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#1
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"Tuning" a bandsaw
(an F, if I recall.) Any particular octave? Half the kids in my area are wannabe guitarists. Most of their parents bought them of the tuners along with the guitar and are sitting unused - either the guitar is unused, they tune by ear, or tuning makes no difference for what they're playing ( ) Ask around and borrow one for a few days to play with. Most display the actual frequency in addition to the note. It would be a way duplicate tension once you knew what each blade was when properly tensioned, but I suspect each blade is different and would vary slightly for the cut being made. It's a novel idea, but does it fall in the 'measure with a micrometer - cut it with a chainsaw' class? Puckdropper wrote: A serious question: Some advocate a "pluck" method for tensioning the bandsaw blade. It's supposed to play a clear musical note (an F, if I recall.) I've noted that digital instrument tuners cost somewhere around $20, way less than bandsaw tension meters. Could an instrument tuner be used as a method of accurately tensioning the bandsaw blade? Puckdropper Since frequency is a function of string length and tension, and tension is the quantity you want to specify, I have have doubts about using the tone F as a goal. What Does make sense, to my ears , is that the blade should be both tight enough and loose enough to make a short ringing tone after you kick it with your fingernail. I think that indicates a "healthy" tension--however my usual disclaimer: others with more experience surely know better. Bill |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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"Tuning" a bandsaw
Joe invalid wrote in
: (an F, if I recall.) Any particular octave? Half the kids in my area are wannabe guitarists. Most of their parents bought them of the tuners along with the guitar and are sitting unused - either the guitar is unused, they tune by ear, or tuning makes no difference for what they're playing ( ) Ask around and borrow one for a few days to play with. Most display the actual frequency in addition to the note. It would be a way duplicate tension once you knew what each blade was when properly tensioned, but I suspect each blade is different and would vary slightly for the cut being made. It's a novel idea, but does it fall in the 'measure with a micrometer - cut it with a chainsaw' class? F below Middle C, I think. I've set it so it makes the sound of an F on the staff in bass clef and gotten good results. I did notice the other night that the sound was getting clear, and then muddied up somewhat and started to clear again. That's something that the flutter method seems to rely on. Puckdropper |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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"Tuning" a bandsaw
In b.com,
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com typed: Joe invalid wrote in : (an F, if I recall.) Any particular octave? Half the kids in my area are wannabe guitarists. Most of their parents bought them of the tuners along with the guitar and are sitting unused - either the guitar is unused, they tune by ear, or tuning makes no difference for what they're playing ( ) Ask around and borrow one for a few days to play with. Most display the actual frequency in addition to the note. It would be a way duplicate tension once you knew what each blade was when properly tensioned, but I suspect each blade is different and would vary slightly for the cut being made. It's a novel idea, but does it fall in the 'measure with a micrometer - cut it with a chainsaw' class? F below Middle C, I think. I've set it so it makes the sound of an F on the staff in bass clef and gotten good results. I did notice the other night that the sound was getting clear, and then muddied up somewhat and started to clear again. That's something that the flutter method seems to rely on. Puckdropper Those are rules of thumb but they all vary dependng on blade length, distance between wheels where you plunk it, and several other things like belt age, stretched factor and stability of the wheels, the drive wheel ini particular and of course wear on the wheel rubber itself. A belt tensioner is handy, but checking the deflection of the belt at the proper point will bring you right to spec nearly every time. There is no way they will all twang at the same frequency when they are properly set up. Tryng to treat the blade like a piano wire is silly and would work on only that one particular machine if it worked at all. Overtensioning is a chief reason for premature blade breakages. HTH, Twayne` |
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