In January, or so, I added to my "To-do list" that I needed to repair
my door that was loose enough that wind would blow it open. The latch
just wasn't long enough. In the meantime, I reinforced it from the
inside so that the door would not open at all, for security.


Now, here in May, I've observed that it works just fine. It locks solid.
T'ain't broke! %-)

One of my ideas is to put a piece of cork (sheeting) under the strike
plate, or maybe something a little more substantial. Anything I can do
that will allow me to build it up now, while still being able to close
the door ought to be a step in the right direction, I think.

Obviously, this is not a "world-beater" problem, and I have mentioned
two strategies that may help deal with it. I am just sharing it because
it has an element of *humor* to it. %-). If anyone has anything to
add, I'll listen of course.

In other news, I finished replacing the fan in my heat-pump. I inserted
the fuse and am letting the crankcase heater run for a while before I
try it out. I needed to extend/splice all of the wires from the motor.
I bought a crimper pliers, and butt spliced the wires, coated the
connections with Liquid (Black) Tape, and put shrink tubing over that.
That ought to take case of those connections, huh? I mean, you
wouldn't expect less from me, would you? ; )

Bill

On 5/18/2012 12:51 AM, Bill wrote:


In January, or so, I added to my "To-do list" that I needed to repair
my door that was loose enough that wind would blow it open. The latch
just wasn't long enough. In the meantime, I reinforced it from the
inside so that the door would not open at all, for security.


Now, here in May, I've observed that it works just fine. It locks solid.
T'ain't broke! %-)

One of my ideas is to put a piece of cork (sheeting) under the strike
plate, or maybe something a little more substantial. Anything I can do
that will allow me to build it up now, while still being able to close
the door ought to be a step in the right direction, I think.

Obviously, this is not a "world-beater" problem, and I have mentioned
two strategies that may help deal with it. I am just sharing it because
it has an element of *humor* to it. %-). If anyone has anything to add,
I'll listen of course.

In other news, I finished replacing the fan in my heat-pump. I inserted
the fuse and am letting the crankcase heater run for a while before I
try it out. I needed to extend/splice all of the wires from the motor.
I bought a crimper pliers, and butt spliced the wires, coated the
connections with Liquid (Black) Tape, and put shrink tubing over that.
That ought to take case of those connections, huh? I mean, you wouldn't
expect less from me, would you? ; )

Bill

I live east of Raleigh NC and many of the garage pedestrian doors open
out, rather than the normal into the garage. This presents a
significant security problem, as you can be into the garage with a
knife, faster that you can unlock the door.

While that is not the same as your problem, I think the solutions is the
same, a dead bolt. I installed one with a key outside and a lever
inside. I shimmed out the casing put a long screw Through the door
frame into the 2X4 Studs, and then cut the hole for the dead bolt.

Keith Nuttle writes:
On 5/18/2012 12:51 AM, Bill wrote:


In January, or so, I added to my "To-do list" that I needed to repair
my door that was loose enough that wind would blow it open. The latch
just wasn't long enough. In the meantime, I reinforced it from the
inside so that the door would not open at all, for security.


I live east of Raleigh NC and many of the garage pedestrian doors open
out, rather than the normal into the garage. This presents a
significant security problem, as you can be into the garage with a
knife, faster that you can unlock the door.

If they can pull the hinge pins, the deadbolt may not be sufficient.

To ameliorate this, place two studs (16d nails with heads cut off work)
in the hinge-side casing, leaving then extend 1 to 1.5" from the casing and drill
a corresponding hole in the door edge. This way, if the hinge pins are
pulled, the door cannot be removed from the frame unless it is already open.

Hinges are available with the studs built-in.

http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges...tud+for+Hinges

scott

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 5/18/2012 12:51 AM, Bill wrote:


In January, or so, I added to my "To-do list" that I needed to repair
my door that was loose enough that wind would blow it open. The latch
just wasn't long enough. In the meantime, I reinforced it from the
inside so that the door would not open at all, for security.


Now, here in May, I've observed that it works just fine. It locks solid.
T'ain't broke! %-)

One of my ideas is to put a piece of cork (sheeting) under the strike
plate, or maybe something a little more substantial. Anything I can do
that will allow me to build it up now, while still being able to close
the door ought to be a step in the right direction, I think.

Obviously, this is not a "world-beater" problem, and I have mentioned
two strategies that may help deal with it. I am just sharing it because
it has an element of *humor* to it. %-). If anyone has anything to add,
I'll listen of course.

In other news, I finished replacing the fan in my heat-pump. I inserted
the fuse and am letting the crankcase heater run for a while before I
try it out. I needed to extend/splice all of the wires from the motor.
I bought a crimper pliers, and butt spliced the wires, coated the
connections with Liquid (Black) Tape, and put shrink tubing over that.
That ought to take case of those connections, huh? I mean, you wouldn't
expect less from me, would you? ; )

Bill

I live east of Raleigh NC and many of the garage pedestrian doors open
out, rather than the normal into the garage. This presents a significant
security problem, as you can be into the garage with a knife, faster
that you can unlock the door.

While that is not the same as your problem, I think the solutions is the
same, a dead bolt.

Thank you very much! I think you are absolutely right. +10.

Bill


I installed one with a key outside and a lever
inside. I shimmed out the casing put a long screw Through the door frame
into the 2X4 Studs, and then cut the hole for the dead bolt.

On Fri, 18 May 2012 08:26:29 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

On 5/18/2012 12:51 AM, Bill wrote:


In January, or so, I added to my "To-do list" that I needed to repair
my door that was loose enough that wind would blow it open. The latch
just wasn't long enough. In the meantime, I reinforced it from the
inside so that the door would not open at all, for security.


Now, here in May, I've observed that it works just fine. It locks solid.
T'ain't broke! %-)

One of my ideas is to put a piece of cork (sheeting) under the strike
plate, or maybe something a little more substantial. Anything I can do
that will allow me to build it up now, while still being able to close
the door ought to be a step in the right direction, I think.

Obviously, this is not a "world-beater" problem, and I have mentioned
two strategies that may help deal with it. I am just sharing it because
it has an element of *humor* to it. %-). If anyone has anything to add,
I'll listen of course.

In other news, I finished replacing the fan in my heat-pump. I inserted
the fuse and am letting the crankcase heater run for a while before I
try it out. I needed to extend/splice all of the wires from the motor.
I bought a crimper pliers, and butt spliced the wires, coated the
connections with Liquid (Black) Tape, and put shrink tubing over that.
That ought to take case of those connections, huh? I mean, you wouldn't
expect less from me, would you? ; )

Bill

I live east of Raleigh NC and many of the garage pedestrian doors open
out, rather than the normal into the garage. This presents a
significant security problem, as you can be into the garage with a
knife, faster that you can unlock the door.

While that is not the same as your problem, I think the solutions is the
same, a dead bolt. I installed one with a key outside and a lever
inside. I shimmed out the casing put a long screw Through the door
frame into the 2X4 Studs, and then cut the hole for the dead bolt.


What kind of garage construction? Sounds like the structure may be
heaving from frost? changing the size and shape of the opening??

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 May 2012 08:26:29 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

On 5/18/2012 12:51 AM, Bill wrote:


In January, or so, I added to my "To-do list" that I needed to repair
my door that was loose enough that wind would blow it open. The latch
just wasn't long enough. In the meantime, I reinforced it from the
inside so that the door would not open at all, for security.


Now, here in May, I've observed that it works just fine. It locks solid.
T'ain't broke! %-)

One of my ideas is to put a piece of cork (sheeting) under the strike
plate, or maybe something a little more substantial. Anything I can do
that will allow me to build it up now, while still being able to close
the door ought to be a step in the right direction, I think.

Obviously, this is not a "world-beater" problem, and I have mentioned
two strategies that may help deal with it. I am just sharing it because
it has an element of *humor* to it. %-). If anyone has anything to add,
I'll listen of course.

In other news, I finished replacing the fan in my heat-pump. I inserted
the fuse and am letting the crankcase heater run for a while before I
try it out. I needed to extend/splice all of the wires from the motor.
I bought a crimper pliers, and butt spliced the wires, coated the
connections with Liquid (Black) Tape, and put shrink tubing over that.
That ought to take case of those connections, huh? I mean, you wouldn't
expect less from me, would you? ; )

Bill

I live east of Raleigh NC and many of the garage pedestrian doors open
out, rather than the normal into the garage. This presents a
significant security problem, as you can be into the garage with a
knife, faster that you can unlock the door.

While that is not the same as your problem, I think the solutions is the
same, a dead bolt. I installed one with a key outside and a lever
inside. I shimmed out the casing put a long screw Through the door
frame into the 2X4 Studs, and then cut the hole for the dead bolt.


What kind of garage construction? Sounds like the structure may be
heaving from frost? changing the size and shape of the opening??

That was my first thought too. Another possibility is the door shrinks
due to the cold (metal door?). Either way I'd check to see of the door
had the proper clearance to the jamb.
Art

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
...
Keith Nuttle writes:
On 5/18/2012 12:51 AM, Bill wrote:


In January, or so, I added to my "To-do list" that I needed to repair
my door that was loose enough that wind would blow it open. The latch
just wasn't long enough. In the meantime, I reinforced it from the
inside so that the door would not open at all, for security.


I live east of Raleigh NC and many of the garage pedestrian doors open
out, rather than the normal into the garage. This presents a
significant security problem, as you can be into the garage with a
knife, faster that you can unlock the door.

If they can pull the hinge pins, the deadbolt may not be sufficient.

To ameliorate this, place two studs (16d nails with heads cut off work)
in the hinge-side casing, leaving then extend 1 to 1.5" from the casing
and drill
a corresponding hole in the door edge. This way, if the hinge pins are
pulled, the door cannot be removed from the frame unless it is already
open.

Hinges are available with the studs built-in.

Also hinges are available with welded hinge pins --- designed for
out-opening doors, the pins cannot be removed.

wrote:
On Fri, 18 May 2012 08:26:29 -0400, Keith Nuttle
wrote:

On 5/18/2012 12:51 AM, Bill wrote:


In January, or so, I added to my "To-do list" that I needed to repair
my door that was loose enough that wind would blow it open. The latch
just wasn't long enough. In the meantime, I reinforced it from the
inside so that the door would not open at all, for security.


Now, here in May, I've observed that it works just fine. It locks solid.
T'ain't broke! %-)

One of my ideas is to put a piece of cork (sheeting) under the strike
plate, or maybe something a little more substantial. Anything I can do
that will allow me to build it up now, while still being able to close
the door ought to be a step in the right direction, I think.

Obviously, this is not a "world-beater" problem, and I have mentioned
two strategies that may help deal with it. I am just sharing it because
it has an element of *humor* to it. %-). If anyone has anything to add,
I'll listen of course.

In other news, I finished replacing the fan in my heat-pump. I inserted
the fuse and am letting the crankcase heater run for a while before I
try it out. I needed to extend/splice all of the wires from the motor.
I bought a crimper pliers, and butt spliced the wires, coated the
connections with Liquid (Black) Tape, and put shrink tubing over that.
That ought to take case of those connections, huh? I mean, you wouldn't
expect less from me, would you? ; )

Bill

I live east of Raleigh NC and many of the garage pedestrian doors open
out, rather than the normal into the garage. This presents a
significant security problem, as you can be into the garage with a
knife, faster that you can unlock the door.

While that is not the same as your problem, I think the solutions is the
same, a dead bolt. I installed one with a key outside and a lever
inside. I shimmed out the casing put a long screw Through the door
frame into the 2X4 Studs, and then cut the hole for the dead bolt.


What kind of garage construction? Sounds like the structure may be
heaving from frost? changing the size and shape of the opening??

The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit of
work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate the
process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly 6" to
the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go. To me
this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the installation.
I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill) and chisel by
hand. Is that about right?

Bill

Bill wrote:


A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door
exactly 6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt
should go. To me this suggests that no hammer should be used
throughout the installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools
(like and drill) and chisel by hand. Is that about right?


Well - I'm a firm believer in using the proper tools for the job Bill, so
I'd suggest an oxy-acetelene torch. Takes a little practice to cut a nice
round hole, but greater fun is hard to find!

Seriously - go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up the deadbolt installation
kit. It's kind of a marketing thing, but for people who do not already have
the proper size hole saws and have never installed one before, it's really
not a bad kit. It'll have the two size hole saws you need, and a template
that fits over the edge of the door to help you get the holes in the right
place. You pretty much can't screw up with it. If memory serves me
correctly, the hole saws that come in the kit are bi-metalic so they will
work on wood or metal skinned doors.

Don't worry about the glass panes. You'll be plenty clear of them with the
holes, and you won't even be needing a hammer for this job. You'll need to
chisel a relief for the striker plate, etc., but you should be able to do
that without a hammer.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door
exactly 6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt
should go. To me this suggests that no hammer should be used
throughout the installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools
(like and drill) and chisel by hand. Is that about right?


Well - I'm a firm believer in using the proper tools for the job Bill, so
I'd suggest an oxy-acetelene torch. Takes a little practice to cut a nice
round hole, but greater fun is hard to find!

Seriously - go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up the deadbolt installation
kit. It's kind of a marketing thing, but for people who do not already have
the proper size hole saws and have never installed one before, it's really
not a bad kit.

Thank you, Mike. That sounds like it will get me off to an excellent
and fast start! -Bill





It'll have the two size hole saws you need, and a template
that fits over the edge of the door to help you get the holes in the right
place. You pretty much can't screw up with it. If memory serves me
correctly, the hole saws that come in the kit are bi-metalic so they will
work on wood or metal skinned doors.

Don't worry about the glass panes. You'll be plenty clear of them with the
holes, and you won't even be needing a hammer for this job. You'll need to
chisel a relief for the striker plate, etc., but you should be able to do
that without a hammer.

Bill wrote in :


The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly
6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go.
To me this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the
installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill)
and chisel by hand. Is that about right?

Bill


Just out of curiousity, if you take the trim off on the knob side where
are the shims located at? I don't know much about installing doors, but
if there's no shims near the strike plate, I would think it possible that
the jamb moving might be the issue.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly
6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go.
To me this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the
installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill)
and chisel by hand. Is that about right?

Bill


Just out of curiousity, if you take the trim off on the knob side where
are the shims located at?

Are you saying that correcty (the latch comes out of the knob side,
right?) I don't think there are any "shims", but the alignment is
correct. I may have tried shimming the strikeplate already, in the
winter, without much success (I don't recall the details). I've already
had my nose in there more than one time! Thanks for reminding me to
check this Puck.

I was thinking, if I do install a deadbolt, I should maybe position it
out of sight of the window!

I'm off to make some sawdust!

Bill



I don't know much about installing doors, but
if there's no shims near the strike plate, I would think it possible that
the jamb moving might be the issue.

Hmm... I don't think the strike plate moves, but "shims" seem like a
separate issue. Maybe I don't understand "shims". To me a shim is a
piece of material placed underneath the strike plate to raise it.

Cheers!


Puckdropper

Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly
6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go.
To me this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the
installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill)
and chisel by hand. Is that about right?

Bill


Just out of curiousity, if you take the trim off on the knob side where
are the shims located at?

Are you saying that correcty (the latch comes out of the knob side,
right?) I don't think there are any "shims", but the alignment is
correct. I may have tried shimming the strikeplate already, in the
winter, without much success (I don't recall the details). I've already
had my nose in there more than one time! Thanks for reminding me to
check this Puck.

I was thinking, if I do install a deadbolt, I should maybe position it
out of sight of the window!


Or get a deadbolt that uses a key on inside and out.


--
G.W. Ross

I'm too smart to let my intelligence
go to my head.

G.W. Ross wrote:
Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly
6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go.
To me this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the
installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill)
and chisel by hand. Is that about right?

Bill


Just out of curiousity, if you take the trim off on the knob side where
are the shims located at?

Are you saying that correcty (the latch comes out of the knob side,
right?) I don't think there are any "shims", but the alignment is
correct. I may have tried shimming the strikeplate already, in the
winter, without much success (I don't recall the details). I've already
had my nose in there more than one time! Thanks for reminding me to
check this Puck.

I was thinking, if I do install a deadbolt, I should maybe position it
out of sight of the window!


Or get a deadbolt that uses a key on inside and out.

Ahh (Duh)! Thank you very much! -Bill

Bill wrote in :

Puckdropper wrote:

*snip&trim*

I don't know much about installing doors, but
if there's no shims near the strike plate, I would think it possible
that the jamb moving might be the issue.

Hmm... I don't think the strike plate moves, but "shims" seem like a
separate issue. Maybe I don't understand "shims". To me a shim is a
piece of material placed underneath the strike plate to raise it.

Cheers!


The shims are installed between the door frame and studs to allow the
door to be properly aligned (level and true) and to maintain that
alignment. They're hidden under the trim.

A shim can also be installed under the strike plate to raise it, but
usually when someone is talking about door shims it's the material
between door frame and studs.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :

Puckdropper wrote:

*snip&trim*

I don't know much about installing doors, but
if there's no shims near the strike plate, I would think it possible
that the jamb moving might be the issue.

Hmm... I don't think the strike plate moves, but "shims" seem like a
separate issue. Maybe I don't understand "shims". To me a shim is a
piece of material placed underneath the strike plate to raise it.

Cheers!


The shims are installed between the door frame and studs to allow the
door to be properly aligned (level and true) and to maintain that
alignment. They're hidden under the trim.

A shim can also be installed under the strike plate to raise it, but
usually when someone is talking about door shims it's the material
between door frame and studs.

Puck, Thank you for the explanation.
The trim is already off (you may recall that I'm "remodeling"),
and there are no shims. I actually tried putting things in there to
make the door stay closed in the winter. Two fingers works for instance.
However, I looked closely today, and the door fits the frame perfectly
now. It was probably hung in May, 1972. Seriously. : )

Bill



Puckdropper

Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :

Puckdropper wrote:

*snip&trim*

I don't know much about installing doors, but
if there's no shims near the strike plate, I would think it
possible that the jamb moving might be the issue.

Hmm... I don't think the strike plate moves, but "shims" seem like a
separate issue. Maybe I don't understand "shims". To me a shim is a
piece of material placed underneath the strike plate to raise it.

Cheers!


The shims are installed between the door frame and studs to allow the
door to be properly aligned (level and true) and to maintain that
alignment. They're hidden under the trim.

A shim can also be installed under the strike plate to raise it, but
usually when someone is talking about door shims it's the material
between door frame and studs.

Puck, Thank you for the explanation.
The trim is already off (you may recall that I'm "remodeling"),
and there are no shims. I actually tried putting things in there to
make the door stay closed in the winter. Two fingers works for
instance. However, I looked closely today, and the door fits the
frame perfectly now. It was probably hung in May, 1972. Seriously. :
)

No it doesn't fit the opening perfectly. That's why you are having the
seasonal problems you are having. There should have been shims in there to
keep things in place. That's what they're for. No door can fit the opening
properly without shims on the free side. So - you are correct in that it
fits perfectly now - but that's your problem. Now is different from the
winter conditions. Just need to make the winter and the summer conditions
more the same.

--

-Mike-

Bill wrote in :

Puck, Thank you for the explanation.
The trim is already off (you may recall that I'm "remodeling"),
and there are no shims. I actually tried putting things in there to
make the door stay closed in the winter. Two fingers works for
instance.
However, I looked closely today, and the door fits the frame
perfectly
now. It was probably hung in May, 1972. Seriously. : )

Bill


It sounds like your jamb is bowing outward in the winter, so you'll need
something to support the jamb and keep it from moving. Shims from the
hardware store, installed properly, should fix that problem.

I've got a basement door that does the same thing, I'm going to have to
see if my suggestion works there as well... Another thing on the todo
list.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :

Puckdropper wrote:

*snip&trim*

I don't know much about installing doors, but
if there's no shims near the strike plate, I would think it
possible that the jamb moving might be the issue.

Hmm... I don't think the strike plate moves, but "shims" seem like a
separate issue. Maybe I don't understand "shims". To me a shim is a
piece of material placed underneath the strike plate to raise it.

Cheers!


The shims are installed between the door frame and studs to allow the
door to be properly aligned (level and true) and to maintain that
alignment. They're hidden under the trim.

A shim can also be installed under the strike plate to raise it, but
usually when someone is talking about door shims it's the material
between door frame and studs.

Puck, Thank you for the explanation.
The trim is already off (you may recall that I'm "remodeling"),
and there are no shims. I actually tried putting things in there to
make the door stay closed in the winter. Two fingers works for
instance. However, I looked closely today, and the door fits the
frame perfectly now. It was probably hung in May, 1972. Seriously. :
)

No it doesn't fit the opening perfectly. That's why you are having the
seasonal problems you are having. There should have been shims in there to
keep things in place. That's what they're for. No door can fit the opening
properly without shims on the free side. So - you are correct in that it
fits perfectly now - but that's your problem. Now is different from the
winter conditions. Just need to make the winter and the summer conditions
more the same.

Mike,

From what you wrote, it sound like the shims need to go along the
entire length of the door frame, is that right? If I pushed in some
pieces of wood (shims) which pushed in the door frame about 3/32, then I
would probably be able to lock the door in the winter--and that may be
fine if I could close the door now. Thanks!

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message ...

G.W. Ross wrote:
Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly
6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go.
To me this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the
installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill)
and chisel by hand. Is that about right?

Bill


Just out of curiousity, if you take the trim off on the knob side where
are the shims located at?

Are you saying that correcty (the latch comes out of the knob side,
right?) I don't think there are any "shims", but the alignment is
correct. I may have tried shimming the strikeplate already, in the
winter, without much success (I don't recall the details). I've already
had my nose in there more than one time! Thanks for reminding me to
check this Puck.

I was thinking, if I do install a deadbolt, I should maybe position it
out of sight of the window!


Or get a deadbolt that uses a key on inside and out.

Ahh (Duh)! Thank you very much! -Bill
================================================== ==========================
It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that needed a key
to get out.

CW wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message ...

G.W. Ross wrote:

Or get a deadbolt that uses a key on inside and out.

Ahh (Duh)! Thank you very much! -Bill
================================================== ==========================

It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that needed a
key to get out.

Good point! I'll see if I might be able to shim the door as has been
suggested. It's certainly the most practical option.

Bill wrote:


From what you wrote, it sound like the shims need to go along the
entire length of the door frame, is that right? If I pushed in some
pieces of wood (shims) which pushed in the door frame about 3/32,
then I would probably be able to lock the door in the winter--and
that may be fine if I could close the door now. Thanks!


Spaced out over the entire length of the door Bill. There's a ton of you
tube videos demonstrating how to shim a door - it would be worth watching a
few, and then posting any remaining questions you have. Not that I expect
you'll have any questions...

--

-Mike-

On Sat, 19 May 2012 23:49:07 -0700, "CW" wrote:



"Bill" wrote in message ...

G.W. Ross wrote:
Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly
6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go.
To me this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the
installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill)
and chisel by hand. Is that about right?

Bill


Just out of curiousity, if you take the trim off on the knob side where
are the shims located at?

Are you saying that correcty (the latch comes out of the knob side,
right?) I don't think there are any "shims", but the alignment is
correct. I may have tried shimming the strikeplate already, in the
winter, without much success (I don't recall the details). I've already
had my nose in there more than one time! Thanks for reminding me to
check this Puck.

I was thinking, if I do install a deadbolt, I should maybe position it
out of sight of the window!


Or get a deadbolt that uses a key on inside and out.

Ahh (Duh)! Thank you very much! -Bill
================================================= ===========================
It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that needed a key
to get out.

My home in Vista, CA had all dual-keyed deadbolt locks and it caught a
burglar once. He cut himself coming over the broken window into my
room and then found that he couldn't get out any of the three doors
because they were all keyed. He didn't find any of the keys I hide by
the doors, either, so he tried to go back out the window. Someone had
called the cops by then so he was nabbed coming out of my house. In
an emergency, I (or other people) could always go out a window, but
keys were available.

I love dual-keyed deadbolts for their crimefighting demeanor. They're
perfect for those halflite doors which have the window a few inches
from the deadbolt. I had bought keyed chain locks before the dual-key
deadbolts and those kept me unburglarized a couple times, too. (no,
that's not one of the features of LoCal that I miss.)

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On Sun, 20 May 2012 03:45:08 -0400, Bill wrote:

CW wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message ...

G.W. Ross wrote:

Or get a deadbolt that uses a key on inside and out.

Ahh (Duh)! Thank you very much! -Bill
================================================== ==========================

It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that needed a
key to get out.

Good point! I'll see if I might be able to shim the door as has been
suggested. It's certainly the most practical option.

Bill, use a deck screw to go through the shims. It's micro-adjustable
for that perfect jamb alignment. Especially if your wooden door is
tempermental. If so, take it down and be sure to seal the top and
bottom. They get missed when painting or varnishing. Steel and FG
doors are much less tempermental during wide humidity swings.

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On Sat, 19 May 2012 23:57:35 -0400, Bill wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :

Puckdropper wrote:

*snip&trim*

I don't know much about installing doors, but
if there's no shims near the strike plate, I would think it
possible that the jamb moving might be the issue.

Hmm... I don't think the strike plate moves, but "shims" seem like a
separate issue. Maybe I don't understand "shims". To me a shim is a
piece of material placed underneath the strike plate to raise it.

Cheers!


The shims are installed between the door frame and studs to allow the
door to be properly aligned (level and true) and to maintain that
alignment. They're hidden under the trim.

A shim can also be installed under the strike plate to raise it, but
usually when someone is talking about door shims it's the material
between door frame and studs.

Puck, Thank you for the explanation.
The trim is already off (you may recall that I'm "remodeling"),
and there are no shims. I actually tried putting things in there to
make the door stay closed in the winter. Two fingers works for
instance. However, I looked closely today, and the door fits the
frame perfectly now. It was probably hung in May, 1972. Seriously. :
)

No it doesn't fit the opening perfectly. That's why you are having the
seasonal problems you are having. There should have been shims in there to
keep things in place. That's what they're for. No door can fit the opening
properly without shims on the free side. So - you are correct in that it
fits perfectly now - but that's your problem. Now is different from the
winter conditions. Just need to make the winter and the summer conditions
more the same.

Mike,

From what you wrote, it sound like the shims need to go along the
entire length of the door frame, is that right? If I pushed in some
pieces of wood (shims) which pushed in the door frame about 3/32, then I
would probably be able to lock the door in the winter--and that may be
fine if I could close the door now. Thanks!

Bill, this is how it's done:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLg0GnE47Oo

(I just wish I had a reference to Robin's Butt here.)






Googlit.

--
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable
one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore,
all progress depends on the unreasonable man.
-- George Bernard Shaw

On 5/20/2012 12:49 AM, CW wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message ...

G.W. Ross wrote:
Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly
6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go.
To me this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the
installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill)
and chisel by hand. Is that about right?

Bill


Just out of curiousity, if you take the trim off on the knob side where
are the shims located at?

Are you saying that correcty (the latch comes out of the knob side,
right?) I don't think there are any "shims", but the alignment is
correct. I may have tried shimming the strikeplate already, in the
winter, without much success (I don't recall the details). I've already
had my nose in there more than one time! Thanks for reminding me to
check this Puck.

I was thinking, if I do install a deadbolt, I should maybe position it
out of sight of the window!


Or get a deadbolt that uses a key on inside and out.

Ahh (Duh)! Thank you very much! -Bill
================================================== ==========================

It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that needed a
key to get out.

Are you serious? We have "french" doors to exit our den and also our
master bedroom. With that glass (in a french door) a double keyed
deadbolt was a "must". We keep the key "handy' but not accessible from
a broken pane.

On 5/20/2012 5:07 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


From what you wrote, it sound like the shims need to go along the
entire length of the door frame, is that right? If I pushed in some
pieces of wood (shims) which pushed in the door frame about 3/32,
then I would probably be able to lock the door in the winter--and
that may be fine if I could close the door now. Thanks!


Spaced out over the entire length of the door Bill. There's a ton of you
tube videos demonstrating how to shim a door - it would be worth watching a
few, and then posting any remaining questions you have. Not that I expect
you'll have any questions...


BINGO! A video will explain a whole lot.

On Sun, 20 May 2012 08:57:46 -0600, Max wrote:



It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that needed a
key to get out.

Are you serious? We have "french" doors to exit our den and also our
master bedroom. With that glass (in a french door) a double keyed
deadbolt was a "must". We keep the key "handy' but not accessible from
a broken pane.

While it makes sense, it is against code in many places. Years ago, in
my old house, someone tried to break in by the basement door by
breaking out a pane of glass. The double keyed deadbolt kept them
out.

Code or not, I have them in this house too.

On 5/20/12 11:35 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sun, 20 May 2012 08:57:46 -0600, wrote:



It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that needed a
key to get out.

Are you serious? We have "french" doors to exit our den and also our
master bedroom. With that glass (in a french door) a double keyed
deadbolt was a "must". We keep the key "handy' but not accessible from
a broken pane.

While it makes sense, it is against code in many places. Years ago, in
my old house, someone tried to break in by the basement door by
breaking out a pane of glass. The double keyed deadbolt kept them
out.

Code or not, I have them in this house too.

We have a big set of French doors (one fixed) on the back of the house.
They are both full glass panels. I don't see the purpose of a double
keyed deadbolt on full glass doors.
If someone breaks the glass to get to the deadbolt.... they can walk
right through the giant opening in the door.

This ain't like the movies where they stick a suction cup on the glass,
cut a circle in the glass, pop it out and reach in to the deadbolt. This
is safety glass, you try to cut it, it breaks into a million little
glass pebbles in a pile on the floor.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 5/20/2012 11:57 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 5/20/12 11:35 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sun, 20 May 2012 08:57:46 -0600, wrote:



It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that
needed a
key to get out.

Are you serious? We have "french" doors to exit our den and also our
master bedroom. With that glass (in a french door) a double keyed
deadbolt was a "must". We keep the key "handy' but not accessible from
a broken pane.

While it makes sense, it is against code in many places. Years ago, in
my old house, someone tried to break in by the basement door by
breaking out a pane of glass. The double keyed deadbolt kept them
out.

Code or not, I have them in this house too.

We have a big set of French doors (one fixed) on the back of the house.
They are both full glass panels. I don't see the purpose of a double
keyed deadbolt on full glass doors.
If someone breaks the glass to get to the deadbolt.... they can walk
right through the giant opening in the door.

This ain't like the movies where they stick a suction cup on the glass,
cut a circle in the glass, pop it out and reach in to the deadbolt. This
is safety glass, you try to cut it, it breaks into a million little
glass pebbles in a pile on the floor.



Ours have multiple panes. An intruder would have to break several panes
and the muntins. If I'm not there........I'm insured.
If I *am* there, by the time the intruder gained access I would have my
40 S&W ready to discourage further intrusion.
And......Texas has the Castle Doctrine.

"Max" wrote in message
b.com...

On 5/20/2012 12:49 AM, CW wrote:


"Bill" wrote in message ...

G.W. Ross wrote:
Bill wrote:
Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in :


The structure, an attached garage, is brick. I think that seasonal
changes in humidity are causing the door-width to change. The edge of
the door frame at the top is not likely to change as much due to the
direction of the wood grain.

A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door exactly
6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt should go.
To me this suggests that no hammer should be used throughout the
installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools (like and drill)
and chisel by hand. Is that about right?

Bill


Just out of curiousity, if you take the trim off on the knob side where
are the shims located at?

Are you saying that correcty (the latch comes out of the knob side,
right?) I don't think there are any "shims", but the alignment is
correct. I may have tried shimming the strikeplate already, in the
winter, without much success (I don't recall the details). I've already
had my nose in there more than one time! Thanks for reminding me to
check this Puck.

I was thinking, if I do install a deadbolt, I should maybe position it
out of sight of the window!


Or get a deadbolt that uses a key on inside and out.

Ahh (Duh)! Thank you very much! -Bill
================================================== ==========================

It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that needed a
key to get out.

Are you serious?
================================================== ============================
Yes, I am as I don't have any burglar friendly exterior doors.

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


From what you wrote, it sound like the shims need to go along the
entire length of the door frame, is that right? If I pushed in some
pieces of wood (shims) which pushed in the door frame about 3/32,
then I would probably be able to lock the door in the winter--and
that may be fine if I could close the door now. Thanks!


Spaced out over the entire length of the door Bill.


There's a ton of you
tube videos demonstrating how to shim a door - it would be worth watching a
few, and then posting any remaining questions you have. Not that I expect
you'll have any questions...

Yes, I thought of that. A brand new "area of study". I'll investigate
door-shimming technique before I ask anymore questions about it here.

On 5/20/12 2:22 PM, Max wrote:
On 5/20/2012 11:57 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 5/20/12 11:35 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sun, 20 May 2012 08:57:46 -0600, wrote:



It's up to you of course but I wouldn't have any exit door that
needed a
key to get out.

Are you serious? We have "french" doors to exit our den and also our
master bedroom. With that glass (in a french door) a double keyed
deadbolt was a "must". We keep the key "handy' but not accessible from
a broken pane.

While it makes sense, it is against code in many places. Years ago, in
my old house, someone tried to break in by the basement door by
breaking out a pane of glass. The double keyed deadbolt kept them
out.

Code or not, I have them in this house too.

We have a big set of French doors (one fixed) on the back of the house.
They are both full glass panels. I don't see the purpose of a double
keyed deadbolt on full glass doors.
If someone breaks the glass to get to the deadbolt.... they can walk
right through the giant opening in the door.

This ain't like the movies where they stick a suction cup on the glass,
cut a circle in the glass, pop it out and reach in to the deadbolt. This
is safety glass, you try to cut it, it breaks into a million little
glass pebbles in a pile on the floor.



Ours have multiple panes. An intruder would have to break several panes
and the muntins. If I'm not there........I'm insured.
If I *am* there, by the time the intruder gained access I would have my
40 S&W ready to discourage further intrusion.
And......Texas has the Castle Doctrine.


I read that... I took a tangent. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Larry Jaques wrote:

Bill, this is how it's done:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLg0GnE47Oo


Thanks Larry.

On Sun, 20 May 2012 18:38:45 -0400, Bill wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:


From what you wrote, it sound like the shims need to go along the
entire length of the door frame, is that right? If I pushed in some
pieces of wood (shims) which pushed in the door frame about 3/32,
then I would probably be able to lock the door in the winter--and
that may be fine if I could close the door now. Thanks!


Spaced out over the entire length of the door Bill.


There's a ton of you
tube videos demonstrating how to shim a door - it would be worth watching a
few, and then posting any remaining questions you have. Not that I expect
you'll have any questions...

Yes, I thought of that. A brand new "area of study". I'll investigate
door-shimming technique before I ask anymore questions about it here.

Years ago, I found the B&D building books to be of great value for
both interior and exterior projects. http://tinyurl.com/bnww54b ,
http://tinyurl.com/d2lmst3 , and http://tinyurl.com/d679zt4 . They're
chock full o' pics which show the how, words which tell the why, and
they're inexpensive. I learned, in minutes, how to do things I was
unsure of. They're inexpensive, not too terribly pedantic, and they
usually show (at least one of) the correct way(s) to do something.
Highly recommended. I've had fun with them.

Another one I got (3-4 decades ago?) was the Reader's Digest
_Fix-It-Yourself Manual_, where I learned how to repair my own
washers, dryers, and fridges. They're great old books.

--
Progress is the product of human agency. Things get better because
we make them better. Things go wrong when we get too comfortable,
when we fail to take risks or seize opportunities.
-- Susan Rice

Larry Jaques wrote:

Years ago, I found the B&D building books to be of great value for
both interior and exterior projects. http://tinyurl.com/bnww54b ,
http://tinyurl.com/d2lmst3 , and http://tinyurl.com/d679zt4 . They're
chock full o' pics which show the how, words which tell the why, and
they're inexpensive. I learned, in minutes, how to do things I was
unsure of. They're inexpensive, not too terribly pedantic, and they
usually show (at least one of) the correct way(s) to do something.
Highly recommended. I've had fun with them.

Another one I got (3-4 decades ago?) was the Reader's Digest
_Fix-It-Yourself Manual_, where I learned how to repair my own
washers, dryers, and fridges. They're great old books.

I put all 4 on my "wish list" for further consideration.
Long ago my dad said to get a book like that when I got a house someday.
I have at least one in that category. Think of the even higher relative
value such books had in the absense of the Internet.

My dad left me with the following bit of wisdom: "There's no problem so
small that you can't throw a lot of money at it."

What do people do who don't know how to do anything? Go out and drink
and have fun? : )

Bill wrote:

What do people do who don't know how to do anything? Go out and drink
and have fun? : )


I should have written: What do people do who don't know and don't want
to know how to do anything?

LOL: Personally I spend a lot of time trying to learn how people did
things that few except Rev. Roy and a few others do.

Maybe alot of the fascination is that people COULD DO things instead of
being reliant on factories. With any encouragement, I'll take and post
a picture of my British molding planes (8) someday...lol

On Sat, 19 May 2012 07:57:43 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Bill wrote:


A dead bolt will provide a nice solution, albeit one involving a bit
of work. I anticipate installing the dead bolt, and will investigate
the process further. There are glass window panes in the door
exactly 6" to the left of the edge of the door where the dead bolt
should go. To me this suggests that no hammer should be used
throughout the installation. I'm thinking smooth running power tools
(like and drill) and chisel by hand. Is that about right?


Well - I'm a firm believer in using the proper tools for the job Bill, so
I'd suggest an oxy-acetelene torch. Takes a little practice to cut a nice
round hole, but greater fun is hard to find!

Seriously - go to Home Depot or Lowes and pick up the deadbolt installation
kit. It's kind of a marketing thing, but for people who do not already have
the proper size hole saws and have never installed one before, it's really
not a bad kit. It'll have the two size hole saws you need, and a template
that fits over the edge of the door to help you get the holes in the right
place. You pretty much can't screw up with it. If memory serves me
correctly, the hole saws that come in the kit are bi-metalic so they will
work on wood or metal skinned doors.

Don't worry about the glass panes. You'll be plenty clear of them with the
holes, and you won't even be needing a hammer for this job. You'll need to
chisel a relief for the striker plate, etc., but you should be able to do
that without a hammer.
Get the router template and use the router - what most "pros" do
now.

wrote:

Get the router template and use the router - what most "pros" do
now.

I had a router template for hinges (not one for striker plates), and found
it was faster to just mortise out the hinges than it was to set up the
template and the router. Finally gave it away.

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 20 May 2012 23:13:45 -0400, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Years ago, I found the B&D building books to be of great value for
both interior and exterior projects. http://tinyurl.com/bnww54b ,
http://tinyurl.com/d2lmst3 , and http://tinyurl.com/d679zt4 . They're
chock full o' pics which show the how, words which tell the why, and
they're inexpensive. I learned, in minutes, how to do things I was
unsure of. They're inexpensive, not too terribly pedantic, and they
usually show (at least one of) the correct way(s) to do something.
Highly recommended. I've had fun with them.

Another one I got (3-4 decades ago?) was the Reader's Digest
_Fix-It-Yourself Manual_, where I learned how to repair my own
washers, dryers, and fridges. They're great old books.

I put all 4 on my "wish list" for further consideration.
Long ago my dad said to get a book like that when I got a house someday.
I have at least one in that category. Think of the even higher relative
value such books had in the absense of the Internet.

Bueno, bwana.


My dad left me with the following bit of wisdom: "There's no problem so
small that you can't throw a lot of money at it."

He wasn't a DIYer, was he?


What do people do who don't know how to do anything? Go out and drink
and have fun? : )

They call Larry, the Home and Garden Handyman, to do it for them.
Oh, and they get fitshaced, too.

--
Progress is the product of human agency. Things get better because
we make them better. Things go wrong when we get too comfortable,
when we fail to take risks or seize opportunities.
-- Susan Rice