Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping.
Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.

I may get a fancier one some day, but for 60 bucks, I couldn't resist.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 13:36:04 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping. Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.


I've had one for several years now - got it as soon as they came out.
I'm quite happy with it. I added my own fence and flip stop.


--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Don't waste your money. The 1000SE or 1000HD are better choices.


On 3/28/2012 2:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping.
Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.

I may get a fancier one some day, but for 60 bucks, I couldn't resist.

On 3/28/2012 1:36 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping.
Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.

I may get a fancier one some day, but for 60 bucks, I couldn't resist.


I bought this a few months ago. Added an 18" bar with t slots top and
front for hold downs. I also had the Delta and this is a vast
improvement at a reasonable cost.

Larry

On 3/28/12 4:45 PM, tiredofspam wrote:
Don't waste your money. The 1000SE or 1000HD are better choices.


It's hardly a waste of money.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 17:45:59 -0400, tiredofspam wrote:

Don't waste your money. The 1000SE or 1000HD are better choices.

Let's see. The 1000SE has stops every 5 degrees, the V120 has every
degree. The 1000SE does have a 180 degree range where the V120 only has
a 120 degree range, But past +/-60 degrees you're almost ripping. The
1000SE does come with a fancy fence, but adding a fence to the V120 is
trivial.

The 1000HD is indeed nice. It combines the 1 degree steps of the V120
with the 180 degree range and fancy fence of the 1000SE. But the price
is in the $150-$190 range and I still question the utility of setting
past 60 degrees.

My conclusion - the V120 is still the best bang for the buck.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

I didn't realize that the stops were every degree.
I only paid $110 for my SE when Woodcraft had it on sale.
As far as only every 5, the vernier scale allows adjustment down to .1
degrees on the SE. So I agree the V120 maybe a good buy, but I think
the fence and stop made the $110 a great buy.

On 3/29/2012 12:09 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 17:45:59 -0400, tiredofspam wrote:

Don't waste your money. The 1000SE or 1000HD are better choices.

Let's see. The 1000SE has stops every 5 degrees, the V120 has every
degree. The 1000SE does have a 180 degree range where the V120 only has
a 120 degree range, But past +/-60 degrees you're almost ripping. The
1000SE does come with a fancy fence, but adding a fence to the V120 is
trivial.

The 1000HD is indeed nice. It combines the 1 degree steps of the V120
with the 180 degree range and fancy fence of the 1000SE. But the price
is in the $150-$190 range and I still question the utility of setting
past 60 degrees.

My conclusion - the V120 is still the best bang for the buck.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message ...

On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 17:45:59 -0400, tiredofspam wrote:

Don't waste your money. The 1000SE or 1000HD are better choices.

Let's see. The 1000SE has stops every 5 degrees, the V120 has every
degree. The 1000SE does have a 180 degree range where the V120 only has
a 120 degree range, But past +/-60 degrees you're almost ripping. The
1000SE does come with a fancy fence, but adding a fence to the V120 is
trivial.

The 1000HD is indeed nice. It combines the 1 degree steps of the V120
with the 180 degree range and fancy fence of the 1000SE. But the price
is in the $150-$190 range and I still question the utility of setting
past 60 degrees.

My conclusion - the V120 is still the best bang for the buck.
================================================== ========
That's what I thought when I bought mine several years ago. Rather make my
own fence anyway. No regrets.

On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 12:36:04 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ):

Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping.
Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.

I may get a fancier one some day, but for 60 bucks, I couldn't resist.




I have the 1000 and really like its utility. Does the V120 have a stop at
22.5 degrees? (I use this a lot).

My only dislike is the miter bar. It has plastic bushings that allow it to be
snugged up in the miter slot. While good in concept, the bushings wear down
and there are only three of them. When the back bushing exits the slot (like
when crosscutting a wide board), the gauge will shift to the side slightly. I
seem to recall a while back a discussion on miter slot widths from various
manufactures. My Unisaw (2000? anniversary edition) has a slot slightly wider
than the 3/4" 'norm'. I think others like Jet and Craftman are right at 3/4".
Due to this variance, Incra makes the bar 3/4" and adds the bushings to get a
tighter fit in the Deltas. I'd rather see a choice of bars so I could get a
tight fit without the bushings. I'm tempted to either replace the bar which
would require some work to reattach the vernier, etc. or try drilling the
side of the bar and install a number of set screws that could be adjusted and
then locked down with locktite.


-BR

Maybe you need to sand the walls of your miter slot to smooth them out.
See if the slot has machine marks that are wearing the bushings.
If so, then use some wet dry with oil on a block and sand back and forth
moving from 320 to 600.
Then wax the slots walls.

As for the miter bar I like it. I don't see a shift. And its nice and snug.

On 3/31/2012 9:42 AM, Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 12:36:04 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in ):

Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping.
Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.

I may get a fancier one some day, but for 60 bucks, I couldn't resist.




I have the 1000 and really like its utility. Does the V120 have a stop at
22.5 degrees? (I use this a lot).

My only dislike is the miter bar. It has plastic bushings that allow it to be
snugged up in the miter slot. While good in concept, the bushings wear down
and there are only three of them. When the back bushing exits the slot (like
when crosscutting a wide board), the gauge will shift to the side slightly. I
seem to recall a while back a discussion on miter slot widths from various
manufactures. My Unisaw (2000? anniversary edition) has a slot slightly wider
than the 3/4" 'norm'. I think others like Jet and Craftman are right at 3/4".
Due to this variance, Incra makes the bar 3/4" and adds the bushings to get a
tighter fit in the Deltas. I'd rather see a choice of bars so I could get a
tight fit without the bushings. I'm tempted to either replace the bar which
would require some work to reattach the vernier, etc. or try drilling the
side of the bar and install a number of set screws that could be adjusted and
then locked down with locktite.


-BR

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 07:42:35 -0600, Bruce wrote:

I have the 1000 and really like its utility. Does the V120 have a stop
at 22.5 degrees? (I use this a lot).

Yes it does. Either the 22 or the 23 is missing to make room for the
22.5.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Bruce" wrote in message ...

On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 12:36:04 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ):

Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping.
Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.

I may get a fancier one some day, but for 60 bucks, I couldn't resist.




I have the 1000 and really like its utility. Does the V120 have a stop at
22.5 degrees? (I use this a lot).

My only dislike is the miter bar. It has plastic bushings that allow it to
be
snugged up in the miter slot. While good in concept, the bushings wear down
and there are only three of them. When the back bushing exits the slot (like
when crosscutting a wide board), the gauge will shift to the side slightly.
I
seem to recall a while back a discussion on miter slot widths from various
manufactures. My Unisaw (2000? anniversary edition) has a slot slightly
wider
than the 3/4" 'norm'. I think others like Jet and Craftman are right at
3/4".
Due to this variance, Incra makes the bar 3/4" and adds the bushings to get
a
tighter fit in the Deltas. I'd rather see a choice of bars so I could get a
tight fit without the bushings. I'm tempted to either replace the bar which
would require some work to reattach the vernier, etc. or try drilling the
side of the bar and install a number of set screws that could be adjusted
and
then locked down with locktite.
================================================== =================
It's up to you of course but I wouldn't do the setscrew idea. Setscrews are
much harder than cast iron. They would wear a groove in the slot in no time.

On 3/31/12 8:42 AM, Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 12:36:04 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in ):

Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping.
Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.

I may get a fancier one some day, but for 60 bucks, I couldn't resist.




I have the 1000 and really like its utility. Does the V120 have a stop at
22.5 degrees? (I use this a lot).

My only dislike is the miter bar. It has plastic bushings that allow it to be
snugged up in the miter slot. While good in concept, the bushings wear down
and there are only three of them. When the back bushing exits the slot (like
when crosscutting a wide board), the gauge will shift to the side slightly. I
seem to recall a while back a discussion on miter slot widths from various
manufactures. My Unisaw (2000? anniversary edition) has a slot slightly wider
than the 3/4" 'norm'. I think others like Jet and Craftman are right at 3/4".
Due to this variance, Incra makes the bar 3/4" and adds the bushings to get a
tighter fit in the Deltas. I'd rather see a choice of bars so I could get a
tight fit without the bushings. I'm tempted to either replace the bar which
would require some work to reattach the vernier, etc. or try drilling the
side of the bar and install a number of set screws that could be adjusted and
then locked down with locktite.


-BR


It does have the 22.5 stops. As for wide crosscuts, I have a great sled
that I use for wide boards for square cuts and a radial arm saw.
I found myself using the Delta stock miter gauge for a lot of angled
cuts for which I would normally use the chop saw, but am hesitant to do
so due to its inaccuracy. I'm hoping this dispels my hesitation to go
straight to the table saw for miters.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 09:29:00 -0600, tiredofspam wrote
(in article ):

Maybe you need to sand the walls of your miter slot to smooth them out.
See if the slot has machine marks that are wearing the bushings.
If so, then use some wet dry with oil on a block and sand back and forth
moving from 320 to 600.
Then wax the slots walls.

As for the miter bar I like it. I don't see a shift. And its nice and snug.

Been there, done that. The bushings can be rotated so I doubt I'll ever run
out of useable surface, but something more durable and easier to adjust would
make this the perfect miter bar in my opinion.

-BR


On 3/31/2012 9:42 AM, Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 28 Mar 2012 12:36:04 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in ):

Rockler has these for 59.99 w/ free shipping.
Incra® Miter V120 Gauge
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21444

All the reviews I've read are very positive. This will replace my stock
Delta with is about as accurate as bird-shot for a sniper.

I may get a fancier one some day, but for 60 bucks, I couldn't resist.




I have the 1000 and really like its utility. Does the V120 have a stop at
22.5 degrees? (I use this a lot).

My only dislike is the miter bar. It has plastic bushings that allow it to
be
snugged up in the miter slot. While good in concept, the bushings wear down
and there are only three of them. When the back bushing exits the slot (like
when crosscutting a wide board), the gauge will shift to the side slightly.
I
seem to recall a while back a discussion on miter slot widths from various
manufactures. My Unisaw (2000? anniversary edition) has a slot slightly
wider
than the 3/4" 'norm'. I think others like Jet and Craftman are right at
3/4".
Due to this variance, Incra makes the bar 3/4" and adds the bushings to get
a
tighter fit in the Deltas. I'd rather see a choice of bars so I could get a
tight fit without the bushings. I'm tempted to either replace the bar which
would require some work to reattach the vernier, etc. or try drilling the
side of the bar and install a number of set screws that could be adjusted
and
then locked down with locktite.


-BR

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 12:57:43 -0600, CW wrote
(in article ):


================================================== =================
It's up to you of course but I wouldn't do the setscrew idea. Setscrews are
much harder than cast iron. They would wear a groove in the slot in no time.



I should have elaborated a bit here. The set screws I'm considering have the
ball-bearing tips. I'd drill a through hole, thread it, then screw the set
screw all the way through until the ball end protrudes enough to clear out
the slop. The ball rests on a small spring inside the screw so there is some
'give'. Weather the spring might be too weak is something I'll have to check
out.

-BR

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 13:52:56 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ):

It does have the 22.5 stops. As for wide crosscuts, I have a great sled
that I use for wide boards for square cuts and a radial arm saw.
I found myself using the Delta stock miter gauge for a lot of angled
cuts for which I would normally use the chop saw, but am hesitant to do
so due to its inaccuracy. I'm hoping this dispels my hesitation to go
straight to the table saw for miters.





I make octagon frames and the 22.5 of course is key.
My stock delta miter fits the slot perfectly and I'm thinking about hijacking
that bar (if only it was 2" longer...).

My sled gets a workout, but it's only 90 deg. The miter gauge is light weight
and fast to adjust, that's why I like it over any custom sleds.
-BR

In article , says...

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 12:57:43 -0600, CW wrote
(in article ):


================================================== =================
It's up to you of course but I wouldn't do the setscrew idea. Setscrews are
much harder than cast iron. They would wear a groove in the slot in no time.



I should have elaborated a bit here. The set screws I'm considering have the
ball-bearing tips. I'd drill a through hole, thread it, then screw the set
screw all the way through until the ball end protrudes enough to clear out
the slop. The ball rests on a small spring inside the screw so there is some
'give'. Weather the spring might be too weak is something I'll have to check
out.

-BR

You could use nylon set screws.

"Bruce" wrote in message ...

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 12:57:43 -0600, CW wrote
(in article ):


================================================== =================
It's up to you of course but I wouldn't do the setscrew idea. Setscrews
are
much harder than cast iron. They would wear a groove in the slot in no
time.



I should have elaborated a bit here. The set screws I'm considering have the
ball-bearing tips. I'd drill a through hole, thread it, then screw the set
screw all the way through until the ball end protrudes enough to clear out
the slop. The ball rests on a small spring inside the screw so there is some
'give'. Weather the spring might be too weak is something I'll have to check
out.
================================================== ==========================
Known in the (toolmaker) trade as a ball plungers. Available with steel or
delrin ball. Delrin would be my choice. Should work fine.

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 15:07:10 -0600, Bruce wrote:

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 13:52:56 -0600, MIKE- wrote
(in article ):

It does have the 22.5 stops. As for wide crosscuts, I have a great sled
that I use for wide boards for square cuts and a radial arm saw.
I found myself using the Delta stock miter gauge for a lot of angled
cuts for which I would normally use the chop saw, but am hesitant to do
so due to its inaccuracy. I'm hoping this dispels my hesitation to go
straight to the table saw for miters.





I make octagon frames and the 22.5 of course is key.
My stock delta miter fits the slot perfectly and I'm thinking about hijacking
that bar (if only it was 2" longer...).

My sled gets a workout, but it's only 90 deg. The miter gauge is light weight
and fast to adjust, that's why I like it over any custom sleds.
-BR
Why not make a sub fence that will work with your sled AND give you
the 22.5 that you need?

Just a thought.

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 15:14:27 -0600, J. Clarke wrote
(in article ocal):

In article , says...

On Sat, 31 Mar 2012 12:57:43 -0600, CW wrote
(in article ):


================================================== =================
It's up to you of course but I wouldn't do the setscrew idea. Setscrews
are
much harder than cast iron. They would wear a groove in the slot in no
time.



I should have elaborated a bit here. The set screws I'm considering have
the
ball-bearing tips. I'd drill a through hole, thread it, then screw the set
screw all the way through until the ball end protrudes enough to clear out
the slop. The ball rests on a small spring inside the screw so there is
some
'give'. Weather the spring might be too weak is something I'll have to
check
out.

-BR

You could use nylon set screws.

Yes, nylon or delrin would also work. The factory bushings are probably
nylon, but a half dozen set screws should do the trick...
-BR

On Sun, 1 Apr 2012 08:31:39 -0600, Mike--the other one wrote
(in article ):




I make octagon frames and the 22.5 of course is key.
My stock delta miter fits the slot perfectly and I'm thinking about
hijacking
that bar (if only it was 2" longer...).

My sled gets a workout, but it's only 90 deg. The miter gauge is light
weight
and fast to adjust, that's why I like it over any custom sleds.
-BR
Why not make a sub fence that will work with your sled AND give you
the 22.5 that you need?


I'd still need the miter gauge for gobs of other uses. Tight is right!
-BR


Just a thought.