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Default mortiser advice for amateur

I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs list and
ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery - item#
35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?

--
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Han
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On 10/8/2012 8:22 AM, Han wrote:
I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs list and
ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery - item#
35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?



The important thing with any mortiser, just like chisels, is that you
have to sharpen the chisel before use. You want to shoot for the outer
four sides to have a mirror finish to aid with keeping the friction down
and you want to use a fine cone shaped stone to remove any burr/wire
edge from the inside of the chisel points. the mirror finish aids in
pulling the chisel back out of the initial hole that you cut.
I have not seen a mortiser of this size/caliber that does not squeel
like crazy when running and not cutting, a spray dry lube helps combat
this for a very short while of you could simply wear hearing protection.

The biggest difference you might find between all of the mortisers is
the quality of the chisels and how often you have to resharpen them.
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Han wrote:

I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs
list and ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central
Machinery - item# 35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice
the price?


I have a Jet (or maybe a Delta...) mortiser for my drill press. I can't
believe that anything from HF would possibly be any worse than what I have.
Not to say that is does not work, but it is not simply a plug and play tool
attachment. If you have to sharpen it, or tweak it in any way, then it
won't be any different from what I bought. In my experience, these are not
attachments that work (out of the box), like you see on TV.

--

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Default mortiser advice for amateur

On 10/8/2012 8:22 AM, Han wrote:
I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs list and
ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery - item#
35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?


Generally agree w/ Leon there's not a terrible lot to choose probably
other than quality of chisels and they all need tuning/sharpening before
use.

I have the 1/2hp Delta and in comparing pictures I think two advantages
are a) looks like taller fence and b) slightly stouter holddown arm and
perhaps larger base table. It lists at about 20lb heavier. Whether
worth the price differential don't have a clue--the chisels that came w/
the Delta were/are not bad--no idea those w/ HF--they may be as good
as well, particularly since Delta seems to have really slipped in the
last 10 yr or so since I got the one I have w/ the P-C takeover...

One thing I'd recommend is to see it if you can--how square is the fence
or easy/difficult to square it up is a big deal--if the work isn't
perpendicular/square to the table so target face isn't perpendicular to
shaft then the mortises will be canted and assembly goes together
catty-wampus...seen that in one other import in the past.

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On 10/8/2012 9:08 AM, dpb wrote:
....

Generally agree w/ Leon there's not a terrible lot to choose...


Other than I've not had the problem he mentions of the noise if the
chisel/bit are in line properly--I'd think that indicates the mortising
bit is off-center and rubbing on one (inner) face of the chisel
preferentially. An out-of-true chisel or holder could cause that I suppose.

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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 10/8/2012 8:22 AM, Han wrote:
I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs
list and ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central
Machinery - item# 35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice
the price?



The important thing with any mortiser, just like chisels, is that you
have to sharpen the chisel before use. You want to shoot for the
outer four sides to have a mirror finish to aid with keeping the
friction down and you want to use a fine cone shaped stone to remove
any burr/wire edge from the inside of the chisel points. the mirror
finish aids in pulling the chisel back out of the initial hole that
you cut. I have not seen a mortiser of this size/caliber that does not
squeel like crazy when running and not cutting, a spray dry lube helps
combat this for a very short while of you could simply wear hearing
protection.

The biggest difference you might find between all of the mortisers is
the quality of the chisels and how often you have to resharpen them.


Thanks, Leon!

--
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Han
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"Han" wrote:

I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs
list and
ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery -
item#
35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?

----------------------------------------------------
Found that Less than $5 worth of scrap to build a jig and a router
allowed me to make a lot of mortises and keep a few bucks in my
pocket.

Lew




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On Monday, October 8, 2012 8:22:27 AM UTC-5, Han wrote:
I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs list and

ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery - item#

35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?



--

Best regards

Han

email address is invalid


I am not a big HF tool advocate but about ten years ago I bought one of their mortisers on a whim. They had it on sale for $99 and I had just returned one of the Delta drill press kits because it didn't fit my older drill press.

A quick review (remember this was 10 years ago):

- Plenty of power. I had used my cousin's Powermatic a couple of times and the HF isn't quite that beefy but it does the job.

- Hold-down hardware system sucks. I have thought about building my own out of aluminum extrusion but so far backing up the plastic that came with the mortiser, with clamps, works.

- Plunge mechanism is OK. A curved bar would have been better but it cost $99.

- Chisels - Good. Actually quite good. The chisels provide the final product and they seem to hold up well and sharpen well. You will want to find some of the cone-shaped honing tools. Lee Valley sells them but I found a couple at a local tool shop.

- ON/OFF Switch - Worked fine for a couple of years then quit. Radio Shack has a replacement.

Bottom line is it cuts square holes and slots and with a bit of care you can keep them lined up well. That is why I wanted a mortising machine and it does the job.

RonB
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On 10/8/2012 6:22 AM, Han wrote:
I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs list and
ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery - item#
35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?


Learn how to do it with a router and forget those pain in the ass machines.

There are several ways to do mortising with a router that produce a much
faster,cleaner mortise than any machine I have seen.

Here is just a couple:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ygBmNrQkN4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USPF70cbLHQ

http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/mj.htm

If you root around youtube you will find "many" ways to do it
with a router.
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Pat Barber wrote in
:

On 10/8/2012 6:22 AM, Han wrote:
I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs
list and ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central
Machinery - item# 35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice
the price?


Learn how to do it with a router and forget those pain in the ass
machines.

There are several ways to do mortising with a router that produce a
much faster,cleaner mortise than any machine I have seen.

Here is just a couple:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ygBmNrQkN4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USPF70cbLHQ

http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/mj.htm

If you root around youtube you will find "many" ways to do it
with a router.


I appreciate everyone's comments very much, but I have to clarify things
a bit. First of all, I have a Domino machine and love it. So there is
no need for a mortising machine to make mortises to attach legs,
stretchers, aprons, rails. That's what the Domino is for.

In preparation for my Swingman style coffee table I made a sofa table as
a prototype/ test piece. I shared a couple of photos here before, and
that table was made using dominos for the essential joints: Upper frame
for the glass top used miters reinforced with dominos, rails, stretchers
were attached to the legs with dominos. I plan to do that again for the
coffee table.

However, the sets of spindles that make up the sides of the sofa table
between upper and lower rails were done somewhat clunky, although the
contrasting wood strips have their own charm. I made short square tenons
on the 1/2" sqare spindles, and mounted them into strips of wood set into
the top of the lower rail and the bottom of the upper rail. These strips
had dados to accept the tenons. I hope this is clear:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1008977...n/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1008977...n/photostream/

For the coffee table I think I'd rather have mortises directly in the
rails for my coffee table, not the strips with dados. Hence my looking
at a mortising machine that could easily make 1/4" square holes for the
spindles' tenons. But thinking more about it, I now think I'll make the
spindles for the coffee table fatter and use small dominos "floating
tenon-wise" to attach them to the rails.

Thanks for letting me think out loud grin.
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Han
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On 10/8/2012 10:40 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 10/8/2012 6:22 AM, Han wrote:
I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs list
and
ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery - item#
35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?


Learn how to do it with a router and forget those pain in the ass machines.

There are several ways to do mortising with a router that produce a much
faster,cleaner mortise than any machine I have seen.

Here is just a couple:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ygBmNrQkN4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USPF70cbLHQ

http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/mj.htm

If you root around youtube you will find "many" ways to do it
with a router.



Compared to a Domino most router set ups are also a PIA, he has a
Domino. I suspect that Han wants to do deep, two+ inch mortises.
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Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 10/8/2012 10:40 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 10/8/2012 6:22 AM, Han wrote:
I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs
list and
ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery -
item# 35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?


Learn how to do it with a router and forget those pain in the ass
machines.

There are several ways to do mortising with a router that produce a
much faster,cleaner mortise than any machine I have seen.

Here is just a couple:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ygBmNrQkN4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USPF70cbLHQ

http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/mj.htm

If you root around youtube you will find "many" ways to do it
with a router.



Compared to a Domino most router set ups are also a PIA, he has a
Domino. I suspect that Han wants to do deep, two+ inch mortises.


Sorry for not being more clear, Leon. Please see my reply to Pat Barber.

--
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Han
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On 10/8/2012 11:47 AM, Han wrote:
For the coffee table I think I'd rather have mortises directly in the
rails for my coffee table, not the strips with dados. Hence my looking
at a mortising machine that could easily make 1/4" square holes for the
spindles' tenons. But thinking more about it, I now think I'll make the
spindles for the coffee table fatter and use small dominos "floating
tenon-wise" to attach them to the rails.



No need to do that, Han.

Here's how to effect the same thing, without compromise, and without the
expense of buying a hollow chisel mortiser.

Notice the rounded mortises cut in the tops and bottoms of the side
aprons to hold the spindle tenons:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...49811362332338

I used the Multi-Router, but you will use the Domino to cut the same
mortises in the aprons ONLY.

Now, cut your tenons on each end of the spindles with your table saw and
fence (be sure to make the spindles longer to allow for the depth of the
mortises on each side).

Now, simply round the edges of the tenons with a file to fit in the
round mortises in the aprons ... just takes a few seconds to file the
1/8" radius to fit in a 1/4" wide mortise.

Let me know if this is not clear to you.

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On 10/8/2012 1:23 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/8/2012 11:47 AM, Han wrote:
For the coffee table I think I'd rather have mortises directly in the
rails for my coffee table, not the strips with dados. Hence my looking
at a mortising machine that could easily make 1/4" square holes for the
spindles' tenons. But thinking more about it, I now think I'll make the
spindles for the coffee table fatter and use small dominos "floating
tenon-wise" to attach them to the rails.



No need to do that, Han.

Here's how to effect the same thing, without compromise, and without the
expense of buying a hollow chisel mortiser.

Notice the rounded mortises cut in the tops and bottoms of the side
aprons to hold the spindle tenons:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...49811362332338


I used the Multi-Router, but you will use the Domino to cut the same
mortises in the aprons ONLY.

Now, cut your tenons on each end of the spindles with your table saw and
fence (be sure to make the spindles longer to allow for the depth of the
mortises on each side).

Now, simply round the edges of the tenons with a file to fit in the
round mortises in the aprons ... just takes a few seconds to file the
1/8" radius to fit in a 1/4" wide mortise.

Let me know if this is not clear to you.


Han, these dimensions make for a nice looking spindle, and one where the
tenons are easy to cut on the table saw because you only need 1/8" of
the blade exposed, and the mortises can be cut to 1/4 x 1/2:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...09421199739506

You don't need to use a dado stack to cut them on the table saw, just a
miter gauge and fence; and with only 1/8" exposed you can safely use the
old back and forth trick over the top of the spinning blade to clean up
the tenon shoulders.

Makes for a nice looking spindle, and one that will not rotate, with or
without glue, which can be a problem when you try to do a full floating
tenon for spindles.

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Swingman wrote in
:

On 10/8/2012 1:23 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/8/2012 11:47 AM, Han wrote:
For the coffee table I think I'd rather have mortises directly in
the rails for my coffee table, not the strips with dados. Hence my
looking at a mortising machine that could easily make 1/4" square
holes for the spindles' tenons. But thinking more about it, I now
think I'll make the spindles for the coffee table fatter and use
small dominos "floating tenon-wise" to attach them to the rails.



No need to do that, Han.

Here's how to effect the same thing, without compromise, and without
the expense of buying a hollow chisel mortiser.

Notice the rounded mortises cut in the tops and bottoms of the side
aprons to hold the spindle tenons:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...ShopArtsCrafts
SofaTable#5790349811362332338


I used the Multi-Router, but you will use the Domino to cut the same
mortises in the aprons ONLY.

Now, cut your tenons on each end of the spindles with your table saw
and fence (be sure to make the spindles longer to allow for the depth
of the mortises on each side).

Now, simply round the edges of the tenons with a file to fit in the
round mortises in the aprons ... just takes a few seconds to file the
1/8" radius to fit in a 1/4" wide mortise.

Let me know if this is not clear to you.


Han, these dimensions make for a nice looking spindle, and one where
the tenons are easy to cut on the table saw because you only need 1/8"
of the blade exposed, and the mortises can be cut to 1/4 x 1/2:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...hopArtsCraftsS
ofaTable#5797009421199739506

You don't need to use a dado stack to cut them on the table saw, just
a miter gauge and fence; and with only 1/8" exposed you can safely use
the old back and forth trick over the top of the spinning blade to
clean up the tenon shoulders.

Makes for a nice looking spindle, and one that will not rotate, with
or without glue, which can be a problem when you try to do a full
floating tenon for spindles.


OK, Karl! Thanks a lot ...

I will indeed use the Domino to make the mortises in the rails/aprons,
then the table saw to make tenons (as squared off rectangles) on the
spindles (which I had also thought to be 3/4x1/2" for the coffee table),
and file the tenns' edges round. Sounds like a plan!!

I used my Incra 1000SE mitergauge with Incra stop thingy before to make
the tenons on the 1/2" spindles exactly like you described, but these
tenons will need to be a bit longer.

On your coffeetable with display case, what did you use for the two
shelves? 3/4" edge-glued boards, or 1/2" plywood? Seems like a waste to
thickness the boards down to 1/2".

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On 10/8/2012 3:37 PM, Han wrote:
On your coffeetable with display case, what did you use for the two
shelves? 3/4" edge-glued boards, or 1/2" plywood? Seems like a waste to
thickness the boards down to 1/2".


3/4" thick, edge glued boards. The span is too great for 1/2" stock

Consider womenfolk think nothing of putting 42lbs of coffee table books
and magazines on the bottom shelf of a coffee table, so plan ahead for
the real possibility of sag.

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Swingman wrote in
:

On 10/8/2012 3:37 PM, Han wrote:
On your coffeetable with display case, what did you use for the two
shelves? 3/4" edge-glued boards, or 1/2" plywood? Seems like a
waste to thickness the boards down to 1/2".


3/4" thick, edge glued boards. The span is too great for 1/2" stock

Consider womenfolk think nothing of putting 42lbs of coffee table
books and magazines on the bottom shelf of a coffee table, so plan
ahead for the real possibility of sag.


LOL, Thanks!!

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LOL! Now, included on my list, when dry fitting: Have the womenfolk come in and field test the design. Check!

Sonny
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On 08 Oct 2012 21:43:50 GMT, Han wrote:

Swingman wrote in
:

On 10/8/2012 3:37 PM, Han wrote:
On your coffeetable with display case, what did you use for the two
shelves? 3/4" edge-glued boards, or 1/2" plywood? Seems like a
waste to thickness the boards down to 1/2".


3/4" thick, edge glued boards. The span is too great for 1/2" stock

Consider womenfolk think nothing of putting 42lbs of coffee table
books and magazines on the bottom shelf of a coffee table, so plan
ahead for the real possibility of sag.


LOL, Thanks!!


Which sagged, the womenfolk or the table shelf? gd&r

--
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On 10/8/2012 8:22 AM, Han wrote:

I might be in the market for a mortiser. Going to look on craigs list and
ebay as well, but a simple question - is the HF Central Machinery - item#
35570 any good, compared to Jet or similar at twice the price?


Depends upon the kind of furniture you plan on making. If you do much
Mission/A&C custom work, a hollow chisel mortiser is basically a must
have somewhere along that road, and they're not all that expensive for
what you get in return.

With the advent of floating tenons, I don't use mine all that much any
longer, but they are hard to beat for doing through tenons, even the
hybrid, "floating through tenon" I use on occasion.

Kind of like the Fein multi-tool, stays put away for months, but when
you need it, nothing else will do the job as efficiently for the way I work.

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Larry Jaques wrote in
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Which sagged, the womenfolk or the table shelf? gd&r


Tsk, tsk

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On Mon, 08 Oct 2012 16:32:07 -0500, Swingman wrote:

Consider womenfolk think nothing of putting 42lbs of coffee table books
and magazines on the bottom shelf of a coffee table,


And you're being optimistic - just ask my wife :-).

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On 10/8/2012 4:44 PM, Swingman wrote:

Kind of like the Fein multi-tool, stays put away for months, but when
you need it, nothing else will do the job as efficiently for the way I
work.

Broke mine Fein out this week to remove some tiles for a kitchen make
over. That stupid,expensive tool saved my ass again. I don't think I
have used it in 5 years but when needed, it was there for me.


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On 10/8/2012 9:47 AM, Han wrote:
Pat Barber wrote in


Learn how to do it with a router and forget those pain in the ass
machines.


I didn't know about that snazzy Domino...forget the router for now, but
when you get the time, learn the process with a router or buy that
big-ass Domino that is now available. I think that we will see several
companies give that a shot in time.



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Pat Barber wrote in news:k51tv6$9kq$1@dont-
email.me:

On 10/8/2012 9:47 AM, Han wrote:
Pat Barber wrote in


Learn how to do it with a router and forget those pain in the ass
machines.


I didn't know about that snazzy Domino...forget the router for now, but
when you get the time, learn the process with a router or buy that
big-ass Domino that is now available. I think that we will see several
companies give that a shot in time.


Pat, that Big-ass Domino XL is for real woodworkers like Swingman and
Leon (grin). I'll have to just double-up some of the bigger size dominos
with the regular machine, if it comes to that with bigger "stuff" that I
would make, but for which there aren't any plans yet.

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Han
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On 10/9/2012 2:23 PM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 10/8/2012 4:44 PM, Swingman wrote:

Kind of like the Fein multi-tool, stays put away for months, but when
you need it, nothing else will do the job as efficiently for the way I
work.

Broke mine Fein out this week to remove some tiles for a kitchen make
over. That stupid,expensive tool saved my ass again. I don't think I
have used it in 5 years but when needed, it was there for me.


Part of a recent remodel was removing two drop-in bath vanity sinks put
in (by someone we all know hereabouts) about twenty years ago.

... he (someone we all know hereabouts) apparently was deathly afraid
the law of gravity might somehow reverse itself and the sinks might fall
up??



AAMOF, I caught the laminate subcontractor, in a fit of desperation to
get them removed, actually heading to his truck to get his tire jack to
try and jack them loose!! ... apparently three separate crews had
already had a shot at removing them, to no avail.

Long story short, my Fein Multi-tool, and the judicious application of
some composite shims, and I singlehandedly had them both on the floor in
less than five minutes.

When there is only one tool for a job that must get done NOW, you better
own it ...

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Default mortiser advice for amateur

On Tuesday, October 9, 2012 4:35:18 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
... he (someone we all know hereabouts) apparently was deathly afraid the law of gravity might somehow reverse itself and the sinks might fall up??


Dominoed them in place!?

Sonny
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Default mortiser advice for amateur

On 10/9/2012 4:35 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/9/2012 2:23 PM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 10/8/2012 4:44 PM, Swingman wrote:

Kind of like the Fein multi-tool, stays put away for months, but when
you need it, nothing else will do the job as efficiently for the way I
work.

Broke mine Fein out this week to remove some tiles for a kitchen make
over. That stupid,expensive tool saved my ass again. I don't think I
have used it in 5 years but when needed, it was there for me.


Part of a recent remodel was removing two drop-in bath vanity sinks put
in (by someone we all know hereabouts) about twenty years ago.

... he (someone we all know hereabouts) apparently was deathly afraid
the law of gravity might somehow reverse itself and the sinks might fall
up??



AAMOF, I caught the laminate subcontractor, in a fit of desperation to
get them removed, actually heading to his truck to get his tire jack to
try and jack them loose!! ... apparently three separate crews had
already had a shot at removing them, to no avail.

Long story short, my Fein Multi-tool, and the judicious application of
some composite shims, and I singlehandedly had them both on the floor in
less than five minutes.

When there is only one tool for a job that must get done NOW, you better
own it ...


Two sinks out in five minutes. the sinks never fell up in 20 years,
never leaked in twenty years and were easily removed by some one that
knows what he is doing with the right tools. Wat's the problem.. LOL
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Default mortiser advice for amateur

On Tue, 09 Oct 2012 12:23:11 -0700, Pat Barber
wrote:

On 10/8/2012 4:44 PM, Swingman wrote:

Kind of like the Fein multi-tool, stays put away for months, but when
you need it, nothing else will do the job as efficiently for the way I
work.

Broke mine Fein out this week to remove some tiles for a kitchen make
over. That stupid,expensive tool saved my ass again. I don't think I
have used it in 5 years but when needed, it was there for me.


I used my HF multitool again last month to cut the end of a tubafore
at a strange angle for clearance, then used it again on the ScreenEZE
metal bracket to shorten it, then once again to trim the plastic caps
of the ScreenEZE.

I have cut quick holes in drywall to mount grab bars in showers,
removed grout from tile, cut notches in tubasixes for posts, etc.

They're DAMNED handy tools, no matter who makes your particular unit.

--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin
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Default mortiser advice for amateur

On Tue, 09 Oct 2012 16:35:12 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 10/9/2012 2:23 PM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 10/8/2012 4:44 PM, Swingman wrote:

Kind of like the Fein multi-tool, stays put away for months, but when
you need it, nothing else will do the job as efficiently for the way I
work.

Broke mine Fein out this week to remove some tiles for a kitchen make
over. That stupid,expensive tool saved my ass again. I don't think I
have used it in 5 years but when needed, it was there for me.


Part of a recent remodel was removing two drop-in bath vanity sinks put
in (by someone we all know hereabouts) about twenty years ago.

... he (someone we all know hereabouts) apparently was deathly afraid
the law of gravity might somehow reverse itself and the sinks might fall
up??



Never regretted buying mine, don't use it very often but when I do it
is the get er done tool. Had a plumber use it on my bathroom remodel
and he was headed to get one after that job. No other tool could have
cut the pipe where it was, and to quote it gave a perfect cut on
copper.

Mike M


AAMOF, I caught the laminate subcontractor, in a fit of desperation to
get them removed, actually heading to his truck to get his tire jack to
try and jack them loose!! ... apparently three separate crews had
already had a shot at removing them, to no avail.

Long story short, my Fein Multi-tool, and the judicious application of
some composite shims, and I singlehandedly had them both on the floor in
less than five minutes.

When there is only one tool for a job that must get done NOW, you better
own it ...

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