As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.


There are a few items like that sold for rescue work. Saws and such
where the small battery packs don't last long enough to finish rapidly.
Also a few others.

--
Steve W.

John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.

Den 22-01-2013 01:49, John Doe skrev:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries.

Dremel is owned by: Bosch ;-)
Look at the copyright line at the very bottom of this page:
http://www.dremel.com/Pages/default.aspx



--
Uffe

On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 08:47:30 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.

Replace it with a male plug..and put your transformer and rectifier in
a box with a power cord and plug for the wall.

Its much easier to find a place to heat sink and mount in a small
box..then it is to find a place in the drill.

Seriously

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Gunner wrote:
On Tue, 22 Jan 2013 08:47:30 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and
replacing the dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and
small rectifier circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool
gives out, AND I have access to 120v, I can keep going with only a
small inconvience.

Replace it with a male plug..and put your transformer and rectifier in
a box with a power cord and plug for the wall.

Its much easier to find a place to heat sink and mount in a small
box..then it is to find a place in the drill.


Good idea. Thanks.

"Steve W." csr684 NOTyahoo.com wrote:

John Doe wrote:

As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.


There are a few items like that sold for rescue work. Saws and such
where the small battery packs don't last long enough to finish rapidly.
Also a few others.

Any pictures? Any names? Any keywords? Ever see one?

Uffe Bærentsen leiti_FJERNES_ hotmail.com wrote:

John Doe skrev:

As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries.

Dremel is owned by: Bosch ;-)

Okay...

--





Look at the copyright line at the very bottom of this page:
http://www.dremel.com/Pages/default.aspx

On Jan 22, 9:47*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.

Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
is easily set with 2 resistors.

On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 22:18:28 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
(in article
):

On Jan 22, 9:47*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.

Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
is easily set with 2 resistors.

Make sure the motor draw doesn't exceed 3 amps (most battery operated tools
do just that at peak loads). The "T" cased regulators will require a
substantial heat sink to operate continuously over 1 amp. If I remember
correctly, they have a typical voltage drop of 1.2V.

I posted a picture a while back of a Dewalt drill (12volt I believe) fitted
with a switching power supply built into the battery pack. A nice way to
swap between cordless and corded.

Also consider the large number of cheap switching power supplies on the
market. I use 12V laptop chargers (6 amp) for LED cabinet lighting. They have
nice, durable cases and can be had for $10 on sale from a number of places
(mcmelectronics.com for one)

You can also get a number of different voltage 'wall-wart' type switchers for
real cheap.
Unless you have a suitable transformer (and case) handy, going with a
switcher will provide more power that a linear supply in a smaller package.

-Bruce

On Monday, January 21, 2013 2:49:44 PM UTC-10, John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to

use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the

batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs

into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the

battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and

cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit

in my pocket.



Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is

extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery

stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex

shaft.



I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad

stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an

Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.



Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a

big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned

about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for

a rotary tool.

A few years ago Milwaukee came out with a drill that used batteries and was able to use an adapter that attached where the battery was inserted and could be plugged into an outlet. I don't remember was they called it so couldn't find via Google.

On Sat, 26 Jan 2013 08:29:34 -0700, Bruce wrote:

On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 22:18:28 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
(in article
):

On Jan 22, 9:47*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.

Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
is easily set with 2 resistors.

Make sure the motor draw doesn't exceed 3 amps (most battery operated tools
do just that at peak loads). The "T" cased regulators will require a
substantial heat sink to operate continuously over 1 amp. If I remember
correctly, they have a typical voltage drop of 1.2V.

I posted a picture a while back of a Dewalt drill (12volt I believe) fitted
with a switching power supply built into the battery pack. A nice way to
swap between cordless and corded.

Also consider the large number of cheap switching power supplies on the
market. I use 12V laptop chargers (6 amp) for LED cabinet lighting. They have
nice, durable cases and can be had for $10 on sale from a number of places
(mcmelectronics.com for one)

You can also get a number of different voltage 'wall-wart' type switchers for
real cheap.
Unless you have a suitable transformer (and case) handy, going with a
switcher will provide more power that a linear supply in a smaller package.

-Bruce

As for Computer Power Supplies...one may find them free or nearly so
by simply looking in the phone book for "computer recycliers"

Several that I visit regularly will have several cubic Yards of them
on hand, ready to be run through the shredders and I can take a
clothes basket full of them for little or nothing

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

On Jan 26, 10:29*am, Bruce wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 22:18:28 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
(in article
):









On Jan 22, 9:47 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing the
dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.

Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
is easily set with 2 resistors.

Make sure the motor draw doesn't exceed 3 amps (most battery operated tools
do just that at peak loads). The "T" cased regulators will require a
substantial heat sink to operate continuously over 1 amp. If I remember
correctly, they have a typical voltage drop of 1.2V.

Drawing more than 3 amps will just shut down the regulator until
load is removed. Adding a pass transistor (or several) should remedy
the problem.

I posted a picture a while back of a Dewalt drill (12volt I believe) fitted
with a switching power supply *built into the battery pack. A nice way to
swap between cordless and corded.

Also consider the large number of cheap switching power supplies on the
market. I use 12V laptop chargers (6 amp) for LED cabinet lighting. They have
nice, durable cases and can be had for $10 on sale from a number of places
(mcmelectronics.com for one)

You can also get a number of different voltage 'wall-wart' type switchers for
real cheap.
Unless you have a suitable transformer (and case) handy, going with a
switcher will provide more power that a linear supply in a smaller package.

-Bruce

What does a cheap auto battery charger go for? Handy for other
things besides powering a drill, such as derusting old iron.

On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 00:40:16 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
(in article
):

On Jan 26, 10:29*am, Bruce wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jan 2013 22:18:28 -0700, Father Haskell wrote
(in article
):









On Jan 22, 9:47 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
John Doe wrote:
As mentioned many moons ago... I modified a Dremel rotary tool to
use Bosch batteries. Bosch includes a real charger, and the
batteries last longer per charge. The battery plugs and unplugs
into a wire that goes to the rotary tool. So the weight of the
battery is not felt at the tool. It's like both corded and
cordless, the battery is carried and must rest on something or sit
in my pocket.

Have used it many times. Works great. They rotary tool is
extremely light and easy to handle/control, without the battery
stuck into the case. Much easier to control than using a flex
shaft.

I'm not suggesting the idea is novel concept. Long ago, my dad
stuck a light on the barrel of a rifle. The battery was kept in an
Army belt, with a wire going to a plug in the stock of the rifle.

Any cordless (but wired) tools offered like that? Might not be a
big deal when using a power drill, when you might be concerned
about sudden torque damaging your wrist or arm. But it's great for
a rotary tool.

I've considered opening the battery-box of a cordless tool and replacing
the
dead battery pack with a suitably-sized transfomer and small rectifier
circuit. That way, if the charge on the working tool gives out, AND I have
access to 120v, I can keep going with only a small inconvience.

Pack the box with supercapacitors or an LM350-based linear supply.
The LM350 (beefier, 3 amp version of the LM317T regulator) voltage
is easily set with 2 resistors.

Make sure the motor draw doesn't exceed 3 amps (most battery operated tools
do just that at peak loads). The "T" cased regulators will require a
substantial heat sink to operate continuously over 1 amp. If I remember
correctly, they have a typical voltage drop of 1.2V.

Drawing more than 3 amps will just shut down the regulator until
load is removed. Adding a pass transistor (or several) should remedy
the problem.

I posted a picture a while back of a Dewalt drill (12volt I believe) fitted
with a switching power supply *built into the battery pack. A nice way to
swap between cordless and corded.

Also consider the large number of cheap switching power supplies on the
market. I use 12V laptop chargers (6 amp) for LED cabinet lighting. They
have
nice, durable cases and can be had for $10 on sale from a number of places
(mcmelectronics.com for one)

You can also get a number of different voltage 'wall-wart' type switchers
for
real cheap.
Unless you have a suitable transformer (and case) handy, going with a
switcher will provide more power that a linear supply in a smaller package.

-Bruce

What does a cheap auto battery charger go for? Handy for other
things besides powering a drill, such as derusting old iron.


Not exactly what I'd call portable, but you can get battery chargers (new)
for about $10
They usually have a funky voltage regulation curve so speed control may act
weird but it would be worth trying.

-Bruce