Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond
III. Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet
black stain resulted. I thought it might be tannins in the wood, so
tried just clamping a piece of pine to the cast iron with Titebond III
at the interface, and sure enough, a black stain showed up there as
well.
There is apparently an adhesive to iron reaction going on, so
henceforth, cast iron will be isolated from the Titebond in glue ups.
Polyfilm should work OK, likely.

Joe

On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 12:56:37 PM UTC-5, Joe wrote:
Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet black stain resulted.

I think it's the clamp, not the glue. Raise your clamps off the woodwork with shims/spacers. Same with C-clamps, use blocks/spacers between the clamp and the woodwork.

Sonny

Joe wrote:
Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond
III. Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet
black stain resulted. I thought it might be tannins in the wood, so
tried just clamping a piece of pine to the cast iron with Titebond III
at the interface, and sure enough, a black stain showed up there as
well.
There is apparently an adhesive to iron reaction going on, so
henceforth, cast iron will be isolated from the Titebond in glue ups.
Polyfilm should work OK, likely.


The steel blackens because the glue is acidic. So is Titebond ll



--

dadiOH
____________________________

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Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 10:56:37 AM UTC-7, Joe wrote:
Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond III. Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet black stain resulted. I thought it might be tannins in the wood, so tried just clamping a piece of pine to the cast iron with Titebond III at the interface, and sure enough, a black stain showed up there as well. There is apparently an adhesive to iron reaction going on, so henceforth, cast iron will be isolated from the Titebond in glue ups. Polyfilm should work OK, likely. Joe

I've learned this lesson... several times.

On Tue, 2 Oct 2012 11:19:51 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 12:56:37 PM UTC-5, Joe wrote:
Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet black stain resulted.

I think it's the clamp, not the glue. Raise your clamps off the woodwork with shims/spacers. Same with C-clamps, use blocks/spacers between the clamp and the woodwork.

cedarsonny, you should have also told him to wax his Johnson. Erm, I
meant to say Johnson Wax his clamp pipes. It helps keep glue from
sticking to them and keeps the pipes from marring your wood. I always
rub my projects down with lacquer thinner before finishing, so any wax
which might have rubbed onto the surface would come off, anyway.

Alternatively, wax paper works well, too.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On 10/2/2012 2:46 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 10:56:37 AM UTC-7, Joe wrote:
Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond III.

Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet black
stain resulted.

I thought it might be tannins in the wood, so tried just clamping a
piece of pine to

the cast iron with Titebond III at the interface, and sure enough, a
black stain showed

up there as well. There is apparently an adhesive to iron reaction going
on, so henceforth,

cast iron will be isolated from the Titebond in glue ups. Polyfilm
should work OK, likely. Joe

I've learned this lesson... several times.


You don't normally put blocks under your clamps??

Joe wrote in news:1d2bb7e5-5191-4859-89e3-
:

Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond
III. Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet
black stain resulted. I thought it might be tannins in the wood, so
tried just clamping a piece of pine to the cast iron with Titebond III
at the interface, and sure enough, a black stain showed up there as
well.
There is apparently an adhesive to iron reaction going on, so
henceforth, cast iron will be isolated from the Titebond in glue ups.
Polyfilm should work OK, likely.

Joe

Long ago, I came across a tip to use pipe insulation on pipe clamps to
keep the black coating from rubbing off (or to keep the metal from
reacting.) It can be a bit of a hassle, but no more than any other
method.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Joe wrote:

Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond
III. Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet
black stain resulted. I thought it might be tannins in the wood, so
tried just clamping a piece of pine to the cast iron with Titebond III
at the interface, and sure enough, a black stain showed up there as
well.
There is apparently an adhesive to iron reaction going on, so
henceforth, cast iron will be isolated from the Titebond in glue ups.
Polyfilm should work OK, likely.

Joe

That is one of the two reasons I never use black pipe, but always us ridgid
(or thick walled) conduit. The other is, ridgid conduit is cheaper and,
depending on how you cut it, you get your choice of the length of two clamps
for the price of one piece of black pipe.

In case you are wondering, ridgid conduit works just as well as black pipe,
after all, it is merely galvanized pipe that is used for electrical
purposes.

Deb

On 10/2/2012 12:56 PM, Joe wrote:
Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond
III. Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet
black stain resulted. I thought it might be tannins in the wood, so
tried just clamping a piece of pine to the cast iron with Titebond III
at the interface, and sure enough, a black stain showed up there as
well.
There is apparently an adhesive to iron reaction going on, so
henceforth, cast iron will be isolated from the Titebond in glue ups.
Polyfilm should work OK, likely.

Joe



Not terrribly complicated here, this will happen when water touches
iron. Your glue is water based and it causes a reaction with the iron.
This happens with most any wood glue that is water based.

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 16:35:06 -0500, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:

Joe wrote:

Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond
III. Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet
black stain resulted. I thought it might be tannins in the wood, so
tried just clamping a piece of pine to the cast iron with Titebond III
at the interface, and sure enough, a black stain showed up there as
well.
There is apparently an adhesive to iron reaction going on, so
henceforth, cast iron will be isolated from the Titebond in glue ups.
Polyfilm should work OK, likely.

Joe

That is one of the two reasons I never use black pipe, but always us ridgid
(or thick walled) conduit. The other is, ridgid conduit is cheaper and,
depending on how you cut it, you get your choice of the length of two clamps
for the price of one piece of black pipe.

In case you are wondering, ridgid conduit works just as well as black pipe,
after all, it is merely galvanized pipe that is used for electrical
purposes.

Deb

I to use rigid conduit but mainly because it was free as I worked as
an electrician. The galvanizing be hard does make so the clamps don't
grap the the pipe as well but they will grab. I also go thru a lot of
wax paper.

Mike M

On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 10:56:37 AM UTC-7, Joe wrote:
Had a nasty surprise gluing some oak veneered pieces with Titebond

III. Every place there was a contact with the cast iron clamp a jet
black stain resulted.

Oak and iron makes black stains; this can be cleaned up with an
oxalic acid "wood bleach" solution. Keep it damp and the stain
will dissolve, then rinse off. Keep the solution
AWAY FROM ANY IRON ITEMS.

Oak gall and iron are the classical ingredients for nice black ink
with ferrite nanoparticles.