I have a "selection" of cull lumber bought 65 percent off from the
local LOWES (some was seventy-five off, and some is worth it).
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job at
LOWES and thought to ask you rather than the clerk(s) at LOWES "What's
the besk "skill saw" blade you have for ripping two-by P.T. Lumber -
or plain old ripping vs general porpoise fooling around?"

Anyone have a recommendation?

I also have access to a Home Depot

On 4/15/2011 8:02 AM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
....
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job...
....
Anyone have a recommendation?
....

By model number for a hand circular saw; no...

Any of the rip blades other than, perhaps, some off-the-wall $2
throwaway will be fine. Which, specifically, you choose will depend at
least a little on whether you're just ripping for construction purposes
or whether you're trying to get a finish edge.

For former, go w/ fewer teeth; for the latter, better finish at cost of
slower work but for only a couple, who cares? (Altho I'd tend to think
you'll get better overall longterm use of the rough-cut blade that would
be a better value, but that's a guess not having any idea of what your
typical work would be...)

--

On Apr 15, 8:02*am, Hoosierpopi wrote:
I have a "selection" of cull lumber bought 65 percent off from the
local LOWES (some was seventy-five off, and some is worth it).
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job at
LOWES and thought to ask you rather than the clerk(s) at LOWES "What's
the besk "skill saw" blade you have for ripping two-by P.T. Lumber -
or plain old ripping vs general porpoise fooling around?"

Anyone have a recommendation?

I also have access to a Home Depot

I'd go for something teflon coated.

-Brian

On Apr 15, 8:02*am, Hoosierpopi wrote:
I have a "selection" of cull lumber bought 65 percent off from the
local LOWES (some was seventy-five off, and some is worth it).
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job at
LOWES and thought to ask you rather than the clerk(s) at LOWES "What's
the besk "skill saw" blade you have for ripping two-by P.T. Lumber -
or plain old ripping vs general porpoise fooling around?"

Anyone have a recommendation?

I also have access to a Home Depot

The guys who framed and did some of the exterior trim on our house
used the cheapo Irwin carbide multipurpose. They were about $6 each
and they "used them until they wouldn't cut butter" and replaced
them. None of the work was PT, but they cut lots of 2 x 4 up to
2x12, and some aluminum (on a sled). I followed their lead after
framing was done, for my rougher work, and did fine.

RonB

RonB wrote:

The guys who framed and did some of the exterior trim on our house
used the cheapo Irwin carbide multipurpose. They were about $6 each
and they "used them until they wouldn't cut butter" and replaced
them. None of the work was PT, but they cut lots of 2 x 4 up to
2x12, and some aluminum (on a sled). I followed their lead after
framing was done, for my rougher work, and did fine.

I have also had good luck with a cheap Irwin carbide blade for utility
cutting.

Jon

Thank you all for the input. Will use the wedge. Went to LOWES today
and could not find a single .25" blade labeled "Ripping." I did find
one labeled Framing/Ripping so I guess, based upon what I read here,
I'll go with one of those.

Flat Top (FT) Flat top teeth are used on blades made for ripping hard
and soft woods. Since wood is much less likely to chip and splinter
when it is being cut in the direction of the grain, the focus of a rip
blade is to quickly and efficiently remove material. The flat top
tooth is the most efficient design for cutting and raking material out
of the cut.

A blade for ripping lumber on a table saw will generally have a high
hook angle, where an aggressive, fast cut is usually what you want.
Radial arms saws and sliding compound miter saws, on the other hand,
require a blade with a very low or negative hook angle, to inhibit
overly fast feed rate, binding, and the blade's tendency to try to
"climb" the material.

In general, blades with more teeth yield a smoother cut, and blades
with fewer teeth move material faster. A 10' blade designed for
ripping lumber, for example, usually has as few as 24 teeth, and is
designed quickly move material along the length of the grain. A rip
blade isn't designed to yield a mirror-smooth cut, but a good rip
blade will move through hardwood with little effort and leave a clean
cut with a minimum of scoring.

Rip blades have a fewer number of teeth than crosscut or combination
blades, typically twenty to twenty-four on a ten inch blade. The low
tooth count combined with large gullets and an 18 to 20 degree hook
angle makes Amana rip blades fast and aggressive.

Does anyone even bother to cite their source for cut-n-paste, anymore?


On 4/17/11 11:15 PM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
Thank you all for the input. Will use the wedge. Went to LOWES today
and could not find a single .25" blade labeled "Ripping." I did find
one labeled Framing/Ripping so I guess, based upon what I read here,
I'll go with one of those.

Flat Top (FT) Flat top teeth are used on blades made for ripping hard
and soft woods. Since wood is much less likely to chip and splinter
when it is being cut in the direction of the grain, the focus of a rip
blade is to quickly and efficiently remove material. The flat top
tooth is the most efficient design for cutting and raking material out
of the cut.

A blade for ripping lumber on a table saw will generally have a high
hook angle, where an aggressive, fast cut is usually what you want.
Radial arms saws and sliding compound miter saws, on the other hand,
require a blade with a very low or negative hook angle, to inhibit
overly fast feed rate, binding, and the blade's tendency to try to
"climb" the material.

In general, blades with more teeth yield a smoother cut, and blades
with fewer teeth move material faster. A 10' blade designed for
ripping lumber, for example, usually has as few as 24 teeth, and is
designed quickly move material along the length of the grain. A rip
blade isn't designed to yield a mirror-smooth cut, but a good rip
blade will move through hardwood with little effort and leave a clean
cut with a minimum of scoring.

Rip blades have a fewer number of teeth than crosscut or combination
blades, typically twenty to twenty-four on a ten inch blade. The low
tooth count combined with large gullets and an 18 to 20 degree hook
angle makes Amana rip blades fast and aggressive.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article , -MIKE- wrote:
Does anyone even bother to cite their source for cut-n-paste, anymore?
...snipped...


Some still do, though it has become noticeably less common.

--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On 4/15/11 8:02 AM, Hoosierpopi wrote:
I have a "selection" of cull lumber bought 65 percent off from the
local LOWES (some was seventy-five off, and some is worth it).
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job at
LOWES and thought to ask you rather than the clerk(s) at LOWES "What's
the besk "skill saw" blade you have for ripping two-by P.T. Lumber -
or plain old ripping vs general porpoise fooling around?"

Anyone have a recommendation?

I also have access to a Home Depot

Probably more important than the blade will be using a wedge behind the
blade to keep the board from pinching and binding the blade. A rip blade
will cut easier, but keeping a wedge behind the saw will make the job go
much faster with whatever blade you use.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Apr 15, 9:02*am, Hoosierpopi wrote:
I have a "selection" of cull lumber bought 65 percent off from the
local LOWES (some was seventy-five off, and some is worth it).
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job at
LOWES and thought to ask you rather than the clerk(s) at LOWES "What's
the besk "skill saw" blade you have for ripping two-by P.T. Lumber -
or plain old ripping vs general porpoise fooling around?"

Anyone have a recommendation?

I also have access to a Home Depot

Go look at the blades, look for low tooth count, positive hook angle,
thin kerf.

A rip blade will be about 20degrees positive hook and have a dozen or
fewer teeth, thin kerf means less power required because you are
removing less wood as sawdust.
Drop a fat screwdriver into the cut or some other wedge to hold the
kerf open as you progress down the board.

On 4/16/2011 10:06 AM, beecrofter wrote:
On Apr 15, 9:02 am, wrote:
I have a "selection" of cull lumber bought 65 percent off from the
local LOWES (some was seventy-five off, and some is worth it).
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job at
LOWES and thought to ask you rather than the clerk(s) at LOWES "What's
the besk "skill saw" blade you have for ripping two-by P.T. Lumber -
or plain old ripping vs general porpoise fooling around?"

Anyone have a recommendation?

I also have access to a Home Depot

Go look at the blades, look for low tooth count, positive hook angle,
thin kerf.

A rip blade will be about 20degrees positive hook and have a dozen or
fewer teeth, thin kerf means less power required because you are
removing less wood as sawdust.
Drop a fat screwdriver into the cut or some other wedge to hold the
kerf open as you progress down the board.

....this from an olde track framer in SoCal. Your boards are only 12' in
length; I'd use any carbide blade with 24 teeth (the old B&D Piranha
comes to mind)...you have a Skil-Saw so just jam through 'em. I
wouldn't think to use any kind of wedges or screwdrivers 'cause I'll be
through that cut pretty dang fast, and the blade is small and I'm
workin' with a lot of power. I'm not a big fan of thin kerf for this
kind of work, a good ol' 1/8 kerf *thick* blade takes advantage of the
power of the saw and puts it to good use plowing through the cut without
a bunch of drifting. Just my .02, but this kind of stuff is full
autopilot for a framer.

cg

On Sun, 17 Apr 2011 18:32:54 -0700, Charlie Groh
wrote:

On 4/16/2011 10:06 AM, beecrofter wrote:
On Apr 15, 9:02 am, wrote:
I have a "selection" of cull lumber bought 65 percent off from the
local LOWES (some was seventy-five off, and some is worth it).
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job at
LOWES and thought to ask you rather than the clerk(s) at LOWES "What's
the besk "skill saw" blade you have for ripping two-by P.T. Lumber -
or plain old ripping vs general porpoise fooling around?"

Anyone have a recommendation?

I also have access to a Home Depot

Go look at the blades, look for low tooth count, positive hook angle,
thin kerf.

A rip blade will be about 20degrees positive hook and have a dozen or
fewer teeth, thin kerf means less power required because you are
removing less wood as sawdust.
Drop a fat screwdriver into the cut or some other wedge to hold the
kerf open as you progress down the board.

...this from an olde track framer in SoCal. Your boards are only 12' in
length; I'd use any carbide blade with 24 teeth (the old B&D Piranha

I try to stick with the 16 or 18-tooth Piranhas for ripping.
http://goo.gl/EVPT5 Gotta order more after I recover from the IRS'
bite.


comes to mind)...you have a Skil-Saw so just jam through 'em. I
wouldn't think to use any kind of wedges or screwdrivers 'cause I'll be
through that cut pretty dang fast, and the blade is small and I'm
workin' with a lot of power. I'm not a big fan of thin kerf for this
kind of work, a good ol' 1/8 kerf *thick* blade takes advantage of the
power of the saw and puts it to good use plowing through the cut without
a bunch of drifting. Just my .02, but this kind of stuff is full
autopilot for a framer.

Agreed, the stiffer blades work better for freehand rips.

--
If only he'd wash his neck, I'd wring it.
-- John Sparrow

On 4/17/2011 6:51 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 17 Apr 2011 18:32:54 -0700, Charlie Groh
wrote:

On 4/16/2011 10:06 AM, beecrofter wrote:
On Apr 15, 9:02 am, wrote:
I have a "selection" of cull lumber bought 65 percent off from the
local LOWES (some was seventy-five off, and some is worth it).
Included ar six two by twelves (pressure treated) twelve feet long
that are not at all "wet" and have been air-drying in the store and my
yard for a year or so.

OK, I need to rip them down into two by six boards (or whatever
ripping them down the middle will actually yield). I have a Craftsman
Industrial worm-drive "skill saw" that has the torque and power
required - but I was hoping to find a "perfect blade" for the job at
LOWES and thought to ask you rather than the clerk(s) at LOWES "What's
the besk "skill saw" blade you have for ripping two-by P.T. Lumber -
or plain old ripping vs general porpoise fooling around?"

Anyone have a recommendation?

I also have access to a Home Depot

Go look at the blades, look for low tooth count, positive hook angle,
thin kerf.

A rip blade will be about 20degrees positive hook and have a dozen or
fewer teeth, thin kerf means less power required because you are
removing less wood as sawdust.
Drop a fat screwdriver into the cut or some other wedge to hold the
kerf open as you progress down the board.

...this from an olde track framer in SoCal. Your boards are only 12' in
length; I'd use any carbide blade with 24 teeth (the old B&D Piranha

I try to stick with the 16 or 18-tooth Piranhas for ripping.
http://goo.gl/EVPT5 Gotta order more after I recover from the IRS'
bite.

....yup...a few less teeth will do better...I got a whole wheel of steel
blades that would work great, too, but I keep forgetting I got 'em!

cg




comes to mind)...you have a Skil-Saw so just jam through 'em. I
wouldn't think to use any kind of wedges or screwdrivers 'cause I'll be
through that cut pretty dang fast, and the blade is small and I'm
workin' with a lot of power. I'm not a big fan of thin kerf for this
kind of work, a good ol' 1/8 kerf *thick* blade takes advantage of the
power of the saw and puts it to good use plowing through the cut without
a bunch of drifting. Just my .02, but this kind of stuff is full
autopilot for a framer.

Agreed, the stiffer blades work better for freehand rips.

--
If only he'd wash his neck, I'd wring it.
-- John Sparrow