A recent project rquired some very accurate 45-degree cuts, and my
Makita sliding compound miter saw did the job, well, _reasonably_
enough, but it was next to impossible to get the cuts absolutely
perfect. So I'm looking for advice on two possible solutions.

The first is the Makita fence. It's a single piece of metal that
formes the fence, with a c-shaped curve to accommodate the blade. Mine
seems to be a bit off, in that the faces of the two "fences" aren't co-
planar. So, while I could set one side to be dead-on perfect, the
other side will be slightly off. This was a problem when I tried to do
corner cuts on some corner trim. I might be able to bend them
slightly, but that won't be very precise. Would it be worth buying a
replacement part? Or...

.... I might try to build my own fence for my saw. And if i'm going to
build one, it ought to have some things like stops, marks, and dead-on
calibration. A breif web searech ahsn't turned up many examples, so
could someone recommend a good fence design for this saw?

Thanks in advance.

BrianSiano wrote:
A recent project rquired some very accurate 45-degree cuts, and my
Makita sliding compound miter saw did the job, well, _reasonably_
enough, but it was next to impossible to get the cuts absolutely
perfect. So I'm looking for advice on two possible solutions.

The first is the Makita fence. It's a single piece of metal that
formes the fence, with a c-shaped curve to accommodate the blade. Mine
seems to be a bit off, in that the faces of the two "fences" aren't
co- planar. So, while I could set one side to be dead-on perfect, the
other side will be slightly off. This was a problem when I tried to do
corner cuts on some corner trim. I might be able to bend them
slightly, but that won't be very precise. Would it be worth buying a
replacement part? Or...

... I might try to build my own fence for my saw. And if i'm going to
build one, it ought to have some things like stops, marks, and dead-on
calibration. A breif web searech ahsn't turned up many examples, so
could someone recommend a good fence design for this saw?

Thanks in advance.

It may be as simple as a defective fence. Maybe if you called Makita...

On Mar 10, 1:40* , BrianSiano wrote:
A recent project rquired some very accurate 45-degree cuts, and my
Makita sliding compound miter saw did the job, well, _reasonably_
enough, but it was next to impossible to get the cuts absolutely
perfect. So I'm looking for advice on two possible solutions.

The first is the Makita fence. It's a single piece of metal that
formes the fence, with a c-shaped curve to accommodate the blade. Mine
seems to be a bit off, in that the faces of the two "fences" aren't co-
planar. So, while I could set one side to be dead-on perfect, the
other side will be slightly off. This was a problem when I tried to do
corner cuts on some corner trim. I might be able to bend them
slightly, but that won't be very precise. Would it be worth buying a
replacement part? Or...

... I might try to build my own fence for my saw. And if i'm going to
build one, it ought to have some things like stops, marks, and dead-on
calibration. A breif web searech ahsn't turned up many examples, so
could someone recommend a good fence design for this saw?

Thanks in advance.
:…
Mine was off a hair as well. I had an acquaintance at a local machine
shop touch it up on the grinder. A 24 pack of beer, and he go to keep
most of them

On Mar 10, 10:40*am, BrianSiano wrote:
A recent project rquired some very accurate 45-degree cuts, and my
Makita sliding compound miter saw did the job, well, _reasonably_
enough, but it was next to impossible to get the cuts absolutely
perfect. So I'm looking for advice on two possible solutions.

The first is the Makita fence. It's a single piece of metal that
formes the fence, with a c-shaped curve to accommodate the blade. Mine
seems to be a bit off, in that the faces of the two "fences" aren't co-
planar. So, while I could set one side to be dead-on perfect, the
other side will be slightly off. This was a problem when I tried to do
corner cuts on some corner trim. I might be able to bend them
slightly, but that won't be very precise. Would it be worth buying a
replacement part? Or...

... I might try to build my own fence for my saw. And if i'm going to
build one, it ought to have some things like stops, marks, and dead-on
calibration. A breif web searech ahsn't turned up many examples, so
could someone recommend a good fence design for this saw?

Thanks in advance.

Same problem with my Dewalt. I used a pane of glass larger than the
aluminum fence, with a few sheets of 80 grit sandpaper glued onto it.
Layed the fence on the glass, and began to lap. Then switched to 120.
Didn't take much time. Tom

On Mar 10, 1:30*pm, tom wrote:
On Mar 10, 10:40*am, BrianSiano wrote:



A recent project rquired some very accurate 45-degree cuts, and my
Makita sliding compound miter saw did the job, well, _reasonably_
enough, but it was next to impossible to get the cuts absolutely
perfect. So I'm looking for advice on two possible solutions.

The first is the Makita fence. It's a single piece of metal that
formes the fence, with a c-shaped curve to accommodate the blade. Mine
seems to be a bit off, in that the faces of the two "fences" aren't co-
planar. So, while I could set one side to be dead-on perfect, the
other side will be slightly off. This was a problem when I tried to do
corner cuts on some corner trim. I might be able to bend them
slightly, but that won't be very precise. Would it be worth buying a
replacement part? Or...

... I might try to build my own fence for my saw. And if i'm going to
build one, it ought to have some things like stops, marks, and dead-on
calibration. A breif web searech ahsn't turned up many examples, so
could someone recommend a good fence design for this saw?

Thanks in advance.

Same problem with my Dewalt. I used a pane of glass larger than the
aluminum fence, with a few sheets of 80 grit sandpaper glued onto it.
Layed the fence on the glass, and began to lap. Then switched to 120.
Didn't take much time. *Tom

Good flat glass, of course. Tom

I saw a fence system in the Peachtree catalog the other day. It
provided two options -- an 8 footer and a 16 footer -- for, you guessed
it, either a 4 foot or 8 foot extension on each site of the saw. Comes
with a tee slot for hanging a stop block.

BrianSiano wrote:
A recent project rquired some very accurate 45-degree cuts, and my
Makita sliding compound miter saw did the job, well, _reasonably_
enough, but it was next to impossible to get the cuts absolutely
perfect. So I'm looking for advice on two possible solutions.

The first is the Makita fence. It's a single piece of metal that
formes the fence, with a c-shaped curve to accommodate the blade. Mine
seems to be a bit off, in that the faces of the two "fences" aren't co-
planar. So, while I could set one side to be dead-on perfect, the
other side will be slightly off. This was a problem when I tried to do
corner cuts on some corner trim. I might be able to bend them
slightly, but that won't be very precise. Would it be worth buying a
replacement part? Or...

... I might try to build my own fence for my saw. And if i'm going to
build one, it ought to have some things like stops, marks, and dead-on
calibration. A breif web searech ahsn't turned up many examples, so
could someone recommend a good fence design for this saw?

Thanks in advance.