As I understand it, cedar is supposed to uphold very well in outside
weather. Therefore, when using it to build something, is it still necessary
to use a stain or finish and if so, anything specific?

Thank you

On Dec 20, 3:02*pm, "Justin Time" wrote:
As I understand it, cedar is supposed to uphold very well in outside
weather. Therefore, when using it to build something, is it still necessary
to use a stain or finish and if so, anything specific?

Thank you

I know about Western Red Cedar. It is a good all weather wood. Not so
much for submerged situations but full on weather exposure is fine.
They use it for shingles.

It will sunburn at first and get a little darker. Then it will start
to fade towards white. It will turn silver/gray after it has been wet
and sun exposed few times.

You can use a penetration oil stain to set the color and hold it
longer but it will fade and gray eventually unless reapplied at least
every year.

On 12/20/2011 5:44 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Dec 20, 3:02 pm, "Justin wrote:
As I understand it, cedar is supposed to uphold very well in outside
weather. Therefore, when using it to build something, is it still necessary
to use a stain or finish and if so, anything specific?

Thank you

I know about Western Red Cedar. It is a good all weather wood. Not so
much for submerged situations but full on weather exposure is fine.
They use it for shingles.

It will sunburn at first and get a little darker. Then it will start
to fade towards white. It will turn silver/gray after it has been wet
and sun exposed few times.

You can use a penetration oil stain to set the color and hold it
longer but it will fade and gray eventually unless reapplied at least
every year.

What he said ...

If you want to attempt to stain it and fix the color for any length of
time check out "SIKKENS" products. We use this product for doing wooden
garage doors, WRC trim, and WRC sunbursts on gable ends.

About the only thing I've found that will last for any length of time.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Justin Time wrote:
As I understand it, cedar is supposed to uphold very well in outside
weather. Therefore, when using it to build something, is it still
necessary to use a stain or finish and if so, anything specific?


I don't use cedar but my wife recently inherited a cedar log house built in
1996. The second story was sided vertically with board and batten Western
red cedar which had never been sealed/stained/painted.

It is true that cedar heart wood is resistent to rot; however, it will turn
an ugly grey-black; it will warp; it will split; it will check. We are
ripping off all the battens and installing vinyl. Would that I could do
that to the lower story logs too.

I would paint or stain your "something", preferably paint.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH wrote:


I don't use cedar but my wife recently inherited a cedar log house
built in 1996. The second story was sided vertically with board and
batten Western red cedar which had never been sealed/stained/painted.

It is true that cedar heart wood is resistent to rot; however, it
will turn an ugly grey-black; it will warp; it will split; it will
check. We are ripping off all the battens and installing vinyl. Would
that I could do that to the lower story logs too.


Vinyl? Shame on you! Log homes and vinyl just do not go together. Not no
how. Not no way. Fast and easy way of renewing those logs is to hit them
with a pressure washer. You'll be surprised at how they pop back to life.
Then, stain/preserve and overcoat with a UV protecting clear. There are no
real life long UV protective clears out there, but you can get 5 or more
years out of the better ones before you have to re-coat. Ask me how I know
about log homes...

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
dadiOH wrote:


I don't use cedar but my wife recently inherited a cedar log house
built in 1996. The second story was sided vertically with board and
batten Western red cedar which had never been sealed/stained/painted.

It is true that cedar heart wood is resistent to rot; however, it
will turn an ugly grey-black; it will warp; it will split; it will
check. We are ripping off all the battens and installing vinyl.
Would that I could do that to the lower story logs too.


Vinyl? Shame on you! Log homes and vinyl just do not go together. Not no
how. Not no way. Fast and easy way of renewing those logs is
to hit them with a pressure washer. You'll be surprised at how they
pop back to life. Then, stain/preserve and overcoat with a UV
protecting clear. There are no real life long UV protective clears
out there, but you can get 5 or more years out of the better ones
before you have to re-coat. Ask me how I know about log homes...

The logs were cleaned (oxalic acid) and pressure washed. Will have a clear
seal.

The upper story is vinyl because the boards and bats - especially the bats -
were in horrid shape. Leaked like a sieve too but that was mostly from the
improperly installed windows and that portion (windows) was corrected.
However, given the condition of the upper siding, I wasn't about to chance
additional leaks from the cedar siding. I prefer vinyl to leaks.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

dadiOH wrote:


The upper story is vinyl because the boards and bats - especially the
bats - were in horrid shape. Leaked like a sieve too but that was
mostly from the improperly installed windows and that portion
(windows) was corrected. However, given the condition of the upper
siding, I wasn't about to chance additional leaks from the cedar
siding. I prefer vinyl to leaks.

Oh ye of little sense of adventure...

--

-Mike-

I can put you in touch with over a dozen people with a garage full of
Sikkens products sent to replace the product applications that went
wrong.

Don't use their products on cedar on a horizontal surface. Of course it
is always YOUR improper application fault but free product is sent
regularly.

Absolute garbage. Don't trust a surface coating on cedar. Get a regular
old oil product that breathes and doesn't chip off with UV exposure.
You will regret it. This problem has not been corrected since the late
70s. The usual excuse is unsatisfactory ventilation underneath the
deck. The warranties are not collectible or honoured.


----------
"Swingman" wrote in message
...

On 12/20/2011 5:44 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
On Dec 20, 3:02 pm, "Justin wrote:
As I understand it, cedar is supposed to uphold very well in outside
weather. Therefore, when using it to build something, is it still
necessary
to use a stain or finish and if so, anything specific?

Thank you

I know about Western Red Cedar. It is a good all weather wood. Not so
much for submerged situations but full on weather exposure is fine.
They use it for shingles.

It will sunburn at first and get a little darker. Then it will start
to fade towards white. It will turn silver/gray after it has been wet
and sun exposed few times.

You can use a penetration oil stain to set the color and hold it
longer but it will fade and gray eventually unless reapplied at least
every year.

What he said ...

If you want to attempt to stain it and fix the color for any length of
time check out "SIKKENS" products. We use this product for doing wooden
garage doors, WRC trim, and WRC sunbursts on gable ends.

About the only thing I've found that will last for any length of time.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

m II wrote:
I can put you in touch with over a dozen people with a garage full of
Sikkens products sent to replace the product applications that went
wrong.

Don't use their products on cedar on a horizontal surface. Of course
it is always YOUR improper application fault but free product is sent
regularly.

Absolute garbage. Don't trust a surface coating on cedar. Get a
regular old oil product that breathes and doesn't chip off with UV
exposure. You will regret it. This problem has not been corrected
since the late 70s. The usual excuse is unsatisfactory ventilation
underneath the deck. The warranties are not collectible or honoured.


So - free product is sent regularly (?), yet The warranties are not
collectible or honoured? You continue to make no sense at all.
--

-Mike-

You're welcome!

---------------
"Justin Time" wrote in message ...

Thanks for that tip.

Though I always wear latex glove when I work, it's good to know.

On Dec 20, 4:33*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 12/20/2011 5:44 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:









On Dec 20, 3:02 pm, "Justin *wrote:
As I understand it, cedar is supposed to uphold very well in outside
weather. Therefore, when using it to build something, is it still necessary
to use a stain or finish and if so, anything specific?

Thank you

I know about Western Red Cedar. It is a good all weather wood. Not so
much for submerged situations but full on weather exposure is fine.
They use it for shingles.

It will sunburn at first and get a little darker. Then it will start
to fade towards white. It will turn silver/gray after it has been wet
and sun exposed few times.

You can use a penetration oil stain to set the color and hold it
longer but it will fade and gray eventually unless reapplied at least
every year.

What he said ...

If you want to attempt to stain it and fix the color for any length of
time check out "SIKKENS" products. We use this product for doing wooden
garage doors, WRC trim, and WRC sunbursts on gable ends.


What Swing said about Sikkens Cetol. I have successfully used Cetol
products (Cetol 1 & Cetol 1-2-3 or Cetol Windows and doors) on 42
cedar windows I made. We (actually Marilyn did most of the work)
finished them in 2005 or so (3 coats) and they are still fine, no need
to refinish them yet. This is for a south-facing solarium in the Yukon
which experiences a temperature range of -50 (outside) to +35 (inside)
degrees Celsius.

I also tried water based exterior Varathane on two doors. The stuff
started peeling after a year, so I stripped them and refinished them
using Cetol.

As far as other products: Oil finishes only last about a year,
Thompson water seal only a few months on my greenhouse windows (waste
of money IMNSHO).

Behr Super liquid Rawhide also worked even better on the cedar and
spruce solarium structure (still looking great after 13 years, with
only one additional coat added in 2005 when I installed the windows)
but it is no longer available because of some class-action lawsuit in
the US --- the fungicides in it apparently did not work well in the
humid climate of northern California & Oregon. However, this product
did not dry hard like the Cetol & still retains a "leathery" feel" and
I did not want to use it on windows for fear of them sticking.

This is my experience, but as with everything YMMV.

Luigi