I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

From what I have read on this newsgroup, I believe you want to stay
with the Scary Sharp.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/10/2011 10:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

On 12/10/2011 9:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

I tried them all and switched to a WorkSharp 3000 a couple of years back
.... my chisel and plane blades have never been sharper, or easier to
maintain an edge.

Effective as scary sharp and so much less of a mess than water stones
(ugh ... nasty damn things!), or even oil stones.

I occasionally touch-up a chisel or plan blade with an Arkansas oil
stone (but only as a touch-up after the blade has been sharpened and
microbevel put on with the WS2000), just a matter of seconds, although a
leather strop works just as well.

YMMV ...

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Like most everyone I have multiple systems.

Scary sharp, water stones, Arkansas stones, and an old delta water stone
(primitive to Tormek), and a belt sander (1" wide belt) with a very find
ziconia belt. Great for really nicked up tools, or lawn mower blades..

I use my water stones the most. The finish I get with an 8000 stone is
beautiful. Mine are true water stones, I keep them in water full time. I
put a drop or 2 of bleach and a drop or 2 of dishwash soap in the water
to keep the scum down.


If you don't do a lot of sharpening scary is best/cheapest. But if you
do a lot you will go through a lot of paper. BTW scary sharp on granite
is much nicer than glass. Water will hold the paper down on granite,
while it won't on glass.

I use the old delta stone when I want a hollow grind.

I could easily survive on scary sharp, or the water stones. The Arkansas
stones are just plain ugly with oil. But I use my oil based slip stones
for gouges.

Any system you choose can and will give you a good edge. I free hand
sharpen except when I have a lot to take off to get rid of a nick. Then
I put the blade in a holder. I think the freehand was worth the effort
to learn. it takes a few seconds to get a nice edge without having to
spend a lot of time setting up the blade in a holder or jig. A sharp
edge is always safer than a dull edge.

On 12/10/2011 10:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 09:54:20 -0600, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:


I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

I vote scarry.

-Zz

On 12/10/2011 9:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

As other have mentioned, I've tried a bunch of different methods (scary sharp
included) and as of now I've settled on using one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9820-2-.../dp/B0000223JC

with the standard 1000 grit stone to flatten the backs of blades and dial in
the initial bevel, then I use a 4000 Norton water stone (by hand; my various
blade-holding jigs now sit idle) to hone the edge, topped off by polishing on a
leather strop (simple piece of leather glued smooth side down to a slab of
thick plywood, and saturated with yellowstone compound). This method yields
fabulous results (however, I do wish I had the 8000 grit Norton waterstone, but
those things are EXPENSIVE), but (as Swingman laments) it IS messy. The Makita
sharpener is a wonderful tool, but they are damn expensive these days ($300+; I
gave around $200 for mine), and at this point I might be inclined to
investigate the Worksharp WS3000 that Swingman mentions in another post. I'm
sure it's far less messy than the Makita. I do still like my water stones
though, and I don't think I'd give those up. I've tried lots of them, and in
my opinion the Nortons are the best. I also have some diamond stones of
various grits, but I only use them for rough work, sharpening my card scrapers,
and flattening my waterstones.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 09:54:20 -0600, Dr. Deb wrote:

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone 2) Why do
you use it?

I've used scary, water, and oil, plus some diamond hones for touching up
router bits. I wound up sticking with oilstones (plus the hones).

Why? Waterstones were a little quicker than oilstones, but messier and
oil doesn't cause rust. Plus waterstones require frequent flattening.
More or less the same with ScarySharp, minus the flattening, plus I
seemed to be tearing the paper quite a bit.

In the end, it's all a matter of what you like. I'm sure my decision was
influenced not only by the above reasons, but because I've used oilstones
all of my life.

I might have tried the diamond stones if I could afford them, since the
hones work great on the router bits. But for the difference in price ...

P.S. I use whatever oil I have handy, but plain old mineral oil seems to
work as well as any.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Swingman wrote in
:

On 12/10/2011 9:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I
have a few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from
Scary to a stone?

I tried them all and switched to a WorkSharp 3000 a couple of years
back ... my chisel and plane blades have never been sharper, or easier
to maintain an edge.

Effective as scary sharp and so much less of a mess than water stones
(ugh ... nasty damn things!), or even oil stones.

I occasionally touch-up a chisel or plan blade with an Arkansas oil
stone (but only as a touch-up after the blade has been sharpened and
microbevel put on with the WS2000), just a matter of seconds, although
a leather strop works just as well.

YMMV ...

I am thoroughly dissatisfied with my sharpening thus far. I have been
considering a WS3000, but you confused me - do you have a WS3000 or
WS2000, which I think is a much less capable version than the WS3000?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Dec 10, 9:54*am, "Dr. Deb" wrote:
I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. *Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) *What do you use? *Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) *Why do you use it?
3) *Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

I've used soft water stones, harder Shapton water stones, scary sharp,
and now a Veritas sharpening machine. Soft water stones hollowed out
almost immediately. I had to flatten them more than I used them.
Shapton did not hollow out as much and were OK. But still slow.
Scary sharp was a hassle to set up, change papers, mess, and slow.
I'm pretty happy with the Veritas. It has a disc on top of the
machine where you stick sandpaper. Has a guide for the chisels and
plane blades. Quick. Not as messy as scary sharp. Produces razor
sharp results due to the sandpaper spinning at a few hundred or so
rpm. Couple grits on different platters and you can go from grinding
to honed quickly.

On Dec 10, 2:15*pm, "
wrote:
On Dec 10, 9:54*am, "Dr. Deb" wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. *Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) *What do you use? *Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) *Why do you use it?
3) *Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

I've used soft water stones, harder Shapton water stones, scary sharp,
and now a Veritas sharpening machine. *Soft water stones hollowed out
almost immediately. *I had to flatten them more than I used them.
Shapton did not hollow out as much and were OK. *But still slow.
Scary sharp was a hassle to set up, change papers, mess, and slow.
I'm pretty happy with the Veritas. *It has a disc on top of the
machine where you stick sandpaper. *Has a guide for the chisels and
plane blades. *Quick. *Not as messy as scary sharp. *Produces razor
sharp results due to the sandpaper spinning at a few hundred or so
rpm. *Couple grits on different platters and you can go from grinding
to honed quickly.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...35&cat=1,43072

This is the one I have. I don't think it was this expensive 5-6-7-8
years ago. You can make your own sandpaper discs by just gluing and
cutting sandpaper to fit the discs. No need to buy the Veritas brand
sandpaper discs.

On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 11:01:03 -0500, Michael Kenefick
wrote:

From what I have read on this newsgroup, I believe you want to stay
with the Scary Sharp.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/10/2011 10:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

I use the powered version of "scary sharp", the WorkSharp 3000.

http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WS3.../dp/B000PVHIMW
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Han wrote:
Swingman wrote in

YMMV ...

I am thoroughly dissatisfied with my sharpening thus far. I have been
considering a WS3000, but you confused me - do you have a WS3000 or
WS2000, which I think is a much less capable version than the WS3000?

WS3000 . I also have a new Dell laptop, upon which I can not type without
two mistakes+ per sentence; and an iPad, for which that goes double!

--
www.ewoodshop.com

Swingman wrote in
:

Han wrote:
Swingman wrote in

YMMV ...

I am thoroughly dissatisfied with my sharpening thus far. I have
been considering a WS3000, but you confused me - do you have a WS3000
or WS2000, which I think is a much less capable version than the
WS3000?

WS3000 . I also have a new Dell laptop, upon which I can not type
without two mistakes+ per sentence; and an iPad, for which that goes
double!

Just ordered a WS3000 at Amazon. Thanks for helping with that purchase
grin. How's the Akeeda working out?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 12/10/2011 3:30 PM, Han wrote:
wrote in
:


WS3000 . I also have a new Dell laptop, upon which I can not type
without two mistakes+ per sentence; and an iPad, for which that goes
double!

Just ordered a WS3000 at Amazon. Thanks for helping with that purchase
grin. How's the Akeeda working out?

I've ordered some 8mm bits and guide bushings, cut and mounted it on a
base and have it all setup and ready to go as soon as they arrive, just
haven't had time to do anything other than other people's stuff.

I really do like the WS3000. You will go through all your tools, sharpen
everything, then back it goes in the box until the next time ... no
fuss, no muss.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 15:18:09 -0600, Swingman wrote:

WS3000 . I also have a new Dell laptop, upon which I can not type
without two mistakes+ per sentence; and an iPad, for which that goes
double!

I remember reading somewhere that a problem with horizontal wheel
grinders was that the edge didn't last as long because the scratches from
the grinder were parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular. Thus the
edge could flake off much easier.

I have no experience to either confirm or deny that theory, although it
does seem to make some sense. But the effect may be so small as to be
insignificant.

Have you noticed tools getting dull any quicker with the WS3000? Anyone
else here able to confirm or deny from experience?

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 09:54:20 -0600, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:


I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?

I use a 1" 120 grit zirconia-belted sandah to trim broken or chipped
edges, a 600 diamond hone to sharpen, a coupla 1200-1600 grit WOD
papers on any old flat surface (glass, laminate top, straight MDF; I'm
not too picky) to polish, and finish off on a leather strop with LVT
green compound (chromium + aluminum oxides).

I have some small, shaped 4000 waterstones for my gouges, but I often
just use the diamond paddles or shaped rubber sanding pad with WOD
paper on it when the stones are hiding. A piece of soft wood with a
gouge jammed into it 90 degrees to the grain works well with some LVT
green in it for honing, too.


3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

I believe that both can provide a truly fine edge, equally. But stones
cost hundreds of dollars more and take more time than my setup, plus
you have to keep buying stones as they wear out or (Oops!) break.

As a SDFWA volunteer, I helped woodworking author Paul Anthony set up
and do the sharpening clinics at the AWW show in Ontario, CA. He used
diamonds and stones, noting how nicely diamonds quickly shaped an
edge. We discussed (and he was open to) ScarySharp(tm) but I think he
preferred his stones + diamonds since he was used to them.

Use whatever works for you, Doc.

--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full description
of a happy state in this world.
-- John Locke

Larry Blanchard wrote in
:

On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 15:18:09 -0600, Swingman wrote:

WS3000 . I also have a new Dell laptop, upon which I can not type
without two mistakes+ per sentence; and an iPad, for which that goes
double!

I remember reading somewhere that a problem with horizontal wheel
grinders was that the edge didn't last as long because the scratches
from the grinder were parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular.
Thus the edge could flake off much easier.

That would mean the only area usable for sharpening was either the 6 or
12 o'clock position on the wheel. It was my impression that 3 o'clock
was the position used. I will find out when it arrives ...

I have no experience to either confirm or deny that theory, although
it does seem to make some sense. But the effect may be so small as to
be insignificant.

Have you noticed tools getting dull any quicker with the WS3000?
Anyone else here able to confirm or deny from experience?




--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 10 Dec 2011 19:56:37 GMT, Han wrote:

Swingman wrote in
m:

On 12/10/2011 9:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I
have a few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from
Scary to a stone?

I tried them all and switched to a WorkSharp 3000 a couple of years
back ... my chisel and plane blades have never been sharper, or easier
to maintain an edge.

Effective as scary sharp and so much less of a mess than water stones
(ugh ... nasty damn things!), or even oil stones.

I occasionally touch-up a chisel or plan blade with an Arkansas oil
stone (but only as a touch-up after the blade has been sharpened and
microbevel put on with the WS2000), just a matter of seconds, although
a leather strop works just as well.

YMMV ...

I am thoroughly dissatisfied with my sharpening thus far. I have been
considering a WS3000, but you confused me - do you have a WS3000 or
WS2000, which I think is a much less capable version than the WS3000?

Han, how do you sharpen your irons and why are you dissatisfied?

Have you read Leonard Lee's tome? It's a keeper, though I do several
things a bit different than he suggests. http://goo.gl/uayi5

Have you read the original Steve LaMantia treatise on Scary?

Find a local woodcarver who can show you, physically, what "truly
sharp" means. I didn't know that for far too many decades. A truly
sharp iron will actually cut into your nail when rested upon it
without any extra pressure. When you can sharpen an iron, rest it upon
your fingernail, tap it on the flat side, and it resists moving, then
raises a scraping, it's finally sharp. Anything less will skitter over
the surface of the nail very easily.

--
A sound mind in a sound body is a short but full description
of a happy state in this world.
-- John Locke

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On 10 Dec 2011 19:56:37 GMT, Han wrote:

Swingman wrote in
om:

On 12/10/2011 9:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash,
I have a few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving
from Scary to a stone?

I tried them all and switched to a WorkSharp 3000 a couple of years
back ... my chisel and plane blades have never been sharper, or
easier to maintain an edge.

Effective as scary sharp and so much less of a mess than water
stones (ugh ... nasty damn things!), or even oil stones.

I occasionally touch-up a chisel or plan blade with an Arkansas oil
stone (but only as a touch-up after the blade has been sharpened and
microbevel put on with the WS2000), just a matter of seconds,
although a leather strop works just as well.

YMMV ...

I am thoroughly dissatisfied with my sharpening thus far. I have been
considering a WS3000, but you confused me - do you have a WS3000 or
WS2000, which I think is a much less capable version than the WS3000?

Han, how do you sharpen your irons and why are you dissatisfied?

Have you read Leonard Lee's tome? It's a keeper, though I do several
things a bit different than he suggests. http://goo.gl/uayi5

Have you read the original Steve LaMantia treatise on Scary?

Find a local woodcarver who can show you, physically, what "truly
sharp" means. I didn't know that for far too many decades. A truly
sharp iron will actually cut into your nail when rested upon it
without any extra pressure. When you can sharpen an iron, rest it upon
your fingernail, tap it on the flat side, and it resists moving, then
raises a scraping, it's finally sharp. Anything less will skitter over
the surface of the nail very easily.

Larry, I've tried the scary sharp a bit and I have a set of expensive
sharpton stones. I also have a combo oilstone gizmo, and 2 very small
diamond honing plates (like 1x3"). I even went to an adult ed
woodworking class, but that was a very nice bunch of guys ad gals each
doing their own thing on the high school woodshop machines. No teaching
of sharpening. Some of these techniques got me a better edge than there
was originally, but either I haven't gotten the knack, or it is not for
me. I do have trouble getting things under the same angle from stroke
to stroke. I hope the WS3000 will help me get more consistency and will
work easier and faster than those things. If the WS3000 works for me,
maybe I can sell the sharpton stones to someone ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 11 Dec 2011 02:05:29 GMT, Han wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On 10 Dec 2011 19:56:37 GMT, Han wrote:

Swingman wrote in
news:08qdnVJdepI5GX7TnZ2dnUVZ_gOdnZ2d@giganews. com:

On 12/10/2011 9:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash,
I have a few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving
from Scary to a stone?

I tried them all and switched to a WorkSharp 3000 a couple of years
back ... my chisel and plane blades have never been sharper, or
easier to maintain an edge.

Effective as scary sharp and so much less of a mess than water
stones (ugh ... nasty damn things!), or even oil stones.

I occasionally touch-up a chisel or plan blade with an Arkansas oil
stone (but only as a touch-up after the blade has been sharpened and
microbevel put on with the WS2000), just a matter of seconds,
although a leather strop works just as well.

YMMV ...

I am thoroughly dissatisfied with my sharpening thus far. I have been
considering a WS3000, but you confused me - do you have a WS3000 or
WS2000, which I think is a much less capable version than the WS3000?

Han, how do you sharpen your irons and why are you dissatisfied?

Have you read Leonard Lee's tome? It's a keeper, though I do several
things a bit different than he suggests. http://goo.gl/uayi5

Have you read the original Steve LaMantia treatise on Scary?

Find a local woodcarver who can show you, physically, what "truly
sharp" means. I didn't know that for far too many decades. A truly
sharp iron will actually cut into your nail when rested upon it
without any extra pressure. When you can sharpen an iron, rest it upon
your fingernail, tap it on the flat side, and it resists moving, then
raises a scraping, it's finally sharp. Anything less will skitter over
the surface of the nail very easily.

Larry, I've tried the scary sharp a bit and I have a set of expensive
sharpton stones.

I also have a combo oilstone gizmo, and 2 very small
diamond honing plates (like 1x3"). I even went to an adult ed
woodworking class, but that was a very nice bunch of guys ad gals each
doing their own thing on the high school woodshop machines. No teaching
of sharpening. Some of these techniques got me a better edge than there
was originally, but either I haven't gotten the knack, or it is not for
me. I do have trouble getting things under the same angle from stroke
to stroke. I hope the WS3000 will help me get more consistency and will
work easier and faster than those things. If the WS3000 works for me,
maybe I can sell the sharpton stones to someone ...

Uh, Shapton stones, right? Yeah, someone'll buy 'em. Sharpton is
that Gnu Yawk *******^H^H^H^H^Hptist minister who ran for Dem Pres in
'04.

Have wifey get Lee's sharpening book for you for Xmas, eh?

--
Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplacable spark.

In the hopeless swamps of the not quite, the not yet, and
the not at all, do not let the hero in your soul perish
and leave only frustration for the life you deserved, but
never have been able to reach.

The world you desire can be won, it exists, it is real,
it is possible, it is yours.
-- Ayn Rand

On 12/10/2011 7:02 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 15:18:09 -0600, Swingman wrote:

WS3000 . I also have a new Dell laptop, upon which I can not type
without two mistakes+ per sentence; and an iPad, for which that goes
double!

I remember reading somewhere that a problem with horizontal wheel
grinders was that the edge didn't last as long because the scratches from
the grinder were parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular. Thus the
edge could flake off much easier.

I have no experience to either confirm or deny that theory, although it
does seem to make some sense. But the effect may be so small as to be
insignificant.

Have you noticed tools getting dull any quicker with the WS3000? Anyone
else here able to confirm or deny from experience?


Not in the least ... AAMOF, just the opposite.

Sounds like someone had an axe to grind.


--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 12/10/2011 8:05 PM, Han wrote:

to stroke. I hope the WS3000 will help me get more consistency and will
work easier and faster than those things. If the WS3000 works for me,
maybe I can sell the sharpton stones to someone ...

My bet is you are going to enjoy using it, you will sharpen every tool
in your shop the first day, and most will be still be sharp, with just a
bit of stropping, six month later.

I do not like to take the time to sharpen a tool (dislike it more than
sanding) and therefore with all other methods I often let sharpening go
much longer than was prudent. Since the WS3000 purchase, my tools have
never consistently been this sharp for this long. I would not trade the
WS3000 for all the Sharpton stones you could truck down here.

It simply works ... granted, basically all I've used it for is chisels
and plane irons,and I've had to finish up a corner chisel by hand on the
inside edges a time or two, but that would have been the case with other
methods.

Like all tools, I sure there are some things it won't do, and someone
will always find something lacking in any tool, but my highest accolade
remains: I would buy it again if I lost it.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

Uh, Shapton stones, right? Yeah, someone'll buy 'em. Sharpton is
that

Probably grin. As much as I dislike Al Sharpton, there is no need for
the language you used. Remember, I worked for some 35 years in New York
City, the last couple of decades going through metal detectors at the NY VA
at least once a day.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 01:15:21 -0600, Swingman wrote:
Like all tools, I sure there are some things it won't do, and someone
will always find something lacking in any tool, but my highest accolade
remains: I would buy it again if I lost it.

Sounds like a machine tool sharpener is the way to go. Like you, I've
never liked havning to put in the time to sharpen tools, but I do
appreciate a tool when it's properly edged.

Now I'm considering buying a Tormek sharpener.

Han, with your shapton stones, were you taught by the japanese wood
worker guy?

If you were you can't miss. If not, I'll try to explain.

1st you need to have your bench lower than you think for freehand
sharpening.

instead of rubbing the iron back and forth which can lead to you rocking
the iron, you orient the iron so the width of the iron is parallel to
the length of the stone. Then you press on the iron at the bevel and get
the iron to its bevel. Now with your finger still holding pressure down
at the bottom grab the blade with your remaining thumb and other hand
and move the iron back and forth along it's width, This will give you a
sharp edge. When you are done take a few swipes with the blade up a
little higher for a micro bevel.

This works for me better than the width of the iron being oriented to
the short side of the stone. I find this method to be so simple and
tuneable. I would like to thank the guys at Japan Woodworking for
teaching this method... I am just so amazed how simple it is to sharpen
using this method, and how really sharp they get. No I don't have
Shapton stones, I have natural water stones, and it still works.

On 12/10/2011 9:05 PM, Han wrote:
Larry wrote in
:

On 10 Dec 2011 19:56:37 GMT, wrote:

wrote in
:

On 12/10/2011 9:54 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash,
I have a few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving
from Scary to a stone?

I tried them all and switched to a WorkSharp 3000 a couple of years
back ... my chisel and plane blades have never been sharper, or
easier to maintain an edge.

Effective as scary sharp and so much less of a mess than water
stones (ugh ... nasty damn things!), or even oil stones.

I occasionally touch-up a chisel or plan blade with an Arkansas oil
stone (but only as a touch-up after the blade has been sharpened and
microbevel put on with the WS2000), just a matter of seconds,
although a leather strop works just as well.

YMMV ...

I am thoroughly dissatisfied with my sharpening thus far. I have been
considering a WS3000, but you confused me - do you have a WS3000 or
WS2000, which I think is a much less capable version than the WS3000?

Han, how do you sharpen your irons and why are you dissatisfied?

Have you read Leonard Lee's tome? It's a keeper, though I do several
things a bit different than he suggests. http://goo.gl/uayi5

Have you read the original Steve LaMantia treatise on Scary?

Find a local woodcarver who can show you, physically, what "truly
sharp" means. I didn't know that for far too many decades. A truly
sharp iron will actually cut into your nail when rested upon it
without any extra pressure. When you can sharpen an iron, rest it upon
your fingernail, tap it on the flat side, and it resists moving, then
raises a scraping, it's finally sharp. Anything less will skitter over
the surface of the nail very easily.

Larry, I've tried the scary sharp a bit and I have a set of expensive
sharpton stones. I also have a combo oilstone gizmo, and 2 very small
diamond honing plates (like 1x3"). I even went to an adult ed
woodworking class, but that was a very nice bunch of guys ad gals each
doing their own thing on the high school woodshop machines. No teaching
of sharpening. Some of these techniques got me a better edge than there
was originally, but either I haven't gotten the knack, or it is not for
me. I do have trouble getting things under the same angle from stroke
to stroke. I hope the WS3000 will help me get more consistency and will
work easier and faster than those things. If the WS3000 works for me,
maybe I can sell the sharpton stones to someone ...

tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote in
:

Han, with your shapton stones, were you taught by the japanese wood
worker guy?

If you were you can't miss. If not, I'll try to explain.

1st you need to have your bench lower than you think for freehand
sharpening.

instead of rubbing the iron back and forth which can lead to you
rocking the iron, you orient the iron so the width of the iron is
parallel to the length of the stone. Then you press on the iron at the
bevel and get the iron to its bevel. Now with your finger still
holding pressure down at the bottom grab the blade with your remaining
thumb and other hand and move the iron back and forth along it's
width, This will give you a sharp edge. When you are done take a few
swipes with the blade up a little higher for a micro bevel.

This works for me better than the width of the iron being oriented to
the short side of the stone. I find this method to be so simple and
tuneable. I would like to thank the guys at Japan Woodworking for
teaching this method... I am just so amazed how simple it is to
sharpen using this method, and how really sharp they get. No I don't
have Shapton stones, I have natural water stones, and it still works.

Thanks!! I'll try that.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 01:34:49 +0000, Han wrote:

I remember reading somewhere that a problem with horizontal wheel
grinders was that the edge didn't last as long because the scratches
from the grinder were parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular.
Thus the edge could flake off much easier.

That would mean the only area usable for sharpening was either the 6 or
12 o'clock position on the wheel. It was my impression that 3 o'clock
was the position used. I will find out when it arrives ...

Duh! The thought never crossed my mind. Maybe I should take up rocking
chair sitting instead of ww :-).

But if the whole wheel is exposed, as it is on the WS3000, I suspect the
natural tendency would be to use the nearest part.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Larry Blanchard writes:
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 01:34:49 +0000, Han wrote:

I remember reading somewhere that a problem with horizontal wheel
grinders was that the edge didn't last as long because the scratches
from the grinder were parallel to the edge instead of perpendicular.
Thus the edge could flake off much easier.

That would mean the only area usable for sharpening was either the 6 or
12 o'clock position on the wheel. It was my impression that 3 o'clock
was the position used. I will find out when it arrives ...

Duh! The thought never crossed my mind. Maybe I should take up rocking
chair sitting instead of ww :-).

But if the whole wheel is exposed, as it is on the WS3000, I suspect the
natural tendency would be to use the nearest part.

With narrow tools (chisels, narrow plane blades), you feed the blade
bevel up through a guide against the _bottom_ of the horizontal disc.

In that case, the polishing pattern leaves slight swirls across the bevel,
such that they are not quite perpendicular to the sharpened edge.

I certainly haven't notice that the edges are any weaker.

scott

On Dec 10, 10:54*am, "Dr. Deb" wrote:
I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. *Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) *What do you use? *Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) *Why do you use it?
3) *Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

600 diamond for primary bevel / general sharpening.
1200 diamond for secondary / microbevel.
Black surgical Arkansas for fine knives, where the
mesh pattern on the 1200 stone would blunt
the edge. Medium cotton buffing wheel and chrome
green compound for quickly stropping off the stubborn
last bit of wire edge. For tools you don't lend out,
the whole sharpening sequence takes less than three
minutes.

On Sat, 10 Dec 2011 09:54:20 -0600, "Dr. Deb"
wrote:


I have been using "Scary Sharpening" for my bench chisels and was
considering moving to a stone system. Before I plunk down my cash, I have a
few questions.

1) What do you use? Diamond, Ceramic, Oilstone, Waterstone
2) Why do you use it?
3) Just how much of a quality edge is to be gained from moving from Scary
to a stone?

Thanks

Deb

6" grinder (not a Tormek, a regular grinder with a white wheel) to
establish the bevel (only if a new bevel is needed) . Then on to
waterstones. 1000 grit until I get a wire edge, then 8000 grit to
finish. Stropping after to touch up until time for a new sharpening.

No sharpening jig needed, the hollow grind from the grinder gives you
a bevel that will naturally sit flat on the stone.