Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

I think you mean the corner pieces. Two methods I can think of.

1. Laminate thin pieces over a mold. Too hard, I wouldn't do it.

2. Build up a block thick enough to cut out on the bandsaw. It doesn't
need to be a square of the whole corner. Picture looking down frm the
top. You need a piece thick enough to cross the corner at 45 degrees.
You can laminate a few pieces and only one piece needs to be thick
enough to cover the whoile outside face (if that makes sense. Draw it
out on end and cut it on the bandsaw. Clean up the shape with sanders.
If you don't have a band saw you can slice of segments (chords) using
a TS or other tool. Then smooth with planes, sanders, draw knives, etc.

On Jan 26, 2:58*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
*Any ideas on how best to make

this feature?

Thanks!

I think you mean the corner pieces. Two methods I can think of.

1. Laminate thin pieces over a mold. Too hard, I wouldn't do it.

2. Build up a block thick enough to cut out on the bandsaw. It doesn't
need to be a square of the whole corner. Picture looking down frm the
top. You need a piece thick enough to cross the corner at 45 degrees.
You can laminate a few pieces and only one piece needs to be thick
enough to cover the whoile outside face (if that makes sense. Draw it
out on end and cut it on the bandsaw. Clean up the shape with sanders.
If you don't have a band saw you can slice of segments (chords) using
a TS or other tool. Then smooth with planes, sanders, draw knives, etc.

Thanks! That seems like a good approach.

What about the side pieces? How would one get the "bowed" shape along
the whole length of the board?

On 1/26/2012 11:38 AM, Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

The second picture says "Corners milled out of s single piece of wood.
A feature found only on a Hudson shuffleboard". It is also apparent
in that picture that the curved corners are separate pieces of wood
from the remainder of the horse collar. To me, this implies that the
corner curve is cut to shape using a band saw from a block of wood.

Note: You get a better view of the images by clicking of the images
on the first page and then clicking on the image again on the window
that opens from the first.

From that picture and the next, I think that the rounded top edge is
part of the side and corner pieces rather than a separate piece of trim.


Dan

Kevin wrote:
On Jan 26, 2:58 pm, wrote:
Any ideas on how best to make

this feature?

Thanks!

I think you mean the corner pieces. Two methods I can think of.

1. Laminate thin pieces over a mold. Too hard, I wouldn't do it.

2. Build up a block thick enough to cut out on the bandsaw. It doesn't
need to be a square of the whole corner. Picture looking down frm the
top. You need a piece thick enough to cross the corner at 45 degrees.
You can laminate a few pieces and only one piece needs to be thick
enough to cover the whoile outside face (if that makes sense. Draw it
out on end and cut it on the bandsaw. Clean up the shape with sanders.
If you don't have a band saw you can slice of segments (chords) using
a TS or other tool. Then smooth with planes, sanders, draw knives, etc.

Thanks! That seems like a good approach.

What about the side pieces? How would one get the "bowed" shape along
the whole length of the board?

Looks more like a curved taper than a bow. You could tack or tape a
thin strip behind the bottom edge and make a straight taper using a
power planer, then round off with hand plane. Cut a template of the
curve to check progress.

--
Gerald Ross

I don't make jokes. I just watch the
government and report the facts.
--Will Rogers

On 1/26/12 1:58 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
2. Build up a block thick enough to cut out on the bandsaw.

From the looks of the grain in the pics, that's what they did.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.
http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

That's a spectacular shuffleboard. A REALl project. I wish you luck on
it. Please keep us updated. Can't wait to see how yours comes out!

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!
Kevin

Thanks! That seems like a good approach.

What about the side pieces? How would one get the "bowed" shape along
the whole length of the board?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would probably use the table saw to slice off segments. Make a
fixture so I can precisely move it in 5 degree increments or
something. Then smooth it with planes and sanders. Or if you are
adventerous you could do the whole thing with a hand plane(s).

One trick when doing this is either way is to draw the finished shape
you on the end of piece. You would be surprised how well you can
approximate that shape by cutting to it with succesive passes.

Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

As others have said, band saw. You could also do it with a router, jig
needed. You could also do it by hand...

1. plane or grind to rough shape

2. clean up/fine shape with rasp

3. sand

Not hard, done it numerous times. Mostly for hand rails for a sailboat.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 1/27/2012 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

As others have said, band saw. You could also do it with a router, jig
needed. You could also do it by hand...

1. plane or grind to rough shape

2. clean up/fine shape with rasp

3. sand

Not hard, done it numerous times. Mostly for hand rails for a sailboat.

I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round over_
(for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the _sides_ and
curved corners of the "horse collar".

To do this repeatedly and accurately around six sides and, even harder,
around the eight curved corners, and without a jig and/or some special
machinery, appears to be a daunting task that takes a lot more thought
doing it in a small shop than just the ninety degree corners.

AFAICT, no one has addressed this yet. Nifty problem for a problem
solver using small shop hand and power tools.

I've got some hazy notions at this point, but they are so unsettled it
hurts my mind to think about them.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 1/27/2012 8:13 AM, Swingman wrote:

To do this repeatedly and accurately around six sides and, even harder,
around the eight curved corners

Sorry, _four_ curved corners ... told you it hurt my mind to think about it.


--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round over_
(for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the _sides_ *and
curved corners of the "horse collar".


Yes, exactly. That is the part I cannot figure out!

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

As others have said, band saw. You could also do it with a router, jig
needed. You could also do it by hand...

1. plane or grind to rough shape

2. clean up/fine shape with rasp

3. sand

Not hard, done it numerous times. Mostly for hand rails for a sailboat.

I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round over_
(for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the _sides_ and
curved corners of the "horse collar".

To do this repeatedly and accurately around six sides and, even harder,
around the eight curved corners, and without a jig and/or some special
machinery, appears to be a daunting task that takes a lot more thought
doing it in a small shop than just the ninety degree corners.

AFAICT, no one has addressed this yet. Nifty problem for a problem
solver using small shop hand and power tools.

I've got some hazy notions at this point, but they are so unsettled it
hurts my mind to think about them.

I did address it in my previous post. I tested the theory on my
handy-dandy Ridgid 13 inch planer. I did it in 3 steps, but got a
barely perceptible curve. I think the first pass should have taken off
more and the last two should have been raised more, especially the
last pass.

I used a 24 inch board and cut three strips of door skin and glued
them to the back of the board using 3 dabs of hot melt glue. Clamped
for a couple of minutes and ran it through the planer with the
attached strip on bottom. Repeated, adding another strip each time.

The theory works, but it needs more adjustment of the heights and
amounts removed. If all four boards were done the same way, in
sequence, It would look pretty good.

See pictures in ABPW.

--
Gerald Ross

George Orwell was an optimist.

On 1/27/2012 1:48 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

As others have said, band saw. You could also do it with a router, jig
needed. You could also do it by hand...

1. plane or grind to rough shape

2. clean up/fine shape with rasp

3. sand

Not hard, done it numerous times. Mostly for hand rails for a sailboat.

I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round over_
(for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the _sides_ and
curved corners of the "horse collar".

To do this repeatedly and accurately around six sides and, even harder,
around the eight curved corners, and without a jig and/or some special
machinery, appears to be a daunting task that takes a lot more thought
doing it in a small shop than just the ninety degree corners.

AFAICT, no one has addressed this yet. Nifty problem for a problem
solver using small shop hand and power tools.

I've got some hazy notions at this point, but they are so unsettled it
hurts my mind to think about them.

I did address it in my previous post. I tested the theory on my
handy-dandy Ridgid 13 inch planer. I did it in 3 steps, but got a barely
perceptible curve. I think the first pass should have taken off more and
the last two should have been raised more, especially the last pass.

I used a 24 inch board and cut three strips of door skin and glued them
to the back of the board using 3 dabs of hot melt glue. Clamped for a
couple of minutes and ran it through the planer with the attached strip
on bottom. Repeated, adding another strip each time.

The theory works, but it needs more adjustment of the heights and
amounts removed. If all four boards were done the same way, in sequence,
It would look pretty good.

See pictures in ABPW.

That's cool, and along the lines of what I was thinking, except doing
the bevel on table saw and using a plane, or pattern maker's rasp, to
round off the crown.

All fine and good, but only half the job ... now, how are going to do
the same thing, and match it precisely, on the curved, 90 degree corner
turnarounds?

_That's_ the part I'm still scratching my head on.


--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Kevin wrote:
I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round
over_ (for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the
_sides_ and curved corners of the "horse collar".


Yes, exactly. That is the part I cannot figure out!

Same answer. It really isn't hard to do it by hand; it is unlikely you'll
get the curve identical piece to piece - or even on the same piece - but it
isn't hard to get it so it LOOKS the same. If you are really fussy, one
could get it close then make a template from a piece of sheet metal and
scrape away.

))))))))))))

As others have said, band saw. You could also do it with a router, jig
needed. You could also do it by hand...

1. plane or grind to rough shape

2. clean up/fine shape with rasp

3. sand

Not hard, done it numerous times. Mostly for hand rails for a sailboat.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 1:48 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would
like to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse
collar" ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you
eventually will see a close up and can see that it is capped with
a rounded bit of trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not
sure how to make is the side piece which is also curved. Any
ideas on how best to make this feature?

Thanks!

As others have said, band saw. You could also do it with a router,
jig needed. You could also do it by hand...

1. plane or grind to rough shape

2. clean up/fine shape with rasp

3. sand

Not hard, done it numerous times. Mostly for hand rails for a
sailboat.

I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round
over_ (for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the
_sides_ and curved corners of the "horse collar".

To do this repeatedly and accurately around six sides and, even
harder, around the eight curved corners, and without a jig and/or
some special machinery, appears to be a daunting task that takes a
lot more thought doing it in a small shop than just the ninety
degree corners. AFAICT, no one has addressed this yet. Nifty problem for
a problem
solver using small shop hand and power tools.

I've got some hazy notions at this point, but they are so unsettled
it hurts my mind to think about them.

I did address it in my previous post. I tested the theory on my
handy-dandy Ridgid 13 inch planer. I did it in 3 steps, but got a
barely perceptible curve. I think the first pass should have taken
off more and the last two should have been raised more, especially
the last pass. I used a 24 inch board and cut three strips of door skin
and glued
them to the back of the board using 3 dabs of hot melt glue. Clamped
for a couple of minutes and ran it through the planer with the
attached strip on bottom. Repeated, adding another strip each time.

The theory works, but it needs more adjustment of the heights and
amounts removed. If all four boards were done the same way, in
sequence, It would look pretty good.

See pictures in ABPW.

That's cool, and along the lines of what I was thinking, except doing
the bevel on table saw and using a plane, or pattern maker's rasp, to
round off the crown.

All fine and good, but only half the job ... now, how are going to do
the same thing, and match it precisely, on the curved, 90 degree
corner turnarounds?

_That's_ the part I'm still scratching my head on.

By hand, man, by hand. Join the corner blocks to the shaped ends and sides
and go at it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 1/27/2012 2:48 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Swingman wrote:


All fine and good, but only half the job ... now, how are going to do
the same thing, and match it precisely, on the curved, 90 degree
corner turnarounds?

_That's_ the part I'm still scratching my head on.

By hand, man, by hand. Join the corner blocks to the shaped ends and sides
and go at it.


Easy to type ... and a helluva lot more difficult to get acceptable
results from a "by hand" task of that precision, let alone a result that
_looks_ like as precise as the pictures the OP is wanting to duplicate
.... which even you admitted yourself.

A master craftsman, with tools, plenty of experience, and ample time to
do it by hand? yeah ... but someone asking the question in a newsgroup?

Not any time soon ...

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 1/27/2012 2:46 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Kevin wrote:
I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round
over_ (for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the
_sides_ and curved corners of the "horse collar".


Yes, exactly. That is the part I cannot figure out!

Same answer. It really isn't hard to do it by hand;

There's your answer right there, Kevin. Hire dadiOH to put his skills
where his mouth is.



--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 2:48 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Swingman wrote:


All fine and good, but only half the job ... now, how are going to do
the same thing, and match it precisely, on the curved, 90 degree
corner turnarounds?

_That's_ the part I'm still scratching my head on.

By hand, man, by hand. Join the corner blocks to the shaped ends and
sides
and go at it.


Easy to type ... and a helluva lot more difficult to get acceptable
results from a "by hand" task of that precision, let alone a result that
_looks_ like as precise as the pictures the OP is wanting to duplicate
... which even you admitted yourself.

A master craftsman, with tools, plenty of experience, and ample time to
do it by hand? yeah ... but someone asking the question in a newsgroup?

Not any time soon ...


Depends on how much he likes Shuffleboard! ; )

On 1/27/2012 6:06 PM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:

A master craftsman, with tools, plenty of experience, and ample time to
do it by hand? yeah ... but someone asking the question in a newsgroup?

Not any time soon ...


Depends on how much he likes Shuffleboard! ; )

I'd love to see how David J Marks, or Tom Plaman when he was still in
the business, would approach the round over on the curved corner.

The inside radius of the corner pieces is a piece o cake; the outside
radius brings it to another level, obviously not impossible, but
certainly challenging in a small shop environment to get it done with a
consistent precision to match the factory version.

Personally, and if I were going to do it, I wouldn't want to settle for
anything less than that precision ... hell, you can hack it out with a
chainsaw if you don't give a ****.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Some hove mentioned using a router to get the outside curve. To
explain a little more, this would require you build a base for your
router that slide over a complementarily curved "bridge" over the
short dimension of the rail. Then the bridge would ride on rails that
are secured to the two long sides of the workpiece. Then you just walk
your way down the work piece moving the router back and forth across
the bride as you move the bride down the rails.

Prepare for a LOT of dust.

I think FWW has something similar recently for flattening large
panels.

Mitch

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 6:06 PM, Bill wrote:
Swingman wrote:

A master craftsman, with tools, plenty of experience, and ample time to
do it by hand? yeah ... but someone asking the question in a newsgroup?

Not any time soon ...


Depends on how much he likes Shuffleboard! ; )

I'd love to see how David J Marks, or Tom Plaman when he was still in
the business, would approach the round over on the curved corner.

The inside radius of the corner pieces is a piece o cake; the outside
radius brings it to another level, obviously not impossible, but
certainly challenging in a small shop environment to get it done with a
consistent precision to match the factory version.

Personally, and if I were going to do it, I wouldn't want to settle for
anything less than that precision ... hell, you can hack it out with a
chainsaw if you don't give a ****.


How about a technique based on turning? Quarter the result for your 4
corners? Too big? I saw your office glueup, you could do it! : )

On 1/26/2012 1:38 PM, Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Here's a clue for your:

CRADLE: The ends of the cradle, commonly referred to as the "Horse
Collar", are made the old fashioned way, steamed and bent into shape for
maximum strength and finished off with a layer of beautifully polished
mahogany.

http://www.shuffleboardfederation.co...-table-22.html

So this is one of those that the curved ends are not made from a "single
block of wood", and doesn't have the same degree of vertical
roundover/curve as the picture of the one you posted, but it is
certainly much more doable with many of the methods already described.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

"Kevin" wrote in message
...
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

I'd do the corner by rough cutting it on a bandsaw and then use a pattern
with either a router table with a long straight bit, or a shaper with a tall
straight cutter to shape the inside and outside of the curve. You can get an
idea of how here --
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/23640756...-With-a-Shaper

You could use a secondary wood like pine or poplar for the sides of the
corner and then veneer it. The top could be done on a shaper with a pattern
or on a molding machine with a curved molding set up.

From looking at the top edges a stair tread shaper cutter could be used for
both the straight and curved sections on a shaper or a similar cutter on a
molding machine.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shap...3-4-Bore/C2129
http://www.woodmastertools.com/NS/ac...il.cfm?PID=771

John

On Fri, 27 Jan 2012 19:06:03 -0500, Bill wrote:

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 2:48 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Swingman wrote:


All fine and good, but only half the job ... now, how are going to do
the same thing, and match it precisely, on the curved, 90 degree
corner turnarounds?

_That's_ the part I'm still scratching my head on.

By hand, man, by hand. Join the corner blocks to the shaped ends and
sides
and go at it.


Easy to type ... and a helluva lot more difficult to get acceptable
results from a "by hand" task of that precision, let alone a result that
_looks_ like as precise as the pictures the OP is wanting to duplicate
... which even you admitted yourself.

A master craftsman, with tools, plenty of experience, and ample time to
do it by hand? yeah ... but someone asking the question in a newsgroup?

Not any time soon ...

Depends on how much he likes Shuffleboard! ; )

And, as everyone knows well, anyone who likes shuffleboard has all the
time in the world to work on it. Old retired farts, wot?

--
Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act,
the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything.
-- George Lois

On 1/27/2012 7:57 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

I'd do the corner by rough cutting it on a bandsaw and then use a
pattern with either a router table with a long straight bit, or a shaper
with a tall straight cutter to shape the inside and outside of the
curve. You can get an idea of how here --
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/23640756...-With-a-Shaper

You could use a secondary wood like pine or poplar for the sides of the
corner and then veneer it. The top could be done on a shaper with a
pattern or on a molding machine with a curved molding set up.

From looking at the top edges a stair tread shaper cutter could be used
for both the straight and curved sections on a shaper or a similar
cutter on a molding machine.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shap...3-4-Bore/C2129

http://www.woodmastertools.com/NS/ac...il.cfm?PID=771

Being much less radical of a curved profile for the sides than on the
original photo Kevin provided, the profile below would fit right in with
your above, and also with dadiOH's suggested method.

The bevels for the sides can be cut on the table saw @ +/- 75 degrees,
then using 1/2" round over bit for the top and bottom,and the bevel cut
waste faired with a sander/belt sander:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...27937832624034

The curved corners just needs 2 1/4" x 7" stock; joined to the sides
_before_ using the 1/2" round over bit (route the top and bottom of the
sides and corners at the same time after they're joined for a good
transition), and the curve on the outside radius of the corner blocks
could probably be faired relatively easy with a sander to match, a la
dadiOH'suggestion.

--
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Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 1/27/2012 10:19 PM, Swingman wrote:

The curved corners just needs 2 1/4" x 7" stock; joined to the sides
_before_ using the 1/2" round over bit (route the top and bottom of the
sides and corners at the same time after they're joined for a good
transition), and the curve on the outside radius of the corner blocks
could probably be faired relatively easy with a sander to match, a la
dadiOH'suggestion.


Meant to add, before joining the corner blocks and sides for either the
1/2" round over/stair tread bit, that the same 75 degree bevel can be
cut on the top and bottom outside radius of the corner block on a band
saw, with either the table angled, or a jig that will hold the corner
block at the same angle.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Jan 27, 11:19*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 7:57 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:









I'd do the corner by rough cutting it on a bandsaw and then use a
pattern with either a router table with a long straight bit, or a shaper
with a tall straight cutter to shape the inside and outside of the
curve. You can get an idea of how here --
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/23640756...-Best--With-a-...

You could use a secondary wood like pine or poplar for the sides of the
corner and then veneer it. The top could be done on a shaper with a
pattern or on a molding machine with a curved molding set up.

*From looking at the top edges a stair tread shaper cutter could be used
for both the straight and curved sections on a shaper or a similar
cutter on a molding machine.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Shap...ad-Nose-3-4-Bo...

http://www.woodmastertools.com/NS/ac...il.cfm?PID=771

Being much less radical of a curved profile for the sides than on the
original photo Kevin provided, the profile below would fit right in with
your above, and also with dadiOH's suggested method.

The bevels for the sides can be cut on the table saw @ +/- 75 degrees,
then using 1/2" round over bit for the top and bottom,and the bevel cut
waste faired with a sander/belt sander:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...dShopJigsFixtu...

The curved corners just needs 2 1/4" x 7" stock; joined to the sides
_before_ using the 1/2" round over bit (route the top and bottom of the
sides and corners at the same time after they're joined for a good
transition), and the curve on the outside radius of the corner blocks
could probably be faired relatively easy with a sander to match, a la
dadiOH'suggestion.

--www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Brilliant! Many thanks Swingman, dadiOH, and others. I have downloaded
your templates and now it's time to for me to get busy!

Kevin

Kevin wrote:


Brilliant! Many thanks Swingman, dadiOH, and others. I have downloaded
your templates and now it's time to for me to get busy!

And John Grossbolin and Gerald Ross ...

Might take a few tweaks, but, with the less radical curve profile, it is
certainly something to consider.

When you get it done post some photos. Have fun!

--
www.ewoodshop.com

Bill wrote:


How about a technique based on turning? Quarter the result for your 4
corners? Too big? I saw your office glueup, you could do it! : )

I don't own a lathe so I don't think along those lines, but I can see how a
hollowed "vase", with that profile on the outside radius, and with the same
wall thickness as the sides, then "quartered", would probably do it.

Good thought ...

--
www.ewoodshop.com

On Jan 27, 9:13*am, Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:









Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

As others have said, band saw. *You could also do it with a router, jig
needed. *You could also do it by hand...

1. plane or grind to rough shape

2. clean up/fine shape with rasp

3. sand

Not hard, done it numerous times. *Mostly for hand rails for a sailboat.

I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round over_
(for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the _sides_ *and
curved corners of the "horse collar".

To do this repeatedly and accurately around six sides and, even harder,
around the eight curved corners, and without a jig and/or some special
machinery, appears to be a daunting task that takes a lot more thought
doing it in a small shop than just the ninety degree corners.

AFAICT, no one has addressed this yet. Nifty problem for a problem
solver using small shop hand and power tools.

I've got some hazy notions at this point, but they are so unsettled it
hurts my mind to think about them.

--www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Just ram the sumbiatch through the cnc...naaaaa.. won't work either...

A William & Hussy and a set of full-width knives and a arched bed will
do this easily but the set-up will be pricy. One could do this in two
passes as the W&H is open-sided. At $14K per job one could justify a
W&H. (Do they still make them? I go look)

On Jan 28, 12:22*pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Jan 27, 9:13*am, Swingman wrote:









On 1/27/2012 6:52 AM, dadiOH wrote:

Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!

As others have said, band saw. *You could also do it with a router, jig
needed. *You could also do it by hand...

1. plane or grind to rough shape

2. clean up/fine shape with rasp

3. sand

Not hard, done it numerous times. *Mostly for hand rails for a sailboat.

I think the problem he's having is how to do the enormous _round over_
(for want of a better word) on the the outside face of the _sides_ *and
curved corners of the "horse collar".

To do this repeatedly and accurately around six sides and, even harder,
around the eight curved corners, and without a jig and/or some special
machinery, appears to be a daunting task that takes a lot more thought
doing it in a small shop than just the ninety degree corners.

AFAICT, no one has addressed this yet. Nifty problem for a problem
solver using small shop hand and power tools.

I've got some hazy notions at this point, but they are so unsettled it
hurts my mind to think about them.

--www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Just ram the sumbiatch through the cnc...naaaaa.. won't work either...

A William & Hussy and a set of full-width knives and a arched bed will
do this easily but the set-up will be pricy. One could do this in two
passes as the W&H is open-sided. At $14K per job one could justify a
W&H. (Do they still make them? I go look)

In fact they still do make those. Problem solved. (Mmmmm would that
make a nice addition to my collection of toys//^^^^tools?

On 1/27/2012 6:47 PM, Bill wrote:

How about a technique based on turning? Quarter the result for your 4
corners? Too big? I saw your office glueup, you could do it! : )


For a one time run of four corners, and if you have access to a lathe
and can turn most of it like a vase and then cut out the bottom with a
jig saw, this how your idea would work.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...33482280524050

With the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle of
the blank after it's turned, leaving the correct thickness to match the
sides), and were I going to be in the business of doing this on a
regular basis, this is probably the way I would end up doing it.

It would be interesting to see if a lathe is used by the company in
question.

It's funny, and understandable, at how you tend to look at only those
solutions that can be accomplished with the tools you own. I would never
had considered this solution without owning a lathe.

Well done, sir!

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 6:47 PM, Bill wrote:

How about a technique based on turning? Quarter the result for your 4
corners? Too big? I saw your office glueup, you could do it! : )


For a one time run of four corners, and if you have access to a lathe
and can turn most of it like a vase and then cut out the bottom with a
jig saw, this how your idea would work.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...33482280524050

With the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle
of the blank after it's turned, leaving the correct thickness to
match the sides), and were I going to be in the business of doing
this on a regular basis, this is probably the way I would end up
doing it.
It would be interesting to see if a lathe is used by the company in
question.

It's funny, and understandable, at how you tend to look at only those
solutions that can be accomplished with the tools you own. I would
never had considered this solution without owning a lathe.


I own a lathe and I wouldn't consider it either. Easier to do by hand
rimshot



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 6:47 PM, Bill wrote:

How about a technique based on turning? Quarter the result for your 4
corners? Too big? I saw your office glueup, you could do it! : )


For a one time run of four corners, and if you have access to a lathe
and can turn most of it like a vase and then cut out the bottom with a
jig saw, this how your idea would work.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...33482280524050


With the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle of
the blank after it's turned, leaving the correct thickness to match the
sides), and were I going to be in the business of doing this on a
regular basis, this is probably the way I would end up doing it.

It would be interesting to see if a lathe is used by the company in
question.

It's funny, and understandable, at how you tend to look at only those
solutions that can be accomplished with the tools you own. I would never
had considered this solution without owning a lathe.

Well done, sir!


Gosh thanks. And thanks for sharing the SU drawing and the rest of your
post too!

Swingman wrote:
On 1/27/2012 6:47 PM, Bill wrote:

How about a technique based on turning? Quarter the result for your 4
corners?


For a one time run of four corners, and if you have access to a lathe
and can turn most of it like a vase and then cut out the bottom with a
jig saw, this how your idea would work.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...33482280524050


With the right equipment (a lathe, and a way to drill out the middle of
the blank after it's turned, leaving the correct thickness to match the
sides), and were I going to be in the business of doing this on a
regular basis, this is probably the way I would end up doing it.

I'm not sure what I would do if a cross-section had an interior arc.
I think I would leave most of the interior solid, so that, after
quartering, I could use the TS to maketwo non-through cuts to each
"quarter", leaving interior vees of 90 degrees for simple installation.
The result would NOT look just like in the "manufacturer's picture,
but according to the web site, they "mill" the corners--which I guess
implies that they use CNC machinery.
Being a Shuffleboard game salesman must be a tough gig these days and I
am certainly not adding the project to my list--but doing this was fun!
Now a *pool table*, I might contemplate... ; )

Kevin wrote:
Hi all, I am building a long wooden shuffleboard table and would like
to copy the design in this link.

http://www.shuffleboard.net/9-domina...ard-table.html

The part I am unsure about is how to make the curved "horse collar"
ends on the table top. If you click on the photos you eventually will
see a close up and can see that it is capped with a rounded bit of
trim, which is no problem, but the part I'm not sure how to make is
the side piece which is also curved. Any ideas on how best to make
this feature?

Thanks!


I just saw the following "Craps Table" project, and it reminded
me of this problem we were discussing:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/60696

One of the 6 pictures is an interesting one of its plywood-laminated corner