replying to Hitch, dbj wrote:
js_snow wrote:

By the way, I tied my own springs and did all my own webbing. Did all of
the work, in fact, except for a couple of tricky corner details on one
project, which trained me enough to tackle them on the next.


You tied your own metal springs to the base of the morris chair? HOW? A
picture would be fantastic! Thanks.
PS I realize that I'm on an archeological dig here. The comment I see is
from 10 years ago.

--

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 7:44:03 PM UTC-6, dbj wrote:

You tied your own metal springs to the base of the morris chair? HOW? A
picture would be fantastic! Thanks.
PS I realize that I'm on an archeological dig here. The comment I see is
from 10 years ago.

--

I don't know what/how the foundation (wood base/framing) is for the seat of a Morris chair, and I've never upholstered a true Morris chair, but I'm presently upholstering a somewhat similar type chair (outdoor/patio, metal frame).

As with this outdoor furniture, I suppose a Morris chair has either a wooden base or a jute webbing base, that the springs rest on, are attached to. The springs are, then, tied to each other and to the base (or to the perimeter framing the jute webbing is attached to). These patio chairs have a 3/4" (treated) ply base.

Surely you realize we are speaking of tying coil springs, not K-arc (zigzag or "S" shaped) springs. Additionally, attaching coil springs to jute webbing is done with Klinch-It fasteners (you'd need a Klinch-It tool).... It can be done with hog ringers, but is kind of hard to do so; and they can be tied/attached with wire or twine, also. On my my chairs, I used wire and 1/2" crown molding type staples to attach the coils to the ply.

I'll take pics later today.

Sonny

replying to Sonny , dbj wrote:
cedarsonny wrote:

I don't know what/how the foundation (wood base/framing) is for the seat
of
a Morris chair, and I've never upholstered a true Morris chair, but I'm
pr
esently upholstering a somewhat similar type chair (outdoor/patio, metal
fr
ame).
As with this outdoor furniture, I suppose a Morris chair has either a
woode
n base or a jute webbing base, that the springs rest on, are attached to.

The springs are, then, tied to each other and to the base (or to the
perim
eter framing the jute webbing is attached to). These patio chairs have a

3/4" (treated) ply base.
Surely you realize we are speaking of tying coil springs, not K-arc
(zigzag
or "S" shaped) springs. Additionally, attaching coil springs to jute
webb
ing is done with Klinch-It fasteners (you'd need a Klinch-It tool).... It
c
an be done with hog ringers, but is kind of hard to do so; and they can be

tied/attached with wire or twine, also. On my my chairs, I used wire and
1
/2" crown molding type staples to attach the coils to the ply.
I'll take pics later today.
Sonny



Yes, the frame is oak and it had jute webbing long ago. There's a minimum
of string holding the coils together, which are hefty. Heftier than other
outdoor furniture redo's that I've seen, but maybe the tying part is the
same principle. I think there was jute webbing on top and bottom of the
coils-no plywood. We have a hog ringer, according to my husband. Can't
wait to get going on these old beauties. I got 2 of them cheap at an
auction for a winter project.
--


--

On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 4:44:03 PM UTC-6, dbj wrote:

Yes, the frame is oak and it had jute webbing long ago. There's a minimum
of string holding the coils together, which are hefty. Heftier than other
outdoor furniture redo's that I've seen, but maybe the tying part is the
same principle. I think there was jute webbing on top and bottom of the
coils-no plywood. We have a hog ringer, according to my husband. Can't
wait to get going on these old beauties. I got 2 of them cheap at an
auction for a winter project.
--

There was probably jute webbing on the bottom, only. Burlap above the springs.

Stretch your jute webbing, as tight as you can, across the span of the frame, say front to back. Don't be affraid to stretch it really tight, as tight as you can. For left to right strands, weave the strands over & under the front to back strands; Again, stretch the Lt to Rt webbing as tight as you can and attach to the frame.

You're going to have lots of difficulty attaching the springs with hog ringers. You might want to use small paper clips (wires), hooked/looped through the jute webbing, over the spring coil, then back through the jute webbing. Twist tie them. Tie each spring, to the jute webbing, at four points. Your coil springs likely has a large coil at the top and bottom of the spring unit. The pics I'll show has a large coil at the top and a small coil at the bottom.

My pics show 2 methods of tying: The 8 point tying method (preferred) and the 4 point method (not the preferred method, but works in a pinch). Also note, in the pics, between the coils, the twine is tied to crossing strands of twine, part of the fully tied configuration, fully 8 point tying at all possible tying points. the first 4 pics on the opening page. The first pic shows pretty much what your seat should look like before covering your springs.

When tying your springs, tie them so that they are in a slightly compressed posture (slightly spring loaded). You don't want them to be fully extended and tied in that fully extended position.... but make sure they are not compressed too much, not compressed such that the seat contour looks disfigured when it is upholstered. Does this make sense?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/

Cover the top of the springs with burlap and attached the burlap edges to the seat frame. *If it were my chairs, I would next add a layer of 1/4" felt, just on the topside of the springs (not along the sides, if applicable), and hand stitch it (along the edges) to the burlap. Add cotton padding until you can't feel the individual springs, then a layer of fiberfill (quilt type batting). Then you are ready for your upholstery.

Tying the springs: Pic 2 shows one end of the twine attached to the ply/frame, then it is draped over the springs, then there is 2' length of twine beyond the edge of the spring unit. You'll need about 2 extra feet of twine for all the knots you tie, so that, after tying all the knots, you'll have a tag of twine for attaching to the other side of the wood/seat frame.

Any questions? Concerns?

Sonny

"dbj" wrote in message
roups.com
replying to Sonny , dbj wrote:
cedarsonny wrote:

I don't know what/how the foundation (wood base/framing) is for the
seat of a Morris chair, and I've never upholstered a true Morris
chair, but I'm pr esently upholstering a somewhat similar type chair
(outdoor/patio, metal fr ame).
As with this outdoor furniture, I suppose a Morris chair has either a
woode n base or a jute webbing base, that the springs rest on, are
attached to.

The springs are, then, tied to each other and to the base (or to the
perim eter framing the jute webbing is attached to). These patio
chairs have a

3/4" (treated) ply base.
Surely you realize we are speaking of tying coil springs, not K-arc
(zigzag or "S" shaped) springs. Additionally, attaching coil springs
to jute webb ing is done with Klinch-It fasteners (you'd need a
Klinch-It tool).... It c an be done with hog ringers, but is kind of
hard to do so; and they can be

tied/attached with wire or twine, also. On my my chairs, I used wire
and 1 /2" crown molding type staples to attach the coils to the ply.
I'll take pics later today.
Sonny



Yes, the frame is oak and it had jute webbing long ago. There's a
minimum
of string holding the coils together, which are hefty. Heftier than
other
outdoor furniture redo's that I've seen, but maybe the tying part is the
same principle. I think there was jute webbing on top and bottom of the
coils-no plywood. We have a hog ringer, according to my husband. Can't
wait to get going on these old beauties. I got 2 of them cheap at an
auction for a winter project.
--

Sonny admonished you to stretch the jute webbing tightly. The easiest way
to do that is with stretching pliers...they have jaws about the width of
the jute and a projection that serves a fulcrum to give leverage. Pix...
https://www.google.com/search?client...og&sa=N&tab=wi

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 6:21:12 AM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:
-

Sonny admonished you to stretch the jute webbing tightly. The easiest way
to do that is with stretching pliers...they have jaws about the width of
the jute and a projection that serves a fulcrum to give leverage. Pix...
https://www.google.com/search?client...og&sa=N&tab=wi


I had assumed she didn't have a dedicated stretching tool. The gooseneck tool has a rubber padding, to prevent wood damage/marring. I use the gooseneck most often. http://www.perfectfit.com/15362/1545...Stretcher.html

She also has a husband. He can pull it plenty tight enough, manually, that way. **It's probably time she put him to work, anyway! : )

Sonny

dbj, one thing I forgot to comment on:

I suppose your cushion's spring unit is intact, in that, it has an edge wire perimeter around the springs. I suppose your whole seat unit is not like the chair pic (first pic) on my Flickr page. That chair does not have an edge wire perimeter around the springs. The "plywood" pics have an edge wire around the springs.

Make sure your edge wiring is in good shape, to hold the individual springs securely and for good tying. I suppose your whole spring unit is a squarish or rectangle box configuration, to fit your Morris chair seat shape. When tying things together, make sure you don't distort the "box" or "rectangle" form. Keep all angles and corners squared up. This should apply to your backrest cushion, also, if your backrest cushion has coil springs, has coil springs "wrapped" with an edge wire, also.

Sonny

Continuing with the upholstering procedu

My box seat spring unit has sides.... or front, back and side faces. These faces don't need to be padded or padded as much as the top of the seat. I would think your seat would be padded similarly as I've padded this outdoor seating.

Referring to the additional pics:
The spring/seat unit is covered with (synthetic, white) burlap. This burlap layer doesn't need to be tight, just snuggly fitted and attached/stapled in place.
The very top surface of the seat is padded with 2 layers of cotton, which barely overlaps the edge wire. The edge wire needs to be padded, so that it isn't felt, when sitting on the seat. A third layer of cotton is applied, not only on the top surface, but it also droops down the sides, covering the sides/faces. You might prefer 4 layers of cotton padding, for your higher-end Morris chairs. As mention before, for a good quality chair, I wouldn't skimp on the interior paddings and a layer of 1/4" felt, on top of the burlap, prior to the cotton, would be my choice, if they were my Morris chairs.

Next pic shows a layer of fiberfill/batting, covering all the previous padding. The edges of the fiberfill are attached to the edges of the ply base. The seat is ready for the upholstery fabric.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/

Sonny