On 5/20/2014 12:26 AM, OFWW wrote:
A sample of what I am speaking of.

http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt

Also sold at harbor freight, Woodcraft, WWGraingers and many
other places.

Graingers has a nice explanation of the belts, if it were to
break just replace a link of two.

Adjust belt after one hour of normal work loads to compensate for
normal belt stretch.

Ok. Why the post

Belts eat up horsepower, consume electricity when too tight and
can cause premature motor failure. They also can and do add to
vibrations noise, etc.

Too large a belt, for instance a "B" belt on "A" pulleys add a
lot of stress due to its rigidity and strength properties. Use
one in a pinch if need be but replace it quickly. Belts eat up
motor pulleys and if your motor pulley has a groove on it that
your fingernail can sense then the pulley is worn and now eating
up your belts faster.

For energies sake never over tighten your belt. Check the using
with an amp meter after installing a belt to be sure it won't
destroy your motor by over amping.

Always use belts with "teeth" when you have a small diameter
motor pulley. It will reduce operating costs and extend your belt
life and pulley life as well. It is far easier for those to wrap
around the pulley when starting and then when running.

Now, here is the reason for the post. The belt shown in the link
will operate better than a belt with "teeth", run smoother
because it is designed to wrap around pulleys. It is smoother,
less vibration, less costs to operate and just plain easier on
your equipment.

I tested it out on my band saw which was having problems throwing
out a key on the motor pulley. It was due to two things, one the
belt had no teeth, and it was a pot metal pulley. A cast iron
pulley was many times the cost of this and I had replaced the
stupid pot metal pulley with a like pulley at least 1/6th the
cost of a decent pulley. I then bought a belt from HF and made
the adjustments when installing, and WOW, what a difference in
noise and vibration. It does even better on table saws in
reducing noise and vibration. It isn't the cheapest thing out
there but it does do what they say.

Nice thing is, one length can be saved for the longest belt you
need, and then shortened at any time to use on something else. So
it reduces shop costs overall, although belts are the least of
our worries.

BTW, these same belts can be used on your air filtration system
if they use belts and you will notice a reduction in vibration
noise.

Grainger and maybe some drive belt/bearing house has good stock
in all widths needed.

Just wanted to share a tip and hopefully return the favor you
guys do in sharing your idea's.

I worked in HVAC and am retired, and know the importance of belts
and maintenance on equipment, if that adds any weight to the
post.


You might also want to consider this belt from HF. Very reasonably
priced and I have one on my relatively new DP. One belt was enough to
replace both belts in the DP. I was very surprised that this particular
belt was also a well know brand belt manufacturer. The packaging
indicated the manufacturer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...lt?q=link+belt

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Equpment Drive belts. A tip, something to keep in mind.
Date: Tue, 20 May 2014 08:22:15 -0500
From: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References:

On 5/20/2014 12:26 AM, OFWW wrote:
A sample of what I am speaking of.

http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt

Also sold at harbor freight, Woodcraft, WWGraingers and many
other places.

Graingers has a nice explanation of the belts, if it were to
break just replace a link of two.

Adjust belt after one hour of normal work loads to compensate for
normal belt stretch.

Ok. Why the post

Belts eat up horsepower, consume electricity when too tight and
can cause premature motor failure. They also can and do add to
vibrations noise, etc.

Too large a belt, for instance a "B" belt on "A" pulleys add a
lot of stress due to its rigidity and strength properties. Use
one in a pinch if need be but replace it quickly. Belts eat up
motor pulleys and if your motor pulley has a groove on it that
your fingernail can sense then the pulley is worn and now eating
up your belts faster.

For energies sake never over tighten your belt. Check the using
with an amp meter after installing a belt to be sure it won't
destroy your motor by over amping.

Always use belts with "teeth" when you have a small diameter
motor pulley. It will reduce operating costs and extend your belt
life and pulley life as well. It is far easier for those to wrap
around the pulley when starting and then when running.

Now, here is the reason for the post. The belt shown in the link
will operate better than a belt with "teeth", run smoother
because it is designed to wrap around pulleys. It is smoother,
less vibration, less costs to operate and just plain easier on
your equipment.

I tested it out on my band saw which was having problems throwing
out a key on the motor pulley. It was due to two things, one the
belt had no teeth, and it was a pot metal pulley. A cast iron
pulley was many times the cost of this and I had replaced the
stupid pot metal pulley with a like pulley at least 1/6th the
cost of a decent pulley. I then bought a belt from HF and made
the adjustments when installing, and WOW, what a difference in
noise and vibration. It does even better on table saws in
reducing noise and vibration. It isn't the cheapest thing out
there but it does do what they say.

Nice thing is, one length can be saved for the longest belt you
need, and then shortened at any time to use on something else. So
it reduces shop costs overall, although belts are the least of
our worries.

BTW, these same belts can be used on your air filtration system
if they use belts and you will notice a reduction in vibration
noise.

Grainger and maybe some drive belt/bearing house has good stock
in all widths needed.

Just wanted to share a tip and hopefully return the favor you
guys do in sharing your idea's.

I worked in HVAC and am retired, and know the importance of belts
and maintenance on equipment, if that adds any weight to the
post.


You might also want to consider this belt from HF. Very reasonably
priced and I have one on my relatively new DP. One belt was enough to
replace both belts in the DP. I was very surprised that this particular
belt was also a well know brand belt manufacturer. The packaging
indicated the manufacturer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...lt?q=link+belt


Been using link belts for a few years. It solved a bad belt situation on
my DP ... But I went back to regular belts for the dp as the width was
not allowing me to get to a couple of speeds where the belt would be
next to each other. But all my machines now have link belts.
It made a huge difference.

On 5/20/2014 9:11 AM, woodchucker wrote:


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Equpment Drive belts. A tip, something to keep in mind.
Date: Tue, 20 May 2014 08:22:15 -0500
From: Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
References:

On 5/20/2014 12:26 AM, OFWW wrote:
A sample of what I am speaking of.

http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt

Also sold at harbor freight, Woodcraft, WWGraingers and many
other places.

Graingers has a nice explanation of the belts, if it were to
break just replace a link of two.

Adjust belt after one hour of normal work loads to compensate for
normal belt stretch.

Ok. Why the post

Belts eat up horsepower, consume electricity when too tight and
can cause premature motor failure. They also can and do add to
vibrations noise, etc.

Too large a belt, for instance a "B" belt on "A" pulleys add a
lot of stress due to its rigidity and strength properties. Use
one in a pinch if need be but replace it quickly. Belts eat up
motor pulleys and if your motor pulley has a groove on it that
your fingernail can sense then the pulley is worn and now eating
up your belts faster.

For energies sake never over tighten your belt. Check the using
with an amp meter after installing a belt to be sure it won't
destroy your motor by over amping.

Always use belts with "teeth" when you have a small diameter
motor pulley. It will reduce operating costs and extend your belt
life and pulley life as well. It is far easier for those to wrap
around the pulley when starting and then when running.

Now, here is the reason for the post. The belt shown in the link
will operate better than a belt with "teeth", run smoother
because it is designed to wrap around pulleys. It is smoother,
less vibration, less costs to operate and just plain easier on
your equipment.

I tested it out on my band saw which was having problems throwing
out a key on the motor pulley. It was due to two things, one the
belt had no teeth, and it was a pot metal pulley. A cast iron
pulley was many times the cost of this and I had replaced the
stupid pot metal pulley with a like pulley at least 1/6th the
cost of a decent pulley. I then bought a belt from HF and made
the adjustments when installing, and WOW, what a difference in
noise and vibration. It does even better on table saws in
reducing noise and vibration. It isn't the cheapest thing out
there but it does do what they say.

Nice thing is, one length can be saved for the longest belt you
need, and then shortened at any time to use on something else. So
it reduces shop costs overall, although belts are the least of
our worries.

BTW, these same belts can be used on your air filtration system
if they use belts and you will notice a reduction in vibration
noise.

Grainger and maybe some drive belt/bearing house has good stock
in all widths needed.

Just wanted to share a tip and hopefully return the favor you
guys do in sharing your idea's.

I worked in HVAC and am retired, and know the importance of belts
and maintenance on equipment, if that adds any weight to the
post.


You might also want to consider this belt from HF. Very reasonably
priced and I have one on my relatively new DP. One belt was enough to
replace both belts in the DP. I was very surprised that this particular
belt was also a well know brand belt manufacturer. The packaging
indicated the manufacturer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...lt?q=link+belt


Been using link belts for a few years. It solved a bad belt situation on
my DP ... But I went back to regular belts for the dp as the width was
not allowing me to get to a couple of speeds where the belt would be
next to each other. But all my machines now have link belts.
It made a huge difference.



I noticed right away that there seems to be more noise from the link
belts, they are quite stiff, but the vibration and noise caused by
vibration is down 95%