Don't.... (IMHO) If you have the budget for even a used quality saw,
pass on the Ryobi. I had one (it was a BT3000 IIRC) and it was nothing
but a PIA. Aluminum table meant no magnetic accessories, no miter slot,
the blade raising mechanism broke. And I was only a casual/weekend
user. If I could do it again, I'd go with a contractor style saw, if
the budget was tight. I now have a Unisaw and am very satisfied.
Mark L.

Dragon Breath wrote:

I agree with Mark.

I have a Unisaw. My father has the Ryobi. While I still believe the Ryobi
is the best saw you can buy for the price, it is a much less than adequate
saw. The Ryobi is $300. For $600 you can get a new contractor style saw.
While not up to the standards of a Unisaw, a contractor saw is a very fine
saw. It will stay square and you can get accessories for it.

I would look at Delta, Jet or even the Ridgid contractor saw that Home Depot
sells.

If you pay $600 instead of $300, you'll have a saw you can use for many,
many years that you won't be cussing at.

My father now wishes he had listened to me and spent a little more money up
front.

Have fun with your search!

Rob

"Mark L." wrote in message
gy.com...
Don't.... (IMHO) If you have the budget for even a used quality saw,
pass on the Ryobi. I had one (it was a BT3000 IIRC) and it was nothing
but a PIA. Aluminum table meant no magnetic accessories, no miter slot,
the blade raising mechanism broke. And I was only a casual/weekend
user. If I could do it again, I'd go with a contractor style saw, if
the budget was tight. I now have a Unisaw and am very satisfied.
Mark L.

Dragon Breath wrote:

In article ,
says...


Chack out http://www.bt3central.com for the full scoop. I've had one
for a little over 4 years, and for the money, it can't be beat.

In article om,
says...
Don't.... (IMHO) If you have the budget for even a used quality saw,
pass on the Ryobi. I had one (it was a BT3000 IIRC) and it was nothing
but a PIA. Aluminum table meant no magnetic accessories, no miter slot,
the blade raising mechanism broke. And I was only a casual/weekend
user. If I could do it again, I'd go with a contractor style saw, if
the budget was tight. I now have a Unisaw and am very satisfied.
Mark L.

Dragon Breath wrote:



Aluminum also means no rusting, which I consider a greater plus than a
lack of magnetism. also, they are having a deal now where you get a
free accessory kit with purchase. This gives you the miter slots. I
have the slots, and to be honest, I never use them for anything but
feather boards. The sliding table is just too useful.

Check out the Grizzly G0444.


"kenR" wrote in message
m...
In article ,
says...


Chack out http://www.bt3central.com for the full scoop. I've had one
for a little over 4 years, and for the money, it can't be beat.

I've had my BT3K for several years, and it's done everything I've asked of
it. However, I know not to ask it to do something it can't, so I'm not sure
that's an endorsement. There are too many compromises in the design of the
Ryobi saws, even though the neat features are very neat. You trade mass,
adjustability, accessories, and power for a few dollars. It ain't worth it.

If I was in the market for a replacement saw, I wouldn't even consider the
Ryobi. I'd be looking at Jet, Powermatic, Delta, and Grizzly (not
necessarily in that order).

Kevin
--
=====
"Dragon Breath" wrote in message
...

I've got one and it works just great. I have had no problems at all except
for a minor glitch that hung up the sliding miter (mitre?) table but a file
took care of that. The only problem (IMHO) is that it is underpowered for
thicker pieces of hardwoods.

For the money, yeah, it's a good saw. But if you've got $600-700 to put
into one, get something more powerful.

Agkistrodon.

On Fri, 2 Jul 2004 09:29:06 -0400, "Kevin Singleton"
wrote:

It's a super hobby toy, but not "industrial". It works, so long as
you don't overdo it. It might last a long time, but not a lifetime,
if you know what I mean. I have one, and use it because it came free.

Bill.

I've had my BT3K for several years, and it's done everything I've asked of
it. However, I know not to ask it to do something it can't, so I'm not sure
that's an endorsement. There are too many compromises in the design of the
Ryobi saws, even though the neat features are very neat. You trade mass,
adjustability, accessories, and power for a few dollars. It ain't worth it.

If I was in the market for a replacement saw, I wouldn't even consider the
Ryobi. I'd be looking at Jet, Powermatic, Delta, and Grizzly (not
necessarily in that order).

Kevin

Well, if they were free, I'd have a few of them! :)

Kevin
--
=====
"Bill Rogers" wrote in message
...

It's a super hobby toy, but not "industrial". It works, so long as
you don't overdo it. It might last a long time, but not a lifetime,
if you know what I mean. I have one, and use it because it came free.

I've read the responses to date.

If you'll note, the 'For' {a couple with 'cautionary' comments}are leading
the 'Against'.

I've had my BT3000 for several years. It has done everthing I have asked it
to do. The blade that came with it was a lot better than the one I had on my
previous saw - an 8in B&D 'tabletop' that semed to be made out of tin. THAT
one helped to build my first boat.

I SPECIFICALLY went for the Ryobi BECAUES it was Aluminum. I have a big
problem with rust, plus the shop is small and everything has to be movable.

Proberly cared for {as EVERY tool should be}, and a good, sharp blade the
saw is as accurate as woodworking requires. Along with hyper-accurate saws,
this Group also frequently mentions 'wood movement'. While machining
Stainless Steel to 4 decimal places is good & will hold, will a panel/ dry
joint of wood hold 0.1 throughout 12 months of humidity changes? I know my
house doors get either 'sticky' or the latch bolts 'snug up' in summer.

YOU have to decide what YOU are going to do. Are you making 'museum quality'
furniture from exotic woods . . . get an expensive cabinet saw. Will you
have to throw the saw in the back of a truck, every day, and lug it to a
'rough carpentry' job site - get the heavy-duty Contractors saw. Just
looking for something to do a lot of different cuts & chores, using the
typical width & thickness wood, without the need for expensive or
complecated accessories - then consider the BT.

With all that said, I can only speak for the BT3000. It is my understanding
that the latest 'variation' is a bit different - some parts seem to be
'cheapened' to keep the 'price point' and for cheaper manufacturing
practices. MY BT3000 handles a 'regular' blade just fine. It now has a
CERMET blade which combines the tooth count & shape of a fine cut and the
action of a combo. I changed the circuit breaker to 20 amps, to handle the
inrush curent {the motor is rated 15 amps}. I keep it clean and occasionally
wax the top. I have the 'Slot Accessory' - mostly for 'hold downs'. I also
have the 'Router Table Panel' - mostly for balancing long pieces {I built my
Router Table}. It also has a set of Rollers for 'portability'.

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop

I love mine. No problems and no complaints whatsoever. Zips right thru
a 4x8 sheet and makes all the other cuts I need, so far anyway. I'm not
a purist like some here, and I don't have $3000 to buy a saw with
either. I actually use my tools and I buy the best I can afford. At
some point I need to buy wood toogasp. Since I'm a hobbiest etc the
above works for me. If this is your business then perhaps a more
expensive model is better.

Grandpa John

Dragon Breath wrote:

What can be said?

It's an absolutely excellent value -- as long as you know it's limits, and
plan to use it accordingly. If you want to be rough on the saw, take it to
a job site, or anything like that, it is completely the wrong saw. Some
very well known posters here have ranked on it terribly because they used it
as such, and they're absolutely right, it will not hold up like a saw
designed to do that.

If you're nice to it, take the extra time that it requires to align it
properly, and understand it's eccentrics, it's a grand little saw. It's no
Unisaw, to be certain, but it's not a bench saw that will jump off your
table when you turn it on, either.

It's got decent power, it can cut 3 9/16" deep, which no contacter saw that
I know of can, the stock rip fence stays square once aligned, and it doesn't
vibrate a bit. Once aligned -- and that is the catch -- it's immensely
accurate, and will stay that way forever, as long as you're not rough on it.
It's got a great following of users who are more than happy to help you with
any problem. It won't rust, you'll miss the machined flat top, and it's no
good for bragging rights, but what the heck?

thanks,
--randy

"Dragon Breath" wrote in message
...

If you are looking for a portable, light duty table saw, it might be ok. I had one six years ago and burned the motor up on it ripping 2x6 fir (was making base shoe moulding for a friend).

You can't readily cut sheet goods on it because it is so light...it will tip, trust me. The sliding table they provide in lieu of a miter gauge is anything but accurate. And it bogs down when cutting thicker/harder stock.

If you are on a tight budget, I recommend watching the classified ads for an older cast-iron top Craftsman then buying a decent after-market fence when you can afford it.

All said, I would not buy another Ryobi BT300 TS.

makesawdust wrote:
You can't readily cut sheet goods on it because it is so light...it
will tip, trust me.

I used to have a BT-3000 (virtually identical to the 3100, as far as I
can tell). I used it once in a while to rip 4x8 sheets of 3/4 birch ply.

I rigged up a large outfeed table, constructed a long fence extension,
used some roller stands to help support the infeed side, and got a
helper. It was a bit of work to set up, but it was possible.

The saw is very light which can be a handicap. However it is very easy to
load and take to a jobsite. The motor costs over $200 and you buy them too
often.

I have had the earlier model for 7 or 8 years. It has been a great bang for
the buck. Needs a bit of attention to keep everything aligned once in a
while. Earlier posts suggest that it is not really meant to be thrown in the
back of a pick up and taken from job site to job site. There are others more
suited to this task. . Since I own a SCMS it is used mainly for ripping now.
I think if I were starting over again and had limited space and budget I
would do it again. Cheers, JG

makesawdust wrote:

If you are looking for a portable, light duty table saw, it might be ok.
I had one six years ago and burned the motor up on it ripping 2x6 fir
(was making base shoe moulding for a friend).

You can't readily cut sheet goods on it because it is so light...it
will tip, trust me. The sliding table they provide in lieu of a miter
gauge is anything but accurate. And it bogs down when cutting
thicker/harder stock.

If you are on a tight budget, I recommend watching the classified ads
for an older cast-iron top Craftsman then buying a decent after-market
fence when you can afford it.

All said, I would not buy another Ryobi BT300 TS.

--
makesawdust

You can't readily cut sheet goods on it because it is so light...it
will tip, trust me.

I got into this discussion once with the Shopsmith people. It is so much
easier and far safer to make an accurate guide and cut sheet goods with a
circular saw that it ever is with a table saw unless it is a commercial shop
model with lots of space around it.




The sliding table they provide in lieu of a miter
gauge is anything but accurate.


I have the accessory miter gage table with slots for standard gages and it
works great I use the SMT and the miter gage in conjunction with one another
depending on what one is cutting.




And it bogs down when cutting
thicker/harder stock.


Mine cuts like butter with a sharp blade, especially the Freud that comes with
the saw.


If you are on a tight budget, I recommend watching the classified ads
for an older cast-iron top Craftsman then buying a decent after-market
fence when you can afford it.

Someof the fence systems out there cost as much as the Ryobi BT3100 and aren't
much better than the one that comes with the Ryobi.



All said, I would not buy another Ryobi BT300 TS.


Neither would I. The BT3100 is far superior.
--
makesawdust





Steve

Randy Chapman wrote
it can cut 3 9/16" deep, which no contacter saw that I know of can

You are right... my contractor saw can only cut 3 7/16" deep... and
you know that extra 1/8" makes all the difference in the world...

Seriously, I have never encountered a situation where I have run my TS
against the upper stop. Arguing that that extra 1/8" demonstrates the
BT3100 is equal to or superior to a contractor style TS is pretty
weak. Given, most contractor saws cut 3 1/8" to 3 3/8", which means
that you wont be able to crosscut that 4x4 in one pass (which is why
the 12" miter saw was invented), but I have yet to want to cut or rip
a 4x4 with my TS. How many 4x4's have you ever had to crosscut?

The bottom line is that if you can only afford $300, then you really
should consider no other TS but the BT3100. But (as you have
discovered), many people will strongly argue that the extra $250-300
you will spend to buy a contractor syle saw gets you something that is
much more versatile, and chances are high that at some point (if you
find that you like woodworking) that you will upgrade.

You run the risk when buying cheap machinery, that the limitations of
the equipment add a high level of frustration to any project, which
can seriously detract from your enjoyment, and affect the quality of
the products you produce.

I bought mine when they first came out about 13 years ago. Its still
working great. After a while I bought a second one. I don't have a shop.
Mine is stored in a shed and dragged outside to be used or tossed in a
pickup and taken to a jobsite. I am 55 years old and don't have the muscles
I used to have. I can still pick this saw up and put it in a full size 4X4
pickup by myself. Right now its on a job 30 miles away being used to slice
2 inch wood. A job it doesn't handle very well and why I have to buy motors
now and again. Mostly I use it to make face frames and drawers on site.
The saw disassembles easily and has fit into a trunk before. Sits outside
in the rain frequently. I always break down 4X8 sheets with a skill saw.
The portability of these saws matter a lot to me. When I bought these saws
there was nothing in their class. Now there might be. If portability isn't
important you should probably buy something else. I did use a contractors
saw before I bought these and I mounted it permanently into a trailer which
I pulled to the jobsite.