I would like to make a shaker chest that has a foot design that looks
like the one on this chest http://www.weaverfurnituresales.com/...th-Mirror.aspx
I like the way it flairs out at the bottom. I have no idea what the
foot design is called, so I am not sure what to search for on google
or youtube. If anyone could point me to a directions on the techniques
for make this type of foot I would be grateful.

Thanks,
Bill

"billreed63" wrote in message
...

I would like to make a shaker chest that has a foot design that looks
like the one on this chest
http://www.weaverfurnituresales.com/...th-Mirror.aspx
I like the way it flairs out at the bottom. I have no idea what the
foot design is called, so I am not sure what to search for on google
or youtube. If anyone could point me to a directions on the techniques
for make this type of foot I would be grateful.

Thanks,
Bill

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It appears to simply flare out parallel to the front of the chest.

Cut the inside wedge off, glue that inside wedge back on to the other side.

On 5/14/2011 12:56 PM, billreed63 wrote:
I would like to make a shaker chest that has a foot design that looks
like the one on this chest http://www.weaverfurnituresales.com/...th-Mirror.aspx
I like the way it flairs out at the bottom. I have no idea what the
foot design is called, so I am not sure what to search for on google
or youtube. If anyone could point me to a directions on the techniques
for make this type of foot I would be grateful.

1. Make a full size, to scale, master template of one leg of your
project chest, complete with your desired flair.

(1/2" mdf is excellent material for this master template/pattern ...
this template should be precisely dimensioned, but thinner, version of
your finished leg)

2. On four boards of your project stock, boards that are WIDE enough to
accommodate the complete flair, use the template to trace out each leg
in pencil.

(orient the template so as to pay particular attention to the grain
pattern at the flair so that you don't end up with a weakness due to
grain direction at the beginning of the flair)

3. Using a band or jig saw, rough cut (about an 1/8" outside the
penciled leg outline) an outline of each leg.

4. Attach the master template/pattern (either screwing in locations that
will be hidden, or using double sided tape) to one of your rough cut
project legs.

5. Using a router "pattern bit" (table mounted router is preferable),
and with the router following your master template, route the 1/8"
excess away.

You should now have one complete, precisely dimensioned, flaired leg for
your chest.

Rinse, repeat.

Although the following is a chair leg instead of your chest leg, the
principle is exactly the same

(just think of the chair leg as your desired flaired leg, albeit with
two extra long "flairs" instead of one):

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/CrftsManCh3.JPG

This picture should bring the above method into focus for you ... if not
shout back with any questions.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On 5/14/2011 3:42 PM, Swingman wrote:

(just think of the chair leg as your desired flaired leg, albeit with
two extra long "flairs" instead of one):

http://www.e-woodshop.net/images/CrftsManCh3.JPG

This picture should bring the above method into focus for you ... if not
shout back with any questions.

To remove any confusion, there are three "master templates/patterns" in
the above picture ... two of them are spares.

I always make a couple of spares of the finalized leg template, either
for future projects, or in case Murphy strikes and ruins the original
.... not a bad practice.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote:

1. Make a full size, to scale, master template of one leg of your
project chest, complete with your desired flair.

(1/2" mdf is excellent material for this master template/pattern ...
this template should be precisely dimensioned, but thinner, version
of your finished leg)
snip

Do you do anything to protect your templates (1/2 " mdf or even 1/4"
hardboard)?

I have found that a couple coats of 1 lb shellac does wonders to
protect mine.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Swingman" wrote:

(1/2" mdf is excellent material for this master template/pattern ...
this template should be precisely dimensioned, but thinner, version
of your finished leg)
snip

Do you do anything to protect your templates (1/2 " mdf or even 1/4"
hardboard)?

I have found that a couple coats of 1 lb shellac does wonders to
protect mine.

Lew

Yep ... That works real well. My problem is finding a place to store the
things as almost every project has at least one.

(and, since I'm moving the shop back to the old building, I will even have
less room ... hard thing, moving back into a smaller space, although it
will balance itself by having the shop back on premises.)

--
www.ewoodshop.com

"Swingman" wrote

(and, since I'm moving the shop back to the old building, I will even have
less room ... hard thing, moving back into a smaller space, although it
will balance itself by having the shop back on premises.)

I understand you got flooded out. Did you rebuild or did they solve the
flooding problem?

Good thing you don't live near the Mississippi river! I understand that
they have a little water problem just now.

In article om, "Lee
Michaels" says...

"Swingman" wrote

(and, since I'm moving the shop back to the old building, I will even have
less room ... hard thing, moving back into a smaller space, although it
will balance itself by having the shop back on premises.)

I understand you got flooded out. Did you rebuild or did they solve the
flooding problem?

Good thing you don't live near the Mississippi river! I understand that
they have a little water problem just now.

They really should just accept that they're on a flood plain and build
accordingly, like the Egyptians did.

Funny that they could figure it out four thousand years ago but we can't
and instead try to prevent the floods.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
in.local...

In article om, "Lee
Michaels" says...

"Swingman" wrote

(and, since I'm moving the shop back to the old building, I will even
have
less room ... hard thing, moving back into a smaller space, although it
will balance itself by having the shop back on premises.)

I understand you got flooded out. Did you rebuild or did they solve the
flooding problem?

Good thing you don't live near the Mississippi river! I understand that
they have a little water problem just now.

They really should just accept that they're on a flood plain and build
accordingly, like the Egyptians did.

Funny that they could figure it out four thousand years ago but we can't
and instead try to prevent the floods.

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

I don't think it is a matter of not knowing that the area will flood and or
how to prevent it so much as it is less expensive to build at ground level
and buy government backed flood insurance.
If the government would quit trying to protect every one from their own
stupidity I think we would become a smarter and more self sufficient
society.

"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:
"Swingman" wrote

(and, since I'm moving the shop back to the old building, I will even have
less room ... hard thing, moving back into a smaller space, although it
will balance itself by having the shop back on premises.)

I understand you got flooded out. Did you rebuild or did they solve the flooding problem?

Good thing you don't live near the Mississippi river! I understand that
they have a little water problem just now.

Subsidence in the general area was the problem with old shop. The shop
building was built on a slab on grade in the forties. Since then, adjacent
construction, genius "flood control" engineering using streets to carry
rain water with no downstream provisions, and lack of permeable soil due to
'paving paradise', had caused the building to start taking in water during
heavy rains.

About a year and a half ago I did a general remodel of the building, added
an average 3 1/2" of height and leveled the slab, added a cofferdam of
sorts, and generally improved drainage away from the building, which will
hopefully buy a few more years of dry use ... another tropical storm like
Allison in 2001 will tell the tale ... my home, on the same lot, is 3'
above grade.

Anyhow, I'm looking forward to having a shop 'out the back door' again,
albeit about 25% smaller then the current. Thus I'm trying the Euro
approach to storage and use of space. We'll see ....

--
www.ewoodshop.com

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

Snip

Thus I'm trying the Euro approach to storage and use of space. We'll see
.....

--
www.ewoodshop.com


@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@


Well why didn't you say something before now?!

May I recommend,,,,

http://www.lagunatools.com/combo/combo-platinum5f12#


Just click on the add to cart button! ;!)

On 5/16/2011 5:59 AM, Leon wrote:
"Swingman" wrote in message
...

Snip

Thus I'm trying the Euro approach to storage and use of space. We'll see
....


While it doesn't fall in the storage category, it does look interesting.
Actually, the price is very reasonable if the quality is there.

Wanna help me move it in??

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)