Well, I did get the Jet 1100 Vortex and I like it. Much quieter than the
old shop vac and doesn't use any more footprint than the SV and the Dust
Deputy together. Collection bag holds plenty and is easy to take off and
dump.

But.

I am a one-man, one tool at a time, shop and I just run the hose from the DC
to whichever tool I'm using at the time. This sometimes requires that I
neck down to a 1-1/2" hose. (track saw, router, sander) The problem with
this is that this restricts the flow through the 4" hose so much that my CFM
drops below what is necessary to get the sawdust to the DC. It collects in
the 4" tubing. After running a job, I disconnect each segment of my
hose-run starting with the tool connection, working my way back to the 4"
hose. This allows the CFM to increase and sucks the sawdust on into the DC.

For now, I only have one tool, my band saw, that has a 4" port and it really
does just fine on a 2" hose.

So, my 4" hose sections have gone into storage for now and I am using 2"
primarily. Using the 2" straight from the DC's 4" port and then necking
down to the small hose for the small-hose tools seems to work just fine.

Putting in a "system" is not in the picture at this time. It seems strange
to have the Jet 1100 just using 2" hose but it seems to work just fine for
me.

I ponied up for the remote control start switch as well. I keep the remote
unit clipped to my apron. Very convenient.

Had a minor crisis the other day. Hit some metal in some (new) plywood I
was routing and started some dust smoldering. I didn't get any of the
glowing/smoldering debris into the DC but being the ex-firefighter
worry-wart that I am, I emptied the DC into a metal trash can and set it out
by the street for the night. Only about a 5-gal. bucket load of dust.
Nothing exciting happened, no fires, etc. But can't be too careful. I am
thinking about a smoke alarm for the shop (my garage) that I can activate
when I go in for the night. One that I will be able to hear from inside
the house. Either that or move the DC to an outside location and set up a
fire sprinkler system. Did I mention that I am a worry-wart?

Ralph

I am a one-man, one tool at a time, shop and I just run the hose from the DC
to whichever tool I'm using at the time. *This sometimes requires that I
neck down to a 1-1/2" hose. *(track saw, router, sander) The problem with
this is that this restricts the flow through the 4" hose so much that my CFM
drops below what is necessary to get the sawdust to the DC. *It collects in
the 4" tubing. *After running a job, I disconnect each segment of my
hose-run starting with the tool connection, working my way back to the 4"
hose. *This allows the CFM to increase and sucks the sawdust on into the DC.


Bill Pentz, the guru of dust collection says to run the largest pipe
possible as close to the machine as possible to minimize the pressure
drop. You can learn much more here http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

On 1/3/2012 11:44 PM, Ralph Compton wrote:
Well, I did get the Jet 1100 Vortex and I like it. Much quieter than the
old shop vac and doesn't use any more footprint than the SV and the Dust
Deputy together. Collection bag holds plenty and is easy to take off and
dump.

But.

I am a one-man, one tool at a time, shop and I just run the hose from
the DC to whichever tool I'm using at the time. This sometimes requires
that I neck down to a 1-1/2" hose. (track saw, router, sander) The
problem with this is that this restricts the flow through the 4" hose so
much that my CFM drops below what is necessary to get the sawdust to the
DC. It collects in the 4" tubing. After running a job, I disconnect each
segment of my hose-run starting with the tool connection, working my way
back to the 4" hose. This allows the CFM to increase and sucks the
sawdust on into the DC.

For now, I only have one tool, my band saw, that has a 4" port and it
really does just fine on a 2" hose.

So, my 4" hose sections have gone into storage for now and I am using 2"
primarily. Using the 2" straight from the DC's 4" port and then necking
down to the small hose for the small-hose tools seems to work just fine.

Putting in a "system" is not in the picture at this time. It seems
strange to have the Jet 1100 just using 2" hose but it seems to work
just fine for me.

I ponied up for the remote control start switch as well. I keep the
remote unit clipped to my apron. Very convenient.

Had a minor crisis the other day. Hit some metal in some (new) plywood I
was routing and started some dust smoldering. I didn't get any of the
glowing/smoldering debris into the DC but being the ex-firefighter
worry-wart that I am, I emptied the DC into a metal trash can and set it
out by the street for the night. Only about a 5-gal. bucket load of
dust. Nothing exciting happened, no fires, etc. But can't be too
careful. I am thinking about a smoke alarm for the shop (my garage) that
I can activate when I go in for the night. One that I will be able to
hear from inside the house. Either that or move the DC to an outside
location and set up a fire sprinkler system. Did I mention that I am a
worry-wart?

Ralph

I use a Festool vac for portable power tools. I use the DC for all
stationary tools. I have never had a problem with a 4" hose running to
any stationary tool, even the router table fence". I believe the
problem you are introducing is too much restriction. Try reducing "at"
the tool, my 30 foot 4" hose does not get reduced until it connects to
the tool.
Most likely your longer narrow hose hooked up to the 4" hose is
producing an interruption in air flow. A smaller restriction is ok but
you need to keep it "SHORT", adapter length short at the tool.

On Jan 4, 4:56*am, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 1/3/2012 11:44 PM, Ralph Compton wrote:





Well, I did get the Jet 1100 Vortex and I like it. Much quieter than the
old shop vac and doesn't use any more footprint than the SV and the Dust
Deputy together. Collection bag holds plenty and is easy to take off and
dump.

But.

I am a one-man, one tool at a time, shop and I just run the hose from
the DC to whichever tool I'm using at the time. This sometimes requires
that I neck down to a 1-1/2" hose. (track saw, router, sander) The
problem with this is that this restricts the flow through the 4" hose so
much that my CFM drops below what is necessary to get the sawdust to the
DC. It collects in the 4" tubing. After running a job, I disconnect each
segment of my hose-run starting with the tool connection, working my way
back to the 4" hose. This allows the CFM to increase and sucks the
sawdust on into the DC.

For now, I only have one tool, my band saw, that has a 4" port and it
really does just fine on a 2" hose.

So, my 4" hose sections have gone into storage for now and I am using 2"
primarily. Using the 2" straight from the DC's 4" port and then necking
down to the small hose for the small-hose tools seems to work just fine..

Putting in a "system" is not in the picture at this time. It seems
strange to have the Jet 1100 just using 2" hose but it seems to work
just fine for me.

I ponied up for the remote control start switch as well. I keep the
remote unit clipped to my apron. Very convenient.

Had a minor crisis the other day. Hit some metal in some (new) plywood I
was routing and started some dust smoldering. I didn't get any of the
glowing/smoldering debris into the DC but being the ex-firefighter
worry-wart that I am, I emptied the DC into a metal trash can and set it
out by the street for the night. Only about a 5-gal. bucket load of
dust. Nothing exciting happened, no fires, etc. But can't be too
careful. I am thinking about a smoke alarm for the shop (my garage) that
I can activate when I go in for the night. One that I will be able to
hear from inside the house. Either that or move the DC to an outside
location and set up a fire sprinkler system. Did I mention that I am a
worry-wart?

Ralph

I use a Festool vac for portable power tools. *I use the DC for all
stationary tools. *I have never had a problem with a 4" hose running to
any stationary tool, even the router table fence". *I believe the
problem you are introducing is too much restriction. *Try reducing "at"
the tool, my 30 foot 4" hose does not get reduced until it connects to
the tool.
Most likely your longer narrow hose hooked up to the 4" hose is
producing an interruption in air flow. *A smaller restriction is ok but
you need to keep it "SHORT", adapter length short at the tool.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's what Bill says.

"Ralph Compton" wrote in
m:

*snip*

Had a minor crisis the other day. Hit some metal in some (new)
plywood I was routing and started some dust smoldering. I didn't get
any of the glowing/smoldering debris into the DC but being the
ex-firefighter worry-wart that I am, I emptied the DC into a metal
trash can and set it out by the street for the night. Only about a
5-gal. bucket load of dust. Nothing exciting happened, no fires, etc.
But can't be too careful. I am thinking about a smoke alarm for the
shop (my garage) that I can activate when I go in for the night. One
that I will be able to hear from inside the house. Either that or
move the DC to an outside location and set up a fire sprinkler system.
Did I mention that I am a worry-wart?

Ralph


Maybe you could get two fire alarms that are linked together. If one goes
off, so would the other. I did this with a doorbell and it usually works
(the doorbell button transmitter doesn't always send a strong signal.)

You need a CO alarm if you've got anything other than electric heat. The
alarm going off might be the first sign of something wrong.

Puckdroppper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

Oh, absolutely. The problem is too much restriction.

But, as I probably didn't make clear, none of my tools (including the DC)
are "stationary". They all are on wheels and get rolled out and rolled
back. The wife's car absolutely has to spend every night in the garage.
Band saw has a 4" port. Portable table saw, portable router table, portable
planer, and portable scroll saw have 2" connections. The router table
actually has a restrictive fitting, the hole is only 1.25 inch but it
accepts a 2" hose. My portable sliding miter saw takes a 1-1/2" connection
but I am going to build a dust hood-type collector for it. And with some
tools, such as track saw, router, finish sander, etc., even a 2" hose is
awfully cumbersome.

Using a maximum of 20' of 2" seems to be working just fine for me. The 2"
is a lot less hassle to drag from tool to tool than the 4" hose was. Also,
when equally restricted, the velocity (not CFM) of the airflow through the
2" hose is greater than that in the velocity of the flow in the 4" hose.
This reduces the amount of "drop out" and I get all my sawdust actually
getting to the DC. For the track saw, sander, and router, a short section
of 1-1/4 inch between the 2" and the tool makes the tool easier to maneuver
and all the dust gets sucked up.

And, most importantly, it works. And it works better (and is much, much,
quieter and convenient) than what I originally had. I am in the process of
upgrading all my tool connections so that I can optimize flow while
maintaining convenience. But what I have now is what I have now and is what
I have to work with. I completely understand the concept of friction loss
being related to flow rate and pipe size.

Previously, someone wanted to know how the Jet 1100 Vortex was working for
me. That is what prompted my original post. The Jet 1100 is working just
fine for me, given my particular situation. I like it. It would work even
better if I had a shop where I had permanent tool installations and a rigid
duct system. I'm envious of those of you that do and the book on how to
design DC systems is on my want list.

Ralph


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/3/2012 11:44 PM, Ralph Compton wrote:
Well, I did get the Jet 1100 Vortex and I like it. Much quieter than the
old shop vac and doesn't use any more footprint than the SV and the Dust
Deputy together. Collection bag holds plenty and is easy to take off and
dump.

But.

I am a one-man, one tool at a time, shop and I just run the hose from
the DC to whichever tool I'm using at the time. This sometimes requires
that I neck down to a 1-1/2" hose. (track saw, router, sander) The
problem with this is that this restricts the flow through the 4" hose so
much that my CFM drops below what is necessary to get the sawdust to the
DC. It collects in the 4" tubing. After running a job, I disconnect each
segment of my hose-run starting with the tool connection, working my way
back to the 4" hose. This allows the CFM to increase and sucks the
sawdust on into the DC.

For now, I only have one tool, my band saw, that has a 4" port and it
really does just fine on a 2" hose.

So, my 4" hose sections have gone into storage for now and I am using 2"
primarily. Using the 2" straight from the DC's 4" port and then necking
down to the small hose for the small-hose tools seems to work just fine.

Putting in a "system" is not in the picture at this time. It seems
strange to have the Jet 1100 just using 2" hose but it seems to work
just fine for me.

I ponied up for the remote control start switch as well. I keep the
remote unit clipped to my apron. Very convenient.

Had a minor crisis the other day. Hit some metal in some (new) plywood I
was routing and started some dust smoldering. I didn't get any of the
glowing/smoldering debris into the DC but being the ex-firefighter
worry-wart that I am, I emptied the DC into a metal trash can and set it
out by the street for the night. Only about a 5-gal. bucket load of
dust. Nothing exciting happened, no fires, etc. But can't be too
careful. I am thinking about a smoke alarm for the shop (my garage) that
I can activate when I go in for the night. One that I will be able to
hear from inside the house. Either that or move the DC to an outside
location and set up a fire sprinkler system. Did I mention that I am a
worry-wart?

Ralph

I use a Festool vac for portable power tools. I use the DC for all
stationary tools. I have never had a problem with a 4" hose running to
any stationary tool, even the router table fence". I believe the problem
you are introducing is too much restriction. Try reducing "at" the tool,
my 30 foot 4" hose does not get reduced until it connects to the tool.
Most likely your longer narrow hose hooked up to the 4" hose is producing
an interruption in air flow. A smaller restriction is ok but you need to
keep it "SHORT", adapter length short at the tool.

On 1/5/2012 12:30 AM, Ralph Compton wrote:
Snip



Previously, someone wanted to know how the Jet 1100 Vortex was working
for me. That is what prompted my original post. The Jet 1100 is working
just fine for me, given my particular situation. I like it. It would
work even better if I had a shop where I had permanent tool
installations and a rigid duct system. I'm envious of those of you that
do and the book on how to design DC systems is on my want list.


I think I was the one that asked., I have a JEt DC and only recently
have mastered changing out the bag. I do it through the top opening.
With the vortex that opening is filled. I was wondering how much
trouble it is to change the bottom bag. Mine uses the disposable
plastic bottom bag with pleated filter on top. BTY if yours uses the
clear bag, you can use the 45 gal 4 mil contractor bags too.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 1/5/2012 12:30 AM, Ralph Compton wrote:
Snip



Previously, someone wanted to know how the Jet 1100 Vortex was
working for me. That is what prompted my original post. The Jet 1100
is working just fine for me, given my particular situation. I like
it. It would work even better if I had a shop where I had permanent
tool installations and a rigid duct system. I'm envious of those of
you that do and the book on how to design DC systems is on my want
list.


I think I was the one that asked., I have a JEt DC and only recently
have mastered changing out the bag. I do it through the top opening.
With the vortex that opening is filled. I was wondering how much
trouble it is to change the bottom bag. Mine uses the disposable
plastic bottom bag with pleated filter on top. BTY if yours uses the
clear bag, you can use the 45 gal 4 mil contractor bags too.

I use a homemade "cyclone" consisting of a garbage can with a
vortex-inducing lid. It's amazing what that does to prevent fighting
the DC to empty the bag. As far as the too restricted air flow is
concerned, couldn't you put a "bypass" Y in right by the tool, at the
end of the 4" tubing, and put in a "gate" that you open a crack to have
some extra air flow?


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Jan 5, 7:52*am, Han wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote om:



On 1/5/2012 12:30 AM, Ralph Compton wrote:
Snip

Previously, someone wanted to know how the Jet 1100 Vortex was
working for me. That is what prompted my original post. The Jet 1100
is working just fine for me, given my particular situation. I like
it. It would work even better if I had a shop where I had permanent
tool installations and a rigid duct system. I'm envious of those of
you that do and the book on how to design DC systems is on my want
list.

I think I was the one that asked., *I have a JEt DC and only recently
have mastered changing out the bag. *I do it through the top opening.
With the vortex that opening is filled. *I was wondering how much
trouble it is to change the bottom bag. *Mine uses the disposable
plastic bottom bag with pleated filter on top. *BTY if yours uses the
clear bag, you can use the 45 gal 4 mil contractor bags too.

I use a homemade "cyclone" consisting of a garbage can with a
vortex-inducing lid. *It's amazing what that does to prevent fighting
the DC to empty the bag. As far as the too restricted air flow is
concerned, couldn't you put a "bypass" Y in right by the tool, at the
end of the 4" tubing, and put in a "gate" that you open a crack to have
some extra air flow?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

I second the trash can lid cyclone adapter. I have had my system for
a little more than one year and I don't think I have had the bottom
bag off more than 3-4 times. The bad mews it is still as clumsy as
the first time because I don't get any practice :^). Probably the
second best thing is it keeps the hard stuff way from the impeller.
Every time I hear a "clunk" in the trash can I think the impeller just
dodged another piece of abrasive or damaging junk.

I use a piece of fairly tight bungee to hold the lid firmly to the
can. I can have the lid off, the can carried to the trash or garden
and back on in about as much time as it takes me to walk to the dump
spot. Mine came as a promotion with the collector but they are well
worth the $25-30 I see them advertised for (+ metal can).

RonB

The plastic bag system on my Jet was counter-intuitive for me at first. I
expected the bag and retaining belt to go "around" rather than "inside" the
housing. As it is, the bag folds over the retaining belt and then the
belt, with bag, is inserted into the housing from below, and the semi-rigid
belt kinda snaps into a sorta groove, holding the whole thing sturdily
enough. It would be very easy to substitute the provided bag with almost
any heavy-duty plastic bag but I suspect I will get LOTS of use from the
provided bags. They are plenty substantial enough for my use.

As for the filter assembly. I haven't generated enough dust yet to have
given it a fair try. I don't get any significant droppings into the bag
when I operate the cleaning mechanism. Means most of what I suck up goes
through the Vortex down into the bag.

IF I were generating a lot of sawdust, I might consider some sort of system
where I eliminate the bag in favor of a rigid barrel, which I could more
easily pull off and dump as needed.

And, if I had the luxury of putting my DC outside, along the garage,
downwind, I think a cloth filter bag would have been fine.

Yesterday I was putting a rabbet edge on some panels for a garage cabinet I
am building for a friend. The weather was nice so I just moved the tablesaw
out onto the driveway to use as a bench and let the wind carry my dust onto
the lawn for some light mulching.

Just for the experiment, I needed to empty my shredder the other day so I
took it into the garage and used the DC to empty it. All the shredded paper
went right on into the bag, leaving me with a nice and clean shredder
hopper.

I completely agree with having a trash-can cyclone, especially with regards
to saving the blades on the DC impeller. I intend to get one. For now I am
cautious about what I suck up. No nuts, bolts, nails, chunks of wood,
plastic bags, etc. My optimum system would including mounting the DC in a
shed alongside the garage and a trash can cyclone just inside. I was always
impressed what my Dust Deputy did with regards to keeping junk out of my
shop vac.

Once I finally get organized, things will improve.

Regards, Ralph


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/5/2012 12:30 AM, Ralph Compton wrote:
Snip



Previously, someone wanted to know how the Jet 1100 Vortex was working
for me. That is what prompted my original post. The Jet 1100 is working
just fine for me, given my particular situation. I like it. It would
work even better if I had a shop where I had permanent tool
installations and a rigid duct system. I'm envious of those of you that
do and the book on how to design DC systems is on my want list.


I think I was the one that asked., I have a JEt DC and only recently have
mastered changing out the bag. I do it through the top opening. With the
vortex that opening is filled. I was wondering how much trouble it is to
change the bottom bag. Mine uses the disposable plastic bottom bag with
pleated filter on top. BTY if yours uses the clear bag, you can use the
45 gal 4 mil contractor bags too.

When I got my large Delta DC, it has those
goofy bag rings inside and I hated them.

I called Delta and they sent me a metal strap
those goes around the outside.

I hold my plastic bags with small rare earth magnets
and then slip the metal strap on with no problems.

What I plan to do at some point is to add a metal
cyclone to my system and eliminate changing the lower
bags.

Check these out...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cyclone-Sepa...em3ef67a 7a8b

On 1/5/2012 4:20 AM, Leon wrote:


I think I was the one that asked., I have a JEt DC and only recently
have mastered changing out the bag. I do it through the top opening.
With the vortex that opening is filled. I was wondering how much trouble
it is to change the bottom bag. Mine uses the disposable plastic bottom
bag with pleated filter on top. BTY if yours uses the clear bag, you can
use the 45 gal 4 mil contractor bags too.

On 1/5/2012 11:41 AM, Ralph Compton wrote:
The plastic bag system on my Jet was counter-intuitive for me at first.
I expected the bag and retaining belt to go "around" rather than
"inside" the housing. As it is, the bag folds over the retaining belt
and then the belt, with bag, is inserted into the housing from below,
and the semi-rigid belt kinda snaps into a sorta groove, holding the
whole thing sturdily enough. It would be very easy to substitute the
provided bag with almost any heavy-duty plastic bag but I suspect I will
get LOTS of use from the provided bags. They are plenty substantial
enough for my use.

I am a visual Kinda person and depend on seeing what is going on when
replacing the bag. LOL.
The bags that come with collector are substantial but once you drag it
out of the DC a time or two with all that weight you will find that they
tend to be too much trouble to reuse and IMHO not worth the dust cloud
produced when you empty it. For me, once it is in the bag it stays there.


As for the filter assembly. I haven't generated enough dust yet to have
given it a fair try. I don't get any significant droppings into the bag
when I operate the cleaning mechanism. Means most of what I suck up goes
through the Vortex down into the bag.

IF I were generating a lot of sawdust, I might consider some sort of
system where I eliminate the bag in favor of a rigid barrel, which I
could more easily pull off and dump as needed.

And, if I had the luxury of putting my DC outside, along the garage,
downwind, I think a cloth filter bag would have been fine.

Yesterday I was putting a rabbet edge on some panels for a garage
cabinet I am building for a friend. The weather was nice so I just moved
the tablesaw out onto the driveway to use as a bench and let the wind
carry my dust onto the lawn for some light mulching.

Just for the experiment, I needed to empty my shredder the other day so
I took it into the garage and used the DC to empty it. All the shredded
paper went right on into the bag, leaving me with a nice and clean
shredder hopper.

Hummmmmm that will not take up much room in the DC at all...



I completely agree with having a trash-can cyclone, especially with
regards to saving the blades on the DC impeller. I intend to get one.
For now I am cautious about what I suck up. No nuts, bolts, nails,
chunks of wood, plastic bags, etc. My optimum system would including
mounting the DC in a shed alongside the garage and a trash can cyclone
just inside. I was always impressed what my Dust Deputy did with regards
to keeping junk out of my shop vac.

My DC is about 6 years old now and I try not to suck up large chunks of
wood but my impeller is steel and it has been hit countless times by
marble sized chunks of wood, no noticeable damage. Be ware of sucking
up a rag or steal woo, they will for sure throw off the balance of the
impeller and you will have to dig it out of every crack.



Once I finally get organized, things will improve.

Enjoy the clean shop!

On Jan 5, 2:32*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 1/5/2012 11:41 AM, Ralph Compton wrote:

*Be ware of sucking up a rag or steal wool, they will for sure throw
off the balance of the
impeller and you will have to dig it out of every crack.



Once I finally get organized, things will improve.

Enjoy the clean shop!

I humbly posted this earlier. )

Also beware of putting a trash bag in your cyclone-equipped metal
trash can. The moment I hit the switch my brain said "This might not
work!"

It didn't.

Ron

On 1/5/2012 12:41 PM, Ralph Compton wrote:

I completely agree with having a trash-can cyclone, especially with
regards to saving the blades on the DC impeller. I intend to get one.

I use standard 45 or 90 PVC fittings inside the pre-collection drum to
spin the air around the outside of the drum with the hose from the DC
connected to the middle of the lid of the drum. Nothing other than some
fine powder gets to the DC. As you have said, when the air goes from a
small hose to a large hose, the air expands, velocity drops and heavy
stuff falls out. When the air goes from a 2-4" pipe to a 24" pipe
(drum) all the heavy stuff falls out. If the air is spinning around the
outside of the drum via PVC connectors, just about everything other than
some fine powder drops out. No need to spend money on a cyclone that
does the same thing.

For now I am cautious about what I suck up. No nuts, bolts, nails,
chunks of wood, plastic bags, etc. My optimum system would including
mounting the DC in a shed alongside the garage and a trash can cyclone
just inside.

I was always impressed what my Dust Deputy did with
regards to keeping junk out of my shop vac.


--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com