So there was a Recall of the Sears 10 inch Radial Arm Saw. Years ago
they offered a price that wasn't worth it. But now they offered to give
me $100 for the motor and carriage. I took it, sent in the unit at their
expense. The check is in the mail toward me now. Those old saws took
off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to those who are careful
????? Can't happen to them they say. My son thought that before he lost
his finger to the blade. Scared me every time that I got my hand within
10 feet of that spinning blade.

In the mean time, I have had my eye on a small inexpensive table saw in
the $150 - $200 range for replacement. Checked out several and planned
to get a Skill Brand from Lowes store, near Christmas, when they went on
sale. (they always do at that time of the year) Then came Thanksgiving
and there came a 4 day sale with 53% off the price, shipped to the house
at no shipping cost. So I now have a new table saw for only $69 plus
tax, including the stand and carbide 10 inch blade. And can still use
all my older special blades. The only way I could do better is if they
offered to Pay me to take it.

I just can't figure out when you pull that saw to make a cut it doesn't
walk out fast. Isn't the blade 'Climb Cutting ?

Jerry

http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage

Jerry OHIO wrote:
I just can't figure out when you pull that saw to make a cut it
doesn't walk out fast. Isn't the blade 'Climb Cutting ?

Which is why you control the travel with your arm. The use of a low hook
blade is good too.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

godsword wrote:
So there was a Recall of the Sears 10 inch Radial Arm Saw. Years ago
they offered a price that wasn't worth it. But now they offered to
give me $100 for the motor and carriage. I took it, sent in the unit
at their expense. The check is in the mail toward me now. Those old
saws took off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to those
who are careful ????? Can't happen to them they say. My son thought
that before he lost his finger to the blade. Scared me every time
that I got my hand within 10 feet of that spinning blade.

In the mean time, I have had my eye on a small inexpensive table saw
in the $150 - $200 range for replacement. Checked out several and
planned to get a Skill Brand from Lowes store, near Christmas, when
they went on sale. (they always do at that time of the year) Then
came Thanksgiving and there came a 4 day sale with 53% off the price,
shipped to the house at no shipping cost. So I now have a new table
saw for only $69 plus tax, including the stand and carbide 10 inch
blade. And can still use all my older special blades. The only way I
could do better is if they offered to Pay me to take it.

Guess what? A table saw is every but as effective at severing digits as a
RAS.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

godsword wrote the following:

So there was a Recall of the Sears 10 inch Radial Arm Saw. Years ago
they offered a price that wasn't worth it. But now they offered to give
me $100 for the motor and carriage. I took it, sent in the unit at their
expense. The check is in the mail toward me now. Those old saws took
off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to those who are careful
????? Can't happen to them they say. My son thought that before he lost
his finger to the blade. Scared me every time that I got my hand within
10 feet of that spinning blade.

Probably the reason is that many of the people who buy a cheap branded
saw are not 'real' woodworkers, but are just homeowners not trained in
using the saw. I am not a real woodworker, but when I use the saw (also
a Sears 10") I treat it like I was defusing a bomb. My wife is advised
not to interrupt or talk to me when I am in the process of sawing with
it. Hmmm, maybe I should just keep it running all the time. :-)


In the mean time, I have had my eye on a small inexpensive table saw in
the $150 - $200 range for replacement. Checked out several and planned
to get a Skill Brand from Lowes store, near Christmas, when they went on
sale. (they always do at that time of the year) Then came Thanksgiving
and there came a 4 day sale with 53% off the price, shipped to the house
at no shipping cost. So I now have a new table saw for only $69 plus
tax, including the stand and carbide 10 inch blade. And can still use
all my older special blades. The only way I could do better is if they
offered to Pay me to take it.


--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

"willshak" wrote in message
m...
godsword wrote the following:

So there was a Recall of the Sears 10 inch Radial Arm Saw. Years ago they
offered a price that wasn't worth it. But now they offered to give me
$100 for the motor and carriage. I took it, sent in the unit at their
expense. The check is in the mail toward me now. Those old saws took off
many a finger and hand. And it only happens to those who are careful
????? Can't happen to them they say. My son thought that before he lost
his finger to the blade. Scared me every time that I got my hand within
10 feet of that spinning blade.

Probably the reason is that many of the people who buy a cheap branded saw
are not 'real' woodworkers, but are just homeowners not trained in using
the saw. I am not a real woodworker, but when I use the saw (also a Sears
10") I treat it like I was defusing a bomb. My wife is advised not to
interrupt or talk to me when I am in the process of sawing with it. Hmmm,
maybe I should just keep it running all the time. :-)


Same with me, I have a table, radial and trim saw plus a couple of portable
saws along with a number of small sabre and foxtail saws. When I am making
noise, my wife cannot talk to me loud enough to be heard, but she knows not
to interrupt while I am cutting and stays away until the equipment is
silenced.

I still have all 10 digits.

"willshak" wrote

Probably the reason is that many of the people who buy a cheap branded saw
are not 'real' woodworkers, but are just homeowners not trained in using
the saw. I am not a real woodworker, but when I use the saw (also a Sears
10") I treat it like I was defusing a bomb. My wife is advised not to
interrupt or talk to me when I am in the process of sawing with it. Hmmm,
maybe I should just keep it running all the time. :-)

It is amazing how so many people feel it is perfectly OK to just wander into
a work area with running machines. There is no awareness of the potential
dangers. Apparently, for them, there is no such thing as danger.

I was working in a basement workshop many years ago, ripping a small piece
off of a large piece of stock. It was a dicey cut, but it was the only way
to do it. I had to do several cuts like this. So I positioned myself well
to the side, far away from any potential kickbacks. And I was doing pretty
well too. No kickbacks, so far.

I was carefully guiding my stock through the saw, making sure I did not get
a kickback, when I spotted something out of the corner of my eye. It was
some idiot, wandering directly into the path of a potential kickback! If I
stopped the saw, it would have ruined some very expensive wood. So I
carefully guided the wood through the blade, pulled the big piece of stock
away from the blade and just turned rapidly and hit the intruder directly on
the chest with the bottom of my fist. I then turned of the saw.

He let out a yell as he was knocked onto his butt. And just before he hit
the cement floor, the thin piece of stock kicked back. It flew across the
room and hit the door. It made a dent in the door and ricocheted to the
floor very near where he was sitting. His eyes got very big. He suddenly
realized I stopped him from getting impaled. He started thanking me.

I never knew who this guy was. I yelled at him, brought him upstairs and
found the person who brought him over to the house. I threw them both out
and make it clear that anybody who would disregard basic safety rules like
these guys, would get somebody hurt or killed. And they were banished from
my house forever. I got a bit of a reputation after that incident. Nobody
bothers me when I run any kind of equipment now. Good riddance.

end of rant

"godsword" wrote in message
news

So there was a Recall of the Sears 10 inch Radial Arm Saw. Years ago they
offered a price that wasn't worth it. But now they offered to give me $100
for the motor and carriage. I took it, sent in the unit at their expense.
The check is in the mail toward me now. Those old saws took off many a
finger and hand. And it only happens to those who are careful ????? Can't
happen to them they say. My son thought that before he lost his finger to
the blade. Scared me every time that I got my hand within 10 feet of that
spinning blade.

In the mean time, I have had my eye on a small inexpensive table saw in
the $150 - $200 range for replacement. Checked out several and planned to
get a Skill Brand from Lowes store, near Christmas, when they went on
sale. (they always do at that time of the year) Then came Thanksgiving and
there came a 4 day sale with 53% off the price, shipped to the house at no
shipping cost. So I now have a new table saw for only $69 plus tax,
including the stand and carbide 10 inch blade. And can still use all my
older special blades. The only way I could do better is if they offered to
Pay me to take it.

I had one of those. The only shop tool I was scared of. Sold it before the
recall. I did not pull the blade, always pushed it. Never had a problem
however. Much more satisfied with my Jet contractors saw. WW

On Dec 3, 6:59*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
godsword wrote:
So there was a Recall of the Sears 10 inch Radial Arm Saw. Years ago
they offered a price that wasn't worth it. But now they offered to
give me $100 for the motor and carriage. I took it, sent in the unit
at their expense. The check is in the mail toward me now. *Those old
saws took off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to those
who are careful ????? Can't happen to them they say. My son thought
that before he lost his finger to the blade. Scared me every time
that I got my hand within 10 feet of that spinning blade.

In the mean time, I have had my eye on a small inexpensive table saw
in the $150 - $200 range for replacement. Checked out several and
planned to get a Skill Brand from Lowes store, near Christmas, when
they went on sale. (they always do at that time of the year) Then
came Thanksgiving and there came a 4 day sale with 53% off the price,
shipped to the house at no shipping cost. *So I now have a new table
saw for only $69 plus tax, including the stand and carbide 10 inch
blade. And can still use all my older special blades. The only way I
could do better is if they offered to Pay me to take it.

Guess what? *A table saw is every but as effective at severing digits as a
RAS.

But not as efficient for taking off an arm while butchering
it into convenient pieces ready for packing in styro trays.

Now I know I don't wan't one of those !!!


Jerry

http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage

On 12/2/2011 10:47 PM, godsword wrote:
Those old saws took off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to
those who are careful ????? Can't happen to them they say. My son
thought that before he lost his finger to the blade. Scared me every
time that I got my hand within 10 feet of that spinning blade.

While I have no quarrel with the ability of a radial arm saw to cause
injury, how is it different from say, a miter saw or table saw in that
respect? I ask this as an actual question, rather than a rhetorical
point. I am no expert. I was a butcher's delivery boy when I was a kid,
so I can also vouch for the ease with which a band saw can cut through
animal parts.

My Dad had a radial arm saw as his principal shop tool when I was
growing up. Great for crosscutting; not as convenient for ripping, but
it was what he had and was used for both. I can't imagine an easier way
to cut dadoes for shelving.

Are they really more dangerous in some way?

On 12/7/2011 6:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 12/2/2011 10:47 PM, godsword wrote:
Those old saws took off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to
those who are careful ????? Can't happen to them they say. My son
thought that before he lost his finger to the blade. Scared me every
time that I got my hand within 10 feet of that spinning blade.

While I have no quarrel with the ability of a radial arm saw to cause
injury, how is it different from say, a miter saw or table saw in that
respect? I ask this as an actual question, rather than a rhetorical
point. I am no expert. I was a butcher's delivery boy when I was a kid,
so I can also vouch for the ease with which a band saw can cut through
animal parts.

My Dad had a radial arm saw as his principal shop tool when I was
growing up. Great for crosscutting; not as convenient for ripping, but
it was what he had and was used for both. I can't imagine an easier way
to cut dadoes for shelving.

Are they really more dangerous in some way?


The difference that I see is this. On a Table saw, you have to push the
wood into the blade in order to cut, it has a tendency to throw the wood
out and back. While the Radial Arm saw has the tendency to pull the wood
into it, thus one has to Hold the saw back so that the blade does not
cut too fast and climb over the top of the wood being cut.

This tendency works the same way with our hands. On a table saw there is
only a very small amount of blade available for cutting, assuming that
the blade is only set high enough to just cut the thickness of what you
are cutting. The Radial arm saw has at least one half of the blade
available to cut at any, and all thicknesses of wood being cut.

With the table saw, you can only cut as deep into yourself as the height
of the blade is set, but on the Radial Arm saw, you can cut up to four
inches thick at any time, thus can cut all the way through a hand or
wrist instantly. So if you have the table saw set to cut 1/4 inch
material, that is the total depth that one can cut into yourself, but on
the Radial arm saw, even if there is NO wood being cut you can still
totally cut off a hand with one very quick pass. the table saw throws
you out, the Radial arm saw pulls you in. And that is the biggest and
most dangerous difference.

Now the miter saw or Chop saw is just as dangerous as the Radial arm saw
because of how much of the blade is available for cutting and the waw
that it cuts, also pulling the wood into the blade instead of throwing
the wood out as on a table saw.

Each type of saw has its own plus and minus just as any tool can cause
damage to yourself if not used properly.

godsword wrote the following:
On 12/7/2011 6:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 12/2/2011 10:47 PM, godsword wrote:
Those old saws took off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to
those who are careful ????? Can't happen to them they say. My son
thought that before he lost his finger to the blade. Scared me every
time that I got my hand within 10 feet of that spinning blade.

While I have no quarrel with the ability of a radial arm saw to cause
injury, how is it different from say, a miter saw or table saw in that
respect? I ask this as an actual question, rather than a rhetorical
point. I am no expert. I was a butcher's delivery boy when I was a kid,
so I can also vouch for the ease with which a band saw can cut through
animal parts.

My Dad had a radial arm saw as his principal shop tool when I was
growing up. Great for crosscutting; not as convenient for ripping, but
it was what he had and was used for both. I can't imagine an easier way
to cut dadoes for shelving.

Are they really more dangerous in some way?


The difference that I see is this. On a Table saw, you have to push the
wood into the blade in order to cut, it has a tendency to throw the wood
out and back. While the Radial Arm saw has the tendency to pull the wood
into it, thus one has to Hold the saw back so that the blade does not
cut too fast and climb over the top of the wood being cut.

This tendency works the same way with our hands. On a table saw there is
only a very small amount of blade available for cutting, assuming that
the blade is only set high enough to just cut the thickness of what you
are cutting. The Radial arm saw has at least one half of the blade
available to cut at any, and all thicknesses of wood being cut.

With the table saw, you can only cut as deep into yourself as the height
of the blade is set, but on the Radial Arm saw, you can cut up to four
inches thick at any time, thus can cut all the way through a hand or
wrist instantly. So if you have the table saw set to cut 1/4 inch
material, that is the total depth that one can cut into yourself, but on
the Radial arm saw, even if there is NO wood being cut you can still
totally cut off a hand with one very quick pass. the table saw throws
you out, the Radial arm saw pulls you in. And that is the biggest and
most dangerous difference.

Now the miter saw or Chop saw is just as dangerous as the Radial arm saw
because of how much of the blade is available for cutting and the waw
that it cuts, also pulling the wood into the blade instead of throwing
the wood out as on a table saw.

Each type of saw has its own plus and minus just as any tool can cause
damage to yourself if not used properly.

And there is always that large movable obstruction hanging over the work
and the fact that the RAS blade can move back and forth whereas the
table saw blade is stationary.
I am a little more comfortable using a table saw or a miter saw than a RAS.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 07:09:46 -0500, Greg Guarino wrote:

On 12/2/2011 10:47 PM, godsword wrote:
Those old saws took off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to
those who are careful ????? Can't happen to them they say. My son
thought that before he lost his finger to the blade. Scared me every
time that I got my hand within 10 feet of that spinning blade.

While I have no quarrel with the ability of a radial arm saw to cause
injury, how is it different from say, a miter saw or table saw in that
respect? I ask this as an actual question, rather than a rhetorical
point. I am no expert. I was a butcher's delivery boy when I was a kid,
so I can also vouch for the ease with which a band saw can cut through
animal parts.

My Dad had a radial arm saw as his principal shop tool when I was
growing up. Great for crosscutting; not as convenient for ripping, but
it was what he had and was used for both. I can't imagine an easier way
to cut dadoes for shelving.

Are they really more dangerous in some way?

Crosscutting on a RAS isn't too bad, but I've had mine climb on me. The real
danger is in rips, something that's difficult to do on a miter saw. ;-)

On Dec 7, 9:21*am, godsword wrote:
On 12/7/2011 6:09 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:









On 12/2/2011 10:47 PM, godsword wrote:
Those old saws took off many a finger and hand. And it only happens to
those who are careful ????? Can't happen to them they say. My son
thought that before he lost his finger to the blade. Scared me every
time that I got my hand within 10 feet of that spinning blade.

While I have no quarrel with the ability of a radial arm saw to cause
injury, how is it different from say, a miter saw or table saw in that
respect? I ask this as an actual question, rather than a rhetorical
point. I am no expert. I was a butcher's delivery boy when I was a kid,
so I can also vouch for the ease with which a band saw can cut through
animal parts.

My Dad had a radial arm saw as his principal shop tool when I was
growing up. Great for crosscutting; not as convenient for ripping, but
it was what he had and was used for both. I can't imagine an easier way
to cut dadoes for shelving.

Are they really more dangerous in some way?

The difference that I see is this. *On a Table saw, you have to push the
wood into the blade in order to cut, it has a tendency to throw the wood
out and back. While the Radial Arm saw has the tendency to pull the wood
into it, thus one has to Hold the saw back so that the blade does not
cut too fast and climb over the top of the wood being cut.

This tendency works the same way with our hands. On a table saw there is
only a very small amount of blade available for cutting, assuming that
the blade is only set high enough to just cut the thickness of what you
are cutting. The Radial arm saw has at least one half of the blade
available to cut at any, and all thicknesses of wood being cut.

With your arm dead center in the line of cut.