I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two. I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two. I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!

My Rigid had the same problem, but there was not enough aluminum on
the face to to this. I glued a piece of quarter inch board to each
side, then flattened it on the jointer. So far it is doing fine.

--
 GW Ross 

 Please Tell Me if you Don't Get This 
 Message. 

"G. Ross" wrote in message
...
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut
everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel
plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision
square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that
I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but
never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down
on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the
fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip
fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted
me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling
machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two.
I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!

My Rigid had the same problem, but there was not enough aluminum on the
face to to this. I glued a piece of quarter inch board to each side, then
flattened it on the jointer. So far it is doing fine.

--
 GW Ross 

 Please Tell Me if you Don't Get This 
 Message. 







I think I had the same saw. When I got it back from a friend I had loaned it
to, the fence was concave. I don't think he abused it. He was not very
experienced with power tools - I suspect he bound the blade somehow while
sawing. I bought a new fence for $21. I sold the saw the same year and
bought a Makita slider. I have since replaced its fence too.

Steve

On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 9:08:36 PM UTC-5, SnA Higgins wrote:
"G. Ross" wrote in message
...
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut
everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel
plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision
square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that
I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but
never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down
on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the
fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip
fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted
me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling
machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two.
I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen..

Wish me (them) luck!

My Rigid had the same problem, but there was not enough aluminum on the
face to to this. I glued a piece of quarter inch board to each side, then
flattened it on the jointer. So far it is doing fine.

--
 GW Ross 

 Please Tell Me if you Don't Get This 
 Message. 







I think I had the same saw. When I got it back from a friend I had loaned it
to, the fence was concave. I don't think he abused it. He was not very
experienced with power tools - I suspect he bound the blade somehow while
sawing. I bought a new fence for $21. I sold the saw the same year and
bought a Makita slider. I have since replaced its fence too.

Steve

I have searched for a replacement fence but apparently it has been discontinued. Aside from the usual on-line tool parts sites, I tried eBay and Craigslist. The closest I could get to a replacement fence was a guy selling the same saw for $50. While it sounds like a good deal, the guy is at least 1.5 hours away from where I live and even though he said the fence is straight, that's a long ride to find out that it is not.

If the local machine shop can flatten my fence for $50, I'll be satisfied. I dropped it off last night. The guy gave me a tour of the shop area and showed me the machine he plans to use. This is no small time operation. You could mill the side of a refrigerator on the machine he going to use for my little fence. It was just one of the many large machines in the shop. It was a cool tour.

Besides dropping off the fence at the machine shop, I also took a pair of skis to guy that does ski tune-ups in his garage. He used to own a ski-shop so he has all the equipment and now does it on the side. It turned out his place is just a few miles from the machine shop, so yesterday afternoon was kind of an adventure. I met 2 really nice guys and toured 2 interesting locations.

I am such a kid sometimes. ;-)

I got my miter saw fence back Friday afternoon and couldn't be happier. When I brought the fence to the machine shop the face was concave to the extent that you could slip a business card under the center. When the guy was done with it, I tested it with a brand new $20 bill and it wouldn't go under the fence at any point.

The guy originally quoted me $50, but only charged me $40. He said he milled the fence with a one day turnaround because "I figured you would want it for the weekend." He was right! I cut all the parts for my kitchen drawers on Saturday with each part being as square as I could possibly want.

There are still a lot of nice people in this world and I like it when I stumble across one.




On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 11:59:13 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two. I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!

On 1/18/2015 9:43 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I got my miter saw fence back Friday afternoon and couldn't be happier. When I brought the fence to the machine shop the face was concave to the extent that you could slip a business card under the center. When the guy was done with it, I tested it with a brand new $20 bill and it wouldn't go under the fence at any point.

The guy originally quoted me $50, but only charged me $40. He said he milled the fence with a one day turnaround because "I figured you would want it for the weekend." He was right! I cut all the parts for my kitchen drawers on Saturday with each part being as square as I could possibly want.

There are still a lot of nice people in this world and I like it when I stumble across one.




On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 11:59:13 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two. I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!


Excellent. I think the price was extremely reasonable , since it really
takes a lot of setup to zero it out before milling.

Glad to hear it worked out.

BTW we woodworkers can learn a lot from the metal workers.
And vise versa. I have learned to do some things differently.



--
Jeff

How would I go about finding a shop to do the same for my crappy Hitachi CMS? I'm sure the fence on it is bad.

On 1/18/2015 9:43 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I got my miter saw fence back Friday afternoon and couldn't be happier. When I brought the fence to the machine shop the face was concave to the extent that you could slip a business card under the center. When the guy was done with it, I tested it with a brand new $20 bill and it wouldn't go under the fence at any point.

The guy originally quoted me $50, but only charged me $40. He said he milled the fence with a one day turnaround because "I figured you would want it for the weekend." He was right! I cut all the parts for my kitchen drawers on Saturday with each part being as square as I could possibly want.

There are still a lot of nice people in this world and I like it when I stumble across one.




On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 11:59:13 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two. I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!

On Sunday, January 18, 2015 at 3:34:36 PM UTC-5, mcp6453 wrote:

On 1/18/2015 9:43 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I got my miter saw fence back Friday afternoon and couldn't be happier. When I brought the fence to the machine shop the face was concave to the extent that you could slip a business card under the center. When the guy was done with it, I tested it with a brand new $20 bill and it wouldn't go under the fence at any point.

The guy originally quoted me $50, but only charged me $40. He said he milled the fence with a one day turnaround because "I figured you would want it for the weekend." He was right! I cut all the parts for my kitchen drawers on Saturday with each part being as square as I could possibly want.

There are still a lot of nice people in this world and I like it when I stumble across one.




On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 11:59:13 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two. I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!


How would I go about finding a shop to do the same for my crappy Hitachi CMS? I'm sure the fence on it is bad.


I did a Google search for machine shops in my local area. I then tried to narrow it down to smaller shops since I figured I had a better chance of finding someone willing to take on this one-off job.

I called three places. I left a message at one place but never got a call back. Another place gave me the number of the guy that runs the machinist program at the local community college. I left him a message but never got a call back. The third place listened to my tale of woe and asked me to email a picture of the fence mainly to make that they could clamp it down without too much trouble. Once he looked at the picture, he said bring it over and the next day it was done.

On 1/18/15 2:34 PM, mcp6453 wrote:
How would I go about finding a shop to do the same for my crappy
Hitachi CMS? I'm sure the fence on it is bad.


I don't know if you have a piece of granite around, but you might be
able to do that yourself. I did it with a jointer fence that was a bit
warped.

You need a perfectly flat surface or something really darn close.
Granite is usually extremely flat. If you have a workbench and can
check for a good flat section, it could work as well. You can build a
flat-table quickly by screwing down 3/4" sheet material to strong-backs
that have been jointed flat or run through a properly set-up table saw.

Basically you stick a sheet of sandpaper to the flat surface and run the
fence face over the sandpaper by hand, over and over. The first run
would use a very course grit like 80 grit or even 60. You sand until
the surface sheen looks even everywhere, then check with your reference
straight-edge. Every shop should have a real straight-edge, IMO. You
can check the width flatness with an engineer's square (another
must-have) and the length flatness with the straight-edge.

Once it's flat in both directions, switch to a finer grit to sand out
the course scratches, always using your flat sanding surface. Keep
going to finer grits until it's as smooth as you like. You can actually
get a decent glossy buff using this technique.

You can attach the sandpaper to your flat surface with double backed
tape or spray adhesive. For spray adhesive, use the directions for a
temporary bond. The paper will peel back off like a heavy-duty Post-It
note.

If you don't have granite or a real straight-edge to make a flat
surface, it may not be worth the effort to do it yourself. I have
granite and a couple other flat surfaces because I use them to flatten
the bearing edges or drum shells. I also found that the sandpaper
doesn't have to be as long or longer than the surface you're sanding.
On objects that are longer than the sandpaper, it sort of averages out
from multiple passes. On a SCMS split fence, one sheet should work well.

All that, plus tax. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote:


I don't know if you have a piece of granite around, but you might be
able to do that yourself. I did it with a jointer fence that was a
bit
warped.

You need a perfectly flat surface or something really darn close.
Granite is usually extremely flat. If you have a workbench and can
check for a good flat section, it could work as well. You can
build a
flat-table quickly by screwing down 3/4" sheet material to
strong-backs
that have been jointed flat or run through a properly set-up table
saw.

Basically you stick a sheet of sandpaper to the flat surface and run
the
fence face over the sandpaper by hand, over and over. The first run
would use a very course grit like 80 grit or even 60. You sand
until
the surface sheen looks even everywhere, then check with your
reference
straight-edge. Every shop should have a real straight-edge, IMO.
You
can check the width flatness with an engineer's square (another
must-have) and the length flatness with the straight-edge.

Once it's flat in both directions, switch to a finer grit to sand
out
the course scratches, always using your flat sanding surface. Keep
going to finer grits until it's as smooth as you like. You can
actually
get a decent glossy buff using this technique.

You can attach the sandpaper to your flat surface with double backed
tape or spray adhesive. For spray adhesive, use the directions for
a
temporary bond. The paper will peel back off like a heavy-duty
Post-It
note.

If you don't have granite or a real straight-edge to make a flat
surface, it may not be worth the effort to do it yourself. I have
granite and a couple other flat surfaces because I use them to
flatten
the bearing edges or drum shells. I also found that the sandpaper
doesn't have to be as long or longer than the surface you're
sanding.
On objects that are longer than the sandpaper, it sort of averages
out
from multiple passes. On a SCMS split fence, one sheet should work
well.

All that, plus tax. :-)
------------------------------------------------
You just documented what a deal $40 spent at
a local machine shop really was.G

Lew

On 1/19/15 2:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote:


I don't know if you have a piece of granite around, but you might be
able to do that yourself. I did it with a jointer fence that was a
bit
warped.

You need a perfectly flat surface or something really darn close.
Granite is usually extremely flat. If you have a workbench and can
check for a good flat section, it could work as well. You can
build a
flat-table quickly by screwing down 3/4" sheet material to
strong-backs
that have been jointed flat or run through a properly set-up table
saw.

Basically you stick a sheet of sandpaper to the flat surface and run
the
fence face over the sandpaper by hand, over and over. The first run
would use a very course grit like 80 grit or even 60. You sand
until
the surface sheen looks even everywhere, then check with your
reference
straight-edge. Every shop should have a real straight-edge, IMO.
You
can check the width flatness with an engineer's square (another
must-have) and the length flatness with the straight-edge.

Once it's flat in both directions, switch to a finer grit to sand
out
the course scratches, always using your flat sanding surface. Keep
going to finer grits until it's as smooth as you like. You can
actually
get a decent glossy buff using this technique.

You can attach the sandpaper to your flat surface with double backed
tape or spray adhesive. For spray adhesive, use the directions for
a
temporary bond. The paper will peel back off like a heavy-duty
Post-It
note.

If you don't have granite or a real straight-edge to make a flat
surface, it may not be worth the effort to do it yourself. I have
granite and a couple other flat surfaces because I use them to
flatten
the bearing edges or drum shells. I also found that the sandpaper
doesn't have to be as long or longer than the surface you're
sanding.
On objects that are longer than the sandpaper, it sort of averages
out
from multiple passes. On a SCMS split fence, one sheet should work
well.

All that, plus tax. :-)
------------------------------------------------
You just documented what a deal $40 spent at
a local machine shop really was.G

Lew



HAAA!!!!!
You might be right.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut
everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel
plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision
square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that
I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but
never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on
a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence
starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully
under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted
me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling
machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two.
I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!


$50 is a very fair price for a job like that. Its not excessively
difficult, but it does take a little time.

That being said, I've seen a number of miter saws with the same problem.
Sometimes brand new out of the box. Others twist the moment you tighten
down the bolts that hold them to the saw. You may want to see if you can
lay a good straight edge across the areas where the fence rests and spend
some time with a file taking off the high spots and making it flat.

On Mon, 19 Jan 2015 17:43:44 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut
everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel
plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision
square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that
I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but
never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on
a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence
starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully
under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted
me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling
machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two.
I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!


$50 is a very fair price for a job like that. Its not excessively
difficult, but it does take a little time.

That being said, I've seen a number of miter saws with the same problem.
Sometimes brand new out of the box. Others twist the moment you tighten
down the bolts that hold them to the saw. You may want to see if you can
lay a good straight edge across the areas where the fence rests and spend
some time with a file taking off the high spots and making it flat.

If that's the case (twist the moment you tighten the bolts), what
chance do you have of keeping it flat/true?

On 1/19/2015 6:57 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Jan 2015 17:43:44 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut
everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel
plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision
square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that
I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but
never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on
a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence
starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully
under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted
me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling
machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two.
I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!


$50 is a very fair price for a job like that. Its not excessively
difficult, but it does take a little time.

That being said, I've seen a number of miter saws with the same problem.
Sometimes brand new out of the box. Others twist the moment you tighten
down the bolts that hold them to the saw. You may want to see if you can
lay a good straight edge across the areas where the fence rests and spend
some time with a file taking off the high spots and making it flat.

If that's the case (twist the moment you tighten the bolts), what
chance do you have of keeping it flat/true?

Not a whole lot. These saws were never designed to be precise
instruments so much as a tool that can survive bounding around in the
back of a pick up. I have a Delta CMS that I thought was pretty good
after I tweaked it. I quit using it 15 years ago when I stepped up to a
Cabinet saw and found that I got superior repeated accuracy from the TS.

No doubt these saws are better than they used to be but the fences still
tend to have a potential for problems. I am not quite sure why fences
are not indexed to lock flat in place.

Now the Festool on the other hand may not have these issues but you are
paying for 3 saws. IIRC even the Bosch articulating SCMS has issues
with accuracy, especially if carried to a job site.

On Monday, January 19, 2015 at 7:43:45 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut
everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2" steel
plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require precision
square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found that
I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but
never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down on
a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the fence
starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip fully
under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they quoted
me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling
machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or two.
I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!


$50 is a very fair price for a job like that. Its not excessively
difficult, but it does take a little time.

That being said, I've seen a number of miter saws with the same problem.
Sometimes brand new out of the box. Others twist the moment you tighten
down the bolts that hold them to the saw. You may want to see if you can
lay a good straight edge across the areas where the fence rests and spend
some time with a file taking off the high spots and making it flat.

As I mentioned earlier, the fence itself is (was) the issue. I laid it flat on my table saw and it is (was) concave all by itself.

I used the saw extensively this weekend and every cut was square.

On 1/20/2015 9:05 AM, Leon wrote:

Now the Festool on the other hand may not have these issues but you are
paying for 3 saws. IIRC even the Bosch articulating SCMS has issues
with accuracy, especially if carried to a job site.

My Makita LS1013, locked down for travel but obviously not fastened
properly to the stand, took a tumble off said stand, hit the driveway,
flipped end over end, bounced twice on the concrete and landed, upside
down, in a flowerbed.

It was one of those rare jobs that don't go well from start to finish,
mainly because of ignorance and indecision on the part of the client. By
now, operating on a thin margin due to that ignorance and indecision but
still trying to please the client, I sighed, resigned that it was just
more of the same and it was new saw time ... c'est la vie.

Put the damned thing back on the stand, plugged it in, and it went right
back to doing its business with its usual spot on accuracy.

Another reason I like Makita.

Built-in karma...


--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Monday, January 19, 2015 at 11:51:57 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
I don't know if you have a piece of granite around, but you might be
able to do that yourself.

Scary Flat (TM)

On 1/20/2015 11:58 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/20/2015 9:05 AM, Leon wrote:

Now the Festool on the other hand may not have these issues but you are
paying for 3 saws. IIRC even the Bosch articulating SCMS has issues
with accuracy, especially if carried to a job site.

My Makita LS1013, locked down for travel but obviously not fastened
properly to the stand, took a tumble off said stand, hit the driveway,
flipped end over end, bounced twice on the concrete and landed, upside
down, in a flowerbed.

It was one of those rare jobs that don't go well from start to finish,
mainly because of ignorance and indecision on the part of the client. By
now, operating on a thin margin due to that ignorance and indecision but
still trying to please the client, I sighed, resigned that it was just
more of the same and it was new saw time ... c'est la vie.

Put the damned thing back on the stand, plugged it in, and it went right
back to doing its business with its usual spot on accuracy.

Another reason I like Makita.

Built-in karma...


Yeah! If I were to buy another miter saw it most likely will be Makita.
Their tools still seem to have a very consistent quality and are
reasonably priced. But you have to admit, you were lucky! LOL

On 1/20/15 12:51 PM, Harold Hill wrote:
On Monday, January 19, 2015 at 11:51:57 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
I don't know if you have a piece of granite around, but you might be
able to do that yourself.

Scary Flat (TM)


HA!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 9:08:36 PM UTC-5, SnA Higgins wrote:
"G. Ross" wrote in message
...
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I have beat up my Delta 36-220 miter saw over the years. I have cut
everything from vinyl stock to hardwoods to 3/4" steel rod to 1/2"
steel
plates.

I am starting my first project in many years that will require
precision
square cuts and while attempting to square up the miter saw, I found
that
I could only square the blade to one side of the fence or the other but
never both.

It turns out that my fence is concave. If I lay the 18" fence face down
on a flat surface, a business card will just begin to slip under the
fence starting about 2" from each end. At about 4", the card will slip
fully under the fence with just a little bit of drag.

I contacted a local milling shop, sent then some pictures and they
quoted
me $50 to clamp the fence to their table and use a horizontal milling
machine to flatten the face.

I'll be dropping it off tonight and probably get it back in a day or
two.
I'd like it back before the long weekend, but I doubt that will happen.

Wish me (them) luck!

My Rigid had the same problem, but there was not enough aluminum on the
face to to this. I glued a piece of quarter inch board to each side,
then
flattened it on the jointer. So far it is doing fine.

--
 GW Ross 

 Please Tell Me if you Don't Get This 
 Message. 







I think I had the same saw. When I got it back from a friend I had loaned
it
to, the fence was concave. I don't think he abused it. He was not very
experienced with power tools - I suspect he bound the blade somehow while
sawing. I bought a new fence for $21. I sold the saw the same year and
bought a Makita slider. I have since replaced its fence too.

Steve

I have searched for a replacement fence but apparently it has been
discontinued. Aside from the usual on-line tool parts sites, I tried eBay
and Craigslist. The closest I could get to a replacement fence was a guy
selling the same saw for $50. While it sounds like a good deal, the guy is
at least 1.5 hours away from where I live and even though he said the fence
is straight, that's a long ride to find out that it is not.

If the local machine shop can flatten my fence for $50, I'll be satisfied. I
dropped it off last night. The guy gave me a tour of the shop area and
showed me the machine he plans to use. This is no small time operation. You
could mill the side of a refrigerator on the machine he going to use for my
little fence. It was just one of the many large machines in the shop. It was
a cool tour.

Besides dropping off the fence at the machine shop, I also took a pair of
skis to guy that does ski tune-ups in his garage. He used to own a ski-shop
so he has all the equipment and now does it on the side. It turned out his
place is just a few miles from the machine shop, so yesterday afternoon was
kind of an adventure. I met 2 really nice guys and toured 2 interesting
locations.

I am such a kid sometimes. ;-)

So, when the guy does a tune up on your skis, what's he do? plugs and
points? A new carb kit? Sorry. I couldn't resist.

Steve

On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 8:34:43 PM UTC-5, SnA Higgins wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

....Snip...


Besides dropping off the fence at the machine shop, I also took a pair of
skis to guy that does ski tune-ups in his garage.

....Snip...

So, when the guy does a tune up on your skis, what's he do? plugs and
points? A new carb kit? Sorry. I couldn't resist.

Steve

You are close. Besides tuning up the engines, he is also a computer whiz. I started with a single one of these, but now strap one to each foot. They use radio communications and feedback loops so that both skis stay in sync regardless of the snow conditions that each one encounters as well as the differential in power requirements for turns, stops, etc.

http://www.a2xtreme.com/2000/art3/plank8.jpg

http://www.a2xtreme.com/2000/art2/apwrplank3.jpg

I save a lot of money on lift tickets.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, January 20, 2015 at 8:34:43 PM UTC-5, SnA Higgins wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

....Snip...


Besides dropping off the fence at the machine shop, I also took a pair of
skis to guy that does ski tune-ups in his garage.

....Snip...

So, when the guy does a tune up on your skis, what's he do? plugs and
points? A new carb kit? Sorry. I couldn't resist.

Steve

You are close. Besides tuning up the engines, he is also a computer whiz. I
started with a single one of these, but now strap one to each foot. They use
radio communications and feedback loops so that both skis stay in sync
regardless of the snow conditions that each one encounters as well as the
differential in power requirements for turns, stops, etc.

http://www.a2xtreme.com/2000/art3/plank8.jpg

http://www.a2xtreme.com/2000/art2/apwrplank3.jpg

I save a lot of money on lift tickets.

LOL! If I had a pair of those, I'd surly be followed by a kid that says,
"hey Dad! Why is that snowsuit pasted to that tree?"

Steve