldn't think of a way to test the blade set ups because of the offset groove, then I came up with this: If I turn a groove into a rabbet on a spare stile, I will remove the obstruction and can then test one of the shoulders for a flush fit with the face of the frame. Once I have that height, I can cut that side of the 110 tenons. Then I can sneak-up on the other side (the 1/8" shoulder) until it fits snug in the groove. Once I have that height, I can finish the 110 tenons and they'll all be perfect. :-) This picture explains what I mean. It's seems pretty simple now that I've thought of it, and it's probably old hat to you guys, but to me, it's all brand new. http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...sawdowuog..jpg |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 5:30:57 AM UTC-4, John McCoy wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote in : The 1/4" grooves for the panels are cut. The next phase is to cut the stub tenons on the rails. The joints are offset such there will be a ~1/8" reveal on the back of the door and 3/8" on the front. The tenons will be 1/2" in length. Will this device help me set up dado so that I will get a perfect tenon? Since I have to do the tenons with 2 separate set-ups due to the offset, frankly, I'm a tad nervous. If I get the first side wrong, I'm screwed. Not totally sure I'm visualizing your problem correctly, but I think if I were doing it I'd want one setting for the dado blade, and use a spacer under the piece to make the shallower cut. Using a piece of scrap and some trial and error to get the thickness of the spacer right. Of course, what I'd probably actually do is just cut the tenons a tad fat, and shave them to fit with a shoulder plane. But if I had a whole lot to make, it'd be worth the time to make the spacer and cut them precisely. John Thanks, John. My subsequent post includes a picture of the offset tenon I need, along the method I was considering. However, you method has merit also. Please take a look at this picture and let me know what you think. http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psawdowuog.jpg |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 5:43:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote: DerbyDad03 wrote: On Monday, March 9, 2015 at 2:03:40 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote: "dadiOH" wrote in message ... Anyone remember the name of the device? Cute little thing but kinda pricey, about $90 IIRC. Lawsy, so quick! Thanks, guys. -- dadiOH OK, guys, 'splain me sumthin... Will this device help me with my kitchen door project? The 1/4" grooves for the panels are cut. The next phase is to cut the stub tenons on the rails. The joints are offset such there will be a ~1/8" reveal on the back of the door and 3/8" on the front. The tenons will be 1/2" in length. (Maybe I should have cut the tenons first, and then matched the groove to them, but it's too late for that now.) Will this device help me set up dado so that I will get a perfect tenon? Since I have to do the tenons with 2 separate set-ups due to the offset, frankly, I'm a tad nervous. If I get the first side wrong, I'm screwed. A device (or a suggestion) for getting perfect offset tenons to fit pre-existing grooves would really help get me back on track. No, the kerf maker is only used to cut a grove or dado to the width of the piece it will receive. Bridge City does however also make a tenon maker. http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...onmaker-1.html No, I don't think that will help. That said, I don't know it it will solve your issue. Have you tried drawing the set up to see what needs to be cut and where? As I was typing up an explanation of what I thought my problem was, I think I came up with a solution. You know all of this already, but I'll spell it out so you'll know where my head was at. Let's say I wanted to center my panel in the 3/4" frame. I'd cut a perfectly centered groove, using the 2 pass, flip-the-board-end-to-end method. Then I'd cut my centered tenon on a rail, making it too big, then sneaking up on the final thickness by taking a little off both sides until it fit snug in the groove. Once the blade height was correct, I could cut 10,000 centered tenons without changing the set-up and they would all fit perfectly. However, since my groove is not centered (by design), I need 2 blade heights for the tenon: one for the 1/8" shoulder and one for the 3/8" shoulder. Theoretically, I should just be able to set the dado blade to 1/8", cut all 110 1/8" shoulders, then reset the dado to 3/8", flip the boards and cut the 110 3/8" shoulders. As we all know, theory-created tenons always fit perfectly, but practice-created tenons might not. At first I couldn't think of a way to test the blade set ups because of the offset groove, then I came up with this: If I turn a groove into a rabbet on a spare stile, I will remove the obstruction and can then test one of the shoulders for a flush fit with the face of the frame. Once I have that height, I can cut that side of the 110 tenons. Then I can sneak-up on the other side (the 1/8" shoulder) until it fits snug in the groove. Once I have that height, I can finish the 110 tenons and they'll all be perfect. :-) This picture explains what I mean. It's seems pretty simple now that I've thought of it, and it's probably old hat to you guys, but to me, it's all brand new. http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...psawdowuog.jpg Exactly. :--). Now all you/and I have to do is figure out a way to consistently cut all the tenon pieces to fit even when the rail has an ever so slight bow or a rail from another board that for some reason or another just happens to be 1/128" thicker or thinner than the rest. :-) Oh! One more hint. Always test the fit on the actual end of the stile where the rail will fit. IF you test fit in the groove in the middle of the stile the groove may not be the same width as at the ends. This is pretty common if your stiles are not perfectly flat when cutting a "centered" groove. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 3/10/2015 7:09 AM, Leon wrote:
Exactly. :--). Now all you/and I have to do is figure out a way to consistently cut all the tenon pieces to fit even when the rail has an ever so slight bow or a rail from another board that for some reason or another just happens to be 1/128" thicker or thinner than the rest. When you paint yourself into this kind of corner, either use a router table and one of the many rail/stile/tenon cutting bits available, or expect to take forever getting the job done satisfactorily. AKA why we learned to always center our panels when cutting _stub tenon_ doors on the table saw. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 3/10/2015 9:01 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 3/10/2015 7:09 AM, Leon wrote: Exactly. :--). Now all you/and I have to do is figure out a way to consistently cut all the tenon pieces to fit even when the rail has an ever so slight bow or a rail from another board that for some reason or another just happens to be 1/128" thicker or thinner than the rest. When you paint yourself into this kind of corner, either use a router table and one of the many rail/stile/tenon cutting bits available, or expect to take forever getting the job done satisfactorily AKA why we learned to always center our panels when cutting _stub tenon_ doors on the table saw. Cutting centered groves on the TS works well if the stock is all consistent in thickness and perfectly flat. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 10:01:42 AM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
On 3/10/2015 7:09 AM, Leon wrote: Exactly. :--). Now all you/and I have to do is figure out a way to consistently cut all the tenon pieces to fit even when the rail has an ever so slight bow or a rail from another board that for some reason or another just happens to be 1/128" thicker or thinner than the rest. When you paint yourself into this kind of corner, either use a router table and one of the many rail/stile/tenon cutting bits available, or expect to take forever getting the job done satisfactorily. AKA why we learned to always center our panels when cutting _stub tenon_ doors on the table saw. Yeah, but there is on more factor, something I mentioned in an earlier post related to this project: When I built a prototype door with a centered panel, neither SWMBO nor I like the looked. My brother had his kitchen re-done and he has the offset panels. We *really* liked that look and are trying to replicate it. We even went to the Borg to look at all the shaker style option and the offset panel consistently won. I'll see what I can do on the TS and if I can't get it to work, I'll try the router table route. I know it's more work and will take more time, but time I've got. :-) |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 3/10/2015 9:46 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 10:01:42 AM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: On 3/10/2015 7:09 AM, Leon wrote: Exactly. :--). Now all you/and I have to do is figure out a way to consistently cut all the tenon pieces to fit even when the rail has an ever so slight bow or a rail from another board that for some reason or another just happens to be 1/128" thicker or thinner than the rest. When you paint yourself into this kind of corner, either use a router table and one of the many rail/stile/tenon cutting bits available, or expect to take forever getting the job done satisfactorily. AKA why we learned to always center our panels when cutting _stub tenon_ doors on the table saw. Yeah, but there is on more factor, something I mentioned in an earlier post related to this project: When I built a prototype door with a centered panel, neither SWMBO nor I like the looked. My brother had his kitchen re-done and he has the offset panels. We *really* liked that look and are trying to replicate it. We even went to the Borg to look at all the shaker style option and the offset panel consistently won. I'll see what I can do on the TS and if I can't get it to work, I'll try the router table route. I know it's more work and will take more time, but time I've got. :-) Cutting a grove on the edge of rails and stiles off center is just a little more trouble than centered and so is cutting the stub tenons. Instead of making a pass and flipping the board and making another pass for the groves you simply run all pieces through one time, adjust the fence, and run them through again in the same direction. Done. Use a scrap for set up. The stub tenons are basically done the same way, cut one side on both ends first and on a scrap, adjust dado blade height and check on the scrap, then cut the opposite side of the rail on both sides. Done. I can't see how there would be any advantage to using a straight bit on a router table vs. a dado blade on a TS unless using Rail and Stile router bits which tend to fit together regardless because there is no adjustment other than height location. The big issue with both the TS and router table methods is if the wood is not exactly the same thickness or if the wood is not perfectly flat. It should be obvious why different thickness brings up an issue but if the wood is not flat it will cause tenons to be shallow on the bottom side if the wood bows up in the middle. If the wood is not dead flat against the work surface at the cutter the cut is going to be off. You are looking for a perfect fit on these type joints, even being off 1/256" will result in a less than desirable fit. If the joints do not hold together with out glue they are probably too loose and if you have to use a hammer to close the joint they are too tight. Also, as I have brought up in the past, the quality of your blades or cutters can affect your results. Yeah the cheaper dado blades and regular blades can get the job done. The better blades result in less tear out. Tear out can wrap around the end of a board and raise it causing a slight gap between the table surface and the face of the board. Even excess dust on the table surface or board surface can cause problems. Now having said that these joints typically still work if a bit less than perfect. Mine are not all perfect for reasons I have listed and the relative moisture content of a board can throw off thickness enough to cause an inconsistency in board thickness. But add wood glue to a loose fit joint and the wood tends to swell and the fit becomes better. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 11:28:51 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/10/2015 9:46 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 10:01:42 AM UTC-4, Swingman wrote: On 3/10/2015 7:09 AM, Leon wrote: Exactly. :--). Now all you/and I have to do is figure out a way to consistently cut all the tenon pieces to fit even when the rail has an ever so slight bow or a rail from another board that for some reason or another just happens to be 1/128" thicker or thinner than the rest. When you paint yourself into this kind of corner, either use a router table and one of the many rail/stile/tenon cutting bits available, or expect to take forever getting the job done satisfactorily. AKA why we learned to always center our panels when cutting _stub tenon_ doors on the table saw. Yeah, but there is on more factor, something I mentioned in an earlier post related to this project: When I built a prototype door with a centered panel, neither SWMBO nor I like the looked. My brother had his kitchen re-done and he has the offset panels. We *really* liked that look and are trying to replicate it. We even went to the Borg to look at all the shaker style option and the offset panel consistently won. I'll see what I can do on the TS and if I can't get it to work, I'll try the router table route. I know it's more work and will take more time, but time I've got. :-) Cutting a grove on the edge of rails and stiles off center is just a little more trouble than centered and so is cutting the stub tenons. Instead of making a pass and flipping the board and making another pass for the groves you simply run all pieces through one time, adjust the fence, and run them through again in the same direction. Done. Use a scrap for set up. Actually, I was recently gifted an Amana dado set. With the set I was able to cut the 1/4" groove in a single pass. The groove fits the 1/4" MDF that I will be using perfectly. Note: the 1/4" MDF from HD is not 1/4" (7/32-ish) The 1/4" MDF from the lumber yard where I bought the poplar is 1/4" and fits the dado set grooves perfectly. The stub tenons are basically done the same way, cut one side on both ends first and on a scrap, adjust dado blade height and check on the scrap, then cut the opposite side of the rail on both sides. Done. I think the method described in this picture is the same as what you are saying in your text. As they used to say on my high school essay exams, please compare and contrast. http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...sawdowuog..jpg I can't see how there would be any advantage to using a straight bit on a router table vs. a dado blade on a TS unless using Rail and Stile router bits which tend to fit together regardless because there is no adjustment other than height location. The big issue with both the TS and router table methods is if the wood is not exactly the same thickness or if the wood is not perfectly flat. It should be obvious why different thickness brings up an issue but if the wood is not flat it will cause tenons to be shallow on the bottom side if the wood bows up in the middle. If the wood is not dead flat against the work surface at the cutter the cut is going to be off. You are looking for a perfect fit on these type joints, even being off 1/256" will result in a less than desirable fit. If the joints do not hold together with out glue they are probably too loose and if you have to use a hammer to close the joint they are too tight. Also, as I have brought up in the past, the quality of your blades or cutters can affect your results. Yeah the cheaper dado blades and regular blades can get the job done. The better blades result in less tear out. Tear out can wrap around the end of a board and raise it causing a slight gap between the table surface and the face of the board. Even excess dust on the table surface or board surface can cause problems. I assume the Amana set is one of the "better blades". Now having said that these joints typically still work if a bit less than perfect. Mine are not all perfect for reasons I have listed and the relative moisture content of a board can throw off thickness enough to cause an inconsistency in board thickness. But add wood glue to a loose fit joint and the wood tends to swell and the fit becomes better. That's my hope: Maybe not perfect, but tight enough to work and to last. The fact that they will be painted should allow for slightly less than perfect to suffice from a visual perspective, anyway. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
DerbyDad03 wrote:
That's my hope: Maybe not perfect, but tight enough to work and to last. The fact that they will be painted should allow for slightly less than perfect to suffice from a visual perspective, anyway. I know you are filled with angs tbut it will be easier than you think and all will work well. Face it: cabinet doors - (MOST cabinet doors) - aren't stressed beyond opening and closing. If the tongue goes in the groove without major rattling and if you use glue, they will hold together. -- dadiOH ____________________________ Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race? Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 3/10/2015 12:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 11:28:51 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote: Snip Also, as I have brought up in the past, the quality of your blades or cutters can affect your results. Yeah the cheaper dado blades and regular blades can get the job done. The better blades result in less tear out. Tear out can wrap around the end of a board and raise it causing a slight gap between the table surface and the face of the board. Even excess dust on the table surface or board surface can cause problems. I assume the Amana set is one of the "better blades". Your results and how long it performs well will be the indicator. Amana is certainly a good brand but like most brands there are varying degrees of quality. Now having said that these joints typically still work if a bit less than perfect. Mine are not all perfect for reasons I have listed and the relative moisture content of a board can throw off thickness enough to cause an inconsistency in board thickness. But add wood glue to a loose fit joint and the wood tends to swell and the fit becomes better. That's my hope: Maybe not perfect, but tight enough to work and to last. The fact that they will be painted should allow for slightly less than perfect to suffice from a visual perspective, anyway. Slightly snug with out glue is what you are shooting for. I have certainly had my share of questionable joints that were on the loose side but none have failed. Because looser fitting joints don't fit tightly to begin with the joints typically need more cleanup and sanding after glue up. It pays to be anal. ;~) |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 4:01:18 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 3/10/2015 12:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 11:28:51 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote: Snip Also, as I have brought up in the past, the quality of your blades or cutters can affect your results. Yeah the cheaper dado blades and regular blades can get the job done. The better blades result in less tear out. Tear out can wrap around the end of a board and raise it causing a slight gap between the table surface and the face of the board. Even excess dust on the table surface or board surface can cause problems. I assume the Amana set is one of the "better blades". Your results and how long it performs well will be the indicator. Amana is certainly a good brand but like most brands there are varying degrees of quality. Now having said that these joints typically still work if a bit less than perfect. Mine are not all perfect for reasons I have listed and the relative moisture content of a board can throw off thickness enough to cause an inconsistency in board thickness. But add wood glue to a loose fit joint and the wood tends to swell and the fit becomes better. That's my hope: Maybe not perfect, but tight enough to work and to last. The fact that they will be painted should allow for slightly less than perfect to suffice from a visual perspective, anyway. Slightly snug with out glue is what you are shooting for. I have certainly had my share of questionable joints that were on the loose side but none have failed. Because looser fitting joints don't fit tightly to begin with the joints typically need more cleanup and sanding after glue up. It pays to be anal. ;~) Oh, trust me...I know about anal. That's why this is taking me so long. Ya know, I still have some West Systems epoxy and 404 filler from my Derby racing days. If the tenons don't fit I'll just lop 'em off and make new ones out of epoxy. ;-) |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
DerbyDad03 wrote in
: On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 11:28:51 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote: But add wood glue to a loose fit joint and the wood tends to swell and the fit becomes better. That's my hope: Maybe not perfect, but tight enough to work and to last. If the tenon is thin enough that you're worried about it, just stuff in a plane shaving or some similarly thin shim when you glue it up. John |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 3:52:44 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote: That's my hope: Maybe not perfect, but tight enough to work and to last. The fact that they will be painted should allow for slightly less than perfect to suffice from a visual perspective, anyway. I know you are filled with angs tbut it will be easier than you think and all will work well. Face it: cabinet doors - (MOST cabinet doors) - aren't stressed beyond opening and closing. If the tongue goes in the groove without major rattling and if you use glue, they will hold together. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll never know how this will turn out unless I actually put blade to wood and I also know that things rarely turn out as bad as we think they will. Besides, this isn't rocket surgery. It's just wood and wood can be re-bought and re-cut if things go terribly bad. I'm bound to get *some* of them right. For the others, well, spring is coming and the fire pit is beginning to thaw out. ;-) |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
DerbyDad03 wrote in
: Besides, this isn't rocket surgery. It's just wood and wood can be re-bought and re-cut if things go terribly bad. I'm bound to get *some* of them right. For the others, well, spring is coming and the fire pit is beginning to thaw out. ;-) The mark of a craftsman is being able to fix his mistakes... John |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 3/10/2015 3:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Besides, this isn't rocket surgery. It's just wood and wood can be re-bought and re-cut if things go terribly bad. I'm bound to get*some* of them right. For the others, well, spring is coming and the fire pit is beginning to thaw out.;-) When it come to making doors, methods can be cussed and discussed, but the two most important elements have little to do with methods: Stock _selection_ (knowing which wood to use for doors, along with the way it was cut from the log, both key to stock that is less likely to warp, bow or twist). And stock _preparation_ (consistency in thickness and flatness), are the two mandatory elements to successfully building doors (and the reason why we own jointers and planers). More so than most any other woodworking endeavor, and much more so than the method used. -- eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/ KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
blade thickness gizmo
On 3/10/2015 3:31 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 4:01:18 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote: On 3/10/2015 12:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: On Tuesday, March 10, 2015 at 11:28:51 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote: Snip Also, as I have brought up in the past, the quality of your blades or cutters can affect your results. Yeah the cheaper dado blades and regular blades can get the job done. The better blades result in less tear out. Tear out can wrap around the end of a board and raise it causing a slight gap between the table surface and the face of the board. Even excess dust on the table surface or board surface can cause problems. I assume the Amana set is one of the "better blades". Your results and how long it performs well will be the indicator. Amana is certainly a good brand but like most brands there are varying degrees of quality. Now having said that these joints typically still work if a bit less than perfect. Mine are not all perfect for reasons I have listed and the relative moisture content of a board can throw off thickness enough to cause an inconsistency in board thickness. But add wood glue to a loose fit joint and the wood tends to swell and the fit becomes better. That's my hope: Maybe not perfect, but tight enough to work and to last. The fact that they will be painted should allow for slightly less than perfect to suffice from a visual perspective, anyway. Slightly snug with out glue is what you are shooting for. I have certainly had my share of questionable joints that were on the loose side but none have failed. Because looser fitting joints don't fit tightly to begin with the joints typically need more cleanup and sanding after glue up. It pays to be anal. ;~) Oh, trust me...I know about anal. That's why this is taking me so long. Ya know, I still have some West Systems epoxy and 404 filler from my Derby racing days. If the tenons don't fit I'll just lop 'em off and make new ones out of epoxy. ;-) You will be fine, just practice on same thickness and wood scraps. There is not much more you can do after you have the set up fine tuned. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
TV aerial gizmo | Electronics Repair | |||
blade thickness, 13A plug earth pin ? | UK diy | |||
why is this gizmo made this way? | Home Repair | |||
Delta 12" Portable Thickness Planer or 22" Shop Built Thickness Sander? | Woodworking | |||
0.035" Bandsaw Blade Thickness | Metalworking |