A discussion over on Facebook reminded me of another acquaintance of mine
falling victim to a power tool accident (a different guy than the one in the my
"Table saw accident" thread from late May).

A few weeks ago I was standing in line at my favorite local BBQ place (Texas
Rib Kings in Austin) and I noticed the owner (a younger guy; probably
mid-thirties) had a large cast-like bandage covering his right hand. I said
"What did you do; hoot your poor wittle self?" He said, "Yeah, I cut off all
my fingers in a Skil-saw accident!" and he holds up his hand (which was only
partially covered by the "bandage") to reveal a ring finger that was missing
near the larger knuckle, and the remaining three had clearly been reattached
and looking considerably less happy than their former selves. I said "DAMN
BUBBA! How the hell did you do that?! And why didn't you stop with the first
one?!" He told me a hurried story (he was running the register) about cutting
a piece of plywood with his left hand (he's right-handed) in some awkward
situation while holding it "steady" with his right, and with his fingers
underneath. Some kind of binding or kick-back ensued and the saw jumped right
through the wood where his fingers were, and it was all over in an instant.
I'm not sure why they couldn't attach the ring finger; the blade probably blew
right through the knuckle. Ouch. I didn't bother telling him that the whole
incident sounded like something a dumbass would do.

The next time I went in there for lunch I asked somebody else "where Ol' Nine
Fingers was" (I can never remember his name). Now everybody calls him that...

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 7/6/2012 11:23 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
A discussion over on Facebook reminded me of another acquaintance of
mine falling victim to a power tool accident (a different guy than the
one in the my "Table saw accident" thread from late May).

A few weeks ago I was standing in line at my favorite local BBQ place
(Texas Rib Kings in Austin) and I noticed the owner (a younger guy;
probably mid-thirties) had a large cast-like bandage covering his right
hand. I said "What did you do; hoot your poor wittle self?" He said,
"Yeah, I cut off all my fingers in a Skil-saw accident!" and he holds up
his hand (which was only partially covered by the "bandage") to reveal a
ring finger that was missing near the larger knuckle, and the remaining
three had clearly been reattached and looking considerably less happy
than their former selves. I said "DAMN BUBBA! How the hell did you do
that?! And why didn't you stop with the first one?!" He told me a
hurried story (he was running the register) about cutting a piece of
plywood with his left hand (he's right-handed) in some awkward situation
while holding it "steady" with his right, and with his fingers
underneath. Some kind of binding or kick-back ensued and the saw jumped
right through the wood where his fingers were, and it was all over in an
instant. I'm not sure why they couldn't attach the ring finger; the
blade probably blew right through the knuckle. Ouch. I didn't bother
telling him that the whole incident sounded like something a dumbass
would do.

The next time I went in there for lunch I asked somebody else "where Ol'
Nine Fingers was" (I can never remember his name). Now everybody calls
him that...



Probably using a right handed/bladed, the most common circular saw, with
his left hand so that he could see the blade and the cut.

Circular saws that are right bladed are intended for use with the right
hand.

On 7/6/2012 1:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 7/6/2012 11:23 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
A discussion over on Facebook reminded me of another acquaintance of
mine falling victim to a power tool accident (a different guy than the
one in the my "Table saw accident" thread from late May).

A few weeks ago I was standing in line at my favorite local BBQ place
(Texas Rib Kings in Austin) and I noticed the owner (a younger guy;
probably mid-thirties) had a large cast-like bandage covering his right
hand. I said "What did you do; hoot your poor wittle self?" He said,
"Yeah, I cut off all my fingers in a Skil-saw accident!" and he holds up
his hand (which was only partially covered by the "bandage") to reveal a
ring finger that was missing near the larger knuckle, and the remaining
three had clearly been reattached and looking considerably less happy
than their former selves. I said "DAMN BUBBA! How the hell did you do
that?! And why didn't you stop with the first one?!" He told me a
hurried story (he was running the register) about cutting a piece of
plywood with his left hand (he's right-handed) in some awkward situation
while holding it "steady" with his right, and with his fingers
underneath. Some kind of binding or kick-back ensued and the saw jumped
right through the wood where his fingers were, and it was all over in an
instant. I'm not sure why they couldn't attach the ring finger; the
blade probably blew right through the knuckle. Ouch. I didn't bother
telling him that the whole incident sounded like something a dumbass
would do.

The next time I went in there for lunch I asked somebody else "where Ol'
Nine Fingers was" (I can never remember his name). Now everybody calls
him that...



Probably using a right handed/bladed, the most common circular saw, with
his left hand so that he could see the blade and the cut.

Circular saws that are right bladed are intended for use with the right
hand.
One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino wrote:

On 7/6/2012 1:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 7/6/2012 11:23 AM, Steve Turner wrote:
A discussion over on Facebook reminded me of another acquaintance of
mine falling victim to a power tool accident (a different guy than the
one in the my "Table saw accident" thread from late May).

A few weeks ago I was standing in line at my favorite local BBQ place
(Texas Rib Kings in Austin) and I noticed the owner (a younger guy;
probably mid-thirties) had a large cast-like bandage covering his right
hand. I said "What did you do; hoot your poor wittle self?" He said,
"Yeah, I cut off all my fingers in a Skil-saw accident!" and he holds up
his hand (which was only partially covered by the "bandage") to reveal a
ring finger that was missing near the larger knuckle, and the remaining
three had clearly been reattached and looking considerably less happy
than their former selves. I said "DAMN BUBBA! How the hell did you do
that?! And why didn't you stop with the first one?!" He told me a
hurried story (he was running the register) about cutting a piece of
plywood with his left hand (he's right-handed) in some awkward situation
while holding it "steady" with his right, and with his fingers
underneath. Some kind of binding or kick-back ensued and the saw jumped
right through the wood where his fingers were, and it was all over in an
instant. I'm not sure why they couldn't attach the ring finger; the
blade probably blew right through the knuckle. Ouch. I didn't bother
telling him that the whole incident sounded like something a dumbass
would do.

The next time I went in there for lunch I asked somebody else "where Ol'
Nine Fingers was" (I can never remember his name). Now everybody calls
him that...



Probably using a right handed/bladed, the most common circular saw, with
his left hand so that he could see the blade and the cut.

Circular saws that are right bladed are intended for use with the right
hand.
One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

Festool track saw. ;-)

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:



One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather
gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut
wood while wearing gloves.

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 22:21:00 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:



One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather
gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut
wood while wearing gloves.

Then you not aware of the new-age gloves available these days.

"Class III" cut resistant gloves area amazing. Supple, I can pick up
a dime (if it's 1/8" thick with a tapered edge), but DAMN! it 's CUT
RESTISTANT.

Explore people, it's amazing waht's out there.

-Zz

On 7/6/12 9:27 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 22:21:00 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:



One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather
gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut
wood while wearing gloves.

Then you not aware of the new-age gloves available these days.

"Class III" cut resistant gloves area amazing. Supple, I can pick up
a dime (if it's 1/8" thick with a tapered edge), but DAMN! it 's CUT
RESTISTANT.

Explore people, it's amazing waht's out there.

-Zz


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull
your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III" gloves
are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote in
:


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and
pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III"
gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.

If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade
will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and
force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 7/6/12 10:49 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and
pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III"
gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.

If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade
will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and
force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.

Puckdropper


Besides that, it's going to cut the $h!t out of your hand. :-)
I really doubt those gloves were ever intended to resist cuts from
power tools, and certainly not a 3hp tablesaw.
I'm guessing they are for utility blades and other hand tools.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 7/6/12 10:49 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and
pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III"
gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.

If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade
will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and
force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.

Puckdropper


Besides that, it's going to cut the $h!t out of your hand. :-)
I really doubt those gloves were ever intended to resist cuts from
power tools, and certainly not a 3hp tablesaw.
I'm guessing they are for utility blades and other hand tools.

I'm not sure about what the "class III" means, but the mylar ones are
for such things as working with glass. I know woodcarvers who wear them
on the hand that's not holding a knife. The mylar wouldn't prevent a
puncture but it would prevent a slash.

Zz Yzx wrote in news:be7fv7lbssun87go4c25d3703d1ku7c64u@
4ax.com:

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 22:21:00 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:



One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather
gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut
wood while wearing gloves.

Then you not aware of the new-age gloves available these days.

I didn't realize that leather was a "new-age" material.

"Class III" cut resistant gloves area amazing. Supple, I can pick up
a dime (if it's 1/8" thick with a tapered edge), but DAMN! it 's CUT
RESTISTANT.

Apparently *you* are not aware of what a "cut resistant" glove is for.

Their purpose is to protect woodcarvers from a slip of a knife or carving chisel. They WILL
NOT protect your hands from a saw blade. Sure, maybe the blade won't cut through the
glove, but it can sure as hell snag the fabric. When a 10" table saw blade (tip speed
approximately 110 mph) snags the glove, what do you suppose will happen to the hand
that's inside the glove?

Wearing gloves of any sort when operating power woodworking tools isn't very smart.

"Doug Miller" wrote

Wearing gloves of any sort when operating power woodworking tools isn't
very smart.

That fits into the category of neckties, long sleeves, untamed long hair,
etc. Anything a fast moving, cutting tool can grab is dangerous. Don't
give the tool something to grab! It is that simple.

On 7/6/2012 10:49 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and
pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III"
gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.

If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade
will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and
force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.

True that. Even so... Looking at the description of these types of
gloves for the obvious "DO NOT EXPECT PROTECTION FROM STUPIDITY WHILE
OPERATING A TABLE SAW" disclaimer, I see that the level 4 and 5 (highest
rated) contain both Kevlar and Stainless Steel wire interwoven.

Ever accidentally run a circular saw through old work containing a nail?
How'd that work out, Zz?

Then, too, with all that Kevlar and wire, just how supple and sensitive
can they be. And all for $16.00 too!

What's the saying? Ah, yes, "A fool and his fingers are soon separated"

Kevlar can be cut with a scissor. I used to take a scissor and use
sandpaper to serate the edges, then cut kevlar like butta...

So take that glove, stick a piece of wood in it, and find out how much
protection you really have...

I'll bet the wood is mashed or cut.

On 7/7/2012 8:25 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 7/6/2012 10:49 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and
pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III"
gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.

If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade
will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and
force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.

True that. Even so... Looking at the description of these types of
gloves for the obvious "DO NOT EXPECT PROTECTION FROM STUPIDITY WHILE
OPERATING A TABLE SAW" disclaimer, I see that the level 4 and 5 (highest
rated) contain both Kevlar and Stainless Steel wire interwoven.

Ever accidentally run a circular saw through old work containing a nail?
How'd that work out, Zz?

Then, too, with all that Kevlar and wire, just how supple and sensitive
can they be. And all for $16.00 too!

What's the saying? Ah, yes, "A fool and his fingers are soon separated"

On 7/6/2012 9:21 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:



One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather
gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut
wood while wearing gloves.



And like the gloves were going to prevent a cut. Actually the gloves
don't add any danger from the aspect of pulling your hand into the
blade, the blade will simply cut through the leather as it wold the wood
or your hand. I have conducted an experiment with leather/canvas work
gloves. I laid the glove on the saw and pushed it into the blade with a
stick. The glove stay where ever I pushed it regardless of how far into
the glove the bade had cut.

Now gloves around a drill press or lathe would be another matter, the
glove is less likely to be cut and really pull you in.

On 7/6/2012 10:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/6/12 9:27 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 22:21:00 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:



One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather
gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut
wood while wearing gloves.

Then you not aware of the new-age gloves available these days.

"Class III" cut resistant gloves area amazing. Supple, I can pick up
a dime (if it's 1/8" thick with a tapered edge), but DAMN! it 's CUT
RESTISTANT.

Explore people, it's amazing waht's out there.

-Zz


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull
your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III" gloves
are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.




No it wont. The blade will simply cut the leather and not pull it in.
Yes I did do an experiment to disprove the belief.

On 7/7/2012 12:06 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:


"Doug Miller" wrote

Wearing gloves of any sort when operating power woodworking tools
isn't very smart.

That fits into the category of neckties, long sleeves, untamed long
hair, etc. Anything a fast moving, cutting tool can grab is dangerous.
Don't give the tool something to grab! It is that simple.

No problem ... ex post facto, file a suit against the manufacturer in
Massachusetts.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Friday, July 6, 2012 11:03:08 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:

He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull
your hand into the blade.

That has not been my experience. A while back I was resawing on a TS and there was a significant hollow on the blade side of the board. Due to the extremely splintery nature of the wood I was wearing leather gloves. About halfway through the cut the blade came out the side of the wood and I felt a slight vibration on the tip of my middle finger. The blade had cut through the leather and had just nicked my finger. The blade didn't catch and slam, it cut.

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 07:25:44 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 7/6/2012 10:49 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and
pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III"
gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.

If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade
will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and
force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.

True that. Even so... Looking at the description of these types of
gloves for the obvious "DO NOT EXPECT PROTECTION FROM STUPIDITY WHILE
OPERATING A TABLE SAW" disclaimer, I see that the level 4 and 5 (highest
rated) contain both Kevlar and Stainless Steel wire interwoven.

Ever accidentally run a circular saw through old work containing a nail?
How'd that work out, Zz?

Then, too, with all that Kevlar and wire, just how supple and sensitive
can they be. And all for $16.00 too!

What's the saying? Ah, yes, "A fool and his fingers are soon separated"


I'd not want to put any of these up against a table saw blade. I've
cut through brads and small nails with no problems, so a woven SS cord
it not going to do much for a carbide tipped 10" spinning blade.



Cut: The cut rating is based on the performance rating classified by
ANSI/ISEA 105-2005 from a 0-5 level based on the Cut Protection
Performance Test (CPPT) value. Cut performance rating measures the
amount of force (in grams) applied for failure to occur at 25mm
distance
of travel for a standard cutting blade.
Ansell uses the following standards when reporting cut test values:
• Multiple tests are conducted
• All tests follow ASTM F 1790-97 procedures

ANSI Cut Level Cut (Grams)
0 200
1 . 200
2 . 500
3 . 1,000
4 . 1,500
5 . 3,500

There should be big difference from a cut at a glancing and defecting
angle vs. a direct, inline, forced push through a blade though.

------
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
I'd not want to put any of these up against a table saw blade. I've
cut through brads and small nails with no problems, so a woven SS cord
it not going to do much for a carbide tipped 10" spinning blade.

On 7/6/12 11:19 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
Their purpose is to protect woodcarvers from a slip of a knife or carving chisel. They WILL
NOT protect your hands from a saw blade. Sure, maybe the blade won't cut through the
glove, ...

It will cut through the glove... followed by the hand, followed by the
bone. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/7/12 8:18 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/6/2012 10:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/6/12 9:27 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 22:21:00 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:



One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the
piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just
hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather
gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut
wood while wearing gloves.

Then you not aware of the new-age gloves available these days.

"Class III" cut resistant gloves area amazing. Supple, I can pick up
a dime (if it's 1/8" thick with a tapered edge), but DAMN! it 's CUT
RESTISTANT.

Explore people, it's amazing waht's out there.

-Zz


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull
your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III" gloves
are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.




No it wont. The blade will simply cut the leather and not pull it in.
Yes I did do an experiment to disprove the belief.


I believe you. I would like to see the same experiment done with these
"high tech: glove that aren't made from natural animal hide. I'm
guessing those strong strands of steel and kevlar wouldn't so forgiving.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/7/12 8:31 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2012 11:03:08 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:

He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull
your hand into the blade.

That has not been my experience. A while back I was resawing on a TS
and there was a significant hollow on the blade side of the board. Due
to the extremely splintery nature of the wood I was wearing leather
gloves. About halfway through the cut the blade came out the side of the
wood and I felt a slight vibration on the tip of my middle finger. The
blade had cut through the leather and had just nicked my finger. The
blade didn't catch and slam, it cut.


I sit corrected. :-) As I mentioned in Leon's reply, I would like to see
what happens with a glove made of kevlar and steel mesh. I think a
strong woven fabric would be a different story than natural animal hide.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article , tiredofspam
says...

Kevlar can be cut with a scissor. I used to take a scissor and use
sandpaper to serate the edges, then cut kevlar like butta...

So take that glove, stick a piece of wood in it, and find out how much
protection you really have...

I'll bet the wood is mashed or cut.

How about sticking a sausage in it, something that's more finger
consistency? I'm betting though that the glove is going to prove little
protection.

And the stainless wire in the glove is not of a particularly heavy
gage--if enough of it unravels it may eventually stall the saw but but
that time the person wearing the glove isn't going to much care.

On 7/7/2012 8:25 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 7/6/2012 10:49 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in
:


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and
pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III"
gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.

If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade
will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and
force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.

True that. Even so... Looking at the description of these types of
gloves for the obvious "DO NOT EXPECT PROTECTION FROM STUPIDITY WHILE
OPERATING A TABLE SAW" disclaimer, I see that the level 4 and 5 (highest
rated) contain both Kevlar and Stainless Steel wire interwoven.

Ever accidentally run a circular saw through old work containing a nail?
How'd that work out, Zz?

Then, too, with all that Kevlar and wire, just how supple and sensitive
can they be. And all for $16.00 too!

What's the saying? Ah, yes, "A fool and his fingers are soon separated"

On 7/7/2012 10:23 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/7/12 8:18 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/6/2012 10:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/6/12 9:27 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:
On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 22:21:00 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Fri, 06 Jul 2012 15:38:30 -0400, Greg Guarino
wrote:



One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged
novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the
piano, is
a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just
hold
down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's
clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added
benefit.

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather
gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut
wood while wearing gloves.

Then you not aware of the new-age gloves available these days.

"Class III" cut resistant gloves area amazing. Supple, I can pick up
a dime (if it's 1/8" thick with a tapered edge), but DAMN! it 's CUT
RESTISTANT.

Explore people, it's amazing waht's out there.

-Zz


He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull
your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III" gloves
are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.




No it wont. The blade will simply cut the leather and not pull it in.
Yes I did do an experiment to disprove the belief.


I believe you. I would like to see the same experiment done with these
"high tech: glove that aren't made from natural animal hide. I'm
guessing those strong strands of steel and kevlar wouldn't so forgiving.


Yeah anything made like that to resist being cut would probably be
dangerous around a saw.

On 7/7/2012 10:28 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 7/7/12 8:31 AM, JayPique wrote:
On Friday, July 6, 2012 11:03:08 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:

He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull
your hand into the blade.

That has not been my experience. A while back I was resawing on a TS
and there was a significant hollow on the blade side of the board. Due
to the extremely splintery nature of the wood I was wearing leather
gloves. About halfway through the cut the blade came out the side of the
wood and I felt a slight vibration on the tip of my middle finger. The
blade had cut through the leather and had just nicked my finger. The
blade didn't catch and slam, it cut.


I sit corrected. :-) As I mentioned in Leon's reply, I would like to see
what happens with a glove made of kevlar and steel mesh. I think a
strong woven fabric would be a different story than natural animal hide.




I could see the the steel mesh cutting your hand off if it did not cut
and got pulled in.

On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:47:12 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:





I could see the the steel mesh cutting your hand off if it did not cut
and got pulled in.

I have this vision for a horror movie. The Cheese Slicer Glove of
Death Watch as the stainless steel wires are pulled across the
fingers of prisoners in the torture chamber

On 7/7/2012 5:46 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 15:47:12 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:





I could see the the steel mesh cutting your hand off if it did not cut
and got pulled in.

I have this vision for a horror movie. The Cheese Slicer Glove of
Death Watch as the stainless steel wires are pulled across the
fingers of prisoners in the torture chamber



Yeah!

On Saturday, July 7, 2012 1:52:53 PM UTC+1, tiredofspam wrote:
Kevlar can be cut with a scissor. I used to take a scissor and use
sandpaper to serate the edges, then cut kevlar like butta...

So take that glove, stick a piece of wood in it, and find out how much
protection you really have...



I didn't have a whole lot of success cutting kevlar with our (kitchen!) scissors, so I ponied up & bought some scissors that actually mentioned kevlar cutting ability....

http://www.precisionhandtools.co.uk/...Y-Craft-kevlar

whilst not particularly cheap, they actually work extremely well.

Right tool for the job yadayada!

On 7/18/2012 11:56 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, July 7, 2012 1:52:53 PM UTC+1, tiredofspam wrote:
Kevlar can be cut with a scissor. I used to take a scissor and use
sandpaper to serate the edges, then cut kevlar like butta...

So take that glove, stick a piece of wood in it, and find out how much
protection you really have...



I didn't have a whole lot of success cutting kevlar with our (kitchen!) scissors, so I ponied up & bought some scissors that actually mentioned kevlar cutting ability....

http://www.precisionhandtools.co.uk/...Y-Craft-kevlar

whilst not particularly cheap, they actually work extremely well.

Right tool for the job yadayada!

Did you try using the sandpaper. Usually about 150 grit, you cut the
sandpaper with the scissor and it serates it.

The tooth from the sandpaper is all that is needed to cut kevlar.

My friend who ran a production shop to make model airplanes made of
carbon and kevlar showed us this trick.

I started using it, and it cuts like butter.

Those are nice scissors you purchased.

On 7/18/2012 10:56 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, July 7, 2012 1:52:53 PM UTC+1, tiredofspam wrote:
Kevlar can be cut with a scissor. I used to take a scissor and use
sandpaper to serate the edges, then cut kevlar like butta...


But were you operating those scissors at a speed in excess of 100 mph???
Kevlar was not designed so that it could not be cut, it was designed
so that is could not be torn or ripped suddenly, say in hundred
thousands of a second.








So take that glove, stick a piece of wood in it, and find out how much
protection you really have...



I didn't have a whole lot of success cutting kevlar with our (kitchen!) scissors, so I ponied up & bought some scissors that actually mentioned kevlar cutting ability....

http://www.precisionhandtools.co.uk/...Y-Craft-kevlar

whilst not particularly cheap, they actually work extremely well.

Right tool for the job yadayada!