So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


May sound strange, but for optimal performance I think you have to take
into consideration how you are going to be using the axe (type of wood,
for instance). The angle of the bevel will clearly determine the
strength of its cutting edge. I won't offer any numbers as frankly I
lack the experience to prescribe them. Sharp axes are known to be safer
than dull ones!

Bill

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


May sound strange, but for optimal performance I think you have to take
into consideration how you are going to be using the axe (type of wood,
for instance). The angle of the bevel will clearly determine the
strength of its cutting edge. I won't offer any numbers as frankly I
lack the experience to prescribe them. Sharp axes are known to be safer
than dull ones!

I don't take the time to Scary(tm) an axe, but I sharpen frequently on
a 600grit diamond hone to DamnearScary(tmLJ). I'm taking out an apple
tree in the side yard right now and the first couple licks on a 4"
diameter root blew me away. It sounded like rifle shots as the axe hit
that superhard wood. Amazing.

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump grinding.

--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand

"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not,
because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


May sound strange, but for optimal performance I think you
have to take
into consideration how you are going to be using the axe
(type of wood,
for instance). The angle of the bevel will clearly
determine the
strength of its cutting edge. I won't offer any numbers as
frankly I
lack the experience to prescribe them. Sharp axes are
known to be safer
than dull ones!

I don't take the time to Scary(tm) an axe, but I sharpen
frequently on
a 600grit diamond hone to DamnearScary(tmLJ). I'm taking
out an apple
tree in the side yard right now and the first couple licks
on a 4"
diameter root blew me away. It sounded like rifle shots as
the axe hit
that superhard wood. Amazing.

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my
waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the
surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump
grinding.

--


LJ:

I'll go with DNSS and up that to SS assuming
mill wood or that you are talking any wood
clear of rocks, nails or other hard, blunting
inclusions that, say, a tree may have
acquired over its growth. You want the axe to
have the maximum penetration your selection of
force allows and, lordy, under any circumstances,
you don't want the thing to jump, deflect or skip.
Blunt axes will do that. Should they then land
outside of your target zone--or on parts of
the axeman--a guy may have a real reason to
hate long division. Sharp axes stick. But I sure
wouldn't use them for peeling or without clearing the
area an arc would take them to if you heman
it through a limb that should have been tougher than
that.

If you're felling, the difference between a
powerful axe blow and one a tenth as powerful
not only wastes time but it practically convinces
you that 1x10 doesn't equal 10. With a 10 blow
you shatter and crack. So, other things come into
play in assessing what works best. Those things
are the heaviness of the head and the length of the
handle. Force being equal, a weightier head
and a long handle rule.

A practical trick that also
works well is to wrap a length of inner tube about
4" wide in two layers just below the head on the
handle and use automotive band clamps to keep it there.
This protects the handle from protuberances and the
head from loosening. Wrap it much thicker and you might
get that ill bounding we talked about and want to avoid.
But, done as indicated and after sentences of practice,
the only setback seen with this procedure is that the clamps
will break or crack sooner or later in.

Lastly in the area, another jeopardy from extended
hours with a heavy axe is "trigger finger". Your handle
reverberates and causes a traumatic knot to occur in
the finger tendons that cross the palm, especially on
the topmost hand. Symptomatic is a finger starting to lock
closed, then opening with a pop. Keep on keepin' on
when the sign first appears and you win an operation which
alleviates the difficulty without remedy of the damage.
In other words, go and do something else for a month
or so if the omen shows. Another alert from persistent use
is
"white finger" but I won't get into that here except to say
if the digits go numb, quit and get reading.

Prevention for the cited maladies is to wrap a handle
tightly
in foam pipe insulation along with the wearing of
some expensive gloves whose name can be fetched
on demand. If the wrapping reduces your handle
control, it isn't tight enough or it's too thick. This last
paragraph
works for sledges too. There's an odd lanyard technique
for allowing the release of sledges before the acutal
moment of impact but we'll save that one until we meet
on the rockpile.

See how a simple question hooks up one thing
with another?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Scary sharp is not required, but a good sharp ax is. If splitting
wood lengthwise, the bevel angle should be relatively high. When
cutting cross-grain, the bevel angle should be lower.

Buy an old ax or one with reasonable metal, so that it doesn't dull so
easily. The handle should have coarse grain, not close/tight grain,
to prevent/reduce vibration or splitting easily.

A sharp ax will leave a clean cut on a hard wood. Problems cutting
those apple roots: your ax is either dull or the bevel angle is too
high.

Sonny

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:45:28 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not,
because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


May sound strange, but for optimal performance I think you
have to take
into consideration how you are going to be using the axe
(type of wood,
for instance). The angle of the bevel will clearly
determine the
strength of its cutting edge. I won't offer any numbers as
frankly I
lack the experience to prescribe them. Sharp axes are
known to be safer
than dull ones!

I don't take the time to Scary(tm) an axe, but I sharpen
frequently on
a 600grit diamond hone to DamnearScary(tmLJ). I'm taking
out an apple
tree in the side yard right now and the first couple licks
on a 4"
diameter root blew me away. It sounded like rifle shots as
the axe hit
that superhard wood. Amazing.

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my
waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the
surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump
grinding.

--


LJ:

I'll go with DNSS and up that to SS assuming
mill wood or that you are talking any wood
clear of rocks, nails or other hard, blunting
inclusions that, say, a tree may have
acquired over its growth. You want the axe to
have the maximum penetration your selection of
force allows and, lordy, under any circumstances,
you don't want the thing to jump, deflect or skip.
Blunt axes will do that. Should they then land
outside of your target zone--or on parts of
the axeman--a guy may have a real reason to
hate long division. Sharp axes stick. But I sure
wouldn't use them for peeling or without clearing the
area an arc would take them to if you heman
it through a limb that should have been tougher than
that.

If you're felling, the difference between a
powerful axe blow and one a tenth as powerful
not only wastes time but it practically convinces
you that 1x10 doesn't equal 10. With a 10 blow
you shatter and crack. So, other things come into
play in assessing what works best. Those things
are the heaviness of the head and the length of the
handle. Force being equal, a weightier head
and a long handle rule.

Ayup. And I take a wide stance on roots since the trajectory of the
axe head is between them if anything does wrong.


A practical trick that also
works well is to wrap a length of inner tube about
4" wide in two layers just below the head on the
handle and use automotive band clamps to keep it there.
This protects the handle from protuberances and the
head from loosening. Wrap it much thicker and you might
get that ill bounding we talked about and want to avoid.
But, done as indicated and after sentences of practice,
the only setback seen with this procedure is that the clamps
will break or crack sooner or later in.

I'm about ready to spend some money on a new handle for this $3
garbage sale axe, but it hasn't finished itself off yet. Ditto the $5
gs pick mattock.


Lastly in the area, another jeopardy from extended
hours with a heavy axe is "trigger finger". Your handle
reverberates and causes a traumatic knot to occur in
the finger tendons that cross the palm, especially on
the topmost hand. Symptomatic is a finger starting to lock
closed, then opening with a pop. Keep on keepin' on
when the sign first appears and you win an operation which
alleviates the difficulty without remedy of the damage.
In other words, go and do something else for a month
or so if the omen shows. Another alert from persistent use
is
"white finger" but I won't get into that here except to say
if the digits go numb, quit and get reading.

Prevention for the cited maladies is to wrap a handle
tightly
in foam pipe insulation along with the wearing of
some expensive gloves whose name can be fetched
on demand. If the wrapping reduces your handle
control, it isn't tight enough or it's too thick. This last
paragraph
works for sledges too. There's an odd lanyard technique
for allowing the release of sledges before the acutal
moment of impact but we'll save that one until we meet
on the rockpile.

I'd never, ever wrap a handle with foam. The rake is the only
implement which gets that treatment, and it's not critical to my
wellbeing if it slips.

Besides, I only use the axe when there are a few laterals and I can't
get the mud out of the way easily. I don't mind getting a few dings on
the axe from the dirt. I wouldn't do that with a felling axe I used
for real work, but I don't do that, anyway. I give the wood to
neighbors willing to take their chainsaws to it and haul it off.


See how a simple question hooks up one thing
with another?

Like me asking (with a giggle)
"On what prison farm did you learn these tough life lessons, Ed?"

--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand

On Apr 12, 11:03*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
So? *Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.

Sculpting axe, yes, if I want the hewing marks part of
the finish. For a regular utility axe, file or coarse stone,
the edge isn't going to be babied.

In article ,
Edward Hennessey wrote:
Prevention for the cited maladies is to wrap a handle tightly in foam
pipe insulation along with the wearing of some expensive gloves whose
name can be fetched on demand.

The special tape used for wrapping up tennis racquet handles is good.
Sticks well, has some cushioning but also provides a good grip without
requiring too much of a squeeze from the hand. This is a tip I learned
from a blacksmith. My favourite hammer is treated this way and it works
well.

--
Stuart Winsor

Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011

http://mug.riscos.org/show11/MUGshow.html

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


Well.... I generally sharpen my axe, hatchet and machete "shaving sharp..."
I want them to cut and stick, not whack and bounce. A dull one of any of
them can be down right dangerous. As needed, I do a relief grind on a slow
speed grinder or water grinder. The machete is finished with a buffing wheel
and the others on Arkansas stones. My intent is to keep these tools out of
the dirt. On that note though, I've encountered embedded dirt, rocks, barded
wire, bullets, and other things in trees.

If I'm chopping roots I use a sharpened Cutter Mattock (e.g.,
http://www.easydigging.com/Garden_To...k_mattock.html. This is sharpened
on the grinder only... it's cutting in dirt after all!

The right tool and a sharp tool make the job easier and safer!

John

BTW, I sharpen my shovels, post hole digger, and other gardening/digging
tools on a grinder also... I don't personally know of anyone else that does
that today but do recall back in the 1960s an elderly man whom had
apprenticed as a blacksmith as a child in Poland who did so. He came to the
US after WWII and had acres of hand turned, and maintained vegetable
gardens. I recall watching him cutting fields with a scythe! He had a stone
in his pocket to keep that sharp too.

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:45:28 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill
wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not,
because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


May sound strange, but for optimal performance I think you
have to take
into consideration how you are going to be using the axe
(type of wood,
for instance). The angle of the bevel will clearly
determine the
strength of its cutting edge. I won't offer any numbers as
frankly I
lack the experience to prescribe them. Sharp axes are
known to be safer
than dull ones!

I don't take the time to Scary(tm) an axe, but I sharpen
frequently on
a 600grit diamond hone to DamnearScary(tmLJ). I'm taking
out an apple
tree in the side yard right now and the first couple licks
on a 4"
diameter root blew me away. It sounded like rifle shots as
the axe hit
that superhard wood. Amazing.

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my
waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the
surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump
grinding.

--


LJ:

I'll go with DNSS and up that to SS assuming
mill wood or that you are talking any wood
clear of rocks, nails or other hard, blunting
inclusions that, say, a tree may have
acquired over its growth. You want the axe to
have the maximum penetration your selection of
force allows and, lordy, under any circumstances,
you don't want the thing to jump, deflect or skip.
Blunt axes will do that. Should they then land
outside of your target zone--or on parts of
the axeman--a guy may have a real reason to
hate long division. Sharp axes stick. But I sure
wouldn't use them for peeling or without clearing the
area an arc would take them to if you heman
it through a limb that should have been tougher than
that.

If you're felling, the difference between a
powerful axe blow and one a tenth as powerful
not only wastes time but it practically convinces
you that 1x10 doesn't equal 10. With a 10 blow
you shatter and crack. So, other things come into
play in assessing what works best. Those things
are the heaviness of the head and the length of the
handle. Force being equal, a weightier head
and a long handle rule.

A practical trick that also
works well is to wrap a length of inner tube about
4" wide in two layers just below the head on the
handle and use automotive band clamps to keep it there.
This protects the handle from protuberances and the
head from loosening. Wrap it much thicker and you might
get that ill bounding we talked about and want to avoid.
But, done as indicated and after sentences of practice,
the only setback seen with this procedure is that the clamps
will break or crack sooner or later in.

Lastly in the area, another jeopardy from extended
hours with a heavy axe is "trigger finger". Your handle
reverberates and causes a traumatic knot to occur in
the finger tendons that cross the palm, especially on
the topmost hand. Symptomatic is a finger starting to lock
closed, then opening with a pop. Keep on keepin' on
when the sign first appears and you win an operation which
alleviates the difficulty without remedy of the damage.
In other words, go and do something else for a month
or so if the omen shows. Another alert from persistent use
is
"white finger" but I won't get into that here except to say
if the digits go numb, quit and get reading.

Prevention for the cited maladies is to wrap a handle
tightly
in foam pipe insulation along with the wearing of
some expensive gloves whose name can be fetched
on demand. If the wrapping reduces your handle
control, it isn't tight enough or it's too thick. This last
paragraph
works for sledges too. There's an odd lanyard technique
for allowing the release of sledges before the acutal
moment of impact but we'll save that one until we meet
on the rockpile.

See how a simple question hooks up one thing
with another?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey


Some of the new fiber-glass handles reduce both problems
significantly.

I like the ones with molded rubber grips.

On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 18:22:59 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:45:28 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message ...

I don't take the time to Scary(tm) an axe, but I sharpen
frequently on
a 600grit diamond hone to DamnearScary(tmLJ). I'm taking
out an apple
tree in the side yard right now and the first couple licks
on a 4"
diameter root blew me away. It sounded like rifle shots as
the axe hit
that superhard wood. Amazing.

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my
waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the
surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump
grinding.

LJ:

I'll go with DNSS and up that to SS assuming
mill wood or that you are talking any wood
clear of rocks, nails or other hard, blunting
inclusions that, say, a tree may have
acquired over its growth. You want the axe to
have the maximum penetration your selection of
force allows and, lordy, under any circumstances,
you don't want the thing to jump, deflect or skip.
Blunt axes will do that. Should they then land
outside of your target zone--or on parts of
the axeman--a guy may have a real reason to
hate long division. Sharp axes stick. But I sure
wouldn't use them for peeling or without clearing the
area an arc would take them to if you heman
it through a limb that should have been tougher than
that.

If you're felling, the difference between a
powerful axe blow and one a tenth as powerful
not only wastes time but it practically convinces
you that 1x10 doesn't equal 10. With a 10 blow
you shatter and crack. So, other things come into
play in assessing what works best. Those things
are the heaviness of the head and the length of the
handle. Force being equal, a weightier head
and a long handle rule.

A practical trick that also
works well is to wrap a length of inner tube about
4" wide in two layers just below the head on the
handle and use automotive band clamps to keep it there.
This protects the handle from protuberances and the
head from loosening. Wrap it much thicker and you might
get that ill bounding we talked about and want to avoid.
But, done as indicated and after sentences of practice,
the only setback seen with this procedure is that the clamps
will break or crack sooner or later in.

Lastly in the area, another jeopardy from extended
hours with a heavy axe is "trigger finger". Your handle
reverberates and causes a traumatic knot to occur in
the finger tendons that cross the palm, especially on
the topmost hand. Symptomatic is a finger starting to lock
closed, then opening with a pop. Keep on keepin' on
when the sign first appears and you win an operation which
alleviates the difficulty without remedy of the damage.
In other words, go and do something else for a month
or so if the omen shows. Another alert from persistent use
is
"white finger" but I won't get into that here except to say
if the digits go numb, quit and get reading.

Prevention for the cited maladies is to wrap a handle
tightly
in foam pipe insulation along with the wearing of
some expensive gloves whose name can be fetched
on demand. If the wrapping reduces your handle
control, it isn't tight enough or it's too thick. This last
paragraph
works for sledges too. There's an odd lanyard technique
for allowing the release of sledges before the acutal
moment of impact but we'll save that one until we meet
on the rockpile.

See how a simple question hooks up one thing
with another?

Some of the new fiber-glass handles reduce both problems
significantly.

I like the ones with molded rubber grips.

I like to do a little bit, but if a lot needs to be done, I hire it
out and charge the client accordingly. Or pay the neighbor kid to do
the dastardly deed for me.

--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill wrote:

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump grinding.


A sawzall with a long coarse blade is the best way to cut roots... unlike a
chainsaw it does not mind the occasional dirt.

Cheers, Shawn

On Wed, 13 Apr 2011 23:10:34 -0800, "RimaNeas"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill wrote:

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump grinding.


A sawzall with a long coarse blade is the best way to cut roots... unlike a
chainsaw it does not mind the occasional dirt.

Shawn, you make a bloody good point there. I have some 12" woodworking
blades for my recip, too. I'll try that later today, iffen the rain
stops long enough. The smaller recip will get into tighter areas,
too. I like it!

--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand

"Larry Jaques" wrote

Shawn, you make a bloody good point there. I have some 12" woodworking
blades for my recip, too. I'll try that later today, iffen the rain
stops long enough. The smaller recip will get into tighter areas,
too. I like it!

Those recip saws are handy.

Had a neighbor who had a bunch of junk to get rid of, but it would not fit
into the garbage can. I brought my recip saw over there and cut everything
up into small enough chunks to satisfy the garbage man. I have done the
same thing myself. Roots, branches, old office chairs, etc. It is
versatile. And when it bogs down, just change the blade. I did not have one
for along time. But when I got it (on sale) I have been finding uses for it
again and again. The only problem is when the stock is not secure. As long
as the stock is secure, everything else works just fine.

On Apr 14, 3:10*am, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

...

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill wrote:

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump grinding.

A sawzall with a long coarse blade is the best way to cut roots... unlike a
chainsaw it does not mind the occasional dirt.

Cheers, Shawn

AAMOF, you can get pruning blades for a Sawsall which work great on
roots. BTDT

On Apr 14, 9:00*am, "Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast
dot net wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote

Shawn, you make a bloody good point there. I have some 12" woodworking
blades for my recip, too. *I'll try that later today, iffen the rain
stops long enough. *The smaller recip will get into tighter areas,
too. I like it!

Those recip saws are handy.

Had a neighbor who had a bunch of junk to get rid of, but it would not fit
into the garbage can. *I brought my recip saw over there and cut everything
up into small enough chunks to satisfy the garbage man. *I have done the
same thing myself. Roots, branches, old office chairs, etc. *It is
versatile. And when it bogs down, just change the blade. *I did not have one
for along time. *But when I got it (on sale) I have been finding uses for it
again and again. *The only problem is when the stock is not secure. *As long
as the stock is secure, everything else works just fine.

Besides a standard Milwaukee with a tail, I also have an 18 volt
Milwaukee Sawsall. Talk about handy.

On 4/14/2011 9:00 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:
The only problem is when the stock
is not secure. As long as the stock is secure, everything else works
just fine.


That reminds me of when I tried to cut hardboard with a scroll saw. It
didn't work At All. At the time I was in disbelief. The problem was
explained to me (in this forum).

Bill

On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 06:56:28 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Apr 14, 3:10Â*am, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

...

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill wrote:

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump grinding.

A sawzall with a long coarse blade is the best way to cut roots... unlike a
chainsaw it does not mind the occasional dirt.

Cheers, Shawn

AAMOF, you can get pruning blades for a Sawsall which work great on
roots. BTDT
"demolition" blades are great - they'll even go through spikes or
fence wire without damaging the blade, and they are aggressive enough
to handle wet roots quite quickly.

On 4/14/11 12:45 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 06:56:28 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

On Apr 14, 3:10 am, wrote:
"Larry wrote in message

...

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, wrote:

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump grinding.

A sawzall with a long coarse blade is the best way to cut roots... unlike a
chainsaw it does not mind the occasional dirt.

Cheers, Shawn

AAMOF, you can get pruning blades for a Sawsall which work great on
roots. BTDT
"demolition" blades are great - they'll even go through spikes or
fence wire without damaging the blade, and they are aggressive enough
to handle wet roots quite quickly.

My backyard has an apple and a pear tree, they both send up weird
branches and need to be aggressively pruned every couple of years.
The recip is the tool of choice with a demolition blade, did the same
with a stump in the backyard when we bough the place, dug around it a
bit with a shovel, then slice and dice time. Couldn't find the spot now
if I tried.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Apr 14, 12:45*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 06:56:28 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy





wrote:
On Apr 14, 3:10*am, "RimaNeas" wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

. ..

On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill wrote:

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump grinding.

A sawzall with a long coarse blade is the best way to cut roots... unlike a
chainsaw it does not mind the occasional dirt.

Cheers, Shawn

AAMOF, you can get pruning blades for a Sawsall which work great on
roots. BTDT

*"demolition" blades are great - they'll even go through spikes or
fence wire without damaging the blade, and they are aggressive enough
to handle wet roots quite quickly.

I tried that and on the roots I was cutting (young and succulent) the
standard demo blade filled up very quickly rendering it practically
useless after a few strokes. I can see a standard demo blade being
just fine for something a bit more dense, dryer, and mature.

On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 09:00:42 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:



"Larry Jaques" wrote

Shawn, you make a bloody good point there. I have some 12" woodworking
blades for my recip, too. I'll try that later today, iffen the rain
stops long enough. The smaller recip will get into tighter areas,
too. I like it!

Those recip saws are handy.

Had a neighbor who had a bunch of junk to get rid of, but it would not fit
into the garbage can. I brought my recip saw over there and cut everything
up into small enough chunks to satisfy the garbage man. I have done the
same thing myself. Roots, branches, old office chairs, etc. It is
versatile. And when it bogs down, just change the blade. I did not have one
for along time. But when I got it (on sale) I have been finding uses for it
again and again. The only problem is when the stock is not secure. As long
as the stock is secure, everything else works just fine.

Ditto here. I have some of he old back porch roof to cut up, where the
flashing was glued to the perimeter with hot tar. I'll cut it to
length and send it away with the garbage next week.

They're the only thing for demolition...unless you can afford a
carbide chain saw chain for $200-400.

--
The United States of America is the greatest, the
noblest and, in its original founding principles,
the only moral country in the history of the world.
-- Ayn Rand

"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:45:28 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill

wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or
not,
because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


May sound strange, but for optimal performance I think
you
have to take
into consideration how you are going to be using the axe
(type of wood,
for instance). The angle of the bevel will clearly
determine the
strength of its cutting edge. I won't offer any numbers
as
frankly I
lack the experience to prescribe them. Sharp axes are
known to be safer
than dull ones!

I don't take the time to Scary(tm) an axe, but I sharpen
frequently on
a 600grit diamond hone to DamnearScary(tmLJ). I'm
taking
out an apple
tree in the side yard right now and the first couple
licks
on a 4"
diameter root blew me away. It sounded like rifle shots
as
the axe hit
that superhard wood. Amazing.

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my
waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the
surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump
grinding.

--


LJ:

I'll go with DNSS and up that to SS assuming
mill wood or that you are talking any wood
clear of rocks, nails or other hard, blunting
inclusions that, say, a tree may have
acquired over its growth. You want the axe to
have the maximum penetration your selection of
force allows and, lordy, under any circumstances,
you don't want the thing to jump, deflect or skip.
Blunt axes will do that. Should they then land
outside of your target zone--or on parts of
the axeman--a guy may have a real reason to
hate long division. Sharp axes stick. But I sure
wouldn't use them for peeling or without clearing the
area an arc would take them to if you heman
it through a limb that should have been tougher than
that.

If you're felling, the difference between a
powerful axe blow and one a tenth as powerful
not only wastes time but it practically convinces
you that 1x10 doesn't equal 10. With a 10 blow
you shatter and crack. So, other things come into
play in assessing what works best. Those things
are the heaviness of the head and the length of the
handle. Force being equal, a weightier head
and a long handle rule.

LJ:

Ayup. And I take a wide stance on roots since the
trajectory of the
axe head is between them if anything does wrong.

A cheapo and available purchase at garage sales, flea
markets and the like are catcher's shin guards. They'll
go nice with your steel-toed sneakers. The thick plastic
ones sure beat unadorned Levi's.


A practical trick that also
works well is to wrap a length of inner tube about
4" wide in two layers just below the head on the
handle and use automotive band clamps to keep it there.
This protects the handle from protuberances and the
head from loosening. Wrap it much thicker and you might
get that ill bounding we talked about and want to avoid.
But, done as indicated and after sentences of practice,
the only setback seen with this procedure is that the
clamps
will break or crack sooner or later in.

I'm about ready to spend some money on a new handle for
this $3
garbage sale axe, but it hasn't finished itself off yet.
Ditto the $5
gs pick mattock.

When it's possible, I've had good returns pulling the wedge
in the
handle eye, backing out the handle, keying surfaces with 50
grit,
slathering everything with epoxy and putting the wedge back
in ,
snugging components up so the wood-to-steel interfaces on
the head
and wedge aren't starved of adhesive. Have some acetone on
hand
to tidy up because it's a mess.


Lastly in the area, another jeopardy from extended
hours with a heavy axe is "trigger finger". Your handle
reverberates and causes a traumatic knot to occur in
the finger tendons that cross the palm, especially on
the topmost hand. Symptomatic is a finger starting to lock
closed, then opening with a pop. Keep on keepin' on
when the sign first appears and you win an operation which
alleviates the difficulty without remedy of the damage.
In other words, go and do something else for a month
or so if the omen shows.

As a footnote, I know I read some guys get TF trying
to take up golf. Golf. Susceptibilities vary widely.


Another alert from persistent use
is
"white finger" but I won't get into that here except to
say
if the digits go numb, quit and get reading.

Prevention for the cited maladies is to wrap a handle
tightly
in foam pipe insulation along with the wearing of
some expensive gloves whose name can be fetched
on demand. If the wrapping reduces your handle
control, it isn't tight enough or it's too thick. This
last
paragraph
works for sledges too. There's an odd lanyard technique
for allowing the release of sledges before the acutal
moment of impact but we'll save that one until we meet
on the rockpile.

I'd never, ever wrap a handle with foam. The rake is the
only
implement which gets that treatment, and it's not critical
to my
wellbeing if it slips.

Done right, it won't. I have a roll of some thinner stuff
but on sledges especially, there is massive improvement in
the vibration dampening and you can compress even the
regular
product real tight with tape. Add glue. Remember you're
holding it
too.

A friend thinks similarly but first
makes a bunch of very slight conical depressions all over
the
handle with a countersink, thinking that these make
anti-slip
keys for the foam when compressed by either the tape or
swinging hands. Likely, he's right.

The killer foam for the application was developed for
seating
in the FB-111. That pads my gloves. When I saw your basic
6'8"
demonstrator do a dead knee drop on concrete covered by
a 1/4"-3/8" pad of the product, the wallet made like an
airborne butterfly giving live birth to dollar bills. One
day, the
wallet may have further fits and buy a roll of the material.

Besides, I only use the axe when there are a few laterals
and I can't
get the mud out of the way easily. I don't mind getting a
few dings on
the axe from the dirt. I wouldn't do that with a felling
axe I used
for real work, but I don't do that, anyway. I give the
wood to
neighbors willing to take their chainsaws to it and haul
it off.


See how a simple question hooks up one thing
with another?

Like me asking (with a giggle)
"On what prison farm did you learn these tough life
lessons, Ed?"

Larry...Larry...Larry, 7734 inverted, I just can't tell
you nothing. If I pull out the alumni directory, you're
what,
Angola class of '73-4?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:45:28 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 12 Apr 2011 23:37:56 -0400, Bill

wrote:

-MIKE- wrote:
So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or
not,
because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.


May sound strange, but for optimal performance I think
you
have to take
into consideration how you are going to be using the axe
(type of wood,
for instance). The angle of the bevel will clearly
determine the
strength of its cutting edge. I won't offer any numbers
as
frankly I
lack the experience to prescribe them. Sharp axes are
known to be safer
than dull ones!

I don't take the time to Scary(tm) an axe, but I sharpen
frequently on
a 600grit diamond hone to DamnearScary(tmLJ). I'm
taking
out an apple
tree in the side yard right now and the first couple
licks
on a 4"
diameter root blew me away. It sounded like rifle shots
as
the axe hit
that superhard wood. Amazing.

And after seeing a deep lateral almost the size of my
waist, I have
decided to dig around it and cut it off beneath the
surface with a
chainsaw instead of digging the roots out or stump
grinding.

--


LJ:

I'll go with DNSS and up that to SS assuming
mill wood or that you are talking any wood
clear of rocks, nails or other hard, blunting
inclusions that, say, a tree may have
acquired over its growth. You want the axe to
have the maximum penetration your selection of
force allows and, lordy, under any circumstances,
you don't want the thing to jump, deflect or skip.
Blunt axes will do that. Should they then land
outside of your target zone--or on parts of
the axeman--a guy may have a real reason to
hate long division. Sharp axes stick. But I sure
wouldn't use them for peeling or without clearing the
area an arc would take them to if you heman
it through a limb that should have been tougher than
that.

If you're felling, the difference between a
powerful axe blow and one a tenth as powerful
not only wastes time but it practically convinces
you that 1x10 doesn't equal 10. With a 10 blow
you shatter and crack. So, other things come into
play in assessing what works best. Those things
are the heaviness of the head and the length of the
handle. Force being equal, a weightier head
and a long handle rule.

A practical trick that also
works well is to wrap a length of inner tube about
4" wide in two layers just below the head on the
handle and use automotive band clamps to keep it there.
This protects the handle from protuberances and the
head from loosening. Wrap it much thicker and you might
get that ill bounding we talked about and want to avoid.
But, done as indicated and after sentences of practice,
the only setback seen with this procedure is that the
clamps
will break or crack sooner or later in.

Lastly in the area, another jeopardy from extended
hours with a heavy axe is "trigger finger". Your handle
reverberates and causes a traumatic knot to occur in
the finger tendons that cross the palm, especially on
the topmost hand. Symptomatic is a finger starting to lock
closed, then opening with a pop. Keep on keepin' on
when the sign first appears and you win an operation which
alleviates the difficulty without remedy of the damage.
In other words, go and do something else for a month
or so if the omen shows. Another alert from persistent use
is
"white finger" but I won't get into that here except to
say
if the digits go numb, quit and get reading.

Prevention for the cited maladies is to wrap a handle
tightly
in foam pipe insulation along with the wearing of
some expensive gloves whose name can be fetched
on demand. If the wrapping reduces your handle
control, it isn't tight enough or it's too thick. This
last
paragraph
works for sledges too. There's an odd lanyard technique
for allowing the release of sledges before the acutal
moment of impact but we'll save that one until we meet
on the rockpile.

See how a simple question hooks up one thing
with another?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey


Some of the new fiber-glass handles reduce both problems
significantly.

I like the ones with molded rubber grips.

C:

If you have any specific names to mention or any other
structural detail or tests that you've come across, it
would be great to hear. Comparative data would be
a specially good find if that is handy.

I know there are ways to make
the handles both strong with better vibration dampening
but until that can be accomplished at a cost the market
is willing to profitably support....

There's a sledge with the handle attached to the
head by a short length of cable. It's obviously a
bit floppy; that's immaterial for most breaking
What it does for diminishing user
wear and tear is amazing. Now if only there was
a more durable method of reliably attaching the
cable.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Regards

On Apr 12, 11:37*pm, Bill wrote:

Sharp axes are known to be safer than dull ones!

I guess this guy's axe is pretty damn safe then, but I bet you still
cringe when you watch it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueIB0h4SzHc

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Apr 12, 11:37 pm, Bill wrote:

Sharp axes are known to be safer than dull ones!

I guess this guy's axe is pretty damn safe then, but I bet you still
cringe when you watch it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueIB0h4SzHc



The technique doesn't look any different from how they did it here in
yesteryear... Having worked in leather soled 18th century style shoes, that
aren't particularly "grippy," barefoot might actually be better. Also, like
a good chef keeps his fingers curled while using a knife, this craftsman has
his toes curled (and maybe his sphincter muscle)!

John

On 4/15/2011 2:24 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Apr 12, 11:37 pm, wrote:

Sharp axes are known to be safer than dull ones!

I guess this guy's axe is pretty damn safe then, but I bet you still
cringe when you watch it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueIB0h4SzHc

R

I love that axe that he has! I am going to have to see about finding
one like that.

It does not make me cringe when I watch him. But I am one of those that
believes that the best safety equipment is your mind and your skill, not
gadgets.

--
Robert Allison
New Braunfels, TX

On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:12:33 -0500, Robert Allison
wrote:

On 4/15/2011 2:24 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Apr 12, 11:37 pm, wrote:

Sharp axes are known to be safer than dull ones!

I guess this guy's axe is pretty damn safe then, but I bet you still
cringe when you watch it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueIB0h4SzHc

R

I love that axe that he has! I am going to have to see about finding
one like that.

That's just a regular, unsided broadaxe, Robert. Some were built for
lefthanded or righthanded people and the blade is offset to one side.
Pics of the various profiles: http://goo.gl/Y2mUd

I like the bearded style 1800s broadaxe by Gransfors Bruks.


It does not make me cringe when I watch him. But I am one of those that
believes that the best safety equipment is your mind and your skill, not
gadgets.

He's fairly safe. A newbie doing that would be unsafe. Hmm, did he
appear to be missing that left little toe...?

--
Some people hear voices. Some see invisible people.
Others have no imagination whatsoever.

On Apr 12, 10:03*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
So? *Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

When cutting with an axe, keep it SHARP! However, if splitting wood, u

On Apr 15, 3:12*pm, Nahmie wrote:
On Apr 12, 10:03*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

So? *Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

When cutting with an axe, keep it SHARP! However, if splitting wood, u

Sorry, that one "sent" before I wanted it to! When splitting, use a
dull axe, the theory being that it wedges the the wood fibers apart,
rather than slicing through them with a sharp axe. I caught the devil
one time when I tried to sharpen the woodshed axe.
Nahmie

On 4/15/2011 12:45 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:12:33 -0500, Robert Allison
wrote:

On 4/15/2011 2:24 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Apr 12, 11:37 pm, wrote:

Sharp axes are known to be safer than dull ones!

I guess this guy's axe is pretty damn safe then, but I bet you still
cringe when you watch it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueIB0h4SzHc

R

I love that axe that he has! I am going to have to see about finding
one like that.

That's just a regular, unsided broadaxe, Robert. Some were built for
lefthanded or righthanded people and the blade is offset to one side.
Pics of the various profiles: http://goo.gl/Y2mUd

I like the bearded style 1800s broadaxe by Gransfors Bruks.


It does not make me cringe when I watch him. But I am one of those that
believes that the best safety equipment is your mind and your skill, not
gadgets.

He's fairly safe. A newbie doing that would be unsafe. Hmm, did he
appear to be missing that left little toe...?

--
Some people hear voices. Some see invisible people.
Others have no imagination whatsoever.

$450.00 for an axe! No wonder I don't have one.

--
Robert Allison
New Braunfels, TX

On 4/16/2011 1:09 AM, Robert Allison wrote:

$450.00 for an axe! No wonder I don't have one.

When did Festool get in the axe business?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 21:35:21 -0700 (PDT), Nahmie
wrote:

On Apr 15, 3:12Â*pm, Nahmie wrote:
On Apr 12, 10:03Â*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

So? Â*Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.

--

Â* -MIKE-

Â* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Â* Â* Â*--Elvin Jones Â*(1927-2004)
Â* --
Â*http://mikedrums.com
Â*
Â* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

When cutting with an axe, keep it SHARP! However, if splitting wood, u

Sorry, that one "sent" before I wanted it to! When splitting, use a
dull axe, the theory being that it wedges the the wood fibers apart,
rather than slicing through them with a sharp axe. I caught the devil
one time when I tried to sharpen the woodshed axe.

The person who told you that probably wanted to punish you, Nahmie.
The sharp end starts the split by allowing the splitter to enter the
wood, especially in crosslinked woods. The width of the head or wedge
forces it. Doing it all by brute force takes a lot more energy than
necessary. I'll use a sharp axe, TYVM. Hydraulic splitters don't have
to worry, as they have the mechanical advantage.

P.S: Did you ever get that truck out of that ditch? (Some synapses
never die; memory persists;sorry!) gd&r

--
Some people hear voices. Some see invisible people.
Others have no imagination whatsoever.

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 01:09:04 -0500, Robert Allison
wrote:

On 4/15/2011 12:45 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:12:33 -0500, Robert Allison
wrote:

On 4/15/2011 2:24 AM, RicodJour wrote:
On Apr 12, 11:37 pm, wrote:

Sharp axes are known to be safer than dull ones!

I guess this guy's axe is pretty damn safe then, but I bet you still
cringe when you watch it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueIB0h4SzHc

R

I love that axe that he has! I am going to have to see about finding
one like that.

That's just a regular, unsided broadaxe, Robert. Some were built for
lefthanded or righthanded people and the blade is offset to one side.
Pics of the various profiles: http://goo.gl/Y2mUd

I like the bearded style 1800s broadaxe by Gransfors Bruks.


$450.00 for an axe! No wonder I don't have one.

Yeah, they're truly beauties, but he's a bit too proud of his axes for
my budget. (I think he's in cahoots with that Festool guy.) I found a
broadhatchet, a saw set, and some other tool (3pcs) on eBay for total
delivered price of $14.34. Unfortunately, the handle came separately
and was unusable.

Most everything you buy used will have been abused. Hammering on the
tail, nail chips on the face, cracks and gouges in the handle at the
head. But a little work makes 'em yours, and they'll be every bit as
functional as a very expensive axe.

--
Some people hear voices. Some see invisible people.
Others have no imagination whatsoever.

On 4/16/11 9:04 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 21:35:21 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

On Apr 15, 3:12 pm, wrote:
On Apr 12, 10:03 pm, wrote:

So? Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.

--

-MIKE-

When cutting with an axe, keep it SHARP! However, if splitting wood, u

Sorry, that one "sent" before I wanted it to! When splitting, use a
dull axe, the theory being that it wedges the the wood fibers apart,
rather than slicing through them with a sharp axe. I caught the devil
one time when I tried to sharpen the woodshed axe.

The person who told you that probably wanted to punish you, Nahmie.
The sharp end starts the split by allowing the splitter to enter the
wood, especially in crosslinked woods. The width of the head or wedge
forces it. Doing it all by brute force takes a lot more energy than
necessary. I'll use a sharp axe, TYVM. Hydraulic splitters don't have
to worry, as they have the mechanical advantage.

P.S: Did you ever get that truck out of that ditch? (Some synapses
never die; memory persists;sorry!)gd&r


Yes and no. With the research I've done since posting this, I've found
that an axe (what I asked about) can be scary sharp, and should be kept
pretty darn sharp. A wedge (or maul) should be kept dull and was never
intended to be sharp. A splitting axe (dual purpose) is to be kept sharp
like a regular axe.

For those who care.... I quickly discovered the benefits of an axe that
is sharp enough to "stick" and have to be pulled out, rather than bounce
off.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Apr 16, 12:36*pm, -MIKE- wrote:


For those who care.... I quickly discovered the benefits of an axe that
is sharp enough to "stick" and have to be pulled out, rather than bounce
off.



Makes a whole lotta sense to me. A survey crew I worked on one summer
(we laid out the monument system for Bruce Nuclear Power plant back in
'67) had a few 'axe-men' as well as a few chainsaw guys blazing a
trail to create line-of-sight for the surveyors.
Those ax guys gave those blades a quick file and hone every chance/
break they had. "To stop the ax from bouncing." Those guys would take
care of a 3" maple sapling with a couple of one-handed swipes with a
small ax.

On Apr 16, 9:04*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Fri, 15 Apr 2011 21:35:21 -0700 (PDT), Nahmie
wrote:





On Apr 15, 3:12*pm, Nahmie wrote:
On Apr 12, 10:03*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

So? *Do you keep an axe scary sharp like a knife or not, because there's
too much force applied to the blade?
I'm talking about an axe, not a splitting wedge.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

When cutting with an axe, keep it SHARP! However, if splitting wood, u

Sorry, that one "sent" before I wanted it to! When splitting, use a
dull axe, the theory being that it wedges the *the wood fibers apart,
rather than slicing through them with a sharp axe. I caught the devil
one time when I tried to sharpen the woodshed axe.

The person who told you that probably wanted to punish you, Nahmie.
The sharp end starts the split by allowing the splitter to enter the
wood, especially in crosslinked woods. The width of the head or wedge
forces it. *Doing it all by brute force takes a lot more energy than
necessary. *I'll use a sharp axe, TYVM. Hydraulic splitters don't have
to worry, as they have the mechanical advantage.

P.S: Did you ever get that truck out of that ditch? *(Some synapses
never die; memory persists;sorry!) *gd&r

--
Some people hear voices. Some see invisible people.
Others have no imagination whatsoever.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yup, got the truck out late that night. How did you remember? I'd
forgotten it until you mentioned it.

BTW, that was the same axe my Uncle used for splitting all the time.
It wasn't really DULL dull, just didn't have a real sharp edge. It was
also a double-bit axe, wwith the other end sharpened. I've always
liked a double-bit, just seems to feel better balanced.(to me, anyway)

Long as we're digtging up memories . . . . do you still have the speil
about "dark suckers" Thatb was you, wasn't it?

Nahmie

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 16:23:06 -0700 (PDT), Nahmie
wrote:

On Apr 16, 9:04Â*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
P.S: Did you ever get that truck out of that ditch? Â*(Some synapses
never die; memory persists;sorry!) Â*gd&r


Yup, got the truck out late that night. How did you remember? I'd
forgotten it until you mentioned it.

The incident inspired me. (To what, I have no idea, it just did.)


BTW, that was the same axe my Uncle used for splitting all the time.
It wasn't really DULL dull, just didn't have a real sharp edge. It was
also a double-bit axe, wwith the other end sharpened. I've always
liked a double-bit, just seems to feel better balanced.(to me, anyway)

I agree, and balance is important to me. I get more work done with a 5
or 8# sledge than a 20. OTOH, I have a 5# one-sided sledge with just
a bit of triangular head on the other side. It has caused more misses
than any single hammer I've ever had the misfortune of grabbing.
Someone gave it to me and I haven't been successful in finding a new
home for it. I guess I don't want the karma that might come with
passing it on.


Long as we're digtging up memories . . . . do you still have the speil
about "dark suckers" Thatb was you, wasn't it?

Yeah, I still have it. Someone recently posted it either here on on
Wreck.Metalheads.

And while we're in the land of memories, let us not forget antigrav.

--snip--
Asking the mystic Oracle...

Question: If you drop a buttered piece of bread, it will fall on the
floor butter side down. If a cat is dropped from a window or some
other high and towering place, it will land on its feet.

But if you attach a buttered piece of bread, butter side up to a cat's
back and toss them both out the window? Will the cat land on its feet?
Or will the butter splat on the ground?

And in response, thus spake the Oracle:

Even if you are too lazy to do the experiment yourself you should be
able to deduce the obvious result. The laws of butterology demand that
the butter must hit the ground, and the equally strict laws of feline
aerodynamics demand that the cat can not smash its furry back.

If the combined construct were to land, nature would have no way to
resolve this paradox. Therefore, it simply does not fall.

That's right, you clever mortal, (well, as clever as a mortal can get)
you have discovered the secret of *ANTIGRAVITY*! A buttered cat will,
when released, quickly move to a height where forces of cat-twisting
and butter repulsion are in equilibrium. This equilibrium point can be
modified by scraping off some of the butter, or removing some of the
cat's limbs (not recommended, as it produces an unfavourably high
demand for fresh cats), allowing descent.

Most of the civilized species of the Universe already use this very
principle to drive their ships while within a planetary system. The
loud humming heard by most sighters of UFOs, is, in fact, the purring
of several hundred tabbies.

The one obvious danger is, of course, that if the cats manage to eat
the bread off their backs they will instantly plummet. Of course the
cats *will* land on their feet, but this generally doesn't do them
much good at all, since shortly after they make their graceful landing
several tons of red-hot starship and ****ed off aliens come crashing
down on top of them.

--snip--


--
Threee days before Tucson, Howard Dean explained that the
tea party movement is "the last gasp of the generation that
has trouble with diversity." Rising to the challenge of
lowering his reputation and the tone of public discourse,
Dean smeared tea partiers as racists: They oppose Obama's
agenda, Obama is African-American, ergo...

Let us hope that Dean is the last gasp of the generation
of liberals whose default position in any argument is to
indict opponents as racists. This McCarthyism of the left
-- devoid of intellectual content, unsupported by data --
is a mental tic, not an idea but a tactic for avoiding
engagement with ideas. It expresses limitless contempt for
the American people, who have reciprocated by reducing
liberalism to its current characteristics of electoral
weakness and bad sociology. --George Will 14 JAN 2011
Article titled "Tragedies often spark plenty of analysis"

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 16:23:06 -0700 (PDT), Nahmie
wrote:

On Apr 16, 9:04 am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
P.S: Did you ever get that truck out of that ditch? (Some synapses
never die; memory persists;sorry!) gd&r


Yup, got the truck out late that night. How did you remember? I'd
forgotten it until you mentioned it.

The incident inspired me. (To what, I have no idea, it just did.)


BTW, that was the same axe my Uncle used for splitting all the time.
It wasn't really DULL dull, just didn't have a real sharp edge. It was
also a double-bit axe, wwith the other end sharpened. I've always
liked a double-bit, just seems to feel better balanced.(to me, anyway)

I agree, and balance is important to me. I get more work done with a 5
or 8# sledge than a 20. OTOH, I have a 5# one-sided sledge with just
a bit of triangular head on the other side. It has caused more misses
than any single hammer I've ever had the misfortune of grabbing.
Someone gave it to me and I haven't been successful in finding a new
home for it. I guess I don't want the karma that might come with
passing it on.


Long as we're digtging up memories . . . . do you still have the speil
about "dark suckers" Thatb was you, wasn't it?

Yeah, I still have it. Someone recently posted it either here on on
Wreck.Metalheads.

And while we're in the land of memories, let us not forget antigrav.

--snip--
Asking the mystic Oracle...

Question: If you drop a buttered piece of bread, it will fall on the
floor butter side down. If a cat is dropped from a window or some
other high and towering place, it will land on its feet.

But if you attach a buttered piece of bread, butter side up to a cat's
back and toss them both out the window? Will the cat land on its feet?
Or will the butter splat on the ground?

And in response, thus spake the Oracle:

Even if you are too lazy to do the experiment yourself you should be
able to deduce the obvious result. The laws of butterology demand that
the butter must hit the ground, and the equally strict laws of feline
aerodynamics demand that the cat can not smash its furry back.

If the combined construct were to land, nature would have no way to
resolve this paradox. Therefore, it simply does not fall.

That's right, you clever mortal, (well, as clever as a mortal can get)
you have discovered the secret of *ANTIGRAVITY*! A buttered cat will,
when released, quickly move to a height where forces of cat-twisting
and butter repulsion are in equilibrium. This equilibrium point can be
modified by scraping off some of the butter, or removing some of the
cat's limbs (not recommended, as it produces an unfavourably high
demand for fresh cats), allowing descent.

Most of the civilized species of the Universe already use this very
principle to drive their ships while within a planetary system. The
loud humming heard by most sighters of UFOs, is, in fact, the purring
of several hundred tabbies.

The one obvious danger is, of course, that if the cats manage to eat
the bread off their backs they will instantly plummet. Of course the
cats *will* land on their feet, but this generally doesn't do them
much good at all, since shortly after they make their graceful landing
several tons of red-hot starship and ****ed off aliens come crashing
down on top of them.

--snip--

ROTFL!!

On Apr 16, 10:39*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 16:23:06 -0700 (PDT), Nahmie
wrote:

On Apr 16, 9:04*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
P.S: Did you ever get that truck out of that ditch? *(Some synapses
never die; memory persists;sorry!) *gd&r

Yup, got the truck out late that night. How did you remember? I'd
forgotten it until you mentioned it.

The incident inspired me. (To what, I have no idea, it just did.)

BTW, that was the same axe my Uncle used for splitting all the time.
It wasn't really DULL dull, just didn't have a real sharp edge. It was
also a double-bit axe, wwith the other end sharpened. I've always
liked a double-bit, just seems to feel better balanced.(to me, anyway)

I agree, and balance is important to me. I get more work done with a 5
or 8# sledge than a 20. *OTOH, I have a 5# one-sided sledge with just
a bit of triangular head on the other side. It has caused more misses
than any single hammer I've ever had the misfortune of grabbing.
Someone gave it to me and I haven't been successful in finding a new
home for it. I guess I don't want the karma that might come with
passing it on.

Long as we're digtging up memories . . . . do you still have the speil
about "dark suckers" Thatb was you, wasn't it?

Yeah, I still have it. *Someone recently posted it either here on on
Wreck.Metalheads. *

Aw, c'mon "C-less". I really wanted you to repost it, as I don't
remember seeing it here, and don't frequent Metalheads. (or just email
it to me, my addy is good.

Norm

On Tue, 19 Apr 2011 15:01:13 -0700 (PDT), Nahmie
wrote:

On Apr 16, 10:39Â*pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 16:23:06 -0700 (PDT), Nahmie
wrote:
Long as we're digtging up memories . . . . do you still have the speil
about "dark suckers" Thatb was you, wasn't it?

Yeah, I still have it. Â*Someone recently posted it either here on on
Wreck.Metalheads. Â*

Aw, c'mon "C-less". I really wanted you to repost it, as I don't
remember seeing it here, and don't frequent Metalheads. (or just email
it to me, my addy is good.

Ax and ye shall receive:

--snip--
For years, it has been believed that electric bulbs emit light, but
recent information has proven otherwise. Electric bulbs don't emit
light; they suck dark. Thus, we call these bulbs Dark-Suckers.

The Dark-Sucker Theory and the existence of dark-suckers prove that
dark has mass and is heavier than light.

First, the basis of the Dark-Sucker Theory is that electric bulbs suck
dark.

For example, take the Dark-Sucker in the room you are in. There is
much less dark right next to it than there is elsewhere. The larger
the Dark-Sucker, the greater its capacity to suck dark. Dark-Suckers
in the parking lot have a much greater capacity to suck dark than the
ones in this room.

As it is with all things, Dark-Suckers don't last forever. Once they
are full of dark, they can no longer suck. This is proven by the dark
spot on a full Dark-Sucker.

A candle is a primitive Dark-Sucker. A new candle has a white wick.
You can see that after the first use, the wick turns black,
representing all the dark that has been sucked into it. If you put a
pencil next to the wick of an operating candle, it will turn black.
This is because it got in the way of the dark flowing into the candle.
One of the disadvantages of these primitive Dark-Suckers is their
limited range.

There are also portable Dark-Suckers. In these, the bulbs can't handle
all the dark by themselves and must be aided by a Dark Storage Unit.
When the Dark Storage Unit is full, it must be either emptied or
replaced before the portable Dark-Sucker can operate again.

Dark has mass. When dark goes into a Dark-Sucker, friction from the
mass generates heat. Thus, it is not wise to touch an operating
Dark-Sucker.
Candles present a special problem as the mass must travel into a solid
wick instead of through clear glass. This generates a great amount of
heat and therefore it's not wise to touch an operating candle-type
Dark-Sucker.

Also, dark is heavier than light. If you were to swim just below the
surface of the lake, you would see a lot of light. If you were to
slowly swim deeper and deeper, you would notice it getting darker and
darker. When you get really deep, you would be in total darkness. This
is because the heavier dark sinks to the bottom of the lake and the
lighter light floats at the top. This is why it is called light.

Finally, we must prove that dark is faster than light. If you were to
stand in a lit room in front of a closed, dark closet, and slowly
opened the closet door, you would see the light slowly enter the
closet. But since dark is so fast, you would not be able to see the
dark leave the closet.

Next time you see what is called an electric bulb, remember that it is
really a Dark-Sucker.

- Thanks to Russ Jones, Scoutmaster, Troop 575 & National Jamboree
Troop 1636, South Plains Council, Lubbock, Texas

--snip--

--
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air...
-- Ralph Waldo Emerson