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#1
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Wood choice for cutting board
I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light
checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern |
#2
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Wood choice for cutting board
On Dec 5, 9:21*am, blueman wrote:
I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern Things to consider: 1. Disimilar woods expand/contract at different rates and can easily destroy this type of glue up. I have seen it break edge laminated table tops. 2. Cutting boards need to use nonpours woods, thus the use of Hard Maple as the standard? How porous or not is Purple Heart? 3. Some woods can have toxic and allergic properties. Make sure you aren't choosing one of those woods. |
#3
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Wood choice for cutting board
blueman wrote:
I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. Hickory sap wood Birch -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Wood choice for cutting board
On 12/5/2011 11:21 AM, blueman wrote:
I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern Standard woods for top quality cutting boards and butcher blocks, (DAGS "John Boos") are hard maple, cherry, and walnut. Stick with one of those and you can't go wrong. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Wood choice for cutting board
On 12/5/2011 11:21 AM, blueman wrote:
I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern Keep in mind that when you sand the surface you will get bleeding from the dark to light colors... |
#6
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Wood choice for cutting board
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
: On 12/5/2011 11:21 AM, blueman wrote: I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern Keep in mind that when you sand the surface you will get bleeding from the dark to light colors... You must also keep in mind that if actually used as a cutting board, you should be able to eat off of it without getting sick. I've never seen purpleheart used and don't know about it's properties but I would definitely check into it before using it. From a wikipedia article... "Exposure to the dust generated by cutting and sanding purpleheart can cause iritation and nausea, possibly due to the presence of dalbergione (neoflavonoid) compounds in the wood. This also makes purpleheart wood unsuitable to most people for use in jewelry." Not sure I would want to eat off of that... Be sure you have a helleva belt sander, it will definitely get a workout before you're through, sanding end grain is a bitch. Larry |
#7
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Wood choice for cutting board
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 12:21:16 -0500, blueman wrote:
I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern I hear Hemlock works well for such applications. Better check it out though. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Wood choice for cutting board
First lets caution that many woods are poisonous or is such
that you are attacked while working on it. Smoke, dust, touch, oils. Wood for cutting boards seems to be a natural. However, cutting into them leaves a slice - a place for food poison. My wife's grandfather was a butcher (after larger farms bought him out) and had to clean his large blocks after scraping them every day then cleaning each with ammonia. Housewife's don't do that. The worse are the built in ones - rancid oils... I have a program that indicates issues - and another file (somewhere) I used while turning some years ago - have to get back into it - been busy lately. Martin On 12/5/2011 11:21 AM, blueman wrote: I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Wood choice for cutting board
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 12:21:16 -0500, blueman wrote:
I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern I just posted photos on APBW of what I made from walnut, cherry, maple. I made a half dozen of them for gifts a couple of years ago. |
#10
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Wood choice for cutting board
"SonomaProducts.com" writes:
On Dec 5, 9:21Â*am, blueman wrote: I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern Things to consider: 1. Disimilar woods expand/contract at different rates and can easily destroy this type of glue up. I have seen it break edge laminated table tops. 2. Cutting boards need to use nonpours woods, thus the use of Hard Maple as the standard? How porous or not is Purple Heart? 3. Some woods can have toxic and allergic properties. Make sure you aren't choosing one of those woods. Actually, Purple Heart was suggested and used in a Cutting Board on the Wood Wisperer's web site - Now perhaps he didn't do the research... but he seemes to be otherwise relatively competent... I might consider alternatively using Walnut for my pattern pieces... |
#11
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Wood choice for cutting board
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 21:26:07 -0600, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Wood for cutting boards seems to be a natural. However, cutting into them leaves a slice - a place for food poison. My wife's grandfather was a butcher (after larger farms bought him out) and had to clean his large blocks after scraping them every day then cleaning each with ammonia. Housewife's don't do that. The worse are the built in ones - rancid oils... I think you've got it backwards - the plastic ones are the problem. See: http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/fa...iver/Research/ cuttingboard.htm -- Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw |
#12
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Wood choice for cutting board
On 12/6/2011 12:45 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Mon, 05 Dec 2011 21:26:07 -0600, Martin Eastburn wrote: Wood for cutting boards seems to be a natural. However, cutting into them leaves a slice - a place for food poison. My wife's grandfather was a butcher (after larger farms bought him out) and had to clean his large blocks after scraping them every day then cleaning each with ammonia. Housewife's don't do that. The worse are the built in ones - rancid oils... I think you've got it backwards - the plastic ones are the problem. See: http://faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/fa...iver/Research/ cuttingboard.htm I think you all got it wrong. Live in a pure environment and you soon need to live in a bubble. Everyone I know has survived eating food cut on both wood and plastic cutting boards. Quit wringing your hands and eat your pound of dirt... -- Jack Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life. http://jbstein.com |
#13
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Wood choice for cutting board
Jack wrote in :
I think you all got it wrong. Live in a pure environment and you soon need to live in a bubble. Everyone I know has survived eating food cut on both wood and plastic cutting boards. Quit wringing your hands and eat your pound of dirt... Yep. Clean is good enough. Sterile is so, well, sterile ... -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#14
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Wood choice for cutting board
On 07 Dec 2011 18:41:27 GMT, Han wrote:
Jack wrote in : I think you all got it wrong. Live in a pure environment and you soon need to live in a bubble. Everyone I know has survived eating food cut on both wood and plastic cutting boards. Quit wringing your hands and eat your pound of dirt... Yep. Clean is good enough. Sterile is so, well, sterile ... Sure. The 7 Second Rule. If it's on the ground for fewer than seven seconds, pick it up, blow it off, and eat it. Not a problem. I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though. -- Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear. -- Thomas Jefferson |
#15
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Wood choice for cutting board
Larry Jaques wrote in
: I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though. I use usually a plastic cutting board or a ceramic dish for meat. It gets immediately brushed clean with soap and hot water. Bleach just gives PCBs grin. -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#16
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Wood choice for cutting board
I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though. You can just wash it with warm water and soap, lots of rinsing and if worried after that wipe it with diluted vinegar. Easier on the wood and accepted/suggested practice by food scientest who have published on this subject. |
#17
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Wood choice for cutting board
On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 17:10:15 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote: I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though. You can just wash it with warm water and soap, lots of rinsing and if worried after that wipe it with diluted vinegar. Easier on the wood and accepted/suggested practice by food scientest who have published on this subject. What part of "plastic cutting boards" did you miss? P.S: How's Godwin? -- Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear. -- Thomas Jefferson |
#18
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Wood choice for cutting board
On Dec 8, 8:05*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 17:10:15 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com" wrote: I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though. You can just wash it with warm water and soap, lots of rinsing and if worried after that wipe it with diluted vinegar. Easier on the wood and accepted/suggested practice by food scientest who have published on this subject. What part of "plastic cutting boards" did you miss? * P.S: How's Godwin? -- Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Thomas Jefferson Plastic cutting boards are worse than wood. Here is a clip from the Boos website that mentions this FACT and also clarifiys that food service industry requires NSF certification and the list of wood cutting surface items certified happen to ONLY BE MAPLE. I can probably find a link to the study the reference if needed to silence the naves. Clip: If you care to read rather than live in your ignorance. For decades the government was tough on wood products and urged the food service industry to use plastic rather than wood cutting surfaces in the name of food safety, and for a time it was believed that plastic would replace wood. Dr. Dean Cliver, a PHD researcher at the University of Wisconsin in the 1990s, proved that wood was safer than plastic for food preparation, and the properties that first made plastic attractive motivated the return to wood as the most desirable cutting surface. Hard Maple remains the preferred hardwood for butcher blocks because it is resilient, durable, sanitary, knife-friendly, easily cleaned, and inhibits bacteria growth. JB&C also uses other hardwood species like Appalachian red oak, American cherry and American walnut in addition to North American hard rock maple. As the Food Service industry in the USA follows strict guidelines and regulations, JB&C metal and wood products can be found listed with the National Sanitation Foundation (NSF), the leader in sanitation agencies for approving equipment to be installed in foodservice and supermarket operations. The products must bear the NSF seal of approval to be accepted by the industry. |
#19
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Wood choice for cutting board
On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 20:17:43 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote: On Dec 8, 8:05*pm, Larry Jaques wrote: On Thu, 8 Dec 2011 17:10:15 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com" wrote: I _do_ bleach my cutting board every time I use it for meat, though. You can just wash it with warm water and soap, lots of rinsing and if worried after that wipe it with diluted vinegar. Easier on the wood and accepted/suggested practice by food scientest who have published on this subject. What part of "plastic cutting boards" did you miss? * P.S: How's Godwin? Plastic cutting boards are worse than wood. Here is a clip from the Boos website that mentions this FACT and also clarifiys that food service industry requires NSF certification and the list of wood cutting surface items certified happen to ONLY BE MAPLE. I can probably find a link to the study the reference if needed to silence the naves. Clip: If you care to read rather than live in your ignorance. For decades the government was tough on wood products and urged the --snip-- blink, blink Swingy's right. new filter engaged -- Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear. -- Thomas Jefferson |
#20
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Wood choice for cutting board
On Monday, December 5, 2011 11:46:23 PM UTC-5, blueman wrote:
"SonomaProducts.com" writes: On Dec 5, 9:21*am, blueman wrote: I would like to make an end-grain cutting board with a light checkerboard feild and a dark pattern (actually words) in the middle. I will use purple heart for the pattern. And hard maple for the light field but I would like to have *another* good choice of light wood to alternate with the hard maple in the field. The goal is to have the checkerboard show up nicely while also being distinctly lighter than the purple heart pattern Things to consider: 1. Disimilar woods expand/contract at different rates and can easily destroy this type of glue up. I have seen it break edge laminated table tops. 2. Cutting boards need to use nonpours woods, thus the use of Hard Maple as the standard? How porous or not is Purple Heart? 3. Some woods can have toxic and allergic properties. Make sure you aren't choosing one of those woods. Actually, Purple Heart was suggested and used in a Cutting Board on the Wood Wisperer's web site - Now perhaps he didn't do the research... but he seemes to be otherwise relatively competent... I might consider alternatively using Walnut for my pattern pieces... I just finished the maple and purpleheart cutting board from the WW site. It looks great, but what a job. One thing I can tell you when you make this (or any other end grain board) is get those cuts as accurate as possible. I didn't, because I thought I could run the final thing through the planer. Luckily I found out how disastrous that would have been before I did it. I tried the belt sander but soon realized what an amazingly long practice that was going to be. So I ended up making a 2.5" frame around it from MDF and bought 2 pieces of angle iron for tracks to sit on top and used my router and a 3/4" straight bit to get the bloody thing level. This worked great, but a lot of it could have been avoided if I had just made very accurate cuts. Jim |
#21
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Wood choice for cutting board
Here's a little cutting board Leon and I installed in a kitchen earlier
this year: https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...6354625 51890 -- www.ewoodshop.com |
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