From a personal note to myself:
----------------------------------------------------------------
Dovetails (9-2012, on recycled chest-of-drawers wood, ~7/16" thick)

Absolutely needed for hand-cut DT's: saw with *extremely* thin blade.

Roughly per Woodsmith vol 34 #202:
Used B&D 1/2" DT router bit with 2 positions of fence to cut tails on
one board, then clamp this onto top of pin board, very carefully
layout tails, umclamp and extend tails vertically onto side after
drawing line (both sides) for depth of cut.

Very carefully strip out center of pin lines on table saw, then finish
cutting tails with coping saw/Marples chisel. Sand/rasp/file to fit.

Doesn't work properly with Disston DT saw. Kerf jumps all over the
place, violates layout lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Note that the tails did not fit accurately b/c none of my saws would
allow accurately cutting on the layout lines.

I figger I could likely *start* an accurate cut with the chisel.

What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

Thx,
P


"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

On 9/20/2012 1:50 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:
From a personal note to myself:
----------------------------------------------------------------
Dovetails (9-2012, on recycled chest-of-drawers wood, ~7/16" thick)

Absolutely needed for hand-cut DT's: saw with *extremely* thin blade.

Roughly per Woodsmith vol 34 #202:
Used B&D 1/2" DT router bit with 2 positions of fence to cut tails on
one board, then clamp this onto top of pin board, very carefully
layout tails, umclamp and extend tails vertically onto side after
drawing line (both sides) for depth of cut.

Very carefully strip out center of pin lines on table saw, then finish
cutting tails with coping saw/Marples chisel. Sand/rasp/file to fit.

Doesn't work properly with Disston DT saw. Kerf jumps all over the
place, violates layout lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Note that the tails did not fit accurately b/c none of my saws would
allow accurately cutting on the layout lines.

I figger I could likely *start* an accurate cut with the chisel.

What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?



http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/208...FS-RPAodP2YA0A

[...snip...]

What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

Thx,
P


"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

The Veritas saw that Leon recommended is a fine choice.

But you don't really need a chisel cut for dovetail work. What you
need is good sawing technique and some practice. Good technique,
especially not gripping the handle too tight, will make all the
difference.

But to make the cleanest cut for an edge that shows, such as a tenon
shoulder, you would scribe the line with a knife against the square,
then deepen it with the knife and then you would pare out a wedge
shaped slice from the waste side (with the knife or a chisel).

And be aware that a newly sharpened saw may have a bit too much set on
the left or right and want to drift in that direction. You can use a
pass or two on a sharpening stone to fix that.

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:50:49 -0500, Puddin' Man
wrote:

From a personal note to myself:
----------------------------------------------------------------
Dovetails (9-2012, on recycled chest-of-drawers wood, ~7/16" thick)

Absolutely needed for hand-cut DT's: saw with *extremely* thin blade.

Roughly per Woodsmith vol 34 #202:
Used B&D 1/2" DT router bit with 2 positions of fence to cut tails on
one board, then clamp this onto top of pin board, very carefully
layout tails, umclamp and extend tails vertically onto side after
drawing line (both sides) for depth of cut.

Very carefully strip out center of pin lines on table saw, then finish
cutting tails with coping saw/Marples chisel. Sand/rasp/file to fit.

Doesn't work properly with Disston DT saw. Kerf jumps all over the
place, violates layout lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Note that the tails did not fit accurately b/c none of my saws would
allow accurately cutting on the layout lines.

Resharpen it for rip cuts (no tooth set) and then take some time to
learn how to use it precisely, PM.


I figger I could likely *start* an accurate cut with the chisel.

What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

Yes, my ryoba is a treat when cutting fine kerfs. I'd use it.
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...apanWoodworker

I recently got an azibiki but haven't tried it for dovies yet.
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...ept _id=13088

Razor saws rule!

--
I would be the most content if my children grew up to be the kind of people
who think decorating consists mostly of building enough bookshelves.
-- Anna Quindlen

Adria dovetail saw. The best.

ADRIA dovetail and tenon saws are guaranteed to cut straight and fast. They are handcrafted one at a time and each saw is tuned-up and tested. The saw passes the test once it makes a full depth, absolutely straight cut in hardwood. The hardness of the steel used for blades is RC54, which is harder than in any of the competing saws. This means that your saw will require infrequent sharpening. This saw will cut very aggressively because of the precise sharpening. The maker does a test cut with every saw before it is shipped and makes sure that it cuts flawlessly. The saw that you receive will cut fast, track straight and leave thin kerf. A lot of attention has been paid to the design of the handle. This handle fits to your hand like a glove. The handle is made out of Bubinga and has a pleasant red-brown tone. ADRIA TOOLS are produced in Vancouver/Canada.





On Thursday, September 20, 2012 1:50:52 PM UTC-5, Puddin' Man wrote:
From a personal note to myself:

----------------------------------------------------------------

Dovetails (9-2012, on recycled chest-of-drawers wood, ~7/16" thick)



Absolutely needed for hand-cut DT's: saw with *extremely* thin blade.



Roughly per Woodsmith vol 34 #202:

Used B&D 1/2" DT router bit with 2 positions of fence to cut tails on

one board, then clamp this onto top of pin board, very carefully

layout tails, umclamp and extend tails vertically onto side after

drawing line (both sides) for depth of cut.



Very carefully strip out center of pin lines on table saw, then finish

cutting tails with coping saw/Marples chisel. Sand/rasp/file to fit.



Doesn't work properly with Disston DT saw. Kerf jumps all over the

place, violates layout lines.

----------------------------------------------------------------



Note that the tails did not fit accurately b/c none of my saws would

allow accurately cutting on the layout lines.



I figger I could likely *start* an accurate cut with the chisel.



What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the

layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?



Thx,

P





"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

On Sep 20, 3:20*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 9/20/2012 1:50 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:









*From a personal note to myself:
----------------------------------------------------------------
Dovetails (9-2012, on recycled chest-of-drawers wood, ~7/16" thick)

Absolutely needed for hand-cut DT's: saw with *extremely* thin blade.

Roughly per Woodsmith vol 34 #202:
Used B&D 1/2" DT router bit with 2 positions of fence to cut tails on
one board, then clamp this onto top of pin board, very carefully
layout tails, umclamp and extend tails vertically onto side after
drawing line (both sides) for depth of cut.

Very carefully strip out center of pin lines on table saw, then finish
cutting tails with coping saw/Marples chisel. Sand/rasp/file to fit.

Doesn't work properly with Disston DT saw. Kerf jumps all over the
place, violates layout lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Note that the tails did not fit accurately b/c none of my saws would
allow accurately cutting on the layout lines.

I figger I could likely *start* an accurate cut with the chisel.

What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/208...FINECUT-DOVETA...

Same store, a bit cheaper at $16, but does a nice job --
easy, fast cut, no jumping -- if you stone out most of the set.
I use these for sawing guitar fret slots. Set can be reduced
to cut an 0.022" kerf before the blade binds.

Puddin' Man wrote:
From a personal note to myself:
----------------------------------------------------------------
Dovetails (9-2012, on recycled chest-of-drawers wood, ~7/16" thick)

Absolutely needed for hand-cut DT's: saw with *extremely* thin blade.

Roughly per Woodsmith vol 34 #202:
Used B&D 1/2" DT router bit with 2 positions of fence to cut tails on
one board, then clamp this onto top of pin board, very carefully
layout tails, umclamp and extend tails vertically onto side after
drawing line (both sides) for depth of cut.

Very carefully strip out center of pin lines on table saw, then finish
cutting tails with coping saw/Marples chisel. Sand/rasp/file to fit.

Doesn't work properly with Disston DT saw. Kerf jumps all over the
place, violates layout lines.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Note that the tails did not fit accurately b/c none of my saws would
allow accurately cutting on the layout lines.

I figger I could likely *start* an accurate cut with the chisel.

What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

Any decent dozuki.

Note: use carefully, the teeth are brittle and have a tendency to break off.
If they do, may be no big problem as long as you have enough length with
unbroken teeth to use. My favorite, 35+ year old dozuki has a few missing
teeth at both front & rear but middle is fine.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 07:31:10 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

Any decent dozuki.

Note: use carefully, the teeth are brittle and have a tendency to break off.
If they do, may be no big problem as long as you have enough length with
unbroken teeth to use. My favorite, 35+ year old dozuki has a few missing
teeth at both front & rear but middle is fine.

I've bent a few teeth on my ryoba but none have broken off yet. I
really should have built a portable till for it years ago...


Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

You STILL have that old place? Put the darned thing on half-price
sale. You'll off it in no time. Just don't advertise the gawdawful
masses of Floridian bugs, swampagators, the nasty stormfronts, the
tornadoes, the hurricanes, or all the illegals.

--
Life is like one big Mardi Gras. But instead of showing your boobs,
show people your brain, and if they like what they see, you'll have
more beads than you know what to do with.
-- Ellen DeGeneres, Tulane Commencement Speech, 2009

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 07:31:10 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

Any decent dozuki.

Note: use carefully, the teeth are brittle and have a tendency to
break off. If they do, may be no big problem as long as you have
enough length with unbroken teeth to use. My favorite, 35+ year old
dozuki has a few missing teeth at both front & rear but middle is
fine.

I've bent a few teeth on my ryoba but none have broken off yet. I
really should have built a portable till for it years ago...

Dozukis are much more delicate than ryobas. My ryoba - same age as the
dozuki - has no broken OR bent teeth. All my dozukis do.

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

You STILL have that old place? Put the darned thing on half-price
sale. You'll off it in no time. Just don't advertise the gawdawful
masses of Floridian bugs, swampagators, the nasty stormfronts, the
tornadoes, the hurricanes, or all the illegals.

You forgot lack of snow No place in the US better for weather except
Hawaii and it is too congested, pricey, etc. Had almost 40 years of it.

We really haven't been trying to sell it. The rental income is nice and we
don't mind waiting a while for the market to get stronger. Which it is.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" writes:


You forgot lack of snow No place in the US better for weather except
Hawaii and it is too congested, pricey, etc. Had almost 40 years of it.


As I understand it, San Diego has the best weather in the continental US.

San Jose is a close second.

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/climate/year...ea r&stn=KSJC

On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 11:53:59 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 07:31:10 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

Any decent dozuki.

Note: use carefully, the teeth are brittle and have a tendency to
break off. If they do, may be no big problem as long as you have
enough length with unbroken teeth to use. My favorite, 35+ year old
dozuki has a few missing teeth at both front & rear but middle is
fine.

I've bent a few teeth on my ryoba but none have broken off yet. I
really should have built a portable till for it years ago...

Dozukis are much more delicate than ryobas. My ryoba - same age as the
dozuki - has no broken OR bent teeth. All my dozukis do.

I'm glad I've stuck with a ryoba. How often do you use yours? I just
realized that mine is 9-ish years old and didn't seem to be cutting as
well as I thought it should this morning, shortening a piece of
hemlock handrail. Time for a replacement blade.


Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

You STILL have that old place? Put the darned thing on half-price
sale. You'll off it in no time. Just don't advertise the gawdawful
masses of Floridian bugs, swampagators, the nasty stormfronts, the
tornadoes, the hurricanes, or all the illegals.

You forgot lack of snow No place in the US better for weather except
Hawaii and it is too congested, pricey, etc. Had almost 40 years of it.

Possible Orlando-area Sales Pitch:

"In between our tornadoes and hurricanes (which blow the bugs away),
the weather is very nice, if you like humidity."


We really haven't been trying to sell it. The rental income is nice and we
don't mind waiting a while for the market to get stronger. Which it is.

I've seen that sig file for several years now, is why I mentioned it.
I change my sigs every few days.

--
Life is like one big Mardi Gras. But instead of showing your boobs,
show people your brain, and if they like what they see, you'll have
more beads than you know what to do with.
-- Ellen DeGeneres, Tulane Commencement Speech, 2009

On Thu, 20 Sep 2012 13:50:49 -0500, Puddin' Man
wrote:

From a personal note to myself:
----------------------------------------------------------------
Dovetails (9-2012, on recycled chest-of-drawers wood, ~7/16" thick)

Absolutely needed for hand-cut DT's: saw with *extremely* thin blade.

[...snip...]

If you need very thin, you might check these out:

http://www.zonatool.net/razor-saws.html

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 11:53:59 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 07:31:10 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
What saw would let me accurately follow such a chisel cut on the
layout lines? One of those Nipponese saws (which?)?

Any decent dozuki.

Note: use carefully, the teeth are brittle and have a tendency to
break off. If they do, may be no big problem as long as you have
enough length with unbroken teeth to use. My favorite, 35+ year
old dozuki has a few missing teeth at both front & rear but middle
is fine.

I've bent a few teeth on my ryoba but none have broken off yet. I
really should have built a portable till for it years ago...

Dozukis are much more delicate than ryobas. My ryoba - same age as
the dozuki - has no broken OR bent teeth. All my dozukis do.

I'm glad I've stuck with a ryoba. How often do you use yours?

Rarely. I use the dozuki(s) with some regularity...whenever I need a
precise cut on something smallish. For grosser things, it is easier/faster
to use a jig/table/radial saw than the ryoba. It does come in handy on
occasion if I'm where power isn't.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Fri, 21 Sep 2012 15:26:29 -0700, Jim Weisgram
If you need very thin, you might check these out:
http://www.zonatool.net/razor-saws.html

And if you want really, really thin for dovetails, then these are the
ultimate solution. Only, they cost an arm and a leg. Had one for
awhile, but sold it when I decided I needed something capable of
cutting wider pieces.

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...maker-pro.html

" wrote:

Adria dovetail saw. The best.

ADRIA dovetail and tenon saws are guaranteed to cut straight and fast. They are handcrafted one at a time and each saw is tuned-up and tested. The saw passes the test once it makes a full depth, absolutely straight cut in hardwood. The hardness of the steel used for blades is RC54, which is harder than in any of the competing saws. This means that your saw will require infrequent sharpening. This saw will cut very aggressively because of the precise sharpening. The maker does a test cut with every saw before it is shipped and makes sure that it cuts flawlessly. The saw that you receive will cut fast, track straight and leave thin kerf. A lot of attention has been paid to the design of the handle. This handle fits to your hand like a glove. The handle is made out of Bubinga and has a pleasant red-brown tone. ADRIA TOOLS are produced in Vancouver/Canada.

OP: I agree with everything Russell has said above, and love my Adria
DT saw. That said, getting good dovetails is much more about technique
and practice than it is about equipment. Practice and a $19 hardware
store saw will get you much better results than you will get with a
fine dovetail saw and poor technique.

Either Japanese style or western saws will yield excellent results in
the hands of someone skilled in their use. You can see lots of
beautiful examples of both on the web, and can read lots of pointless
bickering about which is best. While my personal preference is for a
western-style saw like the Adria, if you are not willing to put in the
time to practice, I think that you will get better results with an
inexpensive Japanese-style saw.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.