ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather
board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as
i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also -
using the same method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away
from the fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the
board so it's up against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing
I've tried seems to help. The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and
larger. I don't remember having this problem earlier in my
woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.

On 8/30/2013 9:26 PM, ts wrote:
ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather
board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as
i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also -
using the same method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away
from the fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the
board so it's up against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing
I've tried seems to help. The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and
larger. I don't remember having this problem earlier in my
woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.


I do not quite understand what you found. You say the blade is 0.02
??Inches?? out of parallel with the miter slot. Then you say it is
further out with the ??Backside??

For discussion I define the Front the side, as the side of the blade
closes to you when you look at the thin side of the blade. Back side the
one furthest away from you.

If it is parallel the front side of the blade and the back side should
be the same distance from the mitre slot. As I read what you have
written there is a difference of 0.02??inches?? between the front and
the back.

__________________________________________________ ________ Slot

Back of blade __________________________ front of blade

Blade


Your comment about the backside is confusing.

To do it accurately an absolutely flat disk should be attached as a
blade on the arbor. In this way the set of the teeth will not confuse
the measurements.

ts wrote:

An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel
with the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I
adjust the fence to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should
be ok, at least in my thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts
are done on my sliding miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.

..020 is a lot to be out. Most of us try for under .004. (At least I
believe that's what I was told when I first undertook to align my
Craftsman). Getting the blade parallel is a bit of work, depending on what
type of saw you have. Contractor saws typically have the the trundle bolted
to the underside of the table which means you have to remove the table from
the body of the saw. Often, the mounting flats where the bolts secure the
trundle to the table are not machined perfectly flat, so you have to be
careful when tightening them down after making adjustments, or the trundle
will shift. Since we're talking only a couple of thousanths here, any shift
is going to be too much shift. It's not as bad a job as you may think, but
it does take attention to detail, check, re-check, re-check, etc. to ensure
that you end up with a properly aligned blade. That's a good time to clean
up all the threads for the tilt and the raise/lower as well, since
everything is accessable.

You'd probably spend a couple of hours going the full route. Since you're
just going to rip - I'd do just as you suggest above and just align the
fence to the blade. I'd try really hard for dead-nut, and settle for a thou
or two. I believe conventional wisdom around here is that anything over
..004 is going to start showing problems for you. It should be easy enough
to bring your fence in perfectly - much less effort than aligning the blade.

--

-Mike-

Keith Nuttle wrote:


To do it accurately an absolutely flat disk should be attached as a
blade on the arbor. In this way the set of the teeth will not confuse
the measurements.

Good point. There's YouTube videos on this stuff, but most of us mark a
tooth with a sharpie and rotate that tooth to both positions (front and
back), so we're always measuring off of the same tooth.

--

-Mike-

"ts" wrote in message
9.20
ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and
must be getting dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real
and I'd like some useful advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a
concave edge on both solid and plywood. The curve is
noticable when it's laid on edge on the table saw
table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as
best as i can tell with an adjustable square) and the
blade seems to be also - using the same method. What
I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the
fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on
the board so it's up against the fence as it enters the
blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help. The curve is
noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember
having this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby.
What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out
of parallel with the mitre slot back side is further out.
Theortically if I adjust the fence to be almost parallel
to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done
on my sliding miter saw.

It certainly would be a good thing to correct but I don't think 1/50 out is
the cause of your problem.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 8/30/2013 9:35 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 8/30/2013 9:26 PM, ts wrote:
ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather
board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as
i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also -
using the same method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away
from the fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the
board so it's up against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing
I've tried seems to help. The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and
larger. I don't remember having this problem earlier in my
woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel
with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the
fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.


I do not quite understand what you found. You say the blade is 0.02
??Inches?? out of parallel with the miter slot. Then you say it is
further out with the ??Backside??

For discussion I define the Front the side, as the side of the blade
closes to you when you look at the thin side of the blade. Back side the
one furthest away from you.

If it is parallel the front side of the blade and the back side should
be the same distance from the mitre slot. As I read what you have
written there is a difference of 0.02??inches?? between the front and
the back.

__________________________________________________ ________ Slot

Back of blade __________________________ front of blade

Blade


Your comment about the backside is confusing.

To do it accurately an absolutely flat disk should be attached as a
blade on the arbor. In this way the set of the teeth will not confuse
the measurements.


Actually you can mark a blade tip measure that tip with the tip at the
front or back of the table opening and then rotate the blade so that
that same marked tip is in the opposite location.

Just make certain you use the same blade tooth tip.

On 8/30/2013 8:26 PM, ts wrote:
ts wrote in
9.20:

I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful
advice on causes and cures.

Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge
on both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on
edge on the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather
board and splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as
i can tell with an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also -
using the same method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away
from the fence after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the
board so it's up against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing
I've tried seems to help. The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and
larger. I don't remember having this problem earlier in my
woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop doing -- hints?
Thx.


An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of parallel with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust the fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least in my
thinking. I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.

I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a real
pain.


Yes it is a pain but you have a problem, and that is how you remedy it.
Set your saw up correctly and your TS will be more accurate than your
Slider.

"ts" wrote:

An update -- I got a dial indicator. The blade is .02 out of
parallel with
the mitre slot back side is further out. Theortically if I adjust
the fence
to be almost parallel to the blade rip cuts should be ok, at least
in my
thinking.
---------------------------------------------
You are in the "close but no cigar" area.
---------------------------------------------
I only rip on the tablesaw, crosscuts are done on my sliding
miter saw.
------------------------------------------------
Accuracy must no be very high on your list.

No way does a sliding miter saw compete with a properly set up T/S.
---------------------------------------------------
I think trying to get the blade parallel with the slot would be a
real
pain.
-----------------------------------------------
Well yes but what that have to do with anything?
--------------------------------------------------

Let's start over.

Get a piece of MDF, anything from 1/2"-3/4" thick.

Cut a 10" x 10" piece, then drill a 5/8" dia hole centered in the
middle.

Use this MDF piece as the flat test blank and insert it onto blade
spindle.

Repeat dial gage measurement front and back, then get back to us.

Lew