Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
My shop is one stall in the garage and it's getting chilly here in
Wisconsin, just as I'm about ready to finish my rolling kitchen cart. I plan on using a diluted oil-based poly for one of those "you can't make a mistake with this" finishes. The garage has a forced air heater and I'm not happy about letting the finish cure with a lot of air moving stuff around. So ... what's the minimum temperature at which I can safely apply this finish. Figure it's getting down to the upper 40s in the garage at night. Thanks, Larry PS: SWMBO asked me to stain this the same ugly off gray color as the kitchen cabinets. What a terrible thing to do to walnut and hard maple! |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
"Gramp's shop" wrote in message ... My shop is one stall in the garage and it's getting chilly here in Wisconsin, just as I'm about ready to finish my rolling kitchen cart. I plan on using a diluted oil-based poly for one of those "you can't make a mistake with this" finishes. The garage has a forced air heater and I'm not happy about letting the finish cure with a lot of air moving stuff around. So ... what's the minimum temperature at which I can safely apply this finish. Figure it's getting down to the upper 40s in the garage at night. Thanks, Larry PS: SWMBO asked me to stain this the same ugly off gray color as the kitchen cabinets. What a terrible thing to do to walnut and hard maple! The application temperature range is usually printed on the can. If not check the manufacturers website. Art PS. Keep that cart for your shop and make her one out of plywood! |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Nov 14, 6:25*pm, Gramp's shop wrote:
My shop is one stall in the garage and it's getting chilly here in Wisconsin, just as I'm about ready to finish my rolling kitchen cart. *I plan on using a diluted oil-based poly for one of those "you can't make a mistake with this" finishes. *The garage has a forced air heater and I'm not happy about letting the finish cure with a lot of air moving stuff around. So ... what's the minimum temperature at which I can safely apply this finish. *Figure it's getting down to the upper 40s in the garage at night. Thanks, Larry PS: SWMBO asked me to stain this the same ugly off gray color as the kitchen cabinets. *What a terrible thing to do to walnut and hard maple! Cut it 50% with mineral spirits. Wipe on, let sit 5 minutes, wipe back until dry to the touch. Rub with steel wool, tack, and repeat. It'll take twice as many coats, but dust won't be a problem. It'll also look and feel incredible. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
"Gramp's shop" wrote: My shop is one stall in the garage and it's getting chilly here in Wisconsin, just as I'm about ready to finish my rolling kitchen cart. I plan on using a diluted oil-based poly for one of those "you can't make a mistake with this" finishes. The garage has a forced air heater and I'm not happy about letting the finish cure with a lot of air moving stuff around. So ... what's the minimum temperature at which I can safely apply this finish. Figure it's getting down to the upper 40s in the garage at night. Thanks, Larry PS: SWMBO asked me to stain this the same ugly off gray color as the kitchen cabinets. What a terrible thing to do to walnut and hard maple! -------------------------------------- Been to the movie, you can't get there from here. Just another reason I left Ohio for SoCal. Wait till spring and at least 60F minimum temps. BTW, as long as you are going to paint/stain it ugly, build another cart using MDF and poplar. Have fun. Lew |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Nov 14, 3:59*pm, Father Haskell wrote:
On Nov 14, 6:25*pm, Gramp's shop wrote: My shop is one stall in the garage and it's getting chilly here in Wisconsin, just as I'm about ready to finish my rolling kitchen cart. *I plan on using a diluted oil-based poly for one of those "you can't make a mistake with this" finishes. *The garage has a forced air heater and I'm not happy about letting the finish cure with a lot of air moving stuff around. So ... what's the minimum temperature at which I can safely apply this finish. *Figure it's getting down to the upper 40s in the garage at night. Thanks, Larry PS: SWMBO asked me to stain this the same ugly off gray color as the kitchen cabinets. *What a terrible thing to do to walnut and hard maple! Cut it 50% with mineral spirits. Wipe on, let sit 5 minutes, wipe back until dry to the touch. *Rub with steel wool, tack, and repeat. It'll take twice as many coats, but dust won't be a problem. It'll also look and feel incredible.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - What!!! Rubbing wet poly with steel wool? Good luck with that. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
So ... what's the minimum temperature at which I can safely apply this
finish. *Figure it's getting down to the upper 40s in the garage at night. Thanks, Larry PS: SWMBO asked me to stain this the same ugly off gray color as the kitchen cabinets. *What a terrible thing to do to walnut and hard maple! If it is gettimg below about 55 your finish will stall in the drying process and maybe never dry correctly. Poly takes a good 12 hours even when using a wiping method. However, after a few hours it will be dry enough to bring inside or run a heater. Wiping poly will only catch nibs for an hour or two at most. It will skin over pretty quick but isn't actually dry. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Mon, 14 Nov 2011 15:59:39 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
wrote: On Nov 14, 6:25*pm, Gramp's shop wrote: My shop is one stall in the garage and it's getting chilly here in Wisconsin, just as I'm about ready to finish my rolling kitchen cart. *I plan on using a diluted oil-based poly for one of those "you can't make a mistake with this" finishes. *The garage has a forced air heater and I'm not happy about letting the finish cure with a lot of air moving stuff around. So ... what's the minimum temperature at which I can safely apply this finish. *Figure it's getting down to the upper 40s in the garage at night. Thanks, Larry PS: SWMBO asked me to stain this the same ugly off gray color as the kitchen cabinets. *What a terrible thing to do to walnut and hard maple! Cut it 50% with mineral spirits. Wipe on, let sit 5 minutes, wipe back until dry to the touch. Rub with steel wool, tack, and repeat. It'll take twice as many coats, but dust won't be a problem. It'll also look and feel incredible. Hayseuss Crisco! You guys -deserve- your poly. sigh -- Stain and poly are their own punishment. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
Hayseuss Crisco! *You guys -deserve- your poly. *sigh -- Stain and poly are their own punishment.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Sorry you are so closed minded. One can extract the unique value from a whole host of techniques and materials if they have any talent. There is more to life than pure tung oil on hand planed and scraped unstained cherry. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Tue, 15 Nov 2011 10:17:12 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
wrote: Hayseuss Crisco! *You guys -deserve- your poly. *sigh -- Stain and poly are their own punishment.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Sorry you are so closed minded. One can extract the unique value from a whole host of techniques and materials if they have any talent. There is more to life than pure tung oil on hand planed and scraped unstained cherry. That's OK. I'm leaving all that pine and Minwhacked and plastic to youse guys. Enjoy! -- The problem with borrowing money from China is that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again. --Steve Bridges as Obama |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Nov 14, 5:25 pm, Gramp's shop wrote:
My shop is one stall in the garage and it's getting chilly here in Wisconsin, just as I'm about ready to finish my rolling kitchen cart. I plan on using a diluted oil-based poly for one of those "you can't make a mistake with this" finishes. The garage has a forced air heater and I'm not happy about letting the finish cure with a lot of air moving stuff around. Don't ever finish when you have a forced air heater around. They will draw fumes into the heater and (think this through....) and run the volatile gases over the orange hot elements. That alone isn't necessarily enough to blow yourself up, and many an idiot has done that successfully for years. No doubt, we will hear that many here swear by it. Heat your shop to about 80 or so. Let the air settle, say 20 minutes (just a WAG). Apply your finish rapidly and evenly. Since it is a cart, make sure you have the wheels on the project, and then simply roll it inside a heater room and let it dry. You can go back and forth as much as you want by allowing your shop to heat properly. Start early in the morning (still using a wipe finish here), allot proper dry time for recoat, and you should put coat #2 on in early afternoon. It should allow you enough time to put on a final coat in the evening as well. Work quickly and carefully, and use your leaf blower to blow off the path to the house to keep dust to a minimum. If you catch a bit on the legs, knock it down with some 400 about 14 - 21 days after your last coat. Where there is a will, there is certainly a way my friend. When I do finishing on a job, I look for solutions, and they are usually at hand. I can't tell my clients "see you next spring!". If you second/third coat 6 - 8 hours after the previous coat, you DO NOT need to sand. Skip that step as an unnecessary waste of time, giving myou chances to screw up your surface than you should take. If you do need to work out a nib, don't ever use steel wool. Steel wool (unless it is the Liberon stuff) will break apart on your finish, it gives an irregular sanding pattern based solely on pressure points, and will leave behind the waste oil they use to keep it from rusting. The wool itself and the oils left behind can completely ruin your finish. Use high quality/high grit sandpaper to smooth out your surfaces; no wool. Most people learn their finishing by folklore, not by experience or research. With a squint of research or by simply asking a professional, you will find we do not sand between coats unless the magic recoat time window passed or a bug has landed in the middle of the wet coat. PS: SWMBO asked me to stain this the same ugly off gray color as the kitchen cabinets. What a terrible thing to do to walnut and hard maple! I'm hearing you loud and clear, Larry. It's painful, but if the Queen isn't happy, the King doesn't stand a chance. We do what we have to do, eh? I can't tell you how many cabinets I painted "French White" when it was the rage. They looked nice when finished, but I had difficulty painting maple and other hard woods for clients. But, they paid me; I got over it. Most of the men folk didn't like it, and all of the women did. ( You remember who you are building this cart for, right? ;^) ) If the LOML wants something painted, I will certainly try to talk her out of it, but not too vigorously. In the interest of domestic tranquility, I have decided that paint can indeed be good. Robert |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Tue, 15 Nov 2011 20:56:33 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: I can't tell you how many cabinets I painted "French White" when it was the rage. They looked nice when finished, but I had difficulty painting maple and other hard woods for clients. But, they paid me; I got over it. Most of the men folk didn't like it, and all of the women did. ( You remember who you are building this cart for, right? ;^) ) I hope you at least -sealed- the project with shellac or lacquer before painting to allow a later reversal, when they came to their senses or the next owner bought it. If the LOML wants something painted, I will certainly try to talk her out of it, but not too vigorously. In the interest of domestic tranquility, I have decided that paint can indeed be good. Condolences on your smart idea to go along. -- The problem with borrowing money from China is that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again. --Steve Bridges as Obama |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Nov 16, 8:12*am, Larry Jaques
wrote: I hope you at least -sealed- the project with shellac or lacquer before painting to allow a later reversal, when they came to their senses or the next owner bought it. Nope. Don't give a crap anymore. I don't have your energy and enthusiasm to beat the snot out of someone that I want to sell a job to these days. I don't stand on principle unless it is mine. My ego and checkbook learned long ago that the customer should get what they want, and my role is as a service provider. I am there to facilitate their wishes, not push my agenda. Besides, how many people have refinished a kitchen full of cabinets? Not repainting, NOT putting a new top coat of clear on the wood, NOT a scuff sand then top coat, but a real honest stripping to bare wood and a real refinish? Have you? Have you ever taken a kitchen full of cabinets apart, **chemically stripped all components to bare wood**, cleaned every nook and cranny with little brass brushes, sanded out all the imperfections and started over with your finishing routine? Conditioned and colored the stained and discolored areas, filled in the tiny checks and cracks, worked over the wear marks cabinets get so you can make the cabinets look as close to new as possibile? Nonsense. Unless you are a weekend warrior with plenty of time on your hands OR you are happy with a crappy end product, refinishing of kitchen cabinets isn't practical. It is almost completely impractical for a professional finisher. I don't mind stripping a large vanity, or certain piece, but a whole kitchen full of cabinets with all the drawers, doors, rails and stiles that have to be stripped in place, and all the protective precautions you must have when working in someone's house? Seriously? It is a much better value to replace doors, and paint or veneer the stiles and rails once you pass just a few doors. I am not the ancient craftsman that toils away in the darkness, eschewing powered tools, using ancient methods to further my art. Nope. I am a businessman. I left the world of the proud, ancient craftsman that did things his way (only) years ago. I learned in the mid seventies how to build cabinets and fixtures, then large entry doors, and later learned framing, deck building, etc. I left the world of the ancient craftsman of doing things my way when I got tired of starving. After all, clients do have choices, and never more true than today, choices are often price driven. I buy cabinets these days from an old outfit I like, and he will sell me doors only if I want to change existing. Outside of a vanity, a replacement or utility cabinet, I haven't made a cabinet for client in years. Although I will remake or rebuild door jams, I buy prehung doors if possible, and get anything I need for a job as close to finished as I can before I buy it. At one time I was very proud of my skill set, but just don't care anymore. The ugly reality of keeping a business afloat for almost 30 years has taught me that the world doesn't work the way I want it to, and I need to do what I need to on any given day to get work to keep the ball rolling. I take pride in my work, but more as doing a good job over anything specific. My business model is simple. I give a competitive bid for work I know I can warrant with my 100% no-**** warranty. That's it. I am not their taste buds, nor do I try to predict the future of their home for them. I don't care if someone wants me to paint their cabinets pink, or pee yellow. I am not their taste buds. Nor do I care about someone that might buy the house in future (and their thoughts on the current client's work) or anyone's nieces, nephews, next door neighbors, or any other peanut gallery. They guy that signs the check has my undivided attention and efforts. If the LOML wants something painted, I will certainly try to talk her out of it, but not too vigorously. *In the interest of domestic tranquility, I have decided that paint can indeed be good. Condolences on your smart idea to go along. No condolences needed. I **like** getting along, and my partner in life is certainly as strong willed as I am. I don't really give a crap about paint or clear finishes enough to cause friction between me and mine. We are about 50/50 on these things, so that is close enough for me. If I am sitting on the back porch with a cold beer and cigar while smoking a brisket, knowing that all is well inside, I couldn't care less about paint/stain/urethane etc. But, that's just me. Robert |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
|
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
wrote in message ... On Nov 16, 8:12 am, Larry Jaques wrote: I hope you at least -sealed- the project with shellac or lacquer before painting to allow a later reversal, when they came to their senses or the next owner bought it. Nope. Don't give a crap anymore. I don't have your energy and enthusiasm to beat the snot out of someone that I want to sell a job to these days. I don't stand on principle unless it is mine. My ego and checkbook learned long ago that the customer should get what they want, and my role is as a service provider. I am there to facilitate their wishes, not push my agenda. Besides, how many people have refinished a kitchen full of cabinets? Not repainting, NOT putting a new top coat of clear on the wood, NOT a scuff sand then top coat, but a real honest stripping to bare wood and a real refinish? Have you? Have you ever taken a kitchen full of cabinets apart, **chemically stripped all components to bare wood**, cleaned every nook and cranny with little brass brushes, sanded out all the imperfections and started over with your finishing routine? Conditioned and colored the stained and discolored areas, filled in the tiny checks and cracks, worked over the wear marks cabinets get so you can make the cabinets look as close to new as possibile? Nonsense. Unless you are a weekend warrior with plenty of time on your hands OR you are happy with a crappy end product, refinishing of kitchen cabinets isn't practical. It is almost completely impractical for a professional finisher. I don't mind stripping a large vanity, or certain piece, but a whole kitchen full of cabinets with all the drawers, doors, rails and stiles that have to be stripped in place, and all the protective precautions you must have when working in someone's house? Seriously? It is a much better value to replace doors, and paint or veneer the stiles and rails once you pass just a few doors. I am not the ancient craftsman that toils away in the darkness, eschewing powered tools, using ancient methods to further my art. Nope. I am a businessman. I left the world of the proud, ancient craftsman that did things his way (only) years ago. I learned in the mid seventies how to build cabinets and fixtures, then large entry doors, and later learned framing, deck building, etc. I left the world of the ancient craftsman of doing things my way when I got tired of starving. After all, clients do have choices, and never more true than today, choices are often price driven. I buy cabinets these days from an old outfit I like, and he will sell me doors only if I want to change existing. Outside of a vanity, a replacement or utility cabinet, I haven't made a cabinet for client in years. Although I will remake or rebuild door jams, I buy prehung doors if possible, and get anything I need for a job as close to finished as I can before I buy it. At one time I was very proud of my skill set, but just don't care anymore. The ugly reality of keeping a business afloat for almost 30 years has taught me that the world doesn't work the way I want it to, and I need to do what I need to on any given day to get work to keep the ball rolling. I take pride in my work, but more as doing a good job over anything specific. My business model is simple. I give a competitive bid for work I know I can warrant with my 100% no-**** warranty. That's it. I am not their taste buds, nor do I try to predict the future of their home for them. I don't care if someone wants me to paint their cabinets pink, or pee yellow. I am not their taste buds. Nor do I care about someone that might buy the house in future (and their thoughts on the current client's work) or anyone's nieces, nephews, next door neighbors, or any other peanut gallery. They guy that signs the check has my undivided attention and efforts. If the LOML wants something painted, I will certainly try to talk her out of it, but not too vigorously. In the interest of domestic tranquility, I have decided that paint can indeed be good. Condolences on your smart idea to go along. No condolences needed. I **like** getting along, and my partner in life is certainly as strong willed as I am. I don't really give a crap about paint or clear finishes enough to cause friction between me and mine. We are about 50/50 on these things, so that is close enough for me. If I am sitting on the back porch with a cold beer and cigar while smoking a brisket, knowing that all is well inside, I couldn't care less about paint/stain/urethane etc. But, that's just me. Robert Don't hold back Robert, tell us how you really feel!! ;-) Right on brother, I know exactly of what you speak. I can't tell you the number of times I have had to "make do" and have it work out just fine. And I have done a whole bunch of jobs for far less than some starry eyed purists. The customer is always right. It is just that simple. That what contracts are for. If the customer is unhappy, you just pull out the contract. But if the customer wants a room done in hot pink, you do it in hot pink. Besides, most customers won't admit they made a mistake anyway. Give them what they want. You will get in less trouble that way and you won't lose the job. The only exception to that rule is if it becomes a safety issue. I won't do something that is dangerous. Not only because I wouldn't do such a thing, but for liability issues. But taste??? People like all kinds of things. Strange things. Bizarre things. AND THEY PAY MONEY to have somebody make these weird items for them! One thing I do though, is try to steer people towards simpler solutions if possible. I just let them know if they want that insanely complicated finish on the project, it will double the price. That usually calms them down and makes my life simpler. But I will do what they want if they me pay enough. I remember the wise words of an old timer who told me this, "There are two kinds of workers at what I do. There are working craftsman and there are starving artists. I like to eat. So you can guess which one I am". |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
wrote:
Don't ever finish when you have a forced air heater around. They will draw fumes into the heater and (think this through....) and run the volatile gases over the orange hot elements. That alone isn't necessarily enough to blow yourself up, and many an idiot has done that successfully for years. No doubt, we will hear that many here swear by it. Heat your shop to about 80 or so. Let the air settle, say 20 minutes (just a WAG). Apply your finish rapidly and evenly. Since it is a cart, make sure you have the wheels on the project, and then simply roll it inside a heater room and let it dry. You can go back and forth as much as you want by allowing your shop to heat properly. Start early in the morning (still using a wipe finish here), allot proper dry time for recoat, and you should put coat #2 on in early afternoon. It should allow you enough time to put on a final coat in the evening as well. Work quickly and carefully, and use your leaf blower to blow off the path to the house to keep dust to a minimum. If you catch a bit on the legs, knock it down with some 400 about 14 - 21 days after your last coat. Where there is a will, there is certainly a way my friend. When I do finishing on a job, I look for solutions, and they are usually at hand. I can't tell my clients "see you next spring!". If you second/third coat 6 - 8 hours after the previous coat, you DO NOT need to sand. Skip that step as an unnecessary waste of time, giving myou chances to screw up your surface than you should take. If you do need to work out a nib, don't ever use steel wool. Steel wool (unless it is the Liberon stuff) will break apart on your finish, it gives an irregular sanding pattern based solely on pressure points, and will leave behind the waste oil they use to keep it from rusting. The wool itself and the oils left behind can completely ruin your finish. Use high quality/high grit sandpaper to smooth out your surfaces; no wool. Most people learn their finishing by folklore, not by experience or research. With a squint of research or by simply asking a professional, you will find we do not sand between coats unless the magic recoat time window passed or a bug has landed in the middle of the wet coat. ------------------------------------- Only comment I'll make is that winter temps in Wisconsin are considerably different than they are in San Antonio, at some 6-800 miles lower latitude. Don't think you will be able to achieve your described thermal profile after a week of ZERO temps typical several times during WI winters. Lew |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Nov 16, 1:24*pm, "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast
dot net wrote: Don't hold back Robert, tell us how you really feel!! *;-) You know Lee, sometimes I just get tongue tied. Yup, that's it. Right on brother, I know exactly of what you speak. *I can't tell you the number of times I have had to "make do" and have it work out just fine. *And I have done a whole bunch of jobs for far less than some starry eyed purists. Amen. And in this awful repair/maintenance only economy for us smaller contractors, I still have work. I still don't advertise. (Wait... is that why I am at home in the early afternoon mid week screwing around on the computer.... damnit!!) My clients call me for practical solutions and in this economy aren't interested in my artistic opinions. I have picked out many a paint color and surface material for kitchens and such, but only when directly asked to do so. The customer is always right. *It is just that simple. *That what contracts are for. *If the customer is unhappy, you just pull out the contract. I remember the wise words of an old timer who told me this, "There are two kinds of workers at what I do. *There are working craftsman and there are starving artists. *I like to eat. *So you can guess which one I am". Yes, yes, yes. I WANTED to be that craftsman, that guy that channeled Duncan Phyfe and his lot, but mortgage payments, tool payments, truck payments, food, utilities and employee payroll really got in the way. Continuing education about contract law, new estimating techniques, new product knowledge, current installation techniques for new products, keeping up with the current market pricing, finding good help, and on an on plagued me until I had to make a decision. Be a hand forever, a starving artist (hopefully to be recognized before my death), or have a life that included something that I was once quite fond of doing. I do indeed have a couple of guys that stand so hard on their principles that it is their way or no way. They call me for work from time to time, but I don't have a lot of work that they will find appealing. I certainly don't want them to compromise their values for me. Let 'em starve. Most of those stalwart independents have wives with good incomes anyway. I don't. I remember the wise words of an old timer who told me this, "There are two kinds of workers at what I do. There are working craftsman and there are starving artists. I like to eat. So you can guess which one I am". I never got the whole picture, even when it was presented to me in the late 70s. A great friend of mine was a very successful engineer. He loved to draw, and do the engineering work. He also liked to go out to the jobs and inspect (yay! out of the office!) them, and have lunch with his buddies. As his firm grew, he was less and less happy. He literally made more money than he could spend, and I couldn't believe he was so unhappy. He told me then, something I didn't fathom. He told me that if I started a company (doing all things carpentry) and it became successful, I would find myself doing 10% or less carpentry, and the rest was simply taking care of the business. No kidding. Quarterly reports, 1099s, immigration law compliance, scheduling jobs/labor/materials, franchise requirements for the state, contract law, estimating jobs, selling jobs, quality control, accounts payable, accounts receivable, promoting the company, company money management, client relations, and on an on and on... I just didn't understand what he was saying so long ago. I sure do now. So seriously.... how much could I care if I wanted to about ** the next guy that might buy a house** an the treatment of wood the current owners pay for? I simply don't care at all. And since I am never the cheapest guy they call, they can find someone that can do the job they want at less cost with a simple phone call. How stupid would it be to intentionally put myself in that position? I always remember the old addage "Pride goeth before the fall". Even though I snipped it, I read your whole post Lee and completely agree with all of it. Robert |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On 11/16/2011 2:07 PM, wrote:
On Nov 16, 1:24 pm, "Lee Michaels"leemichaels*nadaspam*wrote Saved then both ... might have steal'em one of these days. -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
Temp minimums for applying poly
On Wed, 16 Nov 2011 10:41:54 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: On Nov 16, 8:12*am, Larry Jaques wrote: I hope you at least -sealed- the project with shellac or lacquer before painting to allow a later reversal, when they came to their senses or the next owner bought it. Nope. Don't give a crap anymore. I don't have your energy and enthusiasm to beat the snot out of someone that I want to sell a job to these days. I don't stand on principle unless it is mine. My ego and checkbook learned long ago that the customer should get what they want, and my role is as a service provider. I am there to facilitate their wishes, not push my agenda. Yeah, I hear you. I'd just add the price of shellac as a primer in the original cost of the item. Besides, how many people have refinished a kitchen full of cabinets? Not repainting, NOT putting a new top coat of clear on the wood, NOT a scuff sand then top coat, but a real honest stripping to bare wood and a real refinish? Have you? Have you ever taken a kitchen full of cabinets apart, **chemically stripped all components to bare wood**, cleaned every nook and cranny with little brass brushes, sanded out all the imperfections and started over with your finishing routine? Conditioned and colored the stained and discolored areas, filled in the tiny checks and cracks, worked over the wear marks cabinets get so you can make the cabinets look as close to new as possibile? I've seen one done like that and it looked good. 'Twas an old geezer with eons of time on his hands. But, no, I haven't done it. Nonsense. Unless you are a weekend warrior with plenty of time on your hands OR you are happy with a crappy end product, refinishing of kitchen cabinets isn't practical. It is almost completely impractical for a professional finisher. I don't mind stripping a large vanity, or certain piece, but a whole kitchen full of cabinets with all the drawers, doors, rails and stiles that have to be stripped in place, and all the protective precautions you must have when working in someone's house? Seriously? I thought this was a single cabinet, not a kitchen full of 'em. It is a much better value to replace doors, and paint or veneer the stiles and rails once you pass just a few doors. I am not the ancient craftsman that toils away in the darkness, eschewing powered tools, using ancient methods to further my art. We use that newfangled 'lectricity nowadays, boy. Nope. I am a businessman. I left the world of the proud, ancient craftsman that did things his way (only) years ago. I learned in the mid seventies how to build cabinets and fixtures, then large entry doors, and later learned framing, deck building, etc. I left the world of the ancient craftsman of doing things my way when I got tired of starving. After all, clients do have choices, and never more true than today, choices are often price driven. I buy cabinets these days from an old outfit I like, and he will sell me doors only if I want to change existing. Outside of a vanity, a replacement or utility cabinet, I haven't made a cabinet for client in years. Although I will remake or rebuild door jams, I buy prehung doors if possible, and get anything I need for a job as close to finished as I can before I buy it. Ditto. At one time I was very proud of my skill set, but just don't care anymore. The ugly reality of keeping a business afloat for almost 30 years has taught me that the world doesn't work the way I want it to, and I need to do what I need to on any given day to get work to keep the ball rolling. I take pride in my work, but more as doing a good job over anything specific. Grok that. My business model is simple. I give a competitive bid for work I know I can warrant with my 100% no-**** warranty. That's it. I am not their taste buds, nor do I try to predict the future of their home for them. I don't care if someone wants me to paint their cabinets pink, or pee yellow. I am not their taste buds. Nor do I care about someone that might buy the house in future (and their thoughts on the current client's work) or anyone's nieces, nephews, next door neighbors, or any other peanut gallery. They guy that signs the check has my undivided attention and efforts. If the LOML wants something painted, I will certainly try to talk her out of it, but not too vigorously. *In the interest of domestic tranquility, I have decided that paint can indeed be good. Condolences on your smart idea to go along. No condolences needed. I **like** getting along, and my partner in life is certainly as strong willed as I am. I don't really give a crap about paint or clear finishes enough to cause friction between me and mine. We are about 50/50 on these things, so that is close enough for me. If I am sitting on the back porch with a cold beer and cigar while smoking a brisket, knowing that all is well inside, I couldn't care less about paint/stain/urethane etc. But, that's just me. Well, originally I was looking for a yes or no answer, but... snort -- Most powerful is he who has himself in his own power. -- Seneca |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Legal minimums | UK diy | |||
help! applying semi-gloss poly onto floor... | Woodworking | |||
IC's for Sale No Minimums | Electronics | |||
WTD: 2sk2129 power MOSFET or equiv. (no minimums) | Electronics Repair | |||
Designing a circuit to control heater output temp depending on temp of an input | Electronics |