I am a novice woodworker and have a basic question but couldn't find
quite the answer in the forum when I searched.

I live in Rochester, NY where it gets very humid in the summer and
fairly dry in the winter. I buy my hardwood from a local supplier who
kiln dries it and then stores it unstickered in his large barn
anywhere from days to years. I bring it home and sticker it in my
garage for weeks to months. Everything I have read (including this
month's article in FWW) says to let the wood acclimate to the shop
environment for some time before working the wood.

My question is this: Do I really want to let my wood acclimate to my
shop environment at 90% Rh in the summer, build my project, and then
put it in my house where it will reside at 30-50% Rh?

It seems to me that if I let it acclimate and accumulate % moisture
levels in the teens, work it, glue it, etc. and then put it in a lower
moisture setting that the project is doomed but I don't know what else
to do (other than fully insulate my garage and put in a dehumidifier
and maybe AC unit).

Please help!

Stan,
Typically you herre thata the wood should aacclimatize to your shop for two
weeks. But as you describe your setup, your wood is ready to work. Then your
question is a valid one i.e. does the wood acclimatized to your shop become a
problem in the final resting place of different conditions?
My answer is you are doing as much as you can to help the wood settle. There
will always be different conditions for furniture. Your design will try to
answer that as much as possible, i.e. floating panels, breadboards ends, etc.
Beyond that, there isnt much you can do. That is why antiques that werre built
by masters can have cracks and splits.
I say, do the best you can and then enjoy what nature adds to the picture.

I generally work on the principal that people keep their homes comfortable
to live in so I keep the shop comfortable to work in when I have a project
in progress.

So far so good.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Stan" wrote in message
om...
I am a novice woodworker and have a basic question but couldn't find
quite the answer in the forum when I searched.

I live in Rochester, NY where it gets very humid in the summer and
fairly dry in the winter. I buy my hardwood from a local supplier who
kiln dries it and then stores it unstickered in his large barn
anywhere from days to years. I bring it home and sticker it in my
garage for weeks to months. Everything I have read (including this
month's article in FWW) says to let the wood acclimate to the shop
environment for some time before working the wood.

My question is this: Do I really want to let my wood acclimate to my
shop environment at 90% Rh in the summer, build my project, and then
put it in my house where it will reside at 30-50% Rh?

It seems to me that if I let it acclimate and accumulate % moisture
levels in the teens, work it, glue it, etc. and then put it in a lower
moisture setting that the project is doomed but I don't know what else
to do (other than fully insulate my garage and put in a dehumidifier
and maybe AC unit).

Please help!

As long as I buy dried wood, I don't worry about it at all. I have been
doing serious wood working since 1978 and have never had a problem. That
said, you should anticipate wood movement with all your projects and plan
accordingly for movement. You are never really ever going to be able to
control the environment that the pieces end up in all the time.
If you look at furniture in a furniture store the warehouse environment is
ever changing and all over the scale when considering all locations in the
country. Top that with 100 times more environments that the furniture will
end up in on peoples homes.

Strother Purdy taught me to use a moisture meter on your workbench, and match
the wood with that (on the grounds that your workbench has spent a long time in
that environment).

I would argue that you *DO* want to acclimate it to your shop rather than
your home.

Imagine that you are making a cabinet door. You rough-cut and mill the rails
and stiles into "perfect" rectangles. Then You have to go to work for the
week and don't get back to it until next weekend. Lets say some warpage
occurs during the week. You will now be using a curved reference face to
mill your tennons. You will end up with (albeit slightly) tennons pointing
in the wrong direction, or at least less tight joinery than otherwise.

IMHO I would rather have stresses applied *after* complete milling and
assembly. seasonal stresses are going to happen eventually anyway. Get the
milling and assembly done while everything is square.

By acclimating to other than shop conditions would will encounter more
movement during the building process. It would be best to minimize that.



"Stan" wrote in message
om...
I am a novice woodworker and have a basic question but couldn't find
quite the answer in the forum when I searched.

I live in Rochester, NY where it gets very humid in the summer and
fairly dry in the winter. I buy my hardwood from a local supplier who
kiln dries it and then stores it unstickered in his large barn
anywhere from days to years. I bring it home and sticker it in my
garage for weeks to months. Everything I have read (including this
month's article in FWW) says to let the wood acclimate to the shop
environment for some time before working the wood.

My question is this: Do I really want to let my wood acclimate to my
shop environment at 90% Rh in the summer, build my project, and then
put it in my house where it will reside at 30-50% Rh?

It seems to me that if I let it acclimate and accumulate % moisture
levels in the teens, work it, glue it, etc. and then put it in a lower
moisture setting that the project is doomed but I don't know what else
to do (other than fully insulate my garage and put in a dehumidifier
and maybe AC unit).

Please help!

Sounds great, but wouldn't it be better to match it against your nightstand
if the furniture's going inside?

Check with the cheeseheads for good wood info.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/TMU/publications.htm

"DarylRos" wrote in message
...
Strother Purdy taught me to use a moisture meter on your workbench, and
match
the wood with that (on the grounds that your workbench has spent a long
time in
that environment).

No absolute experience either way, but I am currently fixing panels
for a bed which were left in the shop after being edged and joined.
They had been in the shop for a month or so. When I took them into
the house the other day I noticed they all had bowed substantially.

Two the same direction, the third the opposite. These were all 29"
long about 19" wide made up of 3 beech flatsawn boards. They were in
the same order of boards, but as I saw one went the opposite way of
the others. I ended up cutting them apart, flipping boards all around
to orient grain in different directions, hand jointing them and gluing
them back together.

Not sure what it all means, but I've moved the other panels into the
house this time.

Alan

Hey Stan,

I'm north of you, and have the same challenge, when it comes to humidity
fluctuations.

I think it depends on where you are with your woodworking. If my shop gets
out of control, with higher or lower humidity levels that are workable, then
I'll take precautions, during certain stages of a project.

In a situation where I can't control humidity levels in the shop, and I'm
down to final hand planing/scraping and dry run, I'll store the components
of a project in a stable, similiar environment, to where the project will
end up living.

If this means storing components for a project in a spare bedroom in the
house, becase it's the closest match of environment, and carrying them back
and forth daily, so be it.

Try to design your jointery, to hide most natural, minor, seasonal wood
movement, the last thing you want on a fine piece is a glueline, minute gap
or a noticable component offset due to swelling/shrinkage. Using small
offsets between components in your design, adds detail to your work, and
allows for seasonal movement (eg: setting back an apron a 1/16-1/8 from a
leg face on a table, adds detail, but also allows for some un-noticable
movement, compared to having a flush apron and leg joint, where either the
leg or apron moves more than the other, not equally at all corners, and
becomes very noticable).

I guess the bottom line is, the closer the humidty level of you storage/shop
to the final resting area of you project, the better. If you can't control
environment, engineer the jointery/design for calculated seasonal movement.

Cheers and good luck,

aw