Hey all,

A bunch of questions

I'm working on a bow-arm morris chair and I'm debating on how to best
bend the arms.

Dimensions are roughly 1-1/8 x 5 x 36" with about 3" of bend on maybe a
60"radius. Quarter sawn wht oak.

I've done some steam bending, but have been unable to locate air dried
stock for this project. Previous attempts to steam bend kiln dried
stock have been inconsistant at best.

So....

I'm considering glue-lam and vac bagging.

Are the ~$300 1 cfm vac bag systems capable of clamping up 9 layers of
1/8" wht oak for this sort of form?

http://www.tapeease.com/vacuum_bags.htm
http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog...roducts_id=248
http://www.vacupress.com/products2.htm#compact100

Or do I need to spend a bundle for a 3+ cfm system or look into making
my own?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I apologize if this has been asked
before, I found a few things but nothing specifically about the
capability of the ~ 1cfm ~$300 systems.

Good Day

I'm no expert, but I did build a vacuum press from the joewoodworker.com
kit. By the way it is a great kit and I like it a lot, but it isn't the
only solution. Whether a specific vacuum press will do it isn't related
to how much you spend or how many CFM your pump can handle. Depending
on your pump they can all put a huge amount of pressure on your laminate
if you have it set up correctly.

CFM has only to do with how fast you evacuate the bag. As long as you
use a long open time glue you'll be fine. You just need to test your
setup ahead of time. Make sure your cauls are ready, stack your
laminates (without glue), tape them, put them in the bag and pull it
down. Note the time it takes and check that with your glue's open time.
Remember you'll be spreading glue on all those laminate surfaces. Try
to have a non-stick surface like wax paper or plastic laminate facing
each side so you don't stick your work to your cauls.

In my opinion the major concern is making sure you have a stout enough
bag. I bought the 30 mil vinyl from joewoodworker.com. In some cases
it might be considered to be almost too heavy. You may be able to find
16 mil and 20 mil vinyl at your local fabric store for $3.99 to $5.49
per yard (54" wide). We did here in Atlanta. Many commercial bags are
20 mil. They do sell pre-made bags now on joewoodworker.com.

If you just get a pump, bag, hose and fittings you can make a quick
vacuum press system for way cheaper than $300. Inexpensive vacuum pumps
are not too hard to find.

Paul Proffitt

CALA Workshop wrote:
Hey all,

A bunch of questions

I'm working on a bow-arm morris chair and I'm debating on how to best
bend the arms.

Dimensions are roughly 1-1/8 x 5 x 36" with about 3" of bend on maybe a
60"radius. Quarter sawn wht oak.

I've done some steam bending, but have been unable to locate air dried
stock for this project. Previous attempts to steam bend kiln dried
stock have been inconsistant at best.

So....

I'm considering glue-lam and vac bagging.

Are the ~$300 1 cfm vac bag systems capable of clamping up 9 layers of
1/8" wht oak for this sort of form?

http://www.tapeease.com/vacuum_bags.htm
http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog...roducts_id=248
http://www.vacupress.com/products2.htm#compact100

Or do I need to spend a bundle for a 3+ cfm system or look into making
my own?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I apologize if this has been asked
before, I found a few things but nothing specifically about the
capability of the ~ 1cfm ~$300 systems.

Good Day

IMHO - I'd think trying to vac bag a laminate glue up would be overkill and
a real pain. You have to build a form in either case to match the shape
you're looking for. Here's how I've done some laminate glue ups for rocking
chair parts (backs and rockers).

Build a form that matches your curve out of MDF (several layers of 3/4
together). I then glued laminate along the curve (to prevent glue from
sticking to the form later) and screwed flat metal brackets along the edge
to provide a side support to keep the laminated pieces from slipping in the
form. Cut a large number of holes through your form for clamps. Then using
some scrap pieces of wood I did a glue up on the form. This glued up piece
(when dry) then serves as my clamping caul to go on top of the good wood
that I'm shaping.
I found this to be sufficient for the work I was doing and with a good glue,
had very little discernible spring back when it was unclamped. It was
actually very easy to do with great results.

You might want to check into some of the Woodworks episodes where David
Marks does some laminate glue ups. He does much the same thing as this
except he creates a top and bottom to his forms that mate together when
clamped around the laminates. Either way works pretty well.

My 2 cents

Gary in KC


"CALA Workshop" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hey all,

A bunch of questions

I'm working on a bow-arm morris chair and I'm debating on how to best
bend the arms.

Dimensions are roughly 1-1/8 x 5 x 36" with about 3" of bend on maybe a
60"radius. Quarter sawn wht oak.

I've done some steam bending, but have been unable to locate air dried
stock for this project. Previous attempts to steam bend kiln dried
stock have been inconsistant at best.

So....

I'm considering glue-lam and vac bagging.

Are the ~$300 1 cfm vac bag systems capable of clamping up 9 layers of
1/8" wht oak for this sort of form?

http://www.tapeease.com/vacuum_bags.htm
http://www.joewoodworker.com/catalog...roducts_id=248
http://www.vacupress.com/products2.htm#compact100

Or do I need to spend a bundle for a 3+ cfm system or look into making
my own?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I apologize if this has been asked
before, I found a few things but nothing specifically about the
capability of the ~ 1cfm ~$300 systems.

Good Day

On 20 Jul 2005 18:15:18 -0700, "CALA Workshop" wrote:

I've done some steam bending, but have been unable to locate air dried
stock for this project.

You want it green, not even air-dried. So it's really the wrong time of
the year anyway. Split is always better than sawn, even if you have to
saw it smooth after bending.

I use mainly locally-felled timber, mainly oak. As we're running short
of huge forests here in England, the trees I have are often small and
somewhat misshapen. I can easily collect "knees", logs that have grown
with a curve to them (they needn't even have reaction wood problems). I
prefer to make Craftsman seat backs, arms etc. by bandsawing these
curved baulks rather than steaming.