[robb]

I have very large (living) white oak 32" (inch) diameter and 60-70'(feet)
tall that will need to come down soon as it is slowly becoming a hazard.
It would be a shame if it were to go up a chimney or into some chipper
unless that is all that is possible.

I was hoping I could salvage the wood somehow, possibly for making boards,
oak flooring possibly ? any other ideas ?

How do i go about that ? who to call ? what to search for ?

I don't know the value of such an idea (how much board produced) nor who
or what to search for. A more knowledgeable neighbor said a big mill usually
won't touch any urban trees or they won't touch the first 12 feet due to
contamination with nails, screws, etc . Additionally he suggested with
larger mills the tree will just be added to a collection of trees with no
guarantee any boards you get will come from that tree.

So I am looking for ideas and advice on what to do with such a large tree
and how to go about it ?

Thanks for any helpful ideas,
robb

[[email protected]]

On Fri, 21 Mar 2014 07:02:01 -0400, "robb" wrote:
I don't know the value of such an idea (how much board produced) nor who
or what to search for. A more knowledgeable neighbor said a big mill usually
won't touch any urban trees or they won't touch the first 12 feet due to
contamination with nails, screws, etc . Additionally he suggested with
larger mills the tree will just be added to a collection of trees with no
guarantee any boards you get will come from that tree.

http://www.prweb.com/releases/2013/3/prweb10473337.htm
Wood-Mizer has a network of private owners that will come to your
location and slice wood ready for drying. The only thing I'm not sure
about is who to hire or how to determine that your tree is healthy and
solid, not rotted out on the inside. You might be able to determine
that by getting someone local to cut is down and then examine the
core.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 3/21/2014 7:27 AM, wrote:


http://www.prweb.com/releases/2013/3/prweb10473337.htm
Wood-Mizer has a network of private owners that will come to your
location and slice wood ready for drying. The only thing I'm not sure
about is who to hire or how to determine that your tree is healthy and
solid, not rotted out on the inside. You might be able to determine
that by getting someone local to cut is down and then examine the
core.


It seems backwards, but it may be best to call the Wood-Mizer guy
referred to you first. He may have a cousin that takes trees down or
will give you a lead on a reasonably priced arborist.

Once the wood is cut, you will have to stack and dry it, but you mayh
already know about that. It would be nice to do the floors or make
furniture from the wood growing in your yard.

As for the comment about the nails and screws int he tree, I bought some
cherry a while back and one of the boards had shotgun pellets embedded
in it.

[woodchucker[_3_]]

On 3/21/2014 7:27 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 21 Mar 2014 07:02:01 -0400, "robb" wrote:
I don't know the value of such an idea (how much board produced) nor who
or what to search for. A more knowledgeable neighbor said a big mill usually
won't touch any urban trees or they won't touch the first 12 feet due to
contamination with nails, screws, etc . Additionally he suggested with
larger mills the tree will just be added to a collection of trees with no
guarantee any boards you get will come from that tree.

http://www.prweb.com/releases/2013/3/prweb10473337.htm
Wood-Mizer has a network of private owners that will come to your
location and slice wood ready for drying. The only thing I'm not sure
about is who to hire or how to determine that your tree is healthy and
solid, not rotted out on the inside. You might be able to determine
that by getting someone local to cut is down and then examine the
core.

You will have to pay for any damage to a blade, about $60 for the small
mill. So if there are nails or screws you pay for each lost blade.
Small price to pay.

--
Jeff

[Sonny]

On Friday, March 21, 2014 6:02:01 AM UTC-5, robb wrote:
I have very large (living) white oak 32" (inch) diameter and 60-70'(feet) tall

You say it's in a hazardous position, so I assume you, yourself, won't be cutting it down. A tree service will likely charge you $2K-$3K to cut down that size tree... that pricing may include removing the wood and grinding the stump. I would think, just to cut the tree down, they would charge $1K, at the least, in an urban setting.

Once the tree is down:
A private miller, with portable mill, may charge $150-$200 just to mill (through-&-through cutting method) the lumber, itself, and charge an additional fee for his going to you, setup.... another $200 (i.e., $100/hr)?

Using a through-and-through cutting method (cheapest and have the natrual edge on at least one edge of your boards), 1/3 of your lumber will be quarter sawn and you'll get about 1200-1500 Square ft of lumber (boards milled to 1 1/4" thick).... or you'll get maybe 1500-1700 Square ft of lumber, if the boards are milled to 1" thickness. *Lumber is usually milled to 1 1/4" thick, to allow for subsequent planing to desired finished thickness.... ER Cedar may be, generally is, an exception to that.

Once your lumber is milled, kiln drying will cost you. If doing your own air drying, you will have about 5%-10% of your lumber warp or check, to the point that it may be waste, having to trim it for your flooring application..

Sonny

[dpb]

On 3/21/2014 10:44 AM, Sonny wrote:
....

Using a through-and-through cutting method (cheapest and have the
natrual edge on at least one edge of your boards), 1/3 of your lumber
will be quarter sawn and you'll get about 1200-1500 Square ft of lumber
(boards milled to 1 1/4" thick).... or you'll get maybe 1500-1700 Square
ft of lumber, if the boards are milled to 1" thickness. *Lumber is
usually milled to 1 1/4" thick, to allow for subsequent planing to
desired finished thickness.... ER Cedar may be, generally is, an
exception to that.

....

Only quibble I have is that hardwoods are roughsawn and sold in bulk on
"quarters" -- 4/4 and 5/4 are two very common thicknesses. If the
intent is for flooring w/ 3/4" thickness there's no sense in sawing at
5/4 with a full 1/2 overage. If the sawyer is any good at all he'll be
able to hit the mark spot-on.

If the purpose is general-purpose furniture/cabinet-making then there
would be reason to saw several different thickness including some 6- and
8/4 for structural pieces as legs, cabinet bases, etc., ...

Much depends on what is found about the quality of the log and also
whether we're talking a white oak or one of the reds--the white oak of
that size if good log could be well worth cutting for the quarter-sawn
features ensuing therefrom.

--

[Mike Marlow[_2_]]

robb wrote:
I have very large (living) white oak 32" (inch) diameter and 60-70'(feet)
tall that will need to come down soon as it is slowly
becoming a hazard. It would be a shame if it were to go up a chimney
or into some chipper unless that is all that is possible.

Oh - it's just oak. Makes a great paint grade lumber...


I was hoping I could salvage the wood somehow, possibly for making
boards, oak flooring possibly ? any other ideas ?

Have you considered pallet material? Or perhaps tree stands for the deer
hunters in your area? Sorry - trying to be humorous...


How do i go about that ? who to call ? what to search for ?

My advise would be to go out to woodmizer.com and look for portable sawmill
owners in your area. Woodmizer keeps an up to date directory of sawyers so
you can easily find someone in your area. Generally, those guys will come
out, look at your tree, give you estimates of yield, and probably even
recommend a service to drop the tree if you don't care to tackle that
yourself, or if they don't do it. Lots of good knowledge to be gained from
talking to these guys. They cut up lots of board feet of lumber every year
and they can really offer you a lot of information.


I don't know the value of such an idea (how much board produced) nor who
or what to search for. A more knowledgeable neighbor said a
big mill usually won't touch any urban trees or they won't touch the
first 12 feet due to contamination with nails, screws, etc .
Additionally he suggested with larger mills the tree will just be
added to a collection of trees with no guarantee any boards you get
will come from that tree.

Your neighbor is pretty much right. That said - give the Woodmizer guys a
call. You will likely find a more flexible story there and you'll probably
see a big difference in cost/profit compared to a large mill.


So I am looking for ideas and advice on what to do with such a large
tree and how to go about it ?

I think you should just cut it into 12' lengths, hire a truck, get it
loaded, and ship it to me. I will relieve you of all of the other hassles
associated with that tree.


Thanks for any helpful ideas,

Always here to help...


--

-Mike-

[Sonny]

On Friday, March 21, 2014 11:03:26 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
Only quibble I have is that hardwoods are roughsawn and sold in bulk on "quarters" -- 4/4 and 5/4 are two very common thicknesses. If the intent is for flooring w/ 3/4" thickness there's no sense in sawing at 5/4 with a full 1/2 overage. If the sawyer is any good at all he'll be able to hit the mark spot-on. If the purpose is general-purpose furniture/cabinet-making then there would be reason to saw several different thickness including some 6- and 8/4 for structural pieces as legs, cabinet bases, etc., ... Much depends on what is found about the quality of the log and also whether we're talking a white oak or one of the reds--the white oak of that size if good log could be well worth cutting for the quarter-sawn features ensuing therefrom. --

Yep, I agree with all you say. I was thinking flooring, only.

I've been using a private miller for 20+ years and my price quoting was for my area, south Louisiana. I think I get a little discount, being buddies with the miller's Uncle, the original miller.

That walnut log I had milled 2 yrs ago, 1 1/4" thick for table tops, got about 400 bf of lumber and we hit 2 nails (2 blades), he charged me $120 total - $26 per blade, his cost, no mark up. I brought the log to him, also.

I'm hoping to have a 20"-24", 10' pecan log milled tomorrow. We'll see what the fee is for 1 1/2" - 2" slabs, for making some "George Nakashima" headboards.

Sonny

[woodchucker[_3_]]

On 3/21/2014 12:29 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
robb wrote:
I have very large (living) white oak 32" (inch) diameter and 60-70'(feet)
tall that will need to come down soon as it is slowly
becoming a hazard. It would be a shame if it were to go up a chimney
or into some chipper unless that is all that is possible.

Oh - it's just oak. Makes a great paint grade lumber...
No it isn't, this is white oak, not pin oak or red oak.
This is good wood.



I was hoping I could salvage the wood somehow, possibly for making
boards, oak flooring possibly ? any other ideas ?

Have you considered pallet material? Or perhaps tree stands for the deer
hunters in your area? Sorry - trying to be humorous...


How do i go about that ? who to call ? what to search for ?

My advise would be to go out to woodmizer.com and look for portable sawmill
owners in your area. Woodmizer keeps an up to date directory of sawyers so
you can easily find someone in your area. Generally, those guys will come
out, look at your tree, give you estimates of yield, and probably even
recommend a service to drop the tree if you don't care to tackle that
yourself, or if they don't do it. Lots of good knowledge to be gained from
talking to these guys. They cut up lots of board feet of lumber every year
and they can really offer you a lot of information.


I don't know the value of such an idea (how much board produced) nor who
or what to search for. A more knowledgeable neighbor said a
big mill usually won't touch any urban trees or they won't touch the
first 12 feet due to contamination with nails, screws, etc .
Additionally he suggested with larger mills the tree will just be
added to a collection of trees with no guarantee any boards you get
will come from that tree.

Your neighbor is pretty much right. That said - give the Woodmizer guys a
call. You will likely find a more flexible story there and you'll probably
see a big difference in cost/profit compared to a large mill.


So I am looking for ideas and advice on what to do with such a large
tree and how to go about it ?

I think you should just cut it into 12' lengths, hire a truck, get it
loaded, and ship it to me. I will relieve you of all of the other hassles
associated with that tree.


Thanks for any helpful ideas,

Always here to help...




--
Jeff

[[email protected]]

Like the others have posted - get a guy with a portable bandsaw mill.

If you can give him a full days work - and provide a couple good
grunts to assist - you'd be surprised how quickly a pile of lumber
appears ! Your oak tree might be only ~ 2 hours of sawing ..

Good luck - let us all know how it works out.
John T.






I have very large (living) white oak 32" (inch) diameter and 60-70'(feet)
tall that will need to come down soon as it is slowly becoming a hazard.
It would be a shame if it were to go up a chimney or into some chipper
unless that is all that is possible.

I was hoping I could salvage the wood somehow, possibly for making boards,
oak flooring possibly ? any other ideas ?

How do i go about that ? who to call ? what to search for ?

I don't know the value of such an idea (how much board produced) nor who
or what to search for. A more knowledgeable neighbor said a big mill usually
won't touch any urban trees or they won't touch the first 12 feet due to
contamination with nails, screws, etc . Additionally he suggested with
larger mills the tree will just be added to a collection of trees with no
guarantee any boards you get will come from that tree.

So I am looking for ideas and advice on what to do with such a large tree
and how to go about it ?

Thanks for any helpful ideas,
robb



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

[Morgans]

wrote in message
...

Like the others have posted - get a guy with a portable bandsaw mill.

If you can give him a full days work - and provide a couple good
grunts to assist - you'd be surprised how quickly a pile of lumber
appears ! Your oak tree might be only ~ 2 hours of sawing ..

Good luck - let us all know how it works out.
John T.


even better, get a nephew or neighbor of someone to shoot some video and
post it somewhere.
--
Jim in NC


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

[robb]

wrote in message ...

On Fri, 21 Mar 2014 07:02:01 -0400, "robb" wrote:
I don't know the value of such an idea (how much board produced) nor
who
or what to search for. A more knowledgeable neighbor said a big mill
usually
won't touch any urban trees or they won't touch the first 12 feet due to
contamination with nails, screws, etc . Additionally he suggested with
larger mills the tree will just be added to a collection of trees with
no
guarantee any boards you get will come from that tree.

http://www.prweb.com/releases/2013/3/prweb10473337.htm
Wood-Mizer has a network of private owners that will come to your
location and slice wood ready for drying. The only thing I'm not sure
about is who to hire or how to determine that your tree is healthy and
solid, not rotted out on the inside. You might be able to determine
that by getting someone local to cut is down and then examine the
core.

Thanks to everyone who replied. Great ideas that I was unaware. I am a
little wiser now.

I am close to Atlanta and there are a number of hits on the Wood-Mizer
within 45 minute drive.

The tree is a little bigger than i thought, it is 10 ft around 4 ft off the
ground (so 36 inches) maybe taller too.

I will try to remember a video if I take that path.

If I didn't have a convenient place for stacking that much wood for drying
would a large non-conditioned storage unit work ? maybe there is a timing or
technical issue for not doing that.

thanks again to all for ideas and help ,
robb

[Sonny]

On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 5:55:52 AM UTC-5, robb wrote:
If I didn't have a convenient place for stacking that much wood for drying would a large non-conditioned storage unit work ?

Definitely, it will work. Lumber is air dried all the time. Dries about 1" thickness per year. Sticker the lumber for air drying. Wash off (water hose) the saw dust, before stickering/stacking.... sometimes sawdust (and dirt dust) retains moisture long enough for it to mold and mildew on the board's faces, causing blackening or other discoloring on your boards, so get the sawdust off before storing/drying.

I just had a log milled and this morning hosed the boards/sawdust off, see pics he https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?details=1

Sonny

Sonny

[woodchucker[_3_]]

On 4/2/2014 10:16 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, April 2, 2014 5:55:52 AM UTC-5, robb wrote:
If I didn't have a convenient place for stacking that much wood for drying would a large non-conditioned storage unit work ?

Definitely, it will work. Lumber is air dried all the time. Dries about 1" thickness per year. Sticker the lumber for air drying. Wash off (water hose) the saw dust, before stickering/stacking.... sometimes sawdust (and dirt dust) retains moisture long enough for it to mold and mildew on the board's faces, causing blackening or other discoloring on your boards, so get the sawdust off before storing/drying.

I just had a log milled and this morning hosed the boards/sawdust off, see pics he https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?details=1

Sonny

Sonny


That pecan looks nice... I have never worked with it, but I like the
results when I have seen stuff made with it...


--
Jeff

[[email protected]]

On Wed, 2 Apr 2014 06:55:52 -0400, "robb" wrote:

wrote in message ...

On Fri, 21 Mar 2014 07:02:01 -0400, "robb" wrote:
I don't know the value of such an idea (how much board produced) nor
who
or what to search for. A more knowledgeable neighbor said a big mill
usually
won't touch any urban trees or they won't touch the first 12 feet due to
contamination with nails, screws, etc . Additionally he suggested with
larger mills the tree will just be added to a collection of trees with
no
guarantee any boards you get will come from that tree.

http://www.prweb.com/releases/2013/3/prweb10473337.htm
Wood-Mizer has a network of private owners that will come to your
location and slice wood ready for drying. The only thing I'm not sure
about is who to hire or how to determine that your tree is healthy and
solid, not rotted out on the inside. You might be able to determine
that by getting someone local to cut is down and then examine the
core.

Thanks to everyone who replied. Great ideas that I was unaware. I am a
little wiser now.

I am close to Atlanta and there are a number of hits on the Wood-Mizer
within 45 minute drive.

The tree is a little bigger than i thought, it is 10 ft around 4 ft off the
ground (so 36 inches) maybe taller too.

I will try to remember a video if I take that path.

If I didn't have a convenient place for stacking that much wood for drying
would a large non-conditioned storage unit work ? maybe there is a timing or
technical issue for not doing that.

thanks again to all for ideas and help ,
robb
A shipping contailer out in the sun with a vent at the one top
corner and another on the oposite bottom corner wil "kiln dry" the
wood in a couple weeks - not sure with the humidity in Atlanta though