What methods / products are suggested for removing accumulated wax / polish from
furniture? Item in question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe the finish to
be lacquer.

Thanks.

Doug

On 12/14/2013 9:06 AM, Doug wrote:
What methods / products are suggested for removing accumulated wax / polish from
furniture? Item in question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe the finish to
be lacquer.

Thanks.

Doug


I would say mineral spirits first.
Followed by a soapy mix after the mineral spirits are gone.

you might need to repeat a few times.
Mineral spirits should melt the wax away, the soapy mix to carry it all off.

--
Jeff

"Doug" wrote in message

What methods / products are suggested for removing
accumulated wax / polish from furniture? Item in
question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe
the finish to be lacquer.


Naptha (lighter fluid)



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 12/14/2013 10:15 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message

What methods / products are suggested for removing
accumulated wax / polish from furniture? Item in
question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe
the finish to be lacquer.


Naptha (lighter fluid)





Same as My immediate thought, IIRC Briwax is loaded with something like
lighter fluid to soften it.

BUT would naphtha bother lacquer?

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 10:22:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/14/2013 10:15 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message

What methods / products are suggested for removing
accumulated wax / polish from furniture? Item in
question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe
the finish to be lacquer.


Naptha (lighter fluid)





Same as My immediate thought, IIRC Briwax is loaded with something like
lighter fluid to soften it.

BUT would naphtha bother lacquer?
Pure naptha should not bother either laquer or varnish. If it has
toluene added you could have a problem.
Coleman fuel works well - but OUTSIDE - well vented, and no source of
spark/ignition. High humidity to eliminate static discharge??

On 12/14/2013 11:30 AM, wrote:
On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 10:22:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/14/2013 10:15 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"Doug" wrote in message

What methods / products are suggested for removing
accumulated wax / polish from furniture? Item in
question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe
the finish to be lacquer.


Naptha (lighter fluid)





Same as My immediate thought, IIRC Briwax is loaded with something like
lighter fluid to soften it.

BUT would naphtha bother lacquer?
Pure naptha should not bother either laquer or varnish. If it has
toluene added you could have a problem.
Coleman fuel works well - but OUTSIDE - well vented, and no source of
spark/ignition. High humidity to eliminate static discharge??



Goooood to know, thanks!

"Doug" wrote:

What methods / products are suggested for removing
accumulated wax / polish from furniture? Item in
question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe
the finish to be lacquer.
--------------------------------------------------
Method is a non hydrocarbon cleaner that eats kitchen grease and wax.

http://tinyurl.com/llfttej

Comes in a spray bottle.

I got one at Target.

Lew

In article ,
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Dec 2013 10:22:11 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

BUT would naphtha bother lacquer?
Pure naptha should not bother either laquer or varnish. If it has
toluene added you could have a problem.
Coleman fuel works well - but OUTSIDE - well vented, and no source of
spark/ignition. High humidity to eliminate static discharge??

Coleman fuel goes WHOMP! really well. Ah, the memories...

--
Do the right thing. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest.
- Mark Twain.

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 10:15:49 AM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:

Naptha

Indeed the preferred soil/dirt and polish furniture wax remover. Often the polish is the problem to begin with when you see accumulation of gunk in details, corners, inside corners, etc.

Cheap polish/furniture wax is loaded with all kinds of silicones, waxes, and resins. Amazingly, it sticks well to surfaces while offering little protection. And of course the worst are the ones that claim to "nourish" the wood... how do you nourish a piece of material that is sealed?

I would go with naptha over anything else as it is tried and true. Get a handful of paper towels before you start and go to the dollar store and get the multi pack of cheap tooth brushes to use when cleaning. While you are there get some toothpicks, and if a pair of rubber gloves to wear. You are set! Do your cleaning in a well ventilated place and it should be a fairly easy task.

Robert

Robert,

Thank you for your comments - always appreciate the benefit of your experience.

Went to the local box store for the naphtha - brand carried is Klean Strip VM&P naphtha.
Following note was in the instructions for use: 'Do not use as a general purpose cleaner.'

Is there another variety / brand of naphtha preferred for use as a cleaner?

Suspect the cautionary note is legal CYA.

Thanks!

Doug



" wrote:

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 10:15:49 AM UTC-6, dadiOH wrote:

Naptha

Indeed the preferred soil/dirt and polish furniture wax remover. Often the polish is the problem to begin with when you see accumulation of gunk in details, corners, inside corners, etc.

Cheap polish/furniture wax is loaded with all kinds of silicones, waxes, and resins. Amazingly, it sticks well to surfaces while offering little protection. And of course the worst are the ones that claim to "nourish" the wood... how do you nourish a piece of material that is sealed?

I would go with naptha over anything else as it is tried and true. Get a handful of paper towels before you start and go to the dollar store and get the multi pack of cheap tooth brushes to use when cleaning. While you are there get some toothpicks, and if a pair of rubber gloves to wear. You are set! Do your cleaning in a well ventilated place and it should be a fairly easy task.

Robert

On Monday, December 23, 2013 10:10:10 AM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
Robert,



Thank you for your comments - always appreciate the benefit of your experience.



Went to the local box store for the naphtha - brand carried is Klean Strip VM&P naphtha.

Following note was in the instructions for use: 'Do not use as a general purpose cleaner.'



Is there another variety / brand of naphtha preferred for use as a cleaner?



Suspect the cautionary note is legal CYA.


Doug - a one in a million chance I am here! I don't get to this group much so good for both of us.

The naptha you have found is Varnish Maker's and Painter's Naptha. It is not known for its purity, but rather for the fact that it will thin varnish and paint successfully. It allows a very wide spectrum of ingredients and mixtures of the same to hit the lowest common denominator of simply being able to thin an oil based product.

Naptha has the "not to be used as a cleaner" warning posted in it as there were several different solutions of naptha used for decades as dry cleaning fluids. So when you took your dress suit to the cleaners, they used naptha or a solution with naptha in it to clean it, along with other non washable clothes. Find that out, it was a short cut for many to clean their non washables themselves with a small can of naptha (my Dad kept "Energine" around when I was a kid) to hit spots and possible stains. Naptha was widely used as a utility cleaner in the manufacturing and industrial community as well. There are too many other cleaners that do the job better and safer these days for those applications.

But naptha still has its place. Go to a real paint store (not Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) like Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore and get some real, first brew naptha. Most naptha is recycled cleaning agents from heavy industry and is a mix of all kinds of stuff (as most thinners are). This isn't illegal as "naptha" is simply a trade name, not an exact product. However, the stuff you get at the paint store will be minimally blended, so there will be much less chance of that product reacting with anything that might be left behind on your furniture.

Robert,

My lucky day you were reading rec.woodworking! Is there another newsgroup where you more
frequently post? Your detailed guidance / instructions have been invaluable to me in
several instances and greatly appreciated.

Was curious as to what VM&P meant - now I know. I too recall Energine - nasty smelling
stuff my mom used for the same purpose as did your dad.

The VM&P MSDS identifies the main ingredient (95-100%) as petroleum ether. Only
recollection I have of ether is that in gaseous form it burns exceedingly rapidly.

Will check the local Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore stores to get the 'good stuff' and
start cleaning.

Thanks again and best wishes to you and your family for a safe, healthy, and very Merry
Christmas!

Doug


" wrote:

Doug - a one in a million chance I am here! I don't get to this group much so good for both of us.

The naptha you have found is Varnish Maker's and Painter's Naptha. It is not known for its purity, but rather for the fact that it will thin varnish and paint successfully. It allows a very wide spectrum of ingredients and mixtures of the same to hit the lowest common denominator of simply being able to thin an oil based product.

Naptha has the "not to be used as a cleaner" warning posted in it as there were several different solutions of naptha used for decades as dry cleaning fluids. So when you took your dress suit to the cleaners, they used naptha or a solution with naptha in it to clean it, along with other non washable clothes. Find that out, it was a short cut for many to clean their non washables themselves with a small can of naptha (my Dad kept "Energine" around when I was a kid) to hit spots and possible stains. Naptha was widely used as a utility cleaner in the manufacturing and industrial community as well. There are too many other cleaners that do the job better and safer these days for those applications.

But naptha still has its place. Go to a real paint store (not Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) like Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore and get some real, first brew naptha. Most naptha is recycled cleaning agents from heavy industry and is a mix of all kinds of stuff (as most thinners are). This isn't illegal as "naptha" is simply a trade name, not an exact product. However, the stuff you get at the paint store will be minimally blended, so there will be much less chance of that product reacting with anything that might be left behind on your furniture.

Robert,

Checking the local paint retailers, Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, and Pratt&Lambert,
Sherwin Williams is the only one that carries naphtha - currently offering two types -
VM&P and hi-flash (100 flash, Solvesso 100).

Per the SW literature, the hi-flash is slow evaporating - 40 minutes to evaporate 90% vs 4
minutes for the VM&P, with a solvent strength of 5 out of 10 vs. 2 for the VM&P.

Appears the hi-flash is the much hotter / stronger of the two solvents. Not sure if it
would be hot enough to lift the finish - which would be a disaster for my application.

The SW product summary sheet for the VM&P product also states it is a weak, fast
evaporating, and very good for solvent cleaning when using alkyd topcoats.

Which of the two would you suggest for removing furniture wax / polish?

Apparently Energine has been discontinued and there is no similar replacement product.

Thanks again!

Doug

" wrote:



Doug - a one in a million chance I am here! I don't get to this group much so good for both of us.

The naptha you have found is Varnish Maker's and Painter's Naptha. It is not known for its purity, but rather for the fact that it will thin varnish and paint successfully. It allows a very wide spectrum of ingredients and mixtures of the same to hit the lowest common denominator of simply being able to thin an oil based product.

Naptha has the "not to be used as a cleaner" warning posted in it as there were several different solutions of naptha used for decades as dry cleaning fluids. So when you took your dress suit to the cleaners, they used naptha or a solution with naptha in it to clean it, along with other non washable clothes. Find that out, it was a short cut for many to clean their non washables themselves with a small can of naptha (my Dad kept "Energine" around when I was a kid) to hit spots and possible stains. Naptha was widely used as a utility cleaner in the manufacturing and industrial community as well. There are too many other cleaners that do the job better and safer these days for those applications.

But naptha still has its place. Go to a real paint store (not Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) like Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore and get some real, first brew naptha. Most naptha is recycled cleaning agents from heavy industry and is a mix of all kinds of stuff (as most thinners are). This isn't illegal as "naptha" is simply a trade name, not an exact product. However, the stuff you get at the paint store will be minimally blended, so there will be much less chance of that product reacting with anything that might be left behind on your furniture.

Hello All,

I'm jumping on this late but, hopefully, with a positive contribution.

I am a member of a woodworking club on Long Island and we are very fortunate to have a finishing expert among our members. Mac Simmons has graciously shared a wealth of knowledge among our members and has a website where others can access his expertise. I encourage you to go to:
http://www.macsimmons.com/
and check it out.

I am to be grouped with those that don't give enough pre-thought and planning for the finishing process and find I'm rushing the finishing so I can be, well, finished. I need to allow more time. It is, I hope, a skill to be developed further in 2014. I also need to read posts more carefully to see who is posting experience and who is repeating what they read elsewhere. Both are valuable but, of course, the former more so.

Happy 2014 to our REC family.

Bill

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 9:06:10 AM UTC-5, Doug wrote:
What methods / products are suggested for removing accumulated wax / polish from

furniture? Item in question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe the finish to

be lacquer.



Thanks.



Doug

On 1/3/2014 12:46 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello All,

I'm jumping on this late but, hopefully, with a positive contribution.

I am a member of a woodworking club on Long Island and we are very fortunate to have a finishing expert among our members. Mac Simmons has graciously shared a wealth of knowledge among our members and has a website where others can access his expertise. I encourage you to go to:
http://www.macsimmons.com/
and check it out.

I am to be grouped with those that don't give enough pre-thought and planning for the finishing process and find I'm rushing the finishing so I can be, well, finished. I need to allow more time. It is, I hope, a skill to be developed further in 2014. I also need to read posts more carefully to see who is posting experience and who is repeating what they read elsewhere. Both are valuable but, of course, the former more so.

Happy 2014 to our REC family.

Bill

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 9:06:10 AM UTC-5, Doug wrote:
What methods / products are suggested for removing accumulated wax / polish from

furniture? Item in question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe the finish to

be lacquer.



Thanks.



Doug

Just remember that the step of applying a finish is really the beginning
of an important step, one not to be rushed.

Leon wrote:

Just remember that the step of applying a finish is really the
beginning of an important step, one not to be rushed.

Nah... Just step back and spray the stuff on. Heavy!

--

-Mike-

On Friday, January 3, 2014 6:00:10 PM UTC-6, Mike Marlow wrote:

beginning of an important step, one not to be rushed.



Nah... Just step back and spray the stuff on. Heavy!

-Mike-

Hell yeah! That's was compound was invented to fix, right? LOL...

Robert

Thanks Bill.

Look forward to seeing Mac Simmons' website.

Essence of what I have benefited from others on rec.woodworking regarding finishing is
that there are a myriad of ways to botch a finish - from not selecting the proper
materials for the wood, to application techniques.

Being remanded to the belt sander for lack of proper planning is to be avoided at all
cost.

Doug


Bill Leonhardt wrote:

Hello All,

I'm jumping on this late but, hopefully, with a positive contribution.

I am a member of a woodworking club on Long Island and we are very fortunate to have a finishing expert among our members. Mac Simmons has graciously shared a wealth of knowledge among our members and has a website where others can access his expertise. I encourage you to go to:
http://www.macsimmons.com/
and check it out.

I am to be grouped with those that don't give enough pre-thought and planning for the finishing process and find I'm rushing the finishing so I can be, well, finished. I need to allow more time. It is, I hope, a skill to be developed further in 2014. I also need to read posts more carefully to see who is posting experience and who is repeating what they read elsewhere. Both are valuable but, of course, the former more so.

Happy 2014 to our REC family.

Bill

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 9:06:10 AM UTC-5, Doug wrote:
What methods / products are suggested for removing accumulated wax / polish from

furniture? Item in question is an early 60s console stereo cabinet, believe the finish to

be lacquer.



Thanks.



Doug

On Friday, January 3, 2014 12:46:36 PM UTC-6, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
Hello All,



I'm jumping on this late but, hopefully, with a positive contribution.



I am a member of a woodworking club on Long Island and we are very fortunate to have a finishing expert among our members. Mac Simmons has graciously shared a wealth of knowledge among our members and has a website where others can access his expertise. I encourage you to go to:

http://www.macsimmons.com/

and check it out.

Bill, there are some nuggets there worth mining, but you should let folks know that the site heavily promotes his book/CD (absolutely nothing wrong with that) and that some of the links to processes redirect you to different sites than his (not good) without warning.

Heads up to the boys, here.

Robert