I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the run
condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers and
frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project that
I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a switch
on this motor?

If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be aware of.

On 4/11/14, 7:57 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the
run condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers
and frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project
that I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a
switch on this motor?


It will either work or not. It will likely pop the breaker in the power
strip or even melt the switch. :-)

If you absolutely need something temporary until you get a replacement
safety switch, use a 20 amp light switch.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 4/11/2014 9:06 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 4/11/14, 7:57 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the
run condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers
and frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project
that I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a
switch on this motor?


It will either work or not. It will likely pop the breaker in the power
strip or even melt the switch. :-)

If you absolutely need something temporary until you get a replacement
safety switch, use a 20 amp light switch.



Agreed, the 20amp light switch is the way to go.

--
Jeff

On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 20:06:08 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 4/11/14, 7:57 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the
run condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers
and frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project
that I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a
switch on this motor?


It will either work or not. It will likely pop the breaker in the power
strip or even melt the switch. :-)

If you absolutely need something temporary until you get a replacement
safety switch, use a 20 amp light switch.

+1

Unless his power strip is a really expensive unit meant for much
heavier duty than the average bear, it'll either pop a breaker or
fail. It could be spectacular, though.

wrote

Unless his power strip is a really expensive unit meant for much
heavier duty than the average bear, it'll either pop a breaker or
fail. It could be spectacular, though.

I predict it will start to melt and then the "magic smoke" will leak out!
--
Jim in NC

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 4/11/2014 7:57 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the run
condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers and
frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project that
I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a switch
on this motor?


Not likely, most are only rated for 15 amp.



If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be aware of.

"Keith Nuttle" wrote:

I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the
run condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers
and frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project
that I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a
switch on this motor?

If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be
aware of.
--------------------------------------------------------
You're dealing with a 40+ year old motor that as my mother would say,
"doesn't owe me anything."

Jump in your handy-dandy go kart and go to the nearest Grainger and
buy a new motor.

You solve your problem SAFELY.

Lew

On 4/12/2014 12:33 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Keith Nuttle" wrote:

I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the
run condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers
and frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project
that I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a
switch on this motor?

If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be
aware of.
--------------------------------------------------------
You're dealing with a 40+ year old motor that as my mother would say,
"doesn't owe me anything."

Jump in your handy-dandy go kart and go to the nearest Grainger and
buy a new motor.

You solve your problem SAFELY.

Lew



Even though it is a 40 year old motor it has been maintained. It is not
cost effective to replace the over $200 motor because the $30 switch
failed. Do I see over 10 trillion dollars in 5 years

On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 21:33:12 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Keith Nuttle" wrote:

I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the
run condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers
and frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project
that I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a
switch on this motor?

If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be
aware of.
--------------------------------------------------------
You're dealing with a 40+ year old motor that as my mother would say,
"doesn't owe me anything."

Jump in your handy-dandy go kart and go to the nearest Grainger and
buy a new motor.

You solve your problem SAFELY.

Why would you replace a motor just because it's 40 years old. That
motor could be better than what you would replace it with today.
You're lucky your wife doesn't follow your advice. ;-)

On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 20:57:56 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the run
condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers and
frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project that
I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a switch
on this motor?

If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be aware of.


Are you sure that the switch is the problem ?
Why are you considering a power bar as a temporary switch ?
... too many unknown variables for me to attempt an answer ..
sorry.
John T.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 4/12/2014 6:36 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Apr 2014 20:57:56 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the run
condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers and
frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project that
I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a switch
on this motor?

If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be aware of.


Are you sure that the switch is the problem ?
Why are you considering a power bar as a temporary switch ?
... too many unknown variables for me to attempt an answer ..
sorry.
John T.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

OP: Yes I am sure the problem the switch. The rocker will not move.


I spending the morning looking for a replacement switch or part at
Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, and several other stores. Most had no idea of
what I was looking for and the problem of the required 20 amps to
starting the motor.

When I got home, I decided to take the switch apart and see what was
wrong. The rocker has two plungers, that normally run on to
brass/copper tracks in the base. One of the tracks shifted and was out
of place. This prevented the rocker from rocking. After some work, my
big fingers finally got the tracks in the proper place with the plungers
in the proper place. It seems to be working, I hope will last until I
get this project done.


By the way, Sears has improved their customer service and move their
parts store from Raleigh to Durham. Since I live about 20 miles east of
Raleigh for all practical purposes, Sears does not have a parts store in
the Raleigh area.

Keith Nuttle wrote:


OP: Yes I am sure the problem the switch. The rocker will not move.


I spending the morning looking for a replacement switch or part at
Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, and several other stores. Most had no idea
of what I was looking for and the problem of the required 20 amps to
starting the motor.

That makes no sense Keith. 20A switches are common hardware. Perhaps this
is a matter of how you were explaining your need to them? Or perhaps that
they do not have the exact replacement for your particular switch? In the
case of the latter, to replace it with standard hardware should be really
easy.


When I got home, I decided to take the switch apart and see what was
wrong. The rocker has two plungers, that normally run on to
brass/copper tracks in the base. One of the tracks shifted and was
out of place. This prevented the rocker from rocking. After some
work, my big fingers finally got the tracks in the proper place with
the plungers in the proper place. It seems to be working, I hope
will last until I get this project done.


It may work for a very long time. I guess time will tell, huh?


--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote

That makes no sense Keith. 20A switches are common hardware. Perhaps
this is a matter of how you were explaining your need to them? Or perhaps
that they do not have the exact replacement for your particular switch?
In the case of the latter, to replace it with standard hardware should be
really easy.

He may need to look up a real electrical supply house instead of the big box
or local hardware.
--
Jim in NC


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

On 4/12/2014 7:29 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Keith Nuttle wrote:


OP: Yes I am sure the problem the switch. The rocker will not move.


I spending the morning looking for a replacement switch or part at
Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, and several other stores. Most had no idea
of what I was looking for and the problem of the required 20 amps to
starting the motor.

That makes no sense Keith. 20A switches are common hardware. Perhaps this
is a matter of how you were explaining your need to them? Or perhaps that
they do not have the exact replacement for your particular switch? In the
case of the latter, to replace it with standard hardware should be really
easy.


When I got home, I decided to take the switch apart and see what was
wrong. The rocker has two plungers, that normally run on to
brass/copper tracks in the base. One of the tracks shifted and was
out of place. This prevented the rocker from rocking. After some
work, my big fingers finally got the tracks in the proper place with
the plungers in the proper place. It seems to be working, I hope
will last until I get this project done.


It may work for a very long time. I guess time will tell, huh?


I was trying to keep with the original item not to rewire the saw. As
purchased 45 years ago the original saw came with a switch box, that had
two outlets, one through the switch, and the other hot all of the time.
The motor was wired with a standard male plug which plugged into the
controlled plug on switch box. This switch box was a standard item with
catalog number 45 years ago. The switch box was fasten to the under
side of the cast iron top.

As a last resort, I know I can get a 20 amp switch, a plug, a box, a
face plate and some wire and make my own switch box.

You're dealing with a 40+ year old motor that as my mother would
say,
"doesn't owe me anything."

Jump in your handy-dandy go kart and go to the nearest Grainger and
buy a new motor.

You solve your problem SAFELY.

Lew
----------------------------------------------
"Keith Nuttle" wrote:

Even though it is a 40 year old motor it has been maintained. It is
not cost effective to replace the over $200 motor because the $30
switch failed. Do I see over 10 trillion dollars in 5 years
----------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.


http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb


Lew

On 4/11/2014 8:57 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the run
condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers and
frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project that
I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a switch
on this motor?

Two things...

1)

An inductive load has a turn on/ turn off voltage spike. That will be
harsh on the relatively wimpy switches they put in switched outlets.

2)

If it is a 20A only saw, the plug will have one of the pins horizontal,
rather than vertical and won't fit.

So...

I think they have covers for handy boxes that will fit a switch and an
outlet. Buy a good light switch and use one of those.

Perhaps:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-2...-2WS/202035005


If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be aware of.


--
pentapus

Lew Hodgett wrote:


How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?

Perhaps. What more would you consider necessary?


Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.


Today's technology? For a simple motor? C'mon Lew - what's really there?


--

-Mike-

On 4/12/2014 8:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
....

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.

http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb
....

And he _still_ doesn't have a switch...

I gotta' agree that replacing a motor for a switch failure is over the top.

--

Lew Hodgett wrote:
How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Perhaps. What more would you consider necessary?
---------------------------------------------------------------
After maintaining an operarating thermal environment
within specs, not much more is needed.
-------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.
----------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Today's technology? For a simple motor? C'mon Lew - what's really
there?
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Today's technology." You know the kind that has all the control
circuitry built into the motor.

Lew

On 4/12/2014 6:42 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 4/12/2014 12:33 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Keith Nuttle" wrote:

I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the
run condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.
....

What was the point of the unswitched outlet, anyway, on a TS?

I'd replace it w/ something like the following--I may have one or two
unused (I swapped everything over to 240 V magnetic starters) that I'd
let go for half that or so if interested...

--

On 4/12/2014 9:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
You're dealing with a 40+ year old motor that as my mother would
say,
"doesn't owe me anything."

Jump in your handy-dandy go kart and go to the nearest Grainger and
buy a new motor.

You solve your problem SAFELY.

Lew
----------------------------------------------
"Keith Nuttle" wrote:

Even though it is a 40 year old motor it has been maintained. It is
not cost effective to replace the over $200 motor because the $30
switch failed. Do I see over 10 trillion dollars in 5 years
----------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.


http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb


Lew


"How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?"
__________________________________________________ ____

The saw was purchased about 1970. I inherited the saw about 1987. My
father-in-law had been sick for a long time so the saw got used very
little.

At some time in the late 90's the motor died. I took it down to the
local small motor repair shop, for a diagnosis of whether I needed a new
motor. He looked at it ask a couple of question, and reached for a
screw drive. He proceeded to disassemble the motor and found a splinter
of wood in a contact in the motor start circuit. He took out the
armature and cleaned the old saw dust out of the motor. With each step
he showed me exactly what he was doing. He recommended doing that
every 3 to 5 years depending on the usage, and to vacuum the vents on
the motor with every use.

I have followed his recommendation ever since and the motor is still in
good conditions.

As I said in the previous post, after not finding what I wanted for a
replacement, I took the switch apart and rebuilt it. I will order a
new switch on line. That is what I did for my ShopVac after that
switch failed.

On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 08:48:45 -0400, Keith Nuttle
I have followed his recommendation ever since and the motor is still in
good conditions.

Wouldn't this solution be moot if he bought and used a TEFC motor?

On 4/13/2014 8:21 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 08:48:45 -0400, Keith Nuttle
I have followed his recommendation ever since and the motor is still in
good conditions.

Wouldn't this solution be moot if he bought and used a TEFC motor?

Why spend several hundred $$ to save a minute or two of air blast once
in a while? Certainly the amount of use given the saw the power savings
isn't going to make up for it.

I've no ww equipment that doesn't have a motor that's at least as old as
OP's and a couple that are well over--mid- to late-50s is the vintage of
the Walker-Turner shaper. As w/ OP, an occasional cleanout is all they
need to be essentially life-time (or several lifetimes).

The motor (7.5 HP) in the elevator leg house here on the farm dates from
about '55 and it gets far harder use for hours on end during harvest in
100+ F ambient temp's and it's still going and will undoubtedly outlast
me by a few decades.

--

On 4/13/2014 7:48 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
....

... I took the switch apart and rebuilt it. ...

Not sure on the form factor you're actually looking for, but one of the
Ace Hardware affiliates in town has a very decent collection of
replacement tool switches. They're in the yellow-box assortment
collection area of specialty fasteners, etc., ... The SS, nylon, brass
fasteners, assorted other stuff collection all decent h-ware stores
have; just some have much larger assortment than others. If you've got
one of those around, might be worth a look-see.

The switch on one of the grinders (a cheap Chinese thing I keep the wire
wheels on) sounds like made very similar to your description. It's
failed a couple of times and have reworked it. It seems that time
between failures gets shorter every time and I suspect eventually it'll
just quit entirely, but so far it's gone probably 15 yr since the first
time, so there' likely a good deal of life left in yours.

--

On Sat, 12 Apr 2014 23:10:14 -0400, pentapus
wrote:

On 4/11/2014 8:57 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
I have a Sears 10 inch table saw with 1hp motor that was purchased in
1970. The motor is a capacitor start type motor 115 volts 60 cycles
3450 RPM. The motor uses 20 amps. A 15 amp circuit will not run the
motor. I assume the starting circuit requires the 20 amps, and the run
condition is 15 amps.

The saw came with a two outlet switch that the motor plugged into.

The saw is used for cross cutting of 1 X 2 or 1 X 4 pine or fir. It
never runs for more the 10 minutes at a time. (pictures stretchers and
frames )

Now my question. The switch itself died to night, I have a project that
I on which I am running out of time, I plan to try to find a
replacement switch tomorrow.

That failing can I can I use a common 6 outlet power strip as a switch
on this motor?

Two things...

1)

An inductive load has a turn on/ turn off voltage spike. That will be
harsh on the relatively wimpy switches they put in switched outlets.

Agreed. The saw will be drawing far more than 20A when it starts, not
to mention the arcing caused by the inductive load. I'd buy a switch
that was rated for motors.

2)

If it is a 20A only saw, the plug will have one of the pins horizontal,
rather than vertical and won't fit.

It's a 1HP saw, so about 10A. It draws far more than that when
starting, so the 20A circuit. It likely has a NEMA 5-15 plug.
So...

I think they have covers for handy boxes that will fit a switch and an
outlet. Buy a good light switch and use one of those.

Perhaps:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-2...-2WS/202035005


If I can are there any limitations or problems that I should be aware of.

On 4/12/2014 10:49 PM, dpb wrote:
....

I'd replace it w/ something like the following--I may have one or two
unused (I swapped everything over to 240 V magnetic starters) that I'd
let go for half that or so if interested...

See I forgot to paste the link, sorry...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLACEMENT-ELECTRIC-PUSH-BUTTON-ON-OFF-POWER-SWITCH-FOR-STATIONARY-MACHINE-TOOL-/251277224123

This wasn't at all exhaustive, just first of the form factor was
thinking of that came up; you can probably do quite a lot better if
really look. But, for TS or the like, this is the form factor I'd
prefer and if not going magnetic starter, ...

--

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:534a07e1$0$61353
:



Lew Hodgett wrote:
How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Perhaps. What more would you consider necessary?
---------------------------------------------------------------
After maintaining an operarating thermal environment
within specs, not much more is needed.
-------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.
----------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Today's technology? For a simple motor? C'mon Lew - what's really
there?
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Today's technology." You know the kind that has all the control
circuitry built into the motor.

Lew

He really ought to replace the entire unit with a SawStop.

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's
technology.


http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb
--------------------------------------------------------
Sorry for the omission.
Should have included:

http://tinyurl.com/od3xesa

Lew

On 4/13/2014 1:14 PM, Tyrone Tiews wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:534a07e1$0$61353
:



Lew Hodgett wrote:
How do you maintain a motor, wipe the sawdust off?
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Perhaps. What more would you consider necessary?
---------------------------------------------------------------
After maintaining an operarating thermal environment
within specs, not much more is needed.
-------------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's technology.
----------------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Today's technology? For a simple motor? C'mon Lew - what's really
there?
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Today's technology." You know the kind that has all the control
circuitry built into the motor.

Lew

He really ought to replace the entire unit with a SawStop.



And have it stop when I am not expecting it to?

On 4/13/2014 4:15 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 4/13/2014 1:14 PM, Tyrone Tiews wrote:



He really ought to replace the entire unit with a SawStop.



And have it stop when I am not expecting it to?

Right, and don't wear seatbelts either in case you go off a bridge and
have to get out quickly.

On 4/13/2014 4:08 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's
technology.


http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb
--------------------------------------------------------
Sorry for the omission.
Should have included:

http://tinyurl.com/od3xesa

Lew



I think that is overkill... $80 for a switch..
A normal 20 amp wall switch will do.

--
Jeff

On 4/13/2014 12:46 PM, dpb wrote:
On 4/12/2014 10:49 PM, dpb wrote:
...

I'd replace it w/ something like the following--I may have one or two
unused (I swapped everything over to 240 V magnetic starters) that I'd
let go for half that or so if interested...

See I forgot to paste the link, sorry...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLACEMENT-ELECTRIC-PUSH-BUTTON-ON-OFF-POWER-SWITCH-FOR-STATIONARY-MACHINE-TOOL-/251277224123


This wasn't at all exhaustive, just first of the form factor was
thinking of that came up; you can probably do quite a lot better if
really look. But, for TS or the like, this is the form factor I'd
prefer and if not going magnetic starter, ...

--


Much better choice and 35 amp for 110v.

--
Jeff

Lew Hodgett wrote:

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's
technology.


http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb
--------------------------------------------------------
Sorry for the omission.
Should have included:

http://tinyurl.com/od3xesa

------------------------------------------------------------
"woodchucker" wrote:

I think that is overkill... $80 for a switch..
A normal 20 amp wall switch will do.

----------------------------------------------
As long as you're willing to give up thermal overload protection
for the motor.

Lew

On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 13:51:23 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:



Lew Hodgett wrote:

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's
technology.


http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb
--------------------------------------------------------
Sorry for the omission.
Should have included:

http://tinyurl.com/od3xesa

------------------------------------------------------------
"woodchucker" wrote:

I think that is overkill... $80 for a switch..
A normal 20 amp wall switch will do.

----------------------------------------------
As long as you're willing to give up thermal overload protection
for the motor.

Lew

Which is USUALLY built into the motor.

On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 08:38:25 -0500, dpb wrote:
Why spend several hundred $$ to save a minute or two of air blast once
in a while? Certainly the amount of use given the saw the power savings
isn't going to make up for it.

You could apply that sentiment to a whole lot of things. Cell phones,
computers, microwaves, televisions, etc. The question is, does someone
want the convenience of modern day technology or do they want to go
the older route.

In the end, it might make up for it if you consider all the time and
problems the OP appears to be having to get his machine up and running
again.

On 4/13/2014 6:10 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 08:38:25 -0500, dpb wrote:
Why spend several hundred $$ to save a minute or two of air blast once
in a while? Certainly the amount of use given the saw the power savings
isn't going to make up for it.

You could apply that sentiment to a whole lot of things. Cell phones,
computers, microwaves, televisions, etc. The question is, does someone
want the convenience of modern day technology or do they want to go
the older route.

In the end, it might make up for it if you consider all the time and
problems the OP appears to be having to get his machine up and running
again.

Lets keep this in perspective. Other that the trip to Raleigh, which
the switch was but one of many errands, garden shops. fabric stores,
etc. I have spent less that 20 minutes on this project. Most of that
time was getting the tracks in place and keeping the plungers in place.

On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 18:18:25 -0400, Keith Nuttle
Lets keep this in perspective. Other that the trip to Raleigh, which
the switch was but one of many errands, garden shops. fabric stores,
etc. I have spent less that 20 minutes on this project. Most of that
time was getting the tracks in place and keeping the plungers in place.

20 minutes eh? You forgot to include all the time you've spent here
asking and responding to questions about the switch.

wrote:
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 18:18:25 -0400, Keith Nuttle
Lets keep this in perspective. Other that the trip to Raleigh, which
the switch was but one of many errands, garden shops. fabric stores,
etc. I have spent less that 20 minutes on this project. Most of
that time was getting the tracks in place and keeping the plungers
in place.

20 minutes eh? You forgot to include all the time you've spent here
asking and responding to questions about the switch.

Yeahbut just think about how much time Keith would have had to have spent
talking about his new motor if he had gone that route...

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 13:51:23 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:



Lew Hodgett wrote:

Although not $200, this solves your problem with today's
technology.


http://tinyurl.com/nw7ppyb
--------------------------------------------------------
Sorry for the omission.
Should have included:

http://tinyurl.com/od3xesa

------------------------------------------------------------
"woodchucker" wrote:

I think that is overkill... $80 for a switch..
A normal 20 amp wall switch will do.

----------------------------------------------
As long as you're willing to give up thermal overload protection
for the motor.

How does the switch know how hot the motor is?

On 4/13/2014 6:24 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 13 Apr 2014 18:18:25 -0400, Keith Nuttle
Lets keep this in perspective. Other that the trip to Raleigh, which
the switch was but one of many errands, garden shops. fabric stores,
etc. I have spent less that 20 minutes on this project. Most of that
time was getting the tracks in place and keeping the plungers in place.

20 minutes eh? You forgot to include all the time you've spent here
asking and responding to questions about the switch.


Talking with friends is not a chargeable time