I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

--

janice wrote:

I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

Regular pine boards will be fine. Just paint them on all sides and edges
before you put them up.

--

-Mike-

I would use a p.t. pre-primed trim board.
They sell those, and they are very good and already primed.
They have a treatment that avoid mildew, wrot, and fungus growth.
Coming in a 2x6, 1x6 1x4 etc. 2x4 on and on....It is wise to pre-prime ends
and cuts prior to installation.
john
I use the same treated boards in door jambs Here it is called Aura
Last....
(or something like that)

"janice" wrote in message
roups.com...

I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

--

On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.

Martin

On 11/18/2014 11:08 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.

Martin

She really needs to find out why it rotted and correct it and be sure
the new wood is not affected. . There are wood buildings 250 years old
with protected wood still in good condition This was not properly built
or maintained if it rotted out in 14 years.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 23:35:15 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 11/18/2014 11:08 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.

Martin

She really needs to find out why it rotted and correct it and be sure
the new wood is not affected. . There are wood buildings 250 years old
with protected wood still in good condition This was not properly built
or maintained if it rotted out in 14 years.

By "manufactured home" are we talking a trailer, a double-wide, a
prefab like a Viceroy, or what??
I know a lot of the "trailer" type "manufactured homes" are JUNK.

There are a lot (well quite a few anyway) of wooden buildings that
have never had any paint or chemical protection that have lasted close
to 100 years.

On 11/18/14, 10:35 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 11/18/2014 11:08 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.

Martin

She really needs to find out why it rotted and correct it and be sure
the new wood is not affected. . There are wood buildings 250 years old
with protected wood still in good condition This was not properly built
or maintained if it rotted out in 14 years.

I agree.
Use *any* material but make sure you have a drip edge that extends into
the gutters.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/18/2014 10:35 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 11/18/2014 11:08 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:
On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.

Martin

She really needs to find out why it rotted and correct it and be sure
the new wood is not affected. . There are wood buildings 250 years old
with protected wood still in good condition This was not properly built
or maintained if it rotted out in 14 years.
The old buildings were build out of oak and chestnut and other
hardwoods. They were clearing land and any tree was available. Some
last the longest. Oaks are good.

Cypress has oils that keeps some bugs and rot out. Used in the deep
south in place of Redwood of the west. Better than Cedar for most things.

Martin

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 22:08:54 -0600, Martin Eastburn
wrote:

On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

How many feet ? Can you use Cypress or or like ? cost is higher, but
the wood lasts longer than pine. Just the cost.

Martin
I was going to say cedar, but painting it can be a bit fussy -
depending on the cedar.

On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?



Forget wood, go with fiber cement fascia.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 11/18/2014 7:44 PM, janice wrote:
I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?

Forget wood, go with fiber cement fascia.

I did that for the weather surface but had it backed up with pine so there
was a continuous nailing surface for the vented fiber cement soffit...
perhaps overkill but I was straightening out the results of 50 years of
settling/sagging so I had nice flat and true surfaces.

Solid PVC could be another option.

"John Grossbohlin" wrote \

Solid PVC could be another option.
*************
I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out of
the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it works
great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a place the
window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North Carolina frog
strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more inches per hour. No
gutter in a valley can contain all of that.

-- Jim in NC


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On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:


"John Grossbohlin" wrote \

Solid PVC could be another option.
*************
I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it
works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.

Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these
days is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available in
pvc for other trim elements.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 11/20/14, 5:51 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:


"John Grossbohlin" wrote \

Solid PVC could be another option.
*************
I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it
works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.

Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these
days is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available in
pvc for other trim elements.


I've used a ton of the stuff. It has its pros an cons, mostly pros.
The ends split as bad as wood and the "sawdust" is so clingy from static
that it's a real PITA to clean up.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

On 11/19/2014 10:24 PM, Morgans wrote:


"John Grossbohlin" wrote \

Solid PVC could be another option.
*************
I am really starting to like that stuff for places you can not get out
of the weather. I have replaced several door frames with it now, and it
works great. I recently make a new window frame out of the stuff, in a
place the window gets splashed whenever we get one of those North
Carolina frog strangler rains where it rains at the rate of 4 or more
inches per hour. No gutter in a valley can contain all of that.

Almost all paint grade spec'ed shoe molding I use in wet areas these days
is pvc; and there are an increasing number of profiles available in pvc for
other trim elements.

I've got a project coming up to retrim the interior of my house as part of a
room by room gut job. I'm going to run my own moldings/casings and the trim
in the bathroom, kitchen sink, and mudroom areas will be PVC... I've got a 3
HP Shaper and a Molding machine and will use both depending upon the
specific profile. I figure if I run the PVC while set up to do the wood
(probably poplar) that it will take no special effort but will give me a
good looking product for longer in the areas that get wet.

I own a 2000 manufactured home. I need to replace the rotting fascia
boards. What is the best wood to use?
janice

I have a '95 and 95% of my facia is fine. I have 2-3 spots trying to
start rotting. I plan to either replace or repair in spring depending
on closer evalution and condition then. I am hoping the dark spots I
see are nothing more than surface crud I can clean.

I'm not certain what type of material mine are made of but I suspect
some type of pressed treated material from what I can see. I'll
appreciate the suggestions here myself.

`Casper