Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important adjustment or
critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip cut on the table
saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a panel may be off as much
as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged contractor's with folding stand 10".


Sal

On 8/11/2012 9:11 AM, sal wrote:
Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important adjustment or
critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip cut on the table
saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a panel may be off as much
as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged contractor's with folding stand 10".


Sal




Starting with straight wood.

Using a blade that does not flex, that means no thin kerf blades.

Insuring that you fence is "perfectly" parallel to your blade.

Practice

Practice

Practice

On 8/11/2012 10:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 8/11/2012 9:11 AM, sal wrote:
Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important
adjustment or
critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip cut on the table
saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a panel may be off as
much
as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged contractor's with folding
stand 10".


Sal




Starting with straight wood.

Using a blade that does not flex, that means no thin kerf blades.

Insuring that you fence is "perfectly" parallel to your blade.

Practice

Practice

Practice

I don't think he is using a contractor saw, I think a benchtop, portable
saw... which means that it will be using a thin kerf.. since it will
have a universal motor.

I bent my Freud Diablo miter saw blade again. Damn thin kerf...
I was making a wheel truing stand for my sons bike, and was cutting a
piece of wood 5/16 by 3/4 and 2 feet long. The piece that cut off kicked
back when the blade hadn't cut all the way through. I came down again
and it kicked, bending the blade. I am borrowing a crappy sliding miter
saw from a friend since I destroyed mine (dropped down the stairs). The
thin kerf is certainly delicate. But I don't see a miter blade that is
not thin kerf. Even Forrest's blades are thin for the Miter saw.

The plate is now .004 out on the Freud, very noticeable cut change..
scoring of the side.

"sal" wrote in :

Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important
adjustment or critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip
cut on the table saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a
panel may be off as much as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged
contractor's with folding stand 10".


Sal



I wouldn't say I was a wood pro, but I did cut a board last night.

One of the things I've found essential to making a straight accurate rip
on the TS is keeping the board tight to the fence. It's easy to let the
board wander that little bit and then the cut is either undersized or
wavy.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"sal" wrote:
Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important adjustment or
critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip cut on the table
saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a panel may be off as much
as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged contractor's with folding stand 10".

Got a splitter?

Put it on.

With the fence, table top (miter slot), and blade parallel, the splitter
will protect you from kickback and help keep the stock running straight and
against the fence.

The most common cause of a trapezoidal stock cut on the table saw is a
poorly setup saw (one or more of the above parameters off).

--
www.ewoodshop.com

I agree with the other posters. Also, the board may bend away or
toward the fence, while cutting, by virtue of stresses in the board
being released and/or moisture release, contributing the board bending
as it's cut, especially with air dried lumber.

You say you have this problem cutting a panel. A plywood panel? A
regular board as being the "panel"? Identify your "panel",
specifically.

Do you have this problem with all your wood cutting?

Sonny

Hi Sonny I should have said plywood. I did some adjustment to my fence and
squared up saw blade to miter slots on the table. What a difference , cuts
like a charm I guess I got sloppy in my old age. Thanks for the help guys.


Sal
"Sonny" wrote in message
...
I agree with the other posters. Also, the board may bend away or
toward the fence, while cutting, by virtue of stresses in the board
being released and/or moisture release, contributing the board bending
as it's cut, especially with air dried lumber.

You say you have this problem cutting a panel. A plywood panel? A
regular board as being the "panel"? Identify your "panel",
specifically.

Do you have this problem with all your wood cutting?

Sonny

On 8/12/2012 6:59 AM, sal wrote:
Hi Sonny I should have said plywood. I did some adjustment to my fence and
squared up saw blade to miter slots on the table. What a difference , cuts
like a charm I guess I got sloppy in my old age. Thanks for the help guys.


Sal


Great!, keep in mind also that plywood sheets can be heavy and often
are not perfectly flat. Those characteristics tend to add to the
difficulty in achieving a good cut.

On 8/11/2012 9:11 AM, sal wrote:
Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important adjustment or
critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip cut on the table
saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a panel may be off as much
as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged contractor's with folding stand 10".


Sal




So Sal, did you ever dream that this post would take this turn? LOL

Sorry for all the confusion and havoc on your post. Glad to know that
you have solve the problem.

Hi Leon I never dreamed I would cause such a kafuffle,this could have
resulted in a real Donnybrook.I've been called S--- disturber before in an
offhand way. I did learn quite bit and hope nobody has any grudges or
animosity because of the post. I always say ""Have a nice day somewhere
else"".

Sal

"sal" wrote in message
...
Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important adjustment
or critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip cut on the table
saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a panel may be off as
much as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged contractor's with folding
stand 10".


Sal

On 8/14/2012 7:28 AM, sal wrote:
Hi Leon I never dreamed I would cause such a kafuffle,this could have
resulted in a real Donnybrook.I've been called S--- disturber before in an
offhand way. I did learn quite bit and hope nobody has any grudges or
animosity because of the post. I always say ""Have a nice day somewhere
else"".

Sal

"sal" wrote in message
...
Hello wood pro's what in your opinion is the most important adjustment
or critical requirement to making a straight accurate rip cut on the table
saw?I do have difficulty in this area one end of a panel may be off as
much as a 1/16"-3/32" . The saw is a Ridged contractor's with folding
stand 10".


Sal







Sal you are in no way responsible for me being hooked by the troll. I
claim half the responsibility for even responding to him.