In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig

I got a CMT 811.127.11B to use with this jig.
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-811-127-11B-Pattern-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000P4O4K8


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/3/2013 5:49 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig

Looks like a piece of furniture ... sooo much better than using a guide
bushing, IMO.

Well done ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

-MIKE- wrote:

In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood
whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his
jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig
--------------------------------------------------
Very neat.

Lew

On 1/3/13 10:15 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/3/2013 5:49 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig

Looks like a piece of furniture ... sooo much better than using a guide
bushing, IMO.

Well done ...


Only glitch was in the bit. The set screw for the bearing collar was a
touch proud and put the slightest little indent in the rail. It doesn't
seem to effect performance and since it's higher than the bearing will
ever likely go, I don't think it'll be an issue.

I filed down the set screw so it sit inside the collar, now.

CMT will be getting an email. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/3/13 11:08 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:

In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood
whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his
jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig
--------------------------------------------------
Very neat.

Lew


Thank you, succinctly. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:

In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood
whisperer guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so
happens I'm building some bookcases and decided to make my own
version of his jig, using a bearing pattern bit instead of the
brass guide bushings. Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig


Looks nice Mike. I was going to go with the guide edge concept until I
looked at yours. Not that I see any real benefit to either approach, but
yours just looks cleaner. Help me out though... I don't understand the
reason for the clamps underneath. And... they appear to be in two different
place in the pictures. In one picture they appear to be on the end piece
and in one picture they appear to be on the piece that guides the route
channel. I thought maybe you were just using them for the construction of
your jig, but that didn't make any sense either. Am I just looking at this
and missing the obvious?

--

-Mike-

On 1/4/13 4:30 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:

In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood
whisperer guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so
happens I'm building some bookcases and decided to make my own
version of his jig, using a bearing pattern bit instead of the
brass guide bushings. Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig


Looks nice Mike. I was going to go with the guide edge concept until I
looked at yours. Not that I see any real benefit to either approach, but
yours just looks cleaner.

Are you talking guide bushing vs. bearing pattern bit?
If you only work with one router, there's a big advantage to a
non-bushing approach, imo. Installing the bushing mount and getting it
perfectly centered takes some time and can be a bit of a PITA, depending
on your router and bushing set. And then when it is "centered," it's
probably not. :-) I suppose having a dedicated bushing router would be
an advantage. if that's not what you're talking about, never mind. :-)


Help me out though... I don't understand the
reason for the clamps underneath. And... they appear to be in two different
place in the pictures. In one picture they appear to be on the end piece
and in one picture they appear to be on the piece that guides the route
channel. I thought maybe you were just using them for the construction of
your jig, but that didn't make any sense either. Am I just looking at this
and missing the obvious?


I was taking the pictures as I progressed in using the jig, not after,
when it was all figured out. The clamps is this pic....
http://tinyurl.com/edgeclamps
....were installed when I was cutting dadoes near the end of a panel,
where I had no room to clamp the jig using all four Irwin quick-clamps.

When cutting in the middle of the panel, using Irwin quick-clamps on the
four corners, I noticed that depending on how and where the panel was
supported it could bow a little, and the center of the jig (important
part) may not make perfect contact with the panel. Since we all love
having an accurate, constant depth in our dadoes, this was unacceptable.
Even if just a half millimeter.

So, I decided to figure out a way to clamp the jig near the center where
it mattered the most. Anything clamping from the top would get in the
way of the router. Anything on the bottom would have to have adjustable
location to accommodate different sized stock. I thought about attaching
a t-track for sliding clamps, but finally decided that it was as easy to
remove and install four screws as it was anything else. Especially since
one is generally cutting a lot of dadoes on the same width of stock for
most projects.
This clamp.....
http://tinyurl.com/endclamps
....one on each end, addressed the issue quite well. On last two dadoes I
cut, these two clamps, alone, held the jig firmly in place.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/3/2013 6:49 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig

I got a CMT 811.127.11B to use with this jig.
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-811-127-11B-Pattern-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000P4O4K8



I made my own jig also, for use with a pattern bit. Mine is pretty
primitive, - it's not even adjustable (so far) - yet it worked very
efficiently; a testament to the efficacy of the pattern bit method, even
in the hands of a novice.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...in/photostream

I actually ended up screwing my jig down into the work surface, making
the jig stationary. I slid the plywood under the jig to move it to each
new position, and then used a couple of Quick-Grips to hold the work.
The fit under the jig was snug, but not so much so that it was difficult
to shift positions. I adjusted that "fit" in the way any clever
ignoramus might; I put a few pieces of paper under one corner that was
too tight. (yes, you may cringe now)

I kept a block of 3/4" oak handy to use as a "handle" to adjust the
position of the work:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

I was also able to fine tune the position of the work by tapping that
block with a small mallet. Here's another photo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

This photo shows three clamps, but that may have been early on in the
process. Two worked just fine. There's no photo of it, but I eventually
added rubber "stops" to each end of the jig so I wouldn't need to worry
about overshooting the end. If anyone is wondering why the oak strips
are shorter than the jig, that's the length I had in the scrap pile.

I may yet get the knobs and hardware to make this jig adjustable, but
even as-is it made nice tight joints and made them quickly.

On 1/4/13 12:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/3/2013 6:49 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig

I got a CMT 811.127.11B to use with this jig.
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-811-127-11B-Pattern-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000P4O4K8




I made my own jig also, for use with a pattern bit. Mine is pretty
primitive, - it's not even adjustable (so far) - yet it worked very
efficiently; a testament to the efficacy of the pattern bit method, even
in the hands of a novice.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...in/photostream


I honestly think having two separate guide that would clamp separately
would work fine, too. You square one up, clamp it in place. Then
sandwich your shelf material between it and the other guide, clamp in
place and cut.


I actually ended up screwing my jig down into the work surface, making
the jig stationary. I slid the plywood under the jig to move it to each
new position, and then used a couple of Quick-Grips to hold the work.
The fit under the jig was snug, but not so much so that it was difficult
to shift positions. I adjusted that "fit" in the way any clever
ignoramus might; I put a few pieces of paper under one corner that was
too tight. (yes, you may cringe now)


Nope. I use artist paper as shims all the time.


I kept a block of 3/4" oak handy to use as a "handle" to adjust the
position of the work:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

I was also able to fine tune the position of the work by tapping that
block with a small mallet. Here's another photo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

This photo shows three clamps, but that may have been early on in the
process. Two worked just fine. There's no photo of it, but I eventually
added rubber "stops" to each end of the jig so I wouldn't need to worry
about overshooting the end. If anyone is wondering why the oak strips
are shorter than the jig, that's the length I had in the scrap pile.

I may yet get the knobs and hardware to make this jig adjustable, but
even as-is it made nice tight joints and made them quickly.

If you're using the same plywood, it will work great. Even if you need a
different thickness, if nothing is glued, it's probably fast enough to
just remove the screws, sandwich a panel, and re-screw it into place.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/4/2013 2:16 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/4/13 12:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/3/2013 6:49 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig

I got a CMT 811.127.11B to use with this jig.
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-811-127-11B-Pattern-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000P4O4K8





I made my own jig also, for use with a pattern bit. Mine is pretty
primitive, - it's not even adjustable (so far) - yet it worked very
efficiently; a testament to the efficacy of the pattern bit method, even
in the hands of a novice.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...in/photostream


I honestly think having two separate guide that would clamp separately
would work fine, too. You square one up, clamp it in place. Then
sandwich your shelf material between it and the other guide, clamp in
place and cut.

That was my original plan, until I counted how many dadoes I had
designed into my project. Not only would it have taken forever to do the
above steps 40 times, I am sure that I would have made a fatal error
somewhere along the way.

Speaking of getting things square, I'm surprised that you in effect made
both runners moveable. If I make mine adjustable, I think I'll keep
three of the four pieces "fixed" square, making both ends of the *same*
runner adjustable instead. It probably doesn't matter, as you have one
right angle fixed on either end the way you built it, but it feels
better to me.


I actually ended up screwing my jig down into the work surface, making
the jig stationary. I slid the plywood under the jig to move it to each
new position, and then used a couple of Quick-Grips to hold the work.
The fit under the jig was snug, but not so much so that it was difficult
to shift positions. I adjusted that "fit" in the way any clever
ignoramus might; I put a few pieces of paper under one corner that was
too tight. (yes, you may cringe now)


Nope. I use artist paper as shims all the time.

That makes me smile. I rediscover the wheel all the time it seems.

I kept a block of 3/4" oak handy to use as a "handle" to adjust the
position of the work:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

I was also able to fine tune the position of the work by tapping that
block with a small mallet. Here's another photo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

This photo shows three clamps, but that may have been early on in the
process. Two worked just fine. There's no photo of it, but I eventually
added rubber "stops" to each end of the jig so I wouldn't need to worry
about overshooting the end. If anyone is wondering why the oak strips
are shorter than the jig, that's the length I had in the scrap pile.

I may yet get the knobs and hardware to make this jig adjustable, but
even as-is it made nice tight joints and made them quickly.

If you're using the same plywood, it will work great. Even if you need a
different thickness, if nothing is glued, it's probably fast enough to
just remove the screws, sandwich a panel, and re-screw it into place.

Nothing is glued, and yes, a close perusal of the photos will show that
I have already "adjusted" my jig by screwing it in again. I originally
set it with some old scrap ply.

The non-adjustability bit me in the ass a bit actually. The birch ply I
bought was actually not of consistent thickness even among the three
sheets I bought. (grrr...) One sheet was significantly thicker. The jig
made such nice snug dadoes that the discrepancy made the larger ones
impossible to fit into the grooves without excessive violence.

I thought about re-adjusting the non-adjustable jig for the 16 dadoes
that needed to be wider, but then decided on a different method, one
that I am fairly certain will make people here cringe (although I have
been wrong before). I cut the dado with the jig as usual, then tapped
the work with a mallet, moving it over ever so slightly, then ran the
router through again. I "measured" how much to move it by feel mostly,
but nonetheless managed to get snug dadoes for the thicker lumber as well.

It's always a puzzle. But I guess that's partly what makes it fun.

On 1/4/2013 1:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/4/2013 2:16 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/4/13 12:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/3/2013 6:49 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
In another thread we discussed the dado jig made by that wood whisperer
guy and ways we thought it could be improved. It just so happens I'm
building some bookcases and decided to make my own version of his jig,
using a bearing pattern bit instead of the brass guide bushings.

Pictures are worth thousands of words....
http://picasaweb.google.com/109584249613776832016/DadoJig

I got a CMT 811.127.11B to use with this jig.
http://www.amazon.com/CMT-811-127-11B-Pattern-Cutting-Diameter/dp/B000P4O4K8






I made my own jig also, for use with a pattern bit. Mine is pretty
primitive, - it's not even adjustable (so far) - yet it worked very
efficiently; a testament to the efficacy of the pattern bit method, even
in the hands of a novice.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...in/photostream


I honestly think having two separate guide that would clamp separately
would work fine, too. You square one up, clamp it in place. Then
sandwich your shelf material between it and the other guide, clamp in
place and cut.

That was my original plan, until I counted how many dadoes I had
designed into my project. Not only would it have taken forever to do the
above steps 40 times, I am sure that I would have made a fatal error
somewhere along the way.

Speaking of getting things square, I'm surprised that you in effect made
both runners moveable. If I make mine adjustable, I think I'll keep
three of the four pieces "fixed" square, making both ends of the *same*
runner adjustable instead. It probably doesn't matter, as you have one
right angle fixed on either end the way you built it, but it feels
better to me.


I actually ended up screwing my jig down into the work surface, making
the jig stationary. I slid the plywood under the jig to move it to each
new position, and then used a couple of Quick-Grips to hold the work.
The fit under the jig was snug, but not so much so that it was difficult
to shift positions. I adjusted that "fit" in the way any clever
ignoramus might; I put a few pieces of paper under one corner that was
too tight. (yes, you may cringe now)


Nope. I use artist paper as shims all the time.

That makes me smile. I rediscover the wheel all the time it seems.

I kept a block of 3/4" oak handy to use as a "handle" to adjust the
position of the work:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

I was also able to fine tune the position of the work by tapping that
block with a small mallet. Here's another photo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...n/photostream/

This photo shows three clamps, but that may have been early on in the
process. Two worked just fine. There's no photo of it, but I eventually
added rubber "stops" to each end of the jig so I wouldn't need to worry
about overshooting the end. If anyone is wondering why the oak strips
are shorter than the jig, that's the length I had in the scrap pile.

I may yet get the knobs and hardware to make this jig adjustable, but
even as-is it made nice tight joints and made them quickly.

If you're using the same plywood, it will work great. Even if you need a
different thickness, if nothing is glued, it's probably fast enough to
just remove the screws, sandwich a panel, and re-screw it into place.

Nothing is glued, and yes, a close perusal of the photos will show that
I have already "adjusted" my jig by screwing it in again. I originally
set it with some old scrap ply.

The non-adjustability bit me in the ass a bit actually. The birch ply I
bought was actually not of consistent thickness even among the three
sheets I bought. (grrr...) One sheet was significantly thicker. The jig
made such nice snug dadoes that the discrepancy made the larger ones
impossible to fit into the grooves without excessive violence.

that's why you trim the ends of the plywood to a standard size (in
effect making tenons), and make the dadoes be that thickness.

I thought about re-adjusting the non-adjustable jig for the 16 dadoes
that needed to be wider, but then decided on a different method, one
that I am fairly certain will make people here cringe (although I have
been wrong before). I cut the dado with the jig as usual, then tapped
the work with a mallet, moving it over ever so slightly, then ran the
router through again. I "measured" how much to move it by feel mostly,
but nonetheless managed to get snug dadoes for the thicker lumber as well.

It's always a puzzle. But I guess that's partly what makes it fun.

On 1/4/2013 12:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I made my own jig also, for use with a pattern bit. Mine is pretty
primitive, - it's not even adjustable (so far) - yet it worked very
efficiently; a testament to the efficacy of the pattern bit method, even
in the hands of a novice.

I may yet get the knobs and hardware to make this jig adjustable, but
even as-is it made nice tight joints and made them quickly.

Well done ... the ability to make jigs, that solve problems and allow
consistency from part to part, is probably the one shared key element of
successful woodworkers.

If there is any doubt about that, ask David J. Marks, one of the best
around.

You have it, you don't need much else.

You have it ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/4/13 2:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

Speaking of getting things square, I'm surprised that you in effect made
both runners moveable. If I make mine adjustable, I think I'll keep
three of the four pieces "fixed" square, making both ends of the *same*
runner adjustable instead. It probably doesn't matter, as you have one
right angle fixed on either end the way you built it, but it feels
better to me.


What do you mean by "both runners moveable?"
The stationary half has the t-square and other end glued and screwed.
The adjustable runner is loose and tightens with the two knobs.


I thought about re-adjusting the non-adjustable jig for the 16 dadoes
that needed to be wider, but then decided on a different method, one
that I am fairly certain will make people here cringe (although I have
been wrong before). I cut the dado with the jig as usual, then tapped
the work with a mallet, moving it over ever so slightly, then ran the
router through again. I "measured" how much to move it by feel mostly,
but nonetheless managed to get snug dadoes for the thicker lumber as well.


Tapping is how most of us adjust our saw fences. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/4/13 2:43 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 1/4/2013 1:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The non-adjustability bit me in the ass a bit actually. The birch ply I
bought was actually not of consistent thickness even among the three
sheets I bought. (grrr...) One sheet was significantly thicker. The jig
made such nice snug dadoes that the discrepancy made the larger ones
impossible to fit into the grooves without excessive violence.

that's why you trim the ends of the plywood to a standard size (in
effect making tenons), and make the dadoes be that thickness.


Or you build an adjustable jig that easily adjusts to the exact width of
the plywood.
what, wait a sec.... :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/4/13 2:47 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/4/2013 12:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I made my own jig also, for use with a pattern bit. Mine is pretty
primitive, - it's not even adjustable (so far) - yet it worked very
efficiently; a testament to the efficacy of the pattern bit method, even
in the hands of a novice.

I may yet get the knobs and hardware to make this jig adjustable, but
even as-is it made nice tight joints and made them quickly.

Well done ... the ability to make jigs, that solve problems and allow
consistency from part to part, is probably the one shared key element of
successful woodworkers.


Well, that and a electron micrometer for adjusting your square. :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/4/2013 2:06 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/4/13 2:43 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 1/4/2013 1:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The non-adjustability bit me in the ass a bit actually. The birch ply I
bought was actually not of consistent thickness even among the three
sheets I bought. (grrr...) One sheet was significantly thicker. The jig
made such nice snug dadoes that the discrepancy made the larger ones
impossible to fit into the grooves without excessive violence.

that's why you trim the ends of the plywood to a standard size (in
effect making tenons), and make the dadoes be that thickness.


Or you build an adjustable jig that easily adjusts to the exact width of
the plywood.
what, wait a sec.... :-)



wouldn't he need to know, before he made the first cut, which piece of
plywood would be used for the shelves, or even (if there's not enough in
that sheet to make all the shelves) which shelf would be coming from
which sheet? and keep the shelves in a known position when doing all the
additional work?

given that with 40 shelves, the combinations of shelves to dados would
be 40!. it would be a lot easier to make the ends be all the same
thickness i would think.

On 1/4/13 3:21 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 1/4/2013 2:06 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/4/13 2:43 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 1/4/2013 1:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The non-adjustability bit me in the ass a bit actually. The birch ply I
bought was actually not of consistent thickness even among the three
sheets I bought. (grrr...) One sheet was significantly thicker. The jig
made such nice snug dadoes that the discrepancy made the larger ones
impossible to fit into the grooves without excessive violence.

that's why you trim the ends of the plywood to a standard size (in
effect making tenons), and make the dadoes be that thickness.


Or you build an adjustable jig that easily adjusts to the exact width of
the plywood.
what, wait a sec.... :-)



wouldn't he need to know, before he made the first cut, which piece of
plywood would be used for the shelves, or even (if there's not enough in
that sheet to make all the shelves) which shelf would be coming from
which sheet? and keep the shelves in a known position when doing all the
additional work?

given that with 40 shelves, the combinations of shelves to dados would
be 40!. it would be a lot easier to make the ends be all the same
thickness i would think.

Yes, when you run across crappy Asian plywood like that... which we all
do, from time to time.
I was just playing of the fact that the thread is about an adjustable jig.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/4/2013 3:07 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Well, that and a electron micrometer for adjusting your square. :-p

Well played, yourself ...




--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Jan 4, 4:21*pm, chaniarts wrote:
On 1/4/2013 2:06 PM, -MIKE- wrote:









On 1/4/13 2:43 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 1/4/2013 1:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The non-adjustability bit me in the ass a bit actually. The birch ply I
bought was actually not of consistent thickness even among the three
sheets I bought. (grrr...) One sheet was significantly thicker. The jig
made such nice snug dadoes that the discrepancy made the larger ones
impossible to fit into the grooves without excessive violence.

that's why you trim the ends of the plywood to a standard size (in
effect making tenons), and make the dadoes be that thickness.

Or you build an adjustable jig that easily adjusts to the exact width of
the plywood.
what, wait a sec.... * :-)

wouldn't he need to know, before he made the first cut, which piece of
plywood would be used for the shelves, or even (if there's not enough in
that sheet to make all the shelves) which shelf would be coming from
which sheet? and keep the shelves in a known position when doing all the
additional work?

In this particular case, I had made a diagram for the initial cutting,
so I did know which pieces came from which sheet. All of the shelves
were from the same sheet. The tops and bottoms (which are also going
in dadoes, just like the shelves), were from the other sheets. I set
the jig with one of the shelves, which apparently was the thinnest
sheet.


given that with 40 shelves, the combinations of shelves to dados would
be 40!. it would be a lot easier to make the ends be all the same
thickness i would think.

Well, there were 20 shelves, which fit into 40 dadoes. The dadoes that
needed adjustment were the top and bottom ones on each upright, so it
was easy to keep track. Still a pain though.

On Jan 4, 3:43*pm, chaniarts wrote:


that's why you trim the ends of the plywood to a standard size (in
effect making tenons), and make the dadoes be that thickness.

So how would I do that exactly? I'm finished with the dadoes for this
project, but I'm always happy to learn something. Most of the ways I
can think of to make a rabbet use the surface of the wood as a
reference. If I take, say, an eighth off both sides, the "tenon" left
behind will still vary with the original thickness of the wood. A
router bit with two cutters set a fixed distance apart maybe?

On Jan 4, 4:03*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/4/13 2:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:



Speaking of getting things square, I'm surprised that you in effect made
both runners moveable. If I make mine adjustable, I think I'll keep
three of the four pieces "fixed" square, making both ends of the *same*
runner adjustable instead. It probably doesn't matter, as you have one
right angle fixed on either end the way you built it, but it feels
better to me.

What do you mean by "both runners moveable?"
The stationary half has the t-square and other end glued and screwed.
The adjustable runner is loose and tightens with the two knobs.

I don't know where I got that idea from. I just reviewed your pics
again and you did it the way I thought it should be done. I guess I
just remembered it wrong.

On Jan 4, 3:47*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 1/4/2013 12:58 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I made my own jig also, for use with a pattern bit. Mine is pretty
primitive, - it's not even adjustable (so far) *- yet it worked very
efficiently; a testament to the efficacy of the pattern bit method, even
in the hands of a novice.
I may yet get the knobs and hardware to make this jig adjustable, but
even as-is it made nice tight joints and made them quickly.

Well done ... the ability to make jigs, that solve problems and allow
consistency from part to part, is probably the one shared key element of
successful woodworkers.

If there is any doubt about that, ask David J. Marks, one of the best
around.

You have it, you don't need much else.

You have it ...

Thanks for the encouragement.

On Jan 4, 4:24*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/4/13 3:21 PM, chaniarts wrote:









On 1/4/2013 2:06 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/4/13 2:43 PM, chaniarts wrote:
On 1/4/2013 1:35 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
The non-adjustability bit me in the ass a bit actually. The birch ply I
bought was actually not of consistent thickness even among the three
sheets I bought. (grrr...) One sheet was significantly thicker. The jig
made such nice snug dadoes that the discrepancy made the larger ones
impossible to fit into the grooves without excessive violence.

that's why you trim the ends of the plywood to a standard size (in
effect making tenons), and make the dadoes be that thickness.

Or you build an adjustable jig that easily adjusts to the exact width of
the plywood.
what, wait a sec.... * :-)

wouldn't he need to know, before he made the first cut, which piece of
plywood would be used for the shelves, or even (if there's not enough in
that sheet to make all the shelves) which shelf would be coming from
which sheet? and keep the shelves in a known position when doing all the
additional work?

given that with 40 shelves, the combinations of shelves to dados would
be 40!. it would be a lot easier to make the ends be all the same
thickness i would think.

Yes, when you run across crappy Asian plywood like that... which we all
do, from time to time.

American plywood, by the way.

-MIKE- wrote:


Are you talking guide bushing vs. bearing pattern bit?

No - I was talking about the guide secured to the jig that your router base
rides agianst (in its proper orientation), that is the basis of other
designs. Using the pattern bit instead of the edge guide for the router
base allows you to use different bits as well, so it is more universal. You
know - when ya come out to the shop after a night of wild partying and are
all hung over, and ya drop your router bit on your square and they both fall
to the floor - ya can just grab another pattern bit and move along... (tip
of the hat to Brian)



Help me out though... I don't understand the
reason for the clamps underneath. And... they appear to be in two
different place in the pictures. In one picture they appear to be
on the end piece and in one picture they appear to be on the piece
that guides the route channel. I thought maybe you were just using
them for the construction of your jig, but that didn't make any
sense either. Am I just looking at this and missing the obvious?


I was taking the pictures as I progressed in using the jig, not after,
when it was all figured out. The clamps is this pic....
http://tinyurl.com/edgeclamps
...were installed when I was cutting dadoes near the end of a panel,
where I had no room to clamp the jig using all four Irwin
quick-clamps.

That makes sense.


When cutting in the middle of the panel, using Irwin quick-clamps on
the four corners, I noticed that depending on how and where the panel
was supported it could bow a little, and the center of the jig
(important part) may not make perfect contact with the panel. Since
we all love having an accurate, constant depth in our dadoes, this
was unacceptable. Even if just a half millimeter.

Huh. Kinda surprised you got that bow. Please allow me to suggest that the
next time you undertake such an operation, you steam and pre-bow your jig by
the same amount as the observed deflection. (This can be accurately
determined by the use of a dial indicator, though some advocate the use of
feeler guages). Allow the jig to cool and verify that it has maintained the
desired amount of pre-bow (and repeat as necessary, using over-bowing to
achieve the desired final set). This simple and efficient procedure allows
the use of fast and convenient clamping techniques that result in perfect
surface contact between the jig and the workpiece along its entire length,
every time.


So, I decided to figure out a way to clamp the jig near the center
where it mattered the most. Anything clamping from the top would get
in the way of the router. Anything on the bottom would have to have
adjustable location to accommodate different sized stock. I thought
about attaching a t-track for sliding clamps, but finally decided
that it was as easy to remove and install four screws as it was
anything else. Especially since one is generally cutting a lot of
dadoes on the same width of stock for most projects.
This clamp.....
http://tinyurl.com/endclamps
...one on each end, addressed the issue quite well. On last two
dadoes I cut, these two clamps, alone, held the jig firmly in place.

Got it. I didn't realize from the pictures that these clamps were somewhat
special purpose - useful for a particular dado cut.

--

-Mike-

Greg Guarino wrote:
On Jan 4, 3:43 pm, chaniarts wrote:


that's why you trim the ends of the plywood to a standard size (in
effect making tenons), and make the dadoes be that thickness.

So how would I do that exactly? I'm finished with the dadoes for this
project, but I'm always happy to learn something. Most of the ways I
can think of to make a rabbet use the surface of the wood as a
reference. If I take, say, an eighth off both sides, the "tenon" left
behind will still vary with the original thickness of the wood. A
router bit with two cutters set a fixed distance apart maybe?

Easy way with one shoulder...

Table saw

Set fence for tenon width

Run wood through vertically

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 1/5/13 7:03 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


Are you talking guide bushing vs. bearing pattern bit?

No - I was talking about the guide secured to the jig that your router base
rides agianst (in its proper orientation), that is the basis of other
designs. Using the pattern bit instead of the edge guide for the router
base allows you to use different bits as well, so it is more universal. You
know - when ya come out to the shop after a night of wild partying and are
all hung over, and ya drop your router bit on your square and they both fall
to the floor - ya can just grab another pattern bit and move along... (tip
of the hat to Brian)


True about being a multi-tasker/universal.


When cutting in the middle of the panel, using Irwin quick-clamps on
the four corners, I noticed that depending on how and where the panel
was supported it could bow a little, and the center of the jig
(important part) may not make perfect contact with the panel. Since
we all love having an accurate, constant depth in our dadoes, this
was unacceptable. Even if just a half millimeter.

Huh. Kinda surprised you got that bow. Please allow me to suggest that the
next time you undertake such an operation, you steam and pre-bow your jig by
the same amount as the observed deflection. (This can be accurately
determined by the use of a dial indicator, though some advocate the use of
feeler guages). Allow the jig to cool and verify that it has maintained the
desired amount of pre-bow (and repeat as necessary, using over-bowing to
achieve the desired final set). This simple and efficient procedure allows
the use of fast and convenient clamping techniques that result in perfect
surface contact between the jig and the workpiece along its entire length,
every time.


If that statement is serious, it's brilliant.
If that statement is sarcastic, it's brilliant. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply