Greetings All,
I plan on using Hardiboard as a backer for bathroom tile and it will
sit on 3/4 plywood. What is used to bond the Hardiboard to the ply?
Also, the Hardiboard doesn't have tapered edges like Durock does, is it
ok to tape and mud the joints where the Hardiboard meets?
Lastly, our basement is a little damp and I'd like to know if a
regular dehumidifier is best or if something else is better.
Thanks, Mark

"Mark L." wrote in message
. com...
Greetings All,
I plan on using Hardiboard as a backer for bathroom tile and it will sit
on 3/4 plywood. What is used to bond the Hardiboard to the ply? Also, the
Hardiboard doesn't have tapered edges like Durock does, is it ok to tape
and mud the joints where the Hardiboard meets?
Lastly, our basement is a little damp and I'd like to know if a regular
dehumidifier is best or if something else is better.
Thanks, Mark


I can't address the bathroom question, but as far as the basement, a
dehumidifier's a good idea. But, check Consumer Reports - I believe they did
noise tests on these machines. It's important, especially if you live in a
ranch, where you're sleeping right above the basement. Even with the quieter
ones, you might want to run it with a heavy duty timer, and have it shut off
between certain hours.

For tile concrete board is best, If your basement is below 65f you need
a dehumidifier that wont freeze up Sears and other companies have models
for cold basements. Sizing it is important for a small 600sq ft basement
a 35 pt should be ok, to big a unit will cycle alot, to small may not do
enough.

Mark L. wrote:
Greetings All,
I plan on using Hardiboard as a backer for bathroom tile and it will
sit on 3/4 plywood. What is used to bond the Hardiboard to the ply?

Nails and/or screws. Not a bad idea to bed it into thinset to fill any low
spots.
_____________

Also, the Hardiboard doesn't have tapered edges like Durock does, is
it ok to tape and mud the joints where the Hardiboard meets?

Personally, I wouldn't bother...the thinset used to bed the tiles will fill
any gap.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Tue, 16 May 2006 16:50:45 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Mark L. wrote:
Greetings All,
I plan on using Hardiboard as a backer for bathroom tile and it will
sit on 3/4 plywood. What is used to bond the Hardiboard to the ply?

Nails and/or screws. Not a bad idea to bed it into thinset to fill any low
spots.
_____________

Also, the Hardiboard doesn't have tapered edges like Durock does, is
it ok to tape and mud the joints where the Hardiboard meets?

Personally, I wouldn't bother...the thinset used to bed the tiles will fill
any gap.


Ditto on this opinion. I finished one last year. The Hardiboard has
screws specifically made to install it. Thinset is more a leveling
agent rather than a bonding agent. No need to tape joints.

Frank

I would look real hard for a left over dehumidifier with a 5 year guarantee.
New ones are coming with just 1 year and my big Sears 70 pint unit hasn't
made it that long yet. It was replaced once and fixed once.


"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
For tile concrete board is best, If your basement is below 65f you need
a dehumidifier that wont freeze up Sears and other companies have models
for cold basements. Sizing it is important for a small 600sq ft basement
a 35 pt should be ok, to big a unit will cycle alot, to small may not do
enough.

"Mark L." wrote in message
. com...
Greetings All,
I plan on using Hardiboard as a backer for bathroom tile and it will sit
on 3/4 plywood. What is used to bond the Hardiboard to the ply? Also, the
Hardiboard doesn't have tapered edges like Durock does, is it ok to tape
and mud the joints where the Hardiboard meets?
Lastly, our basement is a little damp and I'd like to know if a regular
dehumidifier is best or if something else is better.
Thanks, Mark

I agree with Dado and Frank about the taping.

The hardiebacker has concave areas (dimples) where the nails or screws are
to be placed. That is a lot of nails if you are doing it by hand. Last time
I did half of a 12x18 room I was worn out from pounding. Most of the pros
around here just use 2" galvanized RS nails fired from a paslode or air
nailer.

Don't know a thing about the humidifier but the advice you have gotten
sounds right.


Colbyt

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 May 2006 16:50:45 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Mark L. wrote:
Greetings All,
I plan on using Hardiboard as a backer for bathroom tile and it will
sit on 3/4 plywood. What is used to bond the Hardiboard to the ply?

Nails and/or screws. Not a bad idea to bed it into thinset to fill any
low
spots.
_____________

Also, the Hardiboard doesn't have tapered edges like Durock does, is
it ok to tape and mud the joints where the Hardiboard meets?

Personally, I wouldn't bother...the thinset used to bed the tiles will
fill
any gap.


Ditto on this opinion. I finished one last year. The Hardiboard has
screws specifically made to install it. Thinset is more a leveling
agent rather than a bonding agent. No need to tape joints.

Frank

Those "special" screws are just square drive. But, they *did* do nice job.
And they didn't break, either.

On Tue, 16 May 2006 19:42:28 -0400, "ng_reader"
wrote:


"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 16 May 2006 16:50:45 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Mark L. wrote:
Greetings All,
I plan on using Hardiboard as a backer for bathroom tile and it will
sit on 3/4 plywood. What is used to bond the Hardiboard to the ply?

Nails and/or screws. Not a bad idea to bed it into thinset to fill any
low
spots.
_____________

Also, the Hardiboard doesn't have tapered edges like Durock does, is
it ok to tape and mud the joints where the Hardiboard meets?

Personally, I wouldn't bother...the thinset used to bed the tiles will
fill
any gap.


Ditto on this opinion. I finished one last year. The Hardiboard has
screws specifically made to install it. Thinset is more a leveling
agent rather than a bonding agent. No need to tape joints.

Frank

Those "special" screws are just square drive. But, they *did* do nice job.
And they didn't break, either.


Actually, they are a little more than just square drive. The point
design and the serated thread is specifically for self tapping in
either wood or steel. Additionally, the head has cutting flutes for
self countersinking without cracking or stressing the board because of
seating torsion. The coating is designed to take the basic ph
condition without corrosion even if moisture gets to them in the
future.

and square drive is the only way to go.

Expensive, but well worth it in my opinion.

Frank