I may have asked about something similar a long while back, but I'm
getting closer to doing it now.

I need to build a one-piece "top" for some off the shelf bookshelf
units. The top will have two functions: to make the three units appear
more like one integrated piece of furniture, and to provide a durable
sun- and water- proof surface to cover the damaged tops of the units.

The three units together are about 9' long and about 30" tall. They used
to sit under a long south-facing window. We intend to move them back
there. In addition to the fading and other sun damage to the tops, there
were a few spills over the years; we had some potted plants there.

I intend to use some sort of tiles as the "field" surface; big ones, 20"
wide probably. They will sit in a "tray", made of 3/4" ply with a 1x2
solid wood border on all four sides. The top of the 1x2 will either be
flush with the top of the tile, or perhaps a hair lower. I figure I'll
use pocket screws to fasten the 1x2 to the ply.

So, here are my questions:

Should I use ply? Or would MDF work just as well? None of it will be
seen, and it will rest on the tops of the cabinets, so it won't hold any
weight.

What should I use to fasten the tiles to the ply? My original thought
was "nothing". Gravity and the "border" could hold them in. But I wonder
if gluing them down somehow would make them less prone to cracking
should something drop on them. Of course, if they're not glued, they'd
be easy to replace.

On 10/22/2012 4:17 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I may have asked about something similar a long while back, but I'm
getting closer to doing it now.

I need to build a one-piece "top" for some off the shelf bookshelf
units. The top will have two functions: to make the three units appear
more like one integrated piece of furniture, and to provide a durable
sun- and water- proof surface to cover the damaged tops of the units.

The three units together are about 9' long and about 30" tall. They used
to sit under a long south-facing window. We intend to move them back
there. In addition to the fading and other sun damage to the tops, there
were a few spills over the years; we had some potted plants there.

I intend to use some sort of tiles as the "field" surface; big ones, 20"
wide probably. They will sit in a "tray", made of 3/4" ply with a 1x2
solid wood border on all four sides. The top of the 1x2 will either be
flush with the top of the tile, or perhaps a hair lower. I figure I'll
use pocket screws to fasten the 1x2 to the ply.

So, here are my questions:

Should I use ply? Or would MDF work just as well? None of it will be
seen, and it will rest on the tops of the cabinets, so it won't hold any
weight.

First off about the only water proof wood product is PT, and that is not
for ever.

If this addition is to be added to the top of a book shelf consider
covering the surface with plastic laminate If it must endure water and
sun light. You could how ever have a UV window film added to those
windows and place your pot plants in containers that will not leak.

On Mon, 22 Oct 2012 17:17:37 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:

I may have asked about something similar a long while back, but I'm
getting closer to doing it now.

I need to build a one-piece "top" for some off the shelf bookshelf
units. The top will have two functions: to make the three units appear
more like one integrated piece of furniture, and to provide a durable
sun- and water- proof surface to cover the damaged tops of the units.

The three units together are about 9' long and about 30" tall. They used
to sit under a long south-facing window. We intend to move them back
there. In addition to the fading and other sun damage to the tops, there
were a few spills over the years; we had some potted plants there.

I intend to use some sort of tiles as the "field" surface; big ones, 20"
wide probably. They will sit in a "tray", made of 3/4" ply with a 1x2
solid wood border on all four sides. The top of the 1x2 will either be
flush with the top of the tile, or perhaps a hair lower. I figure I'll
use pocket screws to fasten the 1x2 to the ply.

So, here are my questions:

Should I use ply? Or would MDF work just as well? None of it will be
seen, and it will rest on the tops of the cabinets, so it won't hold any
weight.

What should I use to fasten the tiles to the ply? My original thought
was "nothing". Gravity and the "border" could hold them in. But I wonder
if gluing them down somehow would make them less prone to cracking
should something drop on them. Of course, if they're not glued, they'd
be easy to replace.

If you use tiles, they will crack off whenever too much weight is put
on the top, if one corner is lifted, if the entire unit is moved, etc.
Tiles need a perfectly flat, non-moving, non-flexing surface. Well,
unless you foam-glue them on and use a flexible caulk for the grout.

Do yourself a favor. Make the top from 3/4" plywood and formica. I
did my kitchen countertops with it and it's nice to work with. I
bought the 12' slab, mounted it, cut it out, and caulked the
backsplash. But I made the two short countertops myself that day.
It was fun, and the formica I bought was perfectly matched to the
preformed slab across the kitchen. It looks like suede, and that's
the name of the product. http://tinyurl.com/9thcet7

--
They must find it difficult,
those who have taken authority as truth,
rather than truth as authority.
-- Gerald Massey, Egyptologist

Greg Guarino wrote:
I may have asked about something similar a long while back, but I'm
getting closer to doing it now.

I need to build a one-piece "top" for some off the shelf bookshelf
units. The top will have two functions: to make the three units appear
more like one integrated piece of furniture, and to provide a durable
sun- and water- proof surface to cover the damaged tops of the units.

The three units together are about 9' long and about 30" tall. They
used to sit under a long south-facing window. We intend to move them
back there. In addition to the fading and other sun damage to the
tops, there were a few spills over the years; we had some potted
plants there.
I intend to use some sort of tiles as the "field" surface; big ones,
20" wide probably. They will sit in a "tray", made of 3/4" ply with a
1x2 solid wood border on all four sides. The top of the 1x2 will
either be flush with the top of the tile, or perhaps a hair lower. I
figure I'll use pocket screws to fasten the 1x2 to the ply.

So, here are my questions:

Should I use ply? Or would MDF work just as well? None of it will be
seen, and it will rest on the tops of the cabinets, so it won't hold
any weight.

What should I use to fasten the tiles to the ply? My original thought
was "nothing". Gravity and the "border" could hold them in. But I
wonder if gluing them down somehow would make them less prone to
cracking should something drop on them. Of course, if they're not
glued, they'd be easy to replace.

Your top is going to be well supported so you could use pretty much
anything. I'm not a fan of MDF so I'd use ply, especially if there will
ever be any water around.

The tiles are not going to bear any weight and being well adhereed isn't
going to stop them from breaking if you drop something on them; actually,
they aren't all that easy to break that way. Possible but not easy.

I assume you are going to grout them. Yes or no, I'd still stick them down.
For what you are doing, I'd probably run a bead of cheap acrylic caulk
around their perimeter an inch or so from the edge and an X across
them...put them down, put some pressure on them to squish down the caulk.

With that, you should be good to go as long as you don't try to lift the
top. If you plan on doing so, you need it beefy enough so it doesn't flex;
if it does, the tiles aren't going to break - unless it flexes a *lot* - but
the grout may crack. I think what you propose will be beefy enough.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

If the top surface is not going to be used as rough as a kitchen countertop, how about using a reed spline, rather than grout, to insert between the tiles. Reed spline is inexpensive, fairly strong and flexible. Its easy to cut/miter and glue into the spaces. Reed spline holds pressed in cane in place, without any problems, so I would think it would be reasonable for your use.

If you use reed spline and it eventually doesn't work, then removing it, to use something else, would be easy. Your investment in this "testing" of spline would be nominal... spline is really inexpensive.

A spline could be stained, for contrast, also, for that consideration option.

On 10/22/2012 8:25 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Do yourself a favor. Make the top from 3/4" plywood and formica.

I have considered that option. I might be more inclined in that
direction if the length was under 8' and if I had a reasonable way of
transporting a sheet of laminate. We'll see.

What should I use to fasten the tiles to the ply? My original thought

was "nothing". Gravity and the "border" could hold them in. But I wonder

if gluing them down somehow would make them less prone to cracking

should something drop on them. Of course, if they're not glued, they'd

be easy to replace.

You could use particle board or MDF, apply your hardwood edge w/pocket screws from below and shellac the beejeesus on the top of your substrate, then mastic your tiles in place, then grout or caulk accordingly. Screw the top down from underneath and you won't warp the substrate from imbalance of moisture. There's my 10 centavos and worth every penny of that.

RP

On 10/22/2012 2:17 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I may have asked about something similar a long while back, but I'm
getting closer to doing it now.

I need to build a one-piece "top" for some off the shelf bookshelf
units. The top will have two functions: to make the three units appear
more like one integrated piece of furniture, and to provide a durable
sun- and water- proof surface to cover the damaged tops of the units.

The three units together are about 9' long and about 30" tall. They used
to sit under a long south-facing window. We intend to move them back
there. In addition to the fading and other sun damage to the tops, there
were a few spills over the years; we had some potted plants there.

I intend to use some sort of tiles as the "field" surface; big ones, 20"
wide probably. They will sit in a "tray", made of 3/4" ply with a 1x2
solid wood border on all four sides. The top of the 1x2 will either be
flush with the top of the tile, or perhaps a hair lower. I figure I'll
use pocket screws to fasten the 1x2 to the ply.

So, here are my questions:

Should I use ply? Or would MDF work just as well? None of it will be
seen, and it will rest on the tops of the cabinets, so it won't hold any
weight.

What should I use to fasten the tiles to the ply? My original thought
was "nothing". Gravity and the "border" could hold them in. But I wonder
if gluing them down somehow would make them less prone to cracking
should something drop on them. Of course, if they're not glued, they'd
be easy to replace.

glass? i made this table, and the top is glass tiles silicone glued to a
piece of 1/4" mirror.

http://www.glassartists.org/Img12184...Sofa_Table.asp

On Tuesday, October 30, 2012 3:10:27 PM UTC-6, chaniarts wrote:
http://www.glassartists.org/Img12184...Sofa_Table.asp

That's a nice looking table. Good job.

Sonny

the Sheet rolls up...
very easy to transport.

avoid mdf... anytime water is around mdf is not your best option.


On 10/23/2012 1:32 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/22/2012 8:25 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Do yourself a favor. Make the top from 3/4" plywood and formica.

I have considered that option. I might be more inclined in that
direction if the length was under 8' and if I had a reasonable way of
transporting a sheet of laminate. We'll see.

On Thu, 1 Nov 2012 10:58:52 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:

On Tuesday, October 30, 2012 3:10:27 PM UTC-6, chaniarts wrote:
http://www.glassartists.org/Img12184...Sofa_Table.asp

That's a nice looking table. Good job.

I followed the other links and liked the unusual glass in concrete
structure thingie. And I wonder how he fooled the guy to dip his
hands into the molten glass in the "cooperating hands" piece.
I like the glass in steel courtyard gate a lot, too. Bravo, Charlie.

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle

On 11/1/2012 8:31 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 1 Nov 2012 10:58:52 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:

On Tuesday, October 30, 2012 3:10:27 PM UTC-6, chaniarts wrote:
http://www.glassartists.org/Img12184...Sofa_Table.asp

That's a nice looking table. Good job.

I followed the other links and liked the unusual glass in concrete
structure thingie. And I wonder how he fooled the guy to dip his
hands into the molten glass in the "cooperating hands" piece.
I like the glass in steel courtyard gate a lot, too. Bravo, Charlie.

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle


thanks. i did all the glass work, but have tried to incorporate
mixed-media in a lot of my work.

the glass/concrete piece was done with glow powder fused between 2
pieces of 3/4" glass. it faces west, so gets charged up and glows for hours.

the hand pieces were done with copper powder fused between 2 sheets of
1/4" glass.

On Fri, 02 Nov 2012 09:58:57 -0700, chaniarts
wrote:

On 11/1/2012 8:31 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 1 Nov 2012 10:58:52 -0700 (PDT), Sonny
wrote:

On Tuesday, October 30, 2012 3:10:27 PM UTC-6, chaniarts wrote:
http://www.glassartists.org/Img12184...Sofa_Table.asp

That's a nice looking table. Good job.

I followed the other links and liked the unusual glass in concrete
structure thingie. And I wonder how he fooled the guy to dip his
hands into the molten glass in the "cooperating hands" piece.
I like the glass in steel courtyard gate a lot, too. Bravo, Charlie.

thanks. i did all the glass work, but have tried to incorporate
mixed-media in a lot of my work.

I hear that's where the bucks are.


the glass/concrete piece was done with glow powder fused between 2
pieces of 3/4" glass. it faces west, so gets charged up and glows for hours.

the hand pieces were done with copper powder fused between 2 sheets of
1/4" glass.

Cool cool.

--
The great thing about getting older is that
you don't lose all the other ages you've been.
-- Madeleine L'Engle

Hi chaniarts you have made really an amazing table ! I like it...

Which wood you have used to make the table?

On 11/4/2012 7:52 AM, anisagimran wrote:
Hi chaniarts you have made really an amazing table ! I like it...

Which wood you have used to make the table?

the wood parts of the table are red oak and purpleheart. a few years ago
i scored about 100bf of purpleheart 5/4 decking at $.25/ft when a place
was closing it out. it's all finished with shellac.