I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop
doing -- hints?
Thx.

On Tue, 20 Aug 2013 23:53:17 GMT, ts wrote:
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method.

I'd confirm that the square is really square. Even the slightest
outage on the square will magnify on a blade and even more so on a
fence.

On Tue, 20 Aug 2013 19:59:31 -0400, wrote:
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method.

I'd confirm that the square is really square. Even the slightest
outage on the square will magnify on a blade and even more so on a
fence.

I'd also add that situations like these are where you really want to
have a decent fixed square on hand. Worth every penny when you want
something to be accurate.

On 8/20/2013 6:53 PM, ts wrote:
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop
doing -- hints?
Thx.


I do not know anything, but if it happened to me, I would change the
blade. I believe that the blade is more dull on one side than it is on
the other, causing a twist in the blade as you cut.

"ts" wrote:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be
getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on
causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can
tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the
same
method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the
fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems
to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember
having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to
start /stop
doing -- hints?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Sounds like a set up problem to me.

If you are working alone is work piece fully supported by runout
table(s) during cut?

The following assumes that trunnion provides a parallel blade mounting
surface to miter slot.

1- Make sure your blade is parallel to miter slot on T/S.
2- Make sure your fence is parallel to miter slot on T/S.
3- Make sure your blade is perpendicular to the table.
4- Make sure the splitter is working properly and INSTALLED.

All these tests can be performed using an inexpensive dial indicator
and some home made jigs.

Good luck and have fun.

Lew

On 8/20/2013 6:53 PM, ts wrote:
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method.

;~) Well hopefully your fence is not square to the slot, it should be
parallel. But that is probably what you meant.

What condition is your saw in? Could worn bearings be a possibility.

Secondly you mention that the edge is concave, is that bowed along its
length or is the middle of the cut deeper than the top and bottom sides
of the material?

Are you using a think kerf blade? If it is a very likely culprit
especially if it is not sharp.

Are you buying quality lumber? Case hardened wood will bow after being
cut although this does not explain the problem with plywood.

My first guess is that you are using a think kerf blade and that is
giving you problems.






What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop
doing -- hints?
Thx.

On 8/20/2013 8:57 PM, Leon wrote:

;~) Well hopefully your fence is not square to the slot, it should be
parallel. But that is probably what you meant.

What condition is your saw in? Could worn bearings be a possibility.

Secondly you mention that the edge is concave, is that bowed along its
length or is the middle of the cut deeper than the top and bottom sides
of the material?

Are you using a think kerf blade? If it is a very likely culprit
especially if it is not sharp.

Are you buying quality lumber? Case hardened wood will bow after being
cut although this does not explain the problem with plywood.

My first guess is that you are using a think kerf blade and that is
giving you problems.

I thought I knew a little about saws but then saw your reference to a
"think kerf blade" What is it.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 8/20/2013 8:57 PM, Leon wrote:

;~) Well hopefully your fence is not square to the slot, it should be
parallel. But that is probably what you meant.

What condition is your saw in? Could worn bearings be a possibility.

Secondly you mention that the edge is concave, is that bowed along its
length or is the middle of the cut deeper than the top and bottom sides
of the material?

Are you using a think kerf blade? If it is a very likely culprit
especially if it is not sharp.

Are you buying quality lumber? Case hardened wood will bow after being
cut although this does not explain the problem with plywood.

My first guess is that you are using a think kerf blade and that is
giving you problems.

I thought I knew a little about saws but then saw your reference to a
"think kerf blade" What is it.
Roughly speaking, "kerf" refers to the thickness of the saw blade. One
may be able to cut faster with a "thin kerf" blade or make due with a
less powerful saw by using thin kerf blades. They are, of course, more
flexible. Based on my very limited experience, this is a big negative,
and I'm not planning to purchase any more thin kerf blades unless the
application calls for it (cutting veneer or similar).

Bill

Bill wrote in
:

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 8/20/2013 8:57 PM, Leon wrote:

;~) Well hopefully your fence is not square to the slot, it should
be parallel. But that is probably what you meant.

What condition is your saw in? Could worn bearings be a
possibility.

Secondly you mention that the edge is concave, is that bowed along
its length or is the middle of the cut deeper than the top and
bottom sides of the material?

Are you using a think kerf blade? If it is a very likely culprit
especially if it is not sharp.

Are you buying quality lumber? Case hardened wood will bow after
being cut although this does not explain the problem with plywood.

My first guess is that you are using a think kerf blade and that is
giving you problems.

I thought I knew a little about saws but then saw your reference to a
"think kerf blade" What is it.
Roughly speaking, "kerf" refers to the thickness of the saw blade. One
may be able to cut faster with a "thin kerf" blade or make due with a
less powerful saw by using thin kerf blades. They are, of course, more
flexible. Based on my very limited experience, this is a big negative,
and I'm not planning to purchase any more thin kerf blades unless the
application calls for it (cutting veneer or similar).

Bill



That's a "thin kerf blade", but what is a "think kerf blade"? ;-)

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"Puckdropper" wrote:

That's a "thin kerf blade", but what is a "think kerf blade"? ;-)
-----------------------------------------------------
1/8" is standard for a 10" dia blade last time I checked.

Lew

Puckdropper wrote:
Bill wrote in
:

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 8/20/2013 8:57 PM, Leon wrote:
;~) Well hopefully your fence is not square to the slot, it should
be parallel. But that is probably what you meant.

What condition is your saw in? Could worn bearings be a
possibility.

Secondly you mention that the edge is concave, is that bowed along
its length or is the middle of the cut deeper than the top and
bottom sides of the material?

Are you using a think kerf blade? If it is a very likely culprit
especially if it is not sharp.

Are you buying quality lumber? Case hardened wood will bow after
being cut although this does not explain the problem with plywood.

My first guess is that you are using a think kerf blade and that is
giving you problems.
I thought I knew a little about saws but then saw your reference to a
"think kerf blade" What is it.
Roughly speaking, "kerf" refers to the thickness of the saw blade. One
may be able to cut faster with a "thin kerf" blade or make due with a
less powerful saw by using thin kerf blades. They are, of course, more
flexible. Based on my very limited experience, this is a big negative,
and I'm not planning to purchase any more thin kerf blades unless the
application calls for it (cutting veneer or similar).

Bill


That's a "thin kerf blade", but what is a "think kerf blade"? ;-)

Puckdropper



Everyone's a comedian!

In article m, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com says...


That's a "thin kerf blade", but what is a "think kerf blade"? ;-)


I thought it was a pretty good typo.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 8/20/2013 8:57 PM, Leon wrote:

;~) Well hopefully your fence is not square to the slot, it should be
parallel. But that is probably what you meant.

What condition is your saw in? Could worn bearings be a possibility.

Secondly you mention that the edge is concave, is that bowed along its
length or is the middle of the cut deeper than the top and bottom sides
of the material?

Are you using a think kerf blade? If it is a very likely culprit
especially if it is not sharp.

Are you buying quality lumber? Case hardened wood will bow after being
cut although this does not explain the problem with plywood.

My first guess is that you are using a think kerf blade and that is
giving you problems.

I thought I knew a little about saws but then saw your reference to a
"think kerf blade" What is it.

Thin about it a little while.

On Wed, 21 Aug 2013 08:13:35 -0500, Leon wrote:
I thought I knew a little about saws but then saw your reference to a
"think kerf blade" What is it.

Thin about it a little while.

Boooo! Hisss!

wrote:
On Wed, 21 Aug 2013 08:13:35 -0500, Leon wrote:
I thought I knew a little about saws but then saw your reference to a
"think kerf blade" What is it.

Thin about it a little while.

Boooo! Hisss!

:-)

In article ,
ts wrote:
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop
doing -- hints?
Thx.

Sounds like your blade is just slightly out of parallel with the fence
when ripping. Think about cutting a cove on the tables saw and you can
visualize how the edge becomes slightly concave.


--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry W. - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Tue, 20 Aug 2013 23:53:17 GMT, ts wrote:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop
doing -- hints?
Thx.
The stress is coming out of the wood when you cut it. Not sure what
you can do to prevent it. I generally cut oversize and then run it
through the jointer/planer to true it up when I run into the problem
on a batch of lumber.

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop
doing -- hints?
Thx.


The stress is coming out of the wood when you cut it. Not sure what
you can do to prevent it. I generally cut oversize and then run it
through the jointer/planer to true it up when I run into the problem
on a batch of lumber.


Sorry - I can't see this as the problem when ripping 2 inch solid
.. or plywood ..
Seems like a blade/fence issue.
jt

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On Wed, 21 Aug 2013 20:12:46 -0400, wrote:



I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop
doing -- hints?
Thx.


The stress is coming out of the wood when you cut it. Not sure what
you can do to prevent it. I generally cut oversize and then run it
through the jointer/planer to true it up when I run into the problem
on a batch of lumber.


Sorry - I can't see this as the problem when ripping 2 inch solid
.. or plywood ..
Seems like a blade/fence issue.
jt

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

I wouldn't rule out a bad blade or bad arbor bearings. I'd start with
a good blade and go from there.

Mike M

Mike M wrote:
On Wed, 21 Aug 2013 20:12:46 -0400, wrote:



I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be
getting dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some
useful advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave
edge on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's
laid on edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a
feather board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot
(as best as i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade
seems to be also - using the same method. What I've noticed is
that the board creeps away from the fence after it is cut. I've
tried putting pressure on the board so it's up against the fence
as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help. The
curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember
having this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I
need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


The stress is coming out of the wood when you cut it. Not sure what
you can do to prevent it. I generally cut oversize and then run it
through the jointer/planer to true it up when I run into the problem
on a batch of lumber.


Sorry - I can't see this as the problem when ripping 2 inch solid
.. or plywood ..
Seems like a blade/fence issue.
jt

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

I wouldn't rule out a bad blade or bad arbor bearings. I'd start with
a good blade and go from there.


Yeahbut - he's got a Forrester. Unless his wife sat on it, or he backed
over it with his truck, you just don't get much better than that. I think
it's all in the fence. I suspect it is not parallel to the blade. I
suspect that a lot.

--

-Mike-

On 8/22/2013 9:27 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Mike M wrote:
On Wed, 21 Aug 2013 20:12:46 -0400, wrote:



I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be
getting dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some
useful advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave
edge on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's
laid on edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a
feather board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot
(as best as i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade
seems to be also - using the same method. What I've noticed is
that the board creeps away from the fence after it is cut. I've
tried putting pressure on the board so it's up against the fence
as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help. The
curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember
having this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I
need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


The stress is coming out of the wood when you cut it. Not sure what
you can do to prevent it. I generally cut oversize and then run it
through the jointer/planer to true it up when I run into the problem
on a batch of lumber.


Sorry - I can't see this as the problem when ripping 2 inch solid
.. or plywood ..
Seems like a blade/fence issue.
jt

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

I wouldn't rule out a bad blade or bad arbor bearings. I'd start with
a good blade and go from there.


Yeahbut - he's got a Forrester.


Watt's a Subaru got to do with anything?



Unless his wife sat on it, or he backed
over it with his truck, you just don't get much better than that. I think
it's all in the fence. I suspect it is not parallel to the blade. I
suspect that a lot.

Mike M wrote in
:


I wouldn't rule out a bad blade or bad arbor bearings. I'd start with
a good blade and go from there.

Maybe so... but it sounds like an alignment issue to me. The first steps I'd take, in order, a
1. Ensure the miter slot is parallel to the blade.
2. Ensure the fence is parallel to the miter slot.
3. Ensure the splitter is parallel to, and centered on, the blade.

If the problem still exists, then I'd look next at the blade, then at the arbor bearings (as
indicated by axial runout on the blade).

Another thing worth looking at, perhaps: if this is a thin-kerf blade, maybe the splitter is
thicker than the kerf, and is pulling the wood to one side? The wood should not (quite) touch
the splitter on a rip cut.

"ts" wrote in message
9.20...
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

No square is accurate enough, imho. Use a very straight sharp edged
straight edge at least the width of the saw hold it against a and a blade
with absolutely no wobble. Thousandths count. Take a steel rule with
64thson it and adjust the table with the miter slot and straightedge to
within half a 64th. Once done, this adjustment should hold for a very long
time.
Now, line up the rip fence to the miter slot. Make sure it is straight
and NOT SLIPPING. Set the darn measuring pointer gauge while you are at it!
;-)

jim in nc

"ts" wrote in message
9.20
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and
must be getting dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real
and I'd like some useful advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a
concave edge on both solid and plywood. The curve is
noticable when it's laid on edge on the table saw table.
I've tried with and without a feather board and splitter.
The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can
tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be
also - using the same method.

What I've noticed is that
the board creeps away from the fence after it is cut.

The fence isn't square to the blade, back end of the fence is farther away.

Try cutting a board and clamping the offcut to the table without moving it.
Lower the blade, move the fence to the offcut's edge and adjust it to be
parallel with the offcut.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"ts" wrote in message
9.20...
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method.

Make sure the blade is parallel to the fence rather than the slot by
measuring the leading edge of the blade and the trailing edge in relation to
the fence.

On 8/21/2013 11:22 AM, tom wrote:

"ts" wrote in message
9.20...
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on
causes and cures.

The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method.

Make sure the blade is parallel to the fence rather than the slot by
measuring the leading edge of the blade and the trailing edge in
relation to the fence.




FWIW you do actually want the fence parallel to the blade. Having said
that make that adjustment AFTER making the slot parallel to the blade.
If the fence is made parallel to the blade before making the slot
parallel to the blade this will all be lost after making the slot
parallel to the blade. Yuo want the miter gauge to slide parallel to
the blade also. Adjusting the slot in most all cases throws off a
previous fence adjustment.

On 8/21/2013 3:42 PM, Leon wrote:
On 8/21/2013 11:22 AM, tom wrote:

"ts" wrote in message
9.20...
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on
causes and cures.

The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method.

Make sure the blade is parallel to the fence rather than the slot by
measuring the leading edge of the blade and the trailing edge in
relation to the fence.




FWIW you do actually want the fence parallel to the blade. Having said
that make that adjustment AFTER making the slot parallel to the blade.
If the fence is made parallel to the blade before making the slot
parallel to the blade this will all be lost after making the slot
parallel to the blade. Yuo want the miter gauge to slide parallel to
the blade also. Adjusting the slot in most all cases throws off a
previous fence adjustment.

There are some table saws that you must first make the blade parallel to
the slot. The principal part of these saws is the cast iron table.
The slots are machined in and are not adjustable.

With these saws both fence and the blade must be parallel to the slot.

Once every thing is parallel, the miter gauge can be squared by putting
into the slot and pushing it against the edge of the table.

On Wed, 21 Aug 2013 16:22:30 -0400, Keith Nuttle wrote:

Once every thing is parallel, the miter gauge can be squared by putting
into the slot and pushing it against the edge of the table.

I've seen some pretty rough cast iron table edges :-). Perhaps the old
cut a board and flip one half over trick might work better in those cases.

And I always do the squaring process by squaring the blade to the slot,
and then the fence to the slot. Voila! - the blade is parallel to the
fence.

But if you tend to use either slot as seems best, be sure the slots are
parallel to each other. DAMHIKT.

--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.

On 8/21/2013 8:17 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Wed, 21 Aug 2013 16:22:30 -0400, Keith Nuttle wrote:

Once every thing is parallel, the miter gauge can be squared by putting
into the slot and pushing it against the edge of the table.

I've seen some pretty rough cast iron table edges :-). Perhaps the old
cut a board and flip one half over trick might work better in those cases.

And I always do the squaring process by squaring the blade to the slot,
and then the fence to the slot. Voila! - the blade is parallel to the
fence.

But if you tend to use either slot as seems best, be sure the slots are
parallel to each other. DAMHIKT.


It works on my 1969 10 inch Craftsman table saw.

I do all of my high tech alignment witt a 10 inch solid triangle and the
saws cast iron table. The triangle was about $10 and checked for
accuracy using the table slots.

What do I need to start /stop

doing -- hints?

Thx.

This is a problem with the equipment if you are keeping the boad against the fence during the cut. Blade is flexing or more likely trunion\motor mount is flexing because of something loose, bad\weak design, worn bearing, etc.

Physics dictates that if you keep the board against the fence not much else matters to get a straight cut. Not necessarily parallel to the edge but at least straight.

Something is flexing\moving and the distance between the blade and fence is changing through the span of the cut.

On 8/20/2013 4:53 PM, ts wrote:
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.

All the suggestions you will get forget to ask the one question:

What table saw are we talking about ?
With what fence ?

It sounds like a machine setup issue but knowing what saw, makes
a world of difference in the answer(s).

Pat Barber wrote in
:

On 8/20/2013 4:53 PM, ts wrote:
I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be
getting dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some
useful advice on causes and cures.

All the suggestions you will get forget to ask the one question:

What table saw are we talking about ?
With what fence ?

It sounds like a machine setup issue but knowing what saw, makes
a world of difference in the answer(s).

It's a Delta contractors saw (circa 1992) with a shop fox (cheap
upgrade) fence. I have a buddy coming over tonight so I'll get him to try
it. I've also thought about the blade -- it's a Forrestt. I believe I've
tried the Delta supplied blade with the same results.

I like the flex idea since the saw is old. Don't they last forever .
Maybe it's time i can talk to my SO into a Sawstop.

4 close misses - they were small accidents. although with the last one
immeadiate care did have to call the surgeon in to suture my thumb by the
nail and nail bed. The tech, about my son's age, said "you're probably
going to be like my dad and go back home and continue working. Aren't
you?"

ts wrote:

4 close misses - they were small accidents. although with the last one
immeadiate care did have to call the surgeon in to suture my thumb by the
nail and nail bed.

Did you deduce anything that helps make a 5th or 6th "small accident"
seem unlikely?
I'm on the side that is hoping you did (like everyone else here, I believe).

Bill

On 8/21/2013 4:49 PM, ts wrote:
It's a Delta contractors saw (circa 1992) with a shop fox (cheap
upgrade) fence. I have a buddy coming over tonight so I'll get him to try
it. I've also thought about the blade -- it's a Forrestt. I believe I've
tried the Delta supplied blade with the same results.

Contractor saw are famous for getting knocked out of alignment.

They can also be a stone cold bitch to get back in alignment.

Are you familiar with the process of setting up the alignment ?

Here is a thread on the subject:

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fi...contractor-saw

and

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9OeVk8-Y3M which is a excellent way
to learn how with Jerry Cole who is the guy who has been selling
the Dooby table saw jig for years at woodworking shows.

http://www.amazon.com/PALS-CTS-align.../dp/B0036B4OFW

On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 13:15:55 -0700, Pat Barber
wrote:

On 8/21/2013 4:49 PM, ts wrote:
It's a Delta contractors saw (circa 1992) with a shop fox (cheap
upgrade) fence. I have a buddy coming over tonight so I'll get him to try
it. I've also thought about the blade -- it's a Forrestt. I believe I've
tried the Delta supplied blade with the same results.

Contractor saw are famous for getting knocked out of alignment.

They can also be a stone cold bitch to get back in alignment.

Are you familiar with the process of setting up the alignment ?

Here is a thread on the subject:

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fi...contractor-saw

and

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9OeVk8-Y3M which is a excellent way
to learn how with Jerry Cole who is the guy who has been selling
the Dooby table saw jig for years at woodworking shows.

http://www.amazon.com/PALS-CTS-align.../dp/B0036B4OFW


Check out Dave Woolands tips at the "saw shop".

This one in particular:

http://store.thesawshop.com/catalogue/docs/tune-up.pdf

When Dave sets up a saw, it is PERFECT. He can make even a rough saw
work very well (as long as it's not worn out)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9OeVk8-Y3M which is a excellent way
to learn how with Jerry Cole who is the guy who has been selling
the Dooby table saw jig for years at woodworking shows.

A small correction...that is a "Dubby Jig" not a "Dooby Jig".

and a suggestion for a alignment tool.

Look at this product:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm
and his suggestions:

ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather
board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as
i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also -
using the same method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away
from the fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the
board so it's up against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing
I've tried seems to help. The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and
larger. I don't remember having this problem earlier in my
woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.

On 8/30/2013 9:26 PM, ts wrote:
ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather
board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as
i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also -
using the same method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away
from the fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the
board so it's up against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing
I've tried seems to help. The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and
larger. I don't remember having this problem earlier in my
woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.


I do not quite understand what you found. You say the blade is 0.02
??Inches?? out of parallel with the miter slot. Then you say it is
further out with the ??Backside??

For discussion I define the Front the side, as the side of the blade
closes to you when you look at the thin side of the blade. Back side the
one furthest away from you.

If it is parallel the front side of the blade and the back side should
be the same distance from the mitre slot. As I read what you have
written there is a difference of 0.02??inches?? between the front and
the back.

__________________________________________________ ________ Slot

Back of blade __________________________ front of blade

Blade


Your comment about the backside is confusing.

To do it accurately an absolutely flat disk should be attached as a
blade on the arbor. In this way the set of the teeth will not confuse
the measurements.

Keith Nuttle wrote:


To do it accurately an absolutely flat disk should be attached as a
blade on the arbor. In this way the set of the teeth will not confuse
the measurements.

Good point. There's YouTube videos on this stuff, but most of us mark a
tooth with a sharpie and rotate that tooth to both positions (front and
back), so we're always measuring off of the same tooth.

--

-Mike-

On 8/30/2013 9:35 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 8/30/2013 9:26 PM, ts wrote:
ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather
board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as
i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also -
using the same method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away
from the fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the
board so it's up against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing
I've tried seems to help. The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and
larger. I don't remember having this problem earlier in my
woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel
with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the
fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.


I do not quite understand what you found. You say the blade is 0.02
??Inches?? out of parallel with the miter slot. Then you say it is
further out with the ??Backside??

For discussion I define the Front the side, as the side of the blade
closes to you when you look at the thin side of the blade. Back side the
one furthest away from you.

If it is parallel the front side of the blade and the back side should
be the same distance from the mitre slot. As I read what you have
written there is a difference of 0.02??inches?? between the front and
the back.

__________________________________________________ ________ Slot

Back of blade __________________________ front of blade

Blade


Your comment about the backside is confusing.

To do it accurately an absolutely flat disk should be attached as a
blade on the arbor. In this way the set of the teeth will not confuse
the measurements.


Actually you can mark a blade tip measure that tip with the tip at the
front or back of the table opening and then rotate the blade so that
that same marked tip is in the opposite location.

Just make certain you use the same blade tooth tip.