I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've
been asked to undertake this Friday is to install a new countertop
stove (4 burner electric jobbie). The new one is a gift to the client
from her husband to celebrate their 63rd(!) anniversary, so I'd kinda
like to do it right.

What I know so far:

1. The new cooktop is "wider" than the old one, so the opening needs
to be enlarged.
2. The countertop is "formica".

Questions:

What is the best way to cut out the existing opening without chipping
the hardtop surface? I can rig up a straight edge (I think) to guide

1. a router with a downcut spiral bit
or
2. a Fein multimaster with a fine saw blade
or
3. a Bosch jig saw with its anti-splinter insert and a fine blade
or
???

Is it best to score the surface line first (box cutter, glass cutter)?
I'm an amateur wood dorker, not a cabinet maker. I know there are some
experts out there, so any advice would be appreciated.

Regards.

Tom

email: replace *** with air

On 9/7/2011 8:25 PM, Tom wrote:
I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've
been asked to undertake this Friday is to install a new countertop
stove (4 burner electric jobbie). The new one is a gift to the client
from her husband to celebrate their 63rd(!) anniversary, so I'd kinda
like to do it right.

What I know so far:

1. The new cooktop is "wider" than the old one, so the opening needs
to be enlarged.
2. The countertop is "formica".

Questions:

What is the best way to cut out the existing opening without chipping
the hardtop surface? I can rig up a straight edge (I think) to guide

A straightedge guide isn't necessary. Every cooktop and sink I've ever
installed has a mounting flange at least a centimeter wide -- if your
cut deviates from the ideal cut line by a sixteenth of an inch, no one
but you will ever know it, as it will be hidden beneath the flange.


1. a router with a downcut spiral bit
or
2. a Fein multimaster with a fine saw blade
or
3. a Bosch jig saw with its anti-splinter insert and a fine blade
or
???

All of the above will work. If using a jig saw (aka saber saw), get a
blade that cuts on the down-stroke (most cut on the up-stroke).

It also helps to apply masking tape to the formica, centered over the
cut line: it's easier to see your cut line on masking tape than on
dark-colored formica, and the tape helps reduce splintering. Years ago,
before down-cut saber saw blades existed (or before I knew they existed,
anyway), I managed a perfectly acceptable sink cutout with an up-cut
blade and masking tape -- with masking tape and a down-cut blade the
results are very, very smooth.


Is it best to score the surface line first (box cutter, glass cutter)?

Unnecessary, and possibly harmful: it's *really* easy to slip with a box
cutter, and make a score mark where you don't want one.

On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 19:25:40 -0500, Tom wrote:

I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've
been asked to undertake this Friday is to install a new countertop
stove (4 burner electric jobbie). The new one is a gift to the client
from her husband to celebrate their 63rd(!) anniversary, so I'd kinda
like to do it right.

What I know so far:

1. The new cooktop is "wider" than the old one, so the opening needs
to be enlarged.
2. The countertop is "formica".

Questions:

What is the best way to cut out the existing opening without chipping
the hardtop surface? I can rig up a straight edge (I think) to guide

1. a router with a downcut spiral bit
or
2. a Fein multimaster with a fine saw blade

I just did one of those a couple months ago when the new stove was an
inch wider than their old one. I used a circular saw (with a nice
teflon-coated Freud blade) and guide, then the HF multifunction tool
with a plunge blade in it to finish up what the circ saw couldn't get
to. I was amazed that it had zero chipping. I usually use a circ saw
on a new, upside-down, uninstalled formica countertop, and it works
fantastically.

--
That's the thing about needs. Sometimes, when you get them met,
you don't need them anymore. -- Michael Patrick King

On Sep 7, 8:25*pm, Tom wrote:
I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've
been asked to undertake this Friday is to install a new countertop
stove (4 burner electric jobbie). The new one is a gift to the client
from her husband to celebrate their 63rd(!) anniversary, so I'd kinda
like to do it right.

What I know so far:

1. The new cooktop is "wider" than the old one, so the opening needs
to be enlarged.
2. The countertop is "formica".

Questions:

What is the best way to cut out the existing opening without chipping
the hardtop surface? I can rig up a straight edge (I think) to guide

1. a router with a downcut spiral bit
or
2. a Fein multimaster with a fine saw blade
or
3. a Bosch *jig saw with its anti-splinter insert and a fine blade
or
???

Is it best to score the surface line first (box cutter, glass cutter)?
I'm an amateur wood dorker, not a cabinet maker. I know there are some
experts out there, so any advice would be appreciated.

Regards.

Tom

email: replace *** with air

Jigsaw with a down-cut blade, made just for the job you're doing.
Don't worry about the cut being too straight, modern drop-in cooktops
have a wide flange.

CAUTION: Those down-cut jigsaw blades will try to push your saw
upwards, make sure you anticipate that by adding more than usual
pressure. If you let it go upwards, it WILL pogo-stick across the
countertop and do a LOT of damage quickly. Not a blade for the faint
of heart.

responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...ve-523396-.htm
Jasprt2 wrote:
The router is prob your best method of ensuring a clean cut the formica.
If you must use some type of a saw be sure to score the formica to prevent
and chipping beyond the cut path.



Tom wrote:


I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've
been asked to undertake this Friday is to install a new countertop
stove (4 burner electric jobbie). The new one is a gift to the client
from her husband to celebrate their 63rd(!) anniversary, so I'd kinda
like to do it right.

What I know so far:

1. The new cooktop is "wider" than the old one, so the
opening needs
to be enlarged.
2. The countertop is "formica".

Questions:

What is the best way to cut out the existing opening without chipping
the hardtop surface? I can rig up a straight edge (I think) to guide

1. a router with a downcut spiral bit
or
2. a Fein multimaster with a fine saw blade
or
3. a Bosch jig saw with its anti-splinter insert and a fine blade
or
???

Is it best to score the surface line first (box cutter, glass cutter)?
I'm an amateur wood dorker, not a cabinet maker. I know there are some
experts out there, so any advice would be appreciated.

Regards.

Tom

email: replace *** with air



-------------------------------------

On 9/7/2011 10:25 PM, Jasprt2 wrote:
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/woodwor...ve-523396-.htm
Jasprt2 wrote:
The router is prob your best method of ensuring a clean cut the formica.
If you must use some type of a saw be sure to score the formica to prevent
and chipping beyond the cut path.

Nonsense.

A saber saw with a down-cut blade produces very little chipping; even an
up-cut blade won't chip it enough to show outside the mounting flange,
and the simple expedient of putting masking tape over the cut line
eliminates most of that anyway. There is absolutely no need to score the
formica first; in fact, trying to may do more harm than good -- it's
easy to slip, and score something you didn't mean to score.

The cut is not going to be visible. It doesn't matter if it's not perfect.

Of the three options suggested by the OP, a router would be my *last*
choice because of the ocean of fine dust it will create.

On Thu, 08 Sep 2011 08:33:51 -0400, Doug Miller
Of the three options suggested by the OP, a router would be my *last*
choice because of the ocean of fine dust it will create.

Unless of course, he has a good friend with a Festool 2200 router and
dust collector. Then he's golden.

Tom wrote the following:
I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've
been asked to undertake this Friday is to install a new countertop
stove (4 burner electric jobbie). The new one is a gift to the client
from her husband to celebrate their 63rd(!) anniversary, so I'd kinda
like to do it right.

What I know so far:

1. The new cooktop is "wider" than the old one, so the opening needs
to be enlarged.
2. The countertop is "formica".

Questions:

What is the best way to cut out the existing opening without chipping
the hardtop surface? I can rig up a straight edge (I think) to guide

1. a router with a downcut spiral bit
or
2. a Fein multimaster with a fine saw blade
or
3. a Bosch jig saw with its anti-splinter insert and a fine blade
or
???

Is it best to score the surface line first (box cutter, glass cutter)?
I'm an amateur wood dorker, not a cabinet maker. I know there are some
experts out there, so any advice would be appreciated.

Regards.

Tom

email: replace *** with air


The accepted method for decades has been masking tape, a drill, and
saber saw. Lay out the cutting dimensions on the masking tape,
Drill holes at the cutout dimension corners to accept the saw blade and
to eliminate making 90º turns with the saw, then saw cut from corner to
corner. The minor chipping that may occur will be hidden by the range top.



--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Sep 7, 8:25*pm, Tom wrote:
I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've

First off - Good for you!

What is the counter made of?

Does it have an integral (post-formed or similar) back-splash that you
cannot remove?

The accuracy of the cut-out is not a concern as the replacement unit
will cover most minor "short-comings" with the "lip" provided. A new
unit SHOULD come with a template, pattern or measurement for the
required opening size (which will be smaller in both dimensions than
the outside measurements of the unit itself.

Since you are enlarging an existing opening, you MAY be able to simply
remove X-inches from each of the four sides of the existing opening.
But CHECK FIRST to see how the new unit would lay in such an opening.
It is possible that the front to back measurements of the two units
are different as regards the offset from the front edge or back splash
- crucial you know this before cutting.

Masking tape along the cut line has been suggested in cutting Formica
counters.

The router will work for much of the cut - but the router (or jig saw,
etc.) base plate size will likely prevent you from cutting close to
the back splash - especially with the counter in place. One of those
Trimmer Routers might do that part of the job for you. And, a router
will surely make a clean cut.

Look, also, for obstructions below the cut line. Especially if the old
unit fit above a cabinet sized to the old unit.

Thanks to all who responded.

Concensus seems to be the jig saw. I have some Bosch 101A0 blades (20
TPI) that appear to have a zero rake and I just bought a pack of
101BR (10 TPI) that have a downcut rake. Between the 2 I'll figure out
what seems to work best, with the masking tape as suggested. I'll set
the jig saw to the "no orbit" position (it's a Bosch) to reduce the
chance of chipout and go for it.

Regards.

Tom

On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 19:25:40 -0500, Tom wrote:

I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've
been asked to undertake this Friday is to install a new countertop
stove (4 burner electric jobbie). The new one is a gift to the client
from her husband to celebrate their 63rd(!) anniversary, so I'd kinda
like to do it right.

What I know so far:

1. The new cooktop is "wider" than the old one, so the opening needs
to be enlarged.
2. The countertop is "formica".

Questions:

What is the best way to cut out the existing opening without chipping
the hardtop surface? I can rig up a straight edge (I think) to guide

1. a router with a downcut spiral bit
or
2. a Fein multimaster with a fine saw blade
or
3. a Bosch jig saw with its anti-splinter insert and a fine blade
or
???

Is it best to score the surface line first (box cutter, glass cutter)?
I'm an amateur wood dorker, not a cabinet maker. I know there are some
experts out there, so any advice would be appreciated.

Regards.

Tom

email: replace *** with air

Good questions and suggestions. I'll have to look when I get there
tomorrow. Asking such questions of a couple of 80 year olds over the
phone is often not very fruitful.

I suspect the the Multimaster will come in use if the back-splash gets
in the way (and I'm sure it will - first corallary to Murphy's Law
"Nothing is as simple as it seems").

Thanks and best regards.

Tom

On Thu, 8 Sep 2011 07:28:56 -0700 (PDT), Hoosierpopi
wrote:

On Sep 7, 8:25*pm, Tom wrote:
I do volunteer work for some of our local seniors and the project I've

First off - Good for you!

What is the counter made of?

Does it have an integral (post-formed or similar) back-splash that you
cannot remove?

The accuracy of the cut-out is not a concern as the replacement unit
will cover most minor "short-comings" with the "lip" provided. A new
unit SHOULD come with a template, pattern or measurement for the
required opening size (which will be smaller in both dimensions than
the outside measurements of the unit itself.

Since you are enlarging an existing opening, you MAY be able to simply
remove X-inches from each of the four sides of the existing opening.
But CHECK FIRST to see how the new unit would lay in such an opening.
It is possible that the front to back measurements of the two units
are different as regards the offset from the front edge or back splash
- crucial you know this before cutting.

Masking tape along the cut line has been suggested in cutting Formica
counters.

The router will work for much of the cut - but the router (or jig saw,
etc.) base plate size will likely prevent you from cutting close to
the back splash - especially with the counter in place. One of those
Trimmer Routers might do that part of the job for you. And, a router
will surely make a clean cut.

Look, also, for obstructions below the cut line. Especially if the old
unit fit above a cabinet sized to the old unit.