http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html
--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html

Wow! Just Wow...

On 1/12/2015 1:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html


Wow is right.

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 2:29:30 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html

Wow! Just Wow...

Wow is right. That's one helluva "Jerry" rig.

Sonny

On Mon, 12 Jan 2015 14:26:40 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html

Bet you he still does not have enough clamps.

On 01/12/2015 12:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html

I don't think the slab in my gar^H^H^Hshop could withstand the load!


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On Mon, 12 Jan 2015 16:52:11 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Mon, 12 Jan 2015 14:26:40 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html

Bet you he still does not have enough clamps.

He's got a few (see slides 21 and 22) but you're right, probably still
not enough. ;-)

On 1/12/2015 3:39 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 01/12/2015 12:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html

I don't think the slab in my gar^H^H^Hshop could withstand the load!

I don't think the side of my head could withstand the slap from SWMBO!!!

In article , woodchucker
wrote:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html

That's a beautiful thing.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On 1/12/2015 9:40 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , woodchucker
wrote:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...843480308.html

That's a beautiful thing.


Yes, but for the same money you can buy at least 60 Craftsman table top
saws. Or make a down payment on the Festool model.

On Mon, 12 Jan 2015 14:26:40 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

link

Nice saw. I've never seen one. Satifies the soul somehow to see
something old restored. I recently looked at a nice lathe restoration
on southbend's site.

The reason for the two blades is:
A) to get around the deficiency in blade design at the time*
B) longer time between blade changes
C) something else
D) none of the above

I choose A with a little of B.

I provided D to allow for those that insist on the contrary.

*new blades work fine for either cut

On 1/13/15 10:06 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 12 Jan 2015 14:26:40 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

link

Nice saw. I've never seen one. Satifies the soul somehow to see
something old restored. I recently looked at a nice lathe restoration
on southbend's site.

The reason for the two blades is:
A) to get around the deficiency in blade design at the time*
B) longer time between blade changes
C) something else
D) none of the above

I choose A with a little of B.

I provided D to allow for those that insist on the contrary.


One for rip, one for crosscut.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/13/2015 10:06 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 12 Jan 2015 14:26:40 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

link

Nice saw. I've never seen one. Satifies the soul somehow to see
something old restored. I recently looked at a nice lathe restoration
on southbend's site.

The reason for the two blades is:
A) to get around the deficiency in blade design at the time*
B) longer time between blade changes
C) something else
D) none of the above

I choose A with a little of B.

I provided D to allow for those that insist on the contrary.

*new blades work fine for either cut


I believe A and B would be correct. Way back when, 1944, I don't
believe that there were blades that could handle all cutting operations
as well as today's modern blades. Not having to swap out a rip and
cross cut blade would have been a big time saver in an industrial
environment where time is money.

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 08:06:00 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:

*new blades work fine for either cut

Maybe, if you've got "lots* of horsepower. A while back I bought a Freud
Fusion blade which makes glass smooth crosscuts -as good as the vaunted
Woodworker according to those who've tried both. But it's got too many
teeth for ripping on my contractor style saw - it bogs down. I now go
back to my trusty thin kerf rip blade for ripping.

On 1/13/2015 11:06 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Mon, 12 Jan 2015 14:26:40 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

link

Nice saw. I've never seen one. Satifies the soul somehow to see
something old restored. I recently looked at a nice lathe restoration
on southbend's site.

The reason for the two blades is:
A) to get around the deficiency in blade design at the time*
B) longer time between blade changes
C) something else
D) none of the above

I choose A with a little of B.

I provided D to allow for those that insist on the contrary.

*new blades work fine for either cut



Yes and no..
the combo blade works well at ripping and I do use it for most rips, but
if you have to rip a lot of wood, I put a rip blade on.
it's faster and more efficient.


--
Jeff

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 18:09:46 +0000 (UTC)
Larry Blanchard wrote:

Maybe, if you've got "lots* of horsepower. A while back I bought a
Freud Fusion blade which makes glass smooth crosscuts -as good as the
vaunted Woodworker according to those who've tried both. But it's
got too many teeth for ripping on my contractor style saw - it bogs
down. I now go back to my trusty thin kerf rip blade for ripping.

You're saying that your saw lacked power to push the blade. This oliver
saw has two large motors. So I still think as I do about the design
of the oliver.

On 01/13/2015 10:54 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2015 10:06 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
....

Nice saw. I've never seen one. Satifies the soul somehow to see
something old restored. I recently looked at a nice lathe restoration
on southbend's site.

The reason for the two blades is:
A) to get around the deficiency in blade design at the time*
B) longer time between blade changes
C) something else
D) none of the above

I choose A with a little of B.
....

I believe A and B would be correct. ...

+1

--

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message ...

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 08:06:00 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:

*new blades work fine for either cut

Maybe, if you've got "lots* of horsepower. A while back I bought a Freud
Fusion blade which makes glass smooth crosscuts -as good as the vaunted
Woodworker according to those who've tried both. But it's got too many
teeth for ripping on my contractor style saw - it bogs down. I now go
back to my trusty thin kerf rip blade for ripping.

Yup... sometimes HP is the answer. That really hit home when I helped my
father with a project and had to rip a scribed 2X4 on his Shopsmith with a
thin kerf blade. OMG!!! Beyond a crawl feed rate the saw wanted to stall. I
didn't realize how spoiled I'd become with my 3 HP cabinet saw! With a WWII
blade it is more than OK but with a Freud rip blade it really shines. The
Shopsmith... for rare use I guess it would be OK.

John

On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 13:19:37 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

Yes and no..
the combo blade works well at ripping and I do use it for most rips,
but if you have to rip a lot of wood, I put a rip blade on.
it's faster and more efficient.

How do you like how how the rip does cross-cuts?

On 1/13/2015 10:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 13:19:37 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

Yes and no..
the combo blade works well at ripping and I do use it for most rips,
but if you have to rip a lot of wood, I put a rip blade on.
it's faster and more efficient.

How do you like how how the rip does cross-cuts?



It sucks! It will cut the wood but in all seriousness, you get a ton of
tear out.

On 1/14/15 8:20 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/13/2015 10:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 13:19:37 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

Yes and no..
the combo blade works well at ripping and I do use it for most rips,
but if you have to rip a lot of wood, I put a rip blade on.
it's faster and more efficient.

How do you like how how the rip does cross-cuts?



It sucks! It will cut the wood but in all seriousness, you get a ton of
tear out.

Yes, a completely different tooth design.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/13/2015 11:05 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Tue, 13 Jan 2015 13:19:37 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

Yes and no..
the combo blade works well at ripping and I do use it for most rips,
but if you have to rip a lot of wood, I put a rip blade on.
it's faster and more efficient.

How do you like how how the rip does cross-cuts?




I never use the rips for cross cuts. it would be a splintery mess.

--
Jeff

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 12:39:34 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

I never use the rips for cross cuts. it would be a splintery mess.

What blades do you use?

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 08:20:17 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

It sucks! It will cut the wood but in all seriousness, you get a ton
of tear out.

WHat blades do you use?

On 1/14/2015 1:03 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 12:39:34 -0500
woodchucker wrote:

I never use the rips for cross cuts. it would be a splintery mess.

What blades do you use?



For good grade wood, my Forrest WWII

For stuff that I am less inclined to use a quality blade for like OSB,
exterior ply, particle board, or wood from disassembled furniture or
uses (nails possible) I use one of my crappy combos, a Delta blade, a
Crapsman blade (better than the delta), or a freud (not crappy but not a
WWII) ..

--
Jeff

On 1/14/2015 12:04 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 08:20:17 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

It sucks! It will cut the wood but in all seriousness, you get a ton
of tear out.

WHat blades do you use?







For building furniture I have only used a Forrest WWII 40 tooth regular
kerf blade. I have used this blade for the last 15 years, actually I
have 3 of these. One has a flat grind for cutting flat bottom groves
for drawer bottoms when using 1/4" plywood.
I did buy a Systematic rip blade about 17 years ago and even on an under
powered Craftsman chose to use a Systematic Combo blade for all cutting.
I switched to a cabinet saw in 1999 and have used nothing but the
Forrest WWII blades since. I do use a Forrest DadoKing for cutting dado's.

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:09:38 -0500
woodchucker wrote:


For good grade wood, my Forrest WWII

For stuff that I am less inclined to use a quality blade for like
OSB, exterior ply, particle board, or wood from disassembled
furniture or uses (nails possible) I use one of my crappy combos, a
Delta blade, a Crapsman blade (better than the delta), or a freud
(not crappy but not a WWII) ..

I have a new-old-stock freud that cross cuts and rips fine.
I find that keeping the blade very clean makes a big diff
I still need to look at the forrest blades.

I don't cut wood with metal in it on the tablesaw. I have a handheld
detector to make sure. If I still doubtful I get out the skilsaw.

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 13:44:37 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

For building furniture I have only used a Forrest WWII 40 tooth
regular kerf blade. I have used this blade for the last 15 years,
actually I have 3 of these. One has a flat grind for cutting flat
bottom groves for drawer bottoms when using 1/4" plywood.
I did buy a Systematic rip blade about 17 years ago and even on an
under powered Craftsman chose to use a Systematic Combo blade for all
cutting. I switched to a cabinet saw in 1999 and have used nothing
but the Forrest WWII blades since. I do use a Forrest DadoKing for
cutting dado's.

I forgot you mentioned these before and it's on my list.

Why does the list never grow shorter

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 3:38:45 PM UTC-6, Electric Comet wrote:

Why does the list never grow shorter

Because we keep using longer and longer boards. Longer boards, longer pencils, longer outfeed tables, longer tape measures... the list goes on. At our advanced age, our once youthful "longer" attributes don't matter, anymore, so we have to create new ones, substitutes to compensate.

Sonny

On 1/14/2015 4:35 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 14:09:38 -0500
woodchucker wrote:


For good grade wood, my Forrest WWII

For stuff that I am less inclined to use a quality blade for like
OSB, exterior ply, particle board, or wood from disassembled
furniture or uses (nails possible) I use one of my crappy combos, a
Delta blade, a Crapsman blade (better than the delta), or a freud
(not crappy but not a WWII) ..

I have a new-old-stock freud that cross cuts and rips fine.
I find that keeping the blade very clean makes a big diff
I still need to look at the forrest blades.

I don't cut wood with metal in it on the tablesaw. I have a handheld
detector to make sure. If I still doubtful I get out the skilsaw.





I have a metal detector too. But sometimes you won't catch very small
stuff., or you choose to not use the detector.



--
Jeff

On 1/14/2015 3:36 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 13:44:37 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

For building furniture I have only used a Forrest WWII 40 tooth
regular kerf blade. I have used this blade for the last 15 years,
actually I have 3 of these. One has a flat grind for cutting flat
bottom groves for drawer bottoms when using 1/4" plywood.
I did buy a Systematic rip blade about 17 years ago and even on an
under powered Craftsman chose to use a Systematic Combo blade for all
cutting. I switched to a cabinet saw in 1999 and have used nothing
but the Forrest WWII blades since. I do use a Forrest DadoKing for
cutting dado's.

I forgot you mentioned these before and it's on my list.

Why does the list never grow shorter



LOL, My list is actually growing shorter these days, but then again I
have 37 years worth of collecting.. ;~)

On 1/14/2015 3:36 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 13:44:37 -0600
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

For building furniture I have only used a Forrest WWII 40 tooth
regular kerf blade. I have used this blade for the last 15 years,
actually I have 3 of these. One has a flat grind for cutting flat
bottom groves for drawer bottoms when using 1/4" plywood.
I did buy a Systematic rip blade about 17 years ago and even on an
under powered Craftsman chose to use a Systematic Combo blade for all
cutting. I switched to a cabinet saw in 1999 and have used nothing
but the Forrest WWII blades since. I do use a Forrest DadoKing for
cutting dado's.

I forgot you mentioned these before and it's on my list.

Why does the list never grow shorter

Don't forget the hand saws :

Rip saw has little or no kerf other than the blade. The teeth are
in-line. They can cut down the lines of grain - almost like a wedge.

Cross-cut has alternate teeth bent right or left - back and forth
and it cuts a wider kerf to prevent jamming of the blade by end grain.

I'm sure the large rotaries are very close in design.

Martin

On Wed, 14 Jan 2015 13:51:35 -0800 (PST)
Sonny wrote:

On Wednesday, January 14, 2015 at 3:38:45 PM UTC-6, Electric Comet
wrote:

Why does the list never grow shorter

Because we keep using longer and longer boards. Longer boards,
longer pencils, longer outfeed tables, longer tape measures... the
list goes on. At our advanced age, our once youthful "longer"
attributes don't matter, anymore, so we have to create new ones,
substitutes to compensate.

thought it was just cuz I have too many things on it and not getting
them done faster than new ones go on it

My plan is to stop adding them, but to do this I will have to
add this to the list