I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4" maple
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with imperfections
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler to
"fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much time to
redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's better/easier?
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 15 May 2011 16:15:48 GMT, Han wrote:

I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4" maple
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with imperfections
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler to
"fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much time to
redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

To start, what were you doing beltsanding the poor veneer in the first
place?

Next time, don't use power and don't use anything grittier than 320 on
veneer. (24grit boulder paper & belt sandahs are right outta there.)

banding gaps, I use a handy Stanley #4-1/2 iron and slide it flat
across the shelf at a 45 degree angle to the banding. This will cut
the banding flush with the shelf. Now wipe/brush/spray on some finish.
Only then do you want to sand, and then do it delicately. The finish
will fill in the tiny gaps and hide them.


Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's better/easier?

Especially if you're going to discolor (aka: stain) the wood, filler
will never look good/never match unless you use an opaque finish.


Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

There ya go. Best bet is to either replace the veneer plywood or live
with it. I salvaged my current dining set. The oak veneer had come off
on a couple curved edges and I was amazed at how the Behlen Rock Hard
made the MDF hide against the oak veneer. You can't see it unless you
are looking for it.

--
It could probably be shown by facts and figures that there is no
distinctively native American criminal class except Congress.
-- Mark Twain

"Han" wrote in message ...

I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4" maple
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with imperfections
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler to
"fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much time to
redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

There is not a whole lot you can do here except cut it out and replace with
a solid wood strip. Be careful when sanding veneer.


As far as gaps between your banding and the plywood edge, a trick I use all
the time is to cut a relief cut on the good surface edge about 1/16" wide
and 1/16" deep. I mostly do this to draw attention away to cross cut tear
out on the end of a piece of plywood. Any way the wider appearance of a gap
that the relief provides takes you eye away from the ill fitting joint.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

"Han" wrote in message
...

I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4"
maple veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with
imperfections in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and
little gaps between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some
wood filler to "fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will
cost too much time to redo these things - spouse is getting
impatient).

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

There is not a whole lot you can do here except cut it out and replace
with a solid wood strip. Be careful when sanding veneer.


As far as gaps between your banding and the plywood edge, a trick I
use all the time is to cut a relief cut on the good surface edge about
1/16" wide and 1/16" deep. I mostly do this to draw attention away to
cross cut tear out on the end of a piece of plywood. Any way the
wider appearance of a gap that the relief provides takes you eye away
from the ill fitting joint.

Thanks, Leon. It may be too late for that now ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Han" wrote in message
...
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4" maple
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with
imperfections
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler to
"fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much time to
redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's better/easier?
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Hanuman:

The title is because you monkeyed around, man.
Who doesn't once in a while. Even Homer nods.
The Greek Homer.

I'm doubling on the dutchman insert for large areas.
Practice cutting and gluing on any similar scrap you have
first. Use sharp tools. Clamp a guide on for the cut. Cut
the patch a fraction large if you have trouble getting it
dead on, then sand.And if you drink a lot of coffee,
maybe wait until after the triumph.

Object restorers get very good at this.
There are hard compounds that
can be mixted with paints, pastels, dry
glazes and other
colorants or be layered on top of them.
When properly done, detecting this work
can be exceedingly difficult to indistinguishable
without instruments, particularly in small areas.
Should your match surface be minutely and
intricately patterned, it will be challenging.

If I could see your problem spots, that
would help but the eyesight isn't 20-3,000
miles at present. If you want to try compound
fills anywhere, I will commend a color-mixing
fan book to you by name. The structure is
simplicity: 4 parts Color X + 2 parts Z +1 part Y=!.
It will set you back some ten spots. Use it a
few times and you'll be thankful.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Han" wrote in message
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler to
"fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much time to
redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Can't suggest too much for sanding through the veneer except maybe to use
some type of filler, sand it smooth and then stain it dark enough that the
grain is not so noticeable which all but negates your use of veneered
plywood in the first place. But, I can suggest a few fixes for your banding
problems. Question, is how did you apply the edge banding and how did you
attempt to trim it flush with the veneer?

When I use edge banding, I generally prefer to use the glue on type with
carpenter's white glue, not the iron on type which has the glue already
applied and the iron heats it up so it sticks. Both types work, but I
believe the iron on type of banding is a little thicker with its preapplied
glue and that thickness is more prone to being noticeable.

For trimming, I use two methods. My preferred method is a sanding block
using 120 grit sandpaper. I simply sand the edging by hand to a uniform
edge. Admittedly it's not the fasted method, but it meets my exacting
requirements and it not as time consuming as one might think. The second
method I use is some type of razor knife or an Xacto knife if you prefer.
It's a little more prone to error depending on a slice of banding going in
an unintended direction, but it's faster than than the hand sanding route.

I've always used one of the two above methods and have never even considered
using some type of powered tool or a dedicated edge trimmer. I suppose a
router or some type of sander could do the job properly with enough practice
and set up, but when I first started out woodworking, those two power tools
were not an option for me, so I've never considered them for this purpose.

When it comes to repair, if you've used the iron type of edge banding, you
can heat it again with the iron and slice or scrape it off. It won't be near
as easy as it was to put it on, but with effort you can get it off and then
replace it. If you're really careful, you can use a router with a properly
placed edge guide and guide bearing. A second option is to fill in any gaps
with wood filler, then apply another layer of banding over the repaired one.
It won't be perfect, but it will make for a better appearance than being
able to view wood filled sections.

In article ,
Han wrote:
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4" maple
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with imperfections
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler to
"fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much time to
redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's better/easier?
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Something I've done when the mistake is of an appropriate size & shape,
is glue a small hand plane shaving over it then sand down. Of course it
can't be done for every mistake, but where it can work, it works pretty
well if you can match the grain of the shaving to the plywood.


--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

"Upscale" wrote in
:


"Han" wrote in message
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler
to "fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much
time to redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Can't suggest too much for sanding through the veneer except maybe to
use some type of filler, sand it smooth and then stain it dark enough
that the grain is not so noticeable which all but negates your use of
veneered plywood in the first place. But, I can suggest a few fixes
for your banding problems. Question, is how did you apply the edge
banding and how did you attempt to trim it flush with the veneer?

When I use edge banding, I generally prefer to use the glue on type
with carpenter's white glue, not the iron on type which has the glue
already applied and the iron heats it up so it sticks. Both types
work, but I believe the iron on type of banding is a little thicker
with its preapplied glue and that thickness is more prone to being
noticeable.

For trimming, I use two methods. My preferred method is a sanding
block using 120 grit sandpaper. I simply sand the edging by hand to a
uniform edge. Admittedly it's not the fasted method, but it meets my
exacting requirements and it not as time consuming as one might think.
The second method I use is some type of razor knife or an Xacto knife
if you prefer. It's a little more prone to error depending on a slice
of banding going in an unintended direction, but it's faster than than
the hand sanding route.

I've always used one of the two above methods and have never even
considered using some type of powered tool or a dedicated edge
trimmer. I suppose a router or some type of sander could do the job
properly with enough practice and set up, but when I first started out
woodworking, those two power tools were not an option for me, so I've
never considered them for this purpose.

When it comes to repair, if you've used the iron type of edge banding,
you can heat it again with the iron and slice or scrape it off. It
won't be near as easy as it was to put it on, but with effort you can
get it off and then replace it. If you're really careful, you can use
a router with a properly placed edge guide and guide bearing. A second
option is to fill in any gaps with wood filler, then apply another
layer of banding over the repaired one. It won't be perfect, but it
will make for a better appearance than being able to view wood filled
sections.

Thanks for the advice. In the past I have used the iron-on material.
This time I used 1/4" thick solid maple strips. Apparently in some
cases, the edges of the plywood weren't quite square, and there are a few
places with a small gap between the edge of the plywood and the maple
strip. The maple strips were wider than the thickness of the plywood,
and I used a router with a trim bit to get it level. This hasn't always
worked perfectly. Some jigs just weren't quite compatible with me. I
finally made this D-handled jig:
http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/sample/sample-18-19.pdf
I added 2 strips of self-stick UHMW to the face resting on the plywood to
make it move easier. This works now very nicely!!

I use my Festool Ro90 sander for further leveling, and that works now
very nicely too.

As mentioned before, in some places mistakes happened and I trimmed or
sanded some veneer off. I'm not going to replace the plywood, thank you,
spouse will have to overlook that, but I'd like to make it as nice as I
can. In addition, and this irks me most, there are areas where there is
a half a hair's width space several inches long between the plywood and
the 1/4" banding, as if I didn't have enough Besseys to clamp hard enough
to close those spaces. For those I think now that I'll get some Elmers
wood filler. It should be close enough in color to maple to fool spouse,
mostly. She wants the whitest, clearest possible finish for this, but I
think I'll cheat with just a bit of BLO to bring out the grain a bit. In
contrast to better half, I don't want it to look as if painted grin.

Oh, yeah, for the future I am going to abstain from this type of banding,
and switch back to iron-on stuff. Easier to repair.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

(Larry W) wrote in news:iqprq8$o01$1
@speranza.aioe.org:

Something I've done when the mistake is of an appropriate size & shape,
is glue a small hand plane shaving over it then sand down. Of course it
can't be done for every mistake, but where it can work, it works pretty
well if you can match the grain of the shaving to the plywood.


Thanks, Larry, that's a great idea!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...

"Han" wrote in message
...
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4"
maple
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with
imperfections
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler to
"fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much time to
redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's better/easier?
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Hanuman:

The title is because you monkeyed around, man.
Who doesn't once in a while. Even Homer nods.
The Greek Homer.

I'm doubling on the dutchman insert for large areas.
Practice cutting and gluing on any similar scrap you have
first. Use sharp tools. Clamp a guide on for the cut. Cut
the patch a fraction large if you have trouble getting it
dead on, then sand.And if you drink a lot of coffee,
maybe wait until after the triumph.

Object restorers get very good at this.
There are hard compounds that
can be mixted with paints, pastels, dry
glazes and other
colorants or be layered on top of them.
When properly done, detecting this work
can be exceedingly difficult to indistinguishable
without instruments, particularly in small areas.
Should your match surface be minutely and
intricately patterned, it will be challenging.

If I could see your problem spots, that
would help but the eyesight isn't 20-3,000
miles at present. If you want to try compound
fills anywhere, I will commend a color-mixing
fan book to you by name. The structure is
simplicity: 4 parts Color X + 2 parts Z +1 part Y=!.
It will set you back some ten spots. Use it a
few times and you'll be thankful.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey


OH:

A water-soluble wood filler would work
well with easily available pigments like
acrylics and pastels if you need to tint
your filler. Oil-based anything will take longer
to set up and sometimes there is an
incompatibility between the carrier
oil in a paint and that in the wood filler.

In terms of durability, direct light,
oxygen and time are opponents that
will work a change, in that order of
speed and magnitude. Harsh sunlight is
the worst. Out of the glaring, a good repair
should outlast our ability to talk about
it.

IIRC, you were going to the blond side
here? That part of the spectrum
should be doable as far
as areas that you decide to fill after
reviewing all the good contributions
you've had on the topic.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Regards,

On May 15, 11:15*am, Han wrote:
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4" maple
veneer plywood, with maple banding. *I will need to deal with imperfections
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. *I'm considering using some wood filler to
"fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much time to
redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? *Or is there something else that's better/easier? *
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Everybody seems to forget that 3M Bondo is the sloppy (and even pro)
woodworkers best friend. Get the white catalyst, as the iron oxide
filled (purplish) stuff needs lots of stain to disguise the color.
Both take stain as well as wood, and I have made some amazing 'saves'
on projects where a misstep meant discarding hours of hand work. Best
of all, the price is reasonable, the stuff will keep for years in the
beer fridge (you have one, right?), it works up in half an hour and is
very strong. Actually no downside that I can think of unless you find
the styrene odor unpleasant until it cures.
If your local Borg doesn't have it, body shop supply stores do, and
better hardware stores.

Joe

Joe wrote in
:

On May 15, 11:15*am, Han wrote:
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4"
mapl
e
veneer plywood, with maple banding. *I will need to deal with
imperfect
ions
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. *I'm considering using some wood filler
to "fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much
time to redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? *Or is there something else that's
better/easier
? *
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Everybody seems to forget that 3M Bondo is the sloppy (and even pro)
woodworkers best friend. Get the white catalyst, as the iron oxide
filled (purplish) stuff needs lots of stain to disguise the color.
Both take stain as well as wood, and I have made some amazing 'saves'
on projects where a misstep meant discarding hours of hand work. Best
of all, the price is reasonable, the stuff will keep for years in the
beer fridge (you have one, right?), it works up in half an hour and is
very strong. Actually no downside that I can think of unless you find
the styrene odor unpleasant until it cures.
If your local Borg doesn't have it, body shop supply stores do, and
better hardware stores.

Joe

Thanks, Joe!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Han" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote in
:

On May 15, 11:15 am, Han wrote:
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4"
mapl
e
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with
imperfect
ions
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler
to "fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much
time to redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's
better/easier
?
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Everybody seems to forget that 3M Bondo is the sloppy (and even pro)
woodworkers best friend. Get the white catalyst, as the iron oxide
filled (purplish) stuff needs lots of stain to disguise the color.
Both take stain as well as wood, and I have made some amazing 'saves'
on projects where a misstep meant discarding hours of hand work. Best
of all, the price is reasonable, the stuff will keep for years in the
beer fridge (you have one, right?), it works up in half an hour and is
very strong. Actually no downside that I can think of unless you find
the styrene odor unpleasant until it cures.
If your local Borg doesn't have it, body shop supply stores do, and
better hardware stores.

Joe

Thanks, Joe!


OH:

I use gallons of the Bondo repair compound. It is good stuff.
And Joe speaks testament about it being quick with the
right amount of catalyst. The resin/talc compound itself
doesn't have an interminable shelf life. Yet Joe's advice
about keeping it in a cool/cold place will do much to extend
that. There are also some marine epoxy resins that make
for an extremely hard repair at much, much greater cost. The
fastidious way to apply these also calls for liquid resin coat to
be applied first and dried to a very light tack before the
finishing epoxy mix goes on. The liquid penetrates the
bare wood, seals it and gives adhesion for the overcoat.
But it can be done a simpler way with epoxy as with
Bondo.

One bit of advice on any application worth mention is to
provide a roughened surface in the wood for your fill to
grab. On a larger area, the typical process is to roughen with
60 grit paper. Personally, I do that and use sharp tools
to carefully incise the wood across the area at two
different angles. Carefully again, I use the same small
tools to cut a groove at an inward slope around the perimeter
so the outward bottom extends under the undamaged surface.
All these efforts add precious little time to the job.
Once done, they also mechanically make the
idea of delamination only a word.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

On Tue, 17 May 2011 20:06:49 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Han" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote in
:

On May 15, 11:15 am, Han wrote:
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4"
mapl
e
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with
imperfect
ions
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler
to "fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much
time to redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's
better/easier
?
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Everybody seems to forget that 3M Bondo is the sloppy (and even pro)
woodworkers best friend. Get the white catalyst, as the iron oxide
filled (purplish) stuff needs lots of stain to disguise the color.
Both take stain as well as wood, and I have made some amazing 'saves'
on projects where a misstep meant discarding hours of hand work. Best
of all, the price is reasonable, the stuff will keep for years in the
beer fridge (you have one, right?), it works up in half an hour and is
very strong. Actually no downside that I can think of unless you find
the styrene odor unpleasant until it cures.
If your local Borg doesn't have it, body shop supply stores do, and
better hardware stores.

Joe

Thanks, Joe!


OH:

I use gallons of the Bondo repair compound. It is good stuff.
And Joe speaks testament about it being quick with the
right amount of catalyst. The resin/talc compound itself
doesn't have an interminable shelf life. Yet Joe's advice
about keeping it in a cool/cold place will do much to extend
that. There are also some marine epoxy resins that make
for an extremely hard repair at much, much greater cost. The
fastidious way to apply these also calls for liquid resin coat to
be applied first and dried to a very light tack before the
finishing epoxy mix goes on. The liquid penetrates the
bare wood, seals it and gives adhesion for the overcoat.
But it can be done a simpler way with epoxy as with
Bondo.

One bit of advice on any application worth mention is to
provide a roughened surface in the wood for your fill to
grab. On a larger area, the typical process is to roughen with
60 grit paper. Personally, I do that and use sharp tools
to carefully incise the wood across the area at two
different angles. Carefully again, I use the same small
tools to cut a groove at an inward slope around the perimeter
so the outward bottom extends under the undamaged surface.
All these efforts add precious little time to the job.
Once done, they also mechanically make the
idea of delamination only a word.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Bondo can be thinned with polester fiberglass resin
and the thinned version seems to penetrate the wood
fibers and make an idestructable bond.

basilisk

This is all good information, but may not apply in my case. I am dealing
with small hairline cracks between improperly glued banding and plywood, or
very shallow divots through the veneer. I'll report later on how I solved
after I try several of the suggestions.

Thanks for the help!!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"basilisk" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 May 2011 20:06:49 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Han" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote in
:

On May 15, 11:15 am, Han wrote:
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from 3/4"
mapl
e
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with
imperfect
ions
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little gaps
between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood filler
to "fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost too much
time to redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18537&filter=wood%20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's
better/easier
?
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Everybody seems to forget that 3M Bondo is the sloppy (and even pro)
woodworkers best friend. Get the white catalyst, as the iron oxide
filled (purplish) stuff needs lots of stain to disguise the color.
Both take stain as well as wood, and I have made some amazing 'saves'
on projects where a misstep meant discarding hours of hand work. Best
of all, the price is reasonable, the stuff will keep for years in the
beer fridge (you have one, right?), it works up in half an hour and is
very strong. Actually no downside that I can think of unless you find
the styrene odor unpleasant until it cures.
If your local Borg doesn't have it, body shop supply stores do, and
better hardware stores.

Joe

Thanks, Joe!


OH:

I use gallons of the Bondo repair compound. It is good stuff.
And Joe speaks testament about it being quick with the
right amount of catalyst. The resin/talc compound itself
doesn't have an interminable shelf life. Yet Joe's advice
about keeping it in a cool/cold place will do much to extend
that. There are also some marine epoxy resins that make
for an extremely hard repair at much, much greater cost. The
fastidious way to apply these also calls for liquid resin coat to
be applied first and dried to a very light tack before the
finishing epoxy mix goes on. The liquid penetrates the
bare wood, seals it and gives adhesion for the overcoat.
But it can be done a simpler way with epoxy as with
Bondo.

One bit of advice on any application worth mention is to
provide a roughened surface in the wood for your fill to
grab. On a larger area, the typical process is to roughen with
60 grit paper. Personally, I do that and use sharp tools
to carefully incise the wood across the area at two
different angles. Carefully again, I use the same small
tools to cut a groove at an inward slope around the perimeter
so the outward bottom extends under the undamaged surface.
All these efforts add precious little time to the job.
Once done, they also mechanically make the
idea of delamination only a word.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Bondo can be thinned with polester fiberglass resin
and the thinned version seems to penetrate the wood
fibers and make an idestructable bond.

basilisk

B:

Soaking the wood with the mixed penetrating resin
appropriate to the thicker polymer covering until
the odor quits, you can fortify incredibly rotten wood
for secondary polymer pours or putty fillings of optimal
durability. All steps in the overall process benefit
from heat and light which makes outdoor treatment time
variable, especially since two soakings are smart.

The consensus choice her is epoxy for any structural
application. As said, it's not the five and ten route. As
proved by final results, the repairs have no parallel.

There is more than one manufacturer on this front but
kick around this website:

http://www.smithandcompany.org/

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

On Wed, 18 May 2011 12:38:40 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"basilisk" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 17 May 2011 20:06:49 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Han" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote in
news:f5b06867-0867-4bc4-aab4-
:

On May 15, 11:15 am, Han wrote:
I'm making a fairly big bookcase-like entertainment center from
3/4" mapl
e
veneer plywood, with maple banding. I will need to deal with
imperfect
ions
in my technique, such as sanding through the veneer, and little
gaps between banding and plywood. I'm considering using some wood
filler to "fix" my inexperience (it's too expensive, and will cost
too much time to redo these things - spouse is getting impatient).

Is Rockler's Famowood - shown he
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...7&filter=wood%
20filler
something to consider? Or is there something else that's
better/easier
?
Or should this just show that it is "hand"made.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Everybody seems to forget that 3M Bondo is the sloppy (and even pro)
woodworkers best friend. Get the white catalyst, as the iron oxide
filled (purplish) stuff needs lots of stain to disguise the color.
Both take stain as well as wood, and I have made some amazing
'saves' on projects where a misstep meant discarding hours of hand
work. Best of all, the price is reasonable, the stuff will keep for
years in the beer fridge (you have one, right?), it works up in half
an hour and is very strong. Actually no downside that I can think of
unless you find the styrene odor unpleasant until it cures. If your
local Borg doesn't have it, body shop supply stores do, and better
hardware stores.

Joe

Thanks, Joe!


OH:

I use gallons of the Bondo repair compound. It is good stuff. And Joe
speaks testament about it being quick with the right amount of
catalyst. The resin/talc compound itself doesn't have an interminable
shelf life. Yet Joe's advice about keeping it in a cool/cold place
will do much to extend that. There are also some marine epoxy resins
that make for an extremely hard repair at much, much greater cost. The
fastidious way to apply these also calls for liquid resin coat to be
applied first and dried to a very light tack before the finishing
epoxy mix goes on. The liquid penetrates the bare wood, seals it and
gives adhesion for the overcoat. But it can be done a simpler way with
epoxy as with Bondo.

One bit of advice on any application worth mention is to provide a
roughened surface in the wood for your fill to grab. On a larger area,
the typical process is to roughen with 60 grit paper. Personally, I do
that and use sharp tools to carefully incise the wood across the area
at two different angles. Carefully again, I use the same small tools
to cut a groove at an inward slope around the perimeter so the outward
bottom extends under the undamaged surface. All these efforts add
precious little time to the job. Once done, they also mechanically
make the idea of delamination only a word.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Bondo can be thinned with polester fiberglass resin and the thinned
version seems to penetrate the wood fibers and make an idestructable
bond.

basilisk

B:

Soaking the wood with the mixed penetrating resin appropriate to the
thicker polymer covering until the odor quits, you can fortify
incredibly rotten wood for secondary polymer pours or putty fillings of
optimal durability. All steps in the overall process benefit from heat
and light which makes outdoor treatment time variable, especially since
two soakings are smart.

The consensus choice her is epoxy for any structural application. As
said, it's not the five and ten route. As proved by final results, the
repairs have no parallel.

There is more than one manufacturer on this front but kick around this
website:

http://www.smithandcompany.org/

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Yep, epoxy would be much better for restoration and structural
work.

Rather than structural my uses are more mundane, skinning
CDX plywood for waterproofing and smoothing for cheap outdoor
plaques and signs.

basilisk





--
A wink is as good as a nod to a blind horse

"basilisk" wrote in message
...


B:

Soaking the wood with the mixed penetrating resin appropriate to the
thicker polymer covering until the odor quits, you can fortify
incredibly rotten wood for secondary polymer pours or putty fillings of
optimal durability. All steps in the overall process benefit from heat
and light which makes outdoor treatment time variable, especially since
two soakings are smart.

The consensus choice her is epoxy for any structural application. As
said, it's not the five and ten route. As proved by final results, the
repairs have no parallel.

There is more than one manufacturer on this front but kick around this
website:

http://www.smithandcompany.org/

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Yep, epoxy would be much better for restoration and structural
work.

Rather than structural my uses are more mundane, skinning
CDX plywood for waterproofing and smoothing for cheap outdoor
plaques and signs.

basilisk


B:

That's where this grade of stuff fails: the price doesn't
underwrite what you can charge--performance isn't
cost effective. Also, with the mandatory delays for curing and
reapplication, you there better have something else immediately
productive to do while you wait.

What I'm thinking they call Bondo "reapair compound" (probably
off a bit on that exactly) at HD is good stuff. It takes a quality
primer better than the epoxy putty which accepts paint best
after an outside priming with liquid epoxy.

But if you have a sizzling day, I'd think about undercoating
any Bondo you use with laminating polyester catalyzed with
MEKP. It markedly improves the grab of the Bondo putty
and kicks off like bacon on the sun when the mercury peaks.
As long as you keep the resin cool, it lasts a long time. and the
amount needed to seal an spot patch makes it go a long way.Can't
say I fancy the smell of MEKP though. Won't say it's anything
but unforgettable.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey