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Default Couple questions

Watched an old NYW today where Norm used some recycled pine boards
(From an old barn) to build a circular table of perhaps 32"-36"
diameter.

The board for the top was in the neighborhood of 12" wide and cupped.

Norm's solution was to kerf each board about 1/2-2/3 thru,
then run them thru the planer allowing the infeed rollers on the
planer
to flatten the board as they went thru the planer.

The jointer and table saw were then used to square up the stock to
prepare for glue up using biscuits.

Prior to glue up the kerf cuts were filled with thickened epoxy and
allowed to cure.

When the epoxy was cured the glue up was completed and allowed to
cure.

Light sanding prepared the rectangular blank for circular cut out
using shop made
band saw jig for cutting out circles.

Now for the questions.

1) Why would you use kerf cuts to make a table top, especially epoxy
filled kerf cuts.

No matter what you do, those filled kerfs are going to show in the
finished piece.

IMHO, no matter what you try to do to hide the kerfs, they are going
to look like ugly
on an ape.

YMMV

Why not just rip the wide boards in half, machine square and
reassemble using standard
glue up techniques?

Done correctly, a flying red horse at 5 ft won't be able to see the
joint.

2) Never have figured out how to position a square blank on Norm's
band saw circle cutting
jig to start the cut without having the blank bind the saw blade.

In the example above, we are talking about an approximate 36" square
blank
yielding about a 32" circle.

What am I missing?

Lew


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Default Couple questions

He starts on a flat & cuts slow to start the cut then drops it on the
pin. Only way I was able to do a 4 footer!

Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage




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Default Couple questions

Didn't he put the kerf side down ?

Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage




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Default Couple questions

In article m,
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Watched an old NYW today where Norm used some recycled pine boards
(From an old barn) to build a circular table of perhaps 32"-36"
diameter.

The board for the top was in the neighborhood of 12" wide and cupped.

Norm's solution was to kerf each board about 1/2-2/3 thru,
then run them thru the planer allowing the infeed rollers on the
planer
to flatten the board as they went thru the planer.

The jointer and table saw were then used to square up the stock to
prepare for glue up using biscuits.

Prior to glue up the kerf cuts were filled with thickened epoxy and
allowed to cure.

When the epoxy was cured the glue up was completed and allowed to
cure.

Light sanding prepared the rectangular blank for circular cut out
using shop made
band saw jig for cutting out circles.

Now for the questions.

1) Why would you use kerf cuts to make a table top, especially epoxy
filled kerf cuts.

No matter what you do, those filled kerfs are going to show in the
finished piece.

IMHO, no matter what you try to do to hide the kerfs, they are going
to look like ugly
on an ape.

YMMV

Why not just rip the wide boards in half, machine square and
reassemble using standard
glue up techniques?

Done correctly, a flying red horse at 5 ft won't be able to see the
joint.

2) Never have figured out how to position a square blank on Norm's
band saw circle cutting
jig to start the cut without having the blank bind the saw blade.

In the example above, we are talking about an approximate 36" square
blank
yielding about a 32" circle.

What am I missing?

Lew



Lew, I'm shocked! I never thought I would see you say that epoxy was NOT
the best way to fix something!

--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
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Default Couple questions

On Sat, 9 Apr 2011 21:57:44 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

2) Never have figured out how to position a square blank on Norm's
band saw circle cutting
jig to start the cut without having the blank bind the saw blade.

In the example above, we are talking about an approximate 36" square
blank
yielding about a 32" circle.

What am I missing?

Lew


The way I do this is to drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the center
of the blank to accept a guide pin that rides in a slotted channel
mounted on the bandsaw table, the pin can be spaced out as far
as needed with waste strips of wood but is free to move out as
far as the lenght of the slot.
You can easily cut any size round from any size square blank by
quickly feeding in the blank as you turn it until you hit the stop.

Hope that made sense.

basilisk


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