Put the first coat of the Maloof oil/poly down the other day on hard maple sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt). Some parts dried a bit rougher than I expected. 0000 steel wool or 400 sandpaper to smooth before the next coat?

Larry

On 5/13/2013 10:07 PM, Gramp's shop wrote:
Put the first coat of the Maloof oil/poly down the other day on hard maple sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt). Some parts dried a bit rougher than I expected. 0000 steel wool or 400 sandpaper to smooth before the next coat?

Larry


What does the can say?

Some finishes require a scuff between coats, some not.

I suspect that it would not hurt either way. You might simply try a
sheet of plain paper wrapped around a small block of wood.

On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:48:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2013 10:07 PM, Gramp's shop wrote: Some parts dried a bit rougher than I expected.

What does the can say? Some finishes require a scuff between coats, some not.

I suspect what Larry is talking about is, when any wetness is applied to raw wood, some wood fibers will rise and, when dry, the raised fibers will feel rough. This may be the roughness he's talking about. If so, sand lightly with 220 grit or you can be a little more firm with 400 grit, to knock down those raised fibers.... and any dust nibs, also.

Steel wool sometimes leaves sanding/pressure streaks, more so than with sand paper, if you're not careful with your sanding.... again, sometimes... especially on flat surfaces. For spindles, curves and the like, steel wool would be my choice.

Beyond rough fiber sanding, do as Leon says and see what the application instructions say about sanding between coats.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:48:31 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 5/13/2013 10:07 PM, Gramp's shop wrote: Some parts dried a bit
rougher than I expected.

What does the can say? Some finishes require a scuff between coats, some not.

I suspect what Larry is talking about is, when any wetness is applied to
raw wood, some wood fibers will rise and, when dry, the raised fibers
will feel rough. This may be the roughness he's talking about. If so,
sand lightly with 220 grit or you can be a little more firm with 400
grit, to knock down those raised fibers.... and any dust nibs, also.

Steel wool sometimes leaves sanding/pressure streaks, more so than with
sand paper, if you're not careful with your sanding.... again,
sometimes... especially on flat surfaces. For spindles, curves and the
like, steel wool would be my choice.

Beyond rough fiber sanding, do as Leon says and see what the application
instructions say about sanding between coats.

Any roughness with this product is the direct result of not effectively
removing the residue from the previous application. When the directions
state to remove all residue, they mean it

It should not happen in the first place, but if not removed, it will
buildup with each successive coat and remain gummy.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 2:02:12 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Any roughness with this product is the direct result of not effectively removing the residue from the previous application. When the directions state to remove all residue, they mean it

As I understand, he hasn't applied a second coat yet. As I understand, he sanded the maple, to 220 grit (smooth as a baby's butt), then applied the first oil coat. When the first coat dried, he discovered there is some roughness on some parts.

I think he needed a comma, in his writing, after the word maple, to understand it the way I understood it, and to understand it the way I think he meant it.
"Put the first coat of the Maloof oil/poly down the other day on hard maple sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt)."

Sonny

On Monday, May 13, 2013 10:07:16 PM UTC-5, Gramp's shop wrote:
Put the first coat of the Maloof oil/poly down the other day on hard maple sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt). Some parts dried a bit rougher than I expected. 0000 steel wool or 400 sandpaper to smooth before the next coat?



Larry

Thanks, guys. An hour with my friendly 0000 and we were back to baby's butt smooth. Put on the second coat ... and will know tomorrow if I was more successful in removing the excess.

Sonny wrote:
On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 2:02:12 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Any roughness with this product is the direct result of not effectively
removing the residue from the previous application. When the directions
state to remove all residue, they mean it

As I understand, he hasn't applied a second coat yet. As I understand,
he sanded the maple, to 220 grit (smooth as a baby's butt), then applied
the first oil coat. When the first coat dried, he discovered there is
some roughness on some parts.

I think he needed a comma, in his writing, after the word maple, to
understand it the way I understood it, and to understand it the way I think he meant it.
"Put the first coat of the Maloof oil/poly down the other day on hard
maple sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt)."

Having put on way North of a few thousand coats of this very product, I
didn't need any punctuation to know exactly what he meant.

Again, for those with no experience with this product, all coats must be
_thoroughly_ wiped off, and left to dry for twenty four hours, before
applying the next coat.

It takes a good deal more _rubbing_ than most would think to get the
desired result, much, much more than simply wiping off the residue from
each coat as you would a gel stain, or other wipe on finishes.

Worth the effort? You decide:

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y0...s2048/HC23.JPG

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 5:14:18 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
Sonny wrote:

On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 2:02:12 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:

Any roughness with this product is the direct result of not effectively

removing the residue from the previous application. When the directions

state to remove all residue, they mean it



As I understand, he hasn't applied a second coat yet. As I understand,

he sanded the maple, to 220 grit (smooth as a baby's butt), then applied

the first oil coat. When the first coat dried, he discovered there is

some roughness on some parts.



I think he needed a comma, in his writing, after the word maple, to

understand it the way I understood it, and to understand it the way I think he meant it.

"Put the first coat of the Maloof oil/poly down the other day on hard

maple sanded to 220 (smooth as a baby's butt)."



Having put on way North of a few thousand coats of this very product, I

didn't need any punctuation to know exactly what he meant.



Again, for those with no experience with this product, all coats must be

_thoroughly_ wiped off, and left to dry for twenty four hours, before

applying the next coat.



It takes a good deal more _rubbing_ than most would think to get the

desired result, much, much more than simply wiping off the residue from

each coat as you would a gel stain, or other wipe on finishes.



Worth the effort? You decide:



http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y0...s2048/HC23.JPG



--

www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

Hey, Karl ...

My key takeaway was "rub" versus "wipe." Coat one was the latter and coat two was after receiving your advice. Good result on coat two. BTW, a comma after "maple" in my original post would have changed the meaning to instruct the reader that I had sanded to 220 after applying the finish. Not the case.

Thanks, again, for the good tip. And, that chest is beautiful!

Larry

Gramp's shop wrote:


And, that chest is beautiful!


I said that one time and got slapped in the face...

--

-Mike-