On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and
the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use
a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper


What are you doing with the other hand that you can't use it? G

Max

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and
the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use
a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper

For me, that would be carpal tunnel syndrome, weak hands, arthritic fingers,
amassed scar tissue from countless sprains and bumps and bruises. I like
the ability to adjust the pressure I put on the handle, although I don't
like it when you reach the end of your travel, and you have to get hold of
the next handle on the three spoked versions. I think if you were only
doing light pressure work with a wheeled type, it would be beneficial and a
little more precise.

Must be some reason, as I've never seen one. One would not be hard to
build, then test and find the weak spots.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Download the book $10
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Just saw a review of benchtop drill presses.
The craftsman had a great handle. It stuck out at a right angle and
allowed one grip, the handle rotated. Much like the wheel you your tablesaw.

On 2/14/2011 9:36 PM, Steve B wrote:
"Puckdropper"puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
eb.com...
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and
the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use
a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper

For me, that would be carpal tunnel syndrome, weak hands, arthritic fingers,
amassed scar tissue from countless sprains and bumps and bruises. I like
the ability to adjust the pressure I put on the handle, although I don't
like it when you reach the end of your travel, and you have to get hold of
the next handle on the three spoked versions. I think if you were only
doing light pressure work with a wheeled type, it would be beneficial and a
little more precise.

Must be some reason, as I've never seen one. One would not be hard to
build, then test and find the weak spots.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Download the book $10
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Puckdropper wrote:
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head?


Am I missing major drawbacks?

Leverage (how big is the wheel)? I suspect the popular 3-handled
solution is the result of the fact that the 3-handled solution is
probably comparatively pretty cheap. When I read reviews, I see
complaints about things as seemingly-simple as depth stops.
Intuitively, it seems a wheel might be nice for very precise drilling
applications where you are drilling holes with little depth. Lathes and
TSs use wheels...

Bil




Puckdropper

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 18:36:32 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
web.com...
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and
the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use
a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper

For me, that would be carpal tunnel syndrome, weak hands, arthritic fingers,
amassed scar tissue from countless sprains and bumps and bruises. I like
the ability to adjust the pressure I put on the handle, although I don't
like it when you reach the end of your travel, and you have to get hold of
the next handle on the three spoked versions. I think if you were only
doing light pressure work with a wheeled type, it would be beneficial and a
little more precise.

Must be some reason, as I've never seen one. One would not be hard to
build, then test and find the weak spots.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Download the book $10
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

I've seen them with hand-wheels from the factory - can't remember what
manufacture - and I've also seen quite a few with aluminum or zinc "V"
belt pulleys installed to take the place of the handles. - you know,
the 3 spoked "utility" type pulleys.

I remember one old drill press used to be in a machineshop in my home
town years ago that had a wheel with a self-retracting knob - with it
flipped out you could wind it quickly, and with it retracted you could
hand-over-hand it quite accurately. It was almost like a flywheel. It
MAY have been made by the machinist himself, as he built a LOT of his
own machinery, and modified most of the rest.

I don't understand the problem. I just went out and tried my own drill
press. I grasp one of those 3 handles by the ball on the end and pull
it toward me and down (let's say from 12 o'clock to 9 o'clock) to
start the spindle downward. Then I simply let the ball slide in my
fingers while I continue rotating (now, from 9 o'clock toward 6 o'clock)
only now I am pushing the handle down and away from me, then pushing
away and upward (from 6 o'clock to 3 o'clock) and finally, to complete
one whole rotation, pulling up and toward me (as it moves from 3 o'clock
to 12 o'clock). I can go round and round with no problems.
If you can't do this, then a wheel wouldn't help, unless it had a
handle sticking out. My vertical mill has one of those.

If this motion does not make sense to you or others, I suppose I could
do a video, but it would only be about 3 seconds long.

Pete Stanaitis
-------------

Puckdropper wrote:

On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper

On Mon, 14 Feb 2011 21:56:05 -0500, Bill wrote:

Puckdropper wrote:
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head?


Am I missing major drawbacks?

Leverage (how big is the wheel)? I suspect the popular 3-handled
solution is the result of the fact that the 3-handled solution is
probably comparatively pretty cheap. When I read reviews, I see
complaints about things as seemingly-simple as depth stops.
Intuitively, it seems a wheel might be nice for very precise drilling
applications where you are drilling holes with little depth. Lathes and
TSs use wheels...

Bil




Puckdropper

A 12 inch pulley gives about the same leverage as most 3-bar handles
and gives you the infinite control as well.

On 15 Feb 2011 02:17:11 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

I like the setup on the shopsmith.. Only one handle/lever and it's
short enough to spin 360 degrees if your drilling something that
thick..
Oersonally, If I set my table height to just below the tip of the
drill bit, I don't have a lot of travel to worry about..
You drilling through 8 or 10" thick stuff?

On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper

"Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that
use a wheel to advance the head? *Am I missing major drawbacks?
Puckdropper"

I just saw an article (did not save it/bookmark it - sorry) about a
fellow who exchanged the three handles for a large Pulley (maybe ten
inches or so) and fixed a cord to it and the cord to a couple of
pulleys mounted to the wall behind the drill press tying it off at a
paddle affair mounted on the floor.

He could, then, hold the work with both hands - should the need or
desire arise - and use the paddle affair on the floor to drill the
hole(s).

I met a fellow in Florida a few years back who had modified his drill
press so that the spindle could be made to "oscillate" up and down
while turning. This feature allowed him to attach a drum sander to the
press to finish work.

Back to the first "guy," guys, it would seem that, where the pulley
large enough, it would serve as implied by the OP - although a smaller
pulley would be better for the foot-operated approach as the limited
range of the foot paddle (6" or so, as I recall) would significantly
reduce the spindle travel were the wheel attached thereto very large.

I wonder if one of those automotive steering wheel replacements (J.C.
Whitney) wouldn't make a real comfy drill press wheel at a reasonable
price. Years ago they sold some rather small replacement wheels -
maybe ten inches in diameter. The spokes on some of these are set at
an angle that should provide the requisite clearance.

" although I don't like it when you reach the end of your travel, "

Well then, how about a Wheel with one of those knobs attached? I think
those that were sold to be attached to the steering wheels of cars
were referred to as "Suicide Knobs," but that might just have been "my
crowd."

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:47:22 -0800, Hoosierpopi wrote:

I think
those that were sold to be attached to the steering wheels of cars were
referred to as "Suicide Knobs," but that might just have been "my crowd.

We called them that as well.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:47:22 -0800, Hoosierpopi wrote:

I think
those that were sold to be attached to the steering wheels of cars were
referred to as "Suicide Knobs," but that might just have been "my crowd.

We called them that as well.

The story I heard was that was because some people managed to get their
shirt sleeves tangled up in the thing and got into accidents.

I remember driving old trucks that had big steering wheels and needed a lot
of turns to turn the vehicle sharply. We installed those knobs on them.
Back in the day before power steering.

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 13:36:37 -0500, "Lee Michaels"
leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:



"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:47:22 -0800, Hoosierpopi wrote:

I think
those that were sold to be attached to the steering wheels of cars were
referred to as "Suicide Knobs," but that might just have been "my crowd.

We called them that as well.

The story I heard was that was because some people managed to get their
shirt sleeves tangled up in the thing and got into accidents.

I remember driving old trucks that had big steering wheels and needed a lot
of turns to turn the vehicle sharply. We installed those knobs on them.
Back in the day before power steering.

I had one on my '57 Chebby. It really took a lot to turn that 22"
steering wheel, too. The few times I lost my grip on the suicide
knob, I ended up doing bodily harm to myself. (once, a fist in the
nuts) Yeah, they were dangerous, alright.

--
The ultimate result of shielding men from the
effects of folly is to fill the world with fools.
--Herbert Spencer

In article om, "Lee
Michaels" says...

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:47:22 -0800, Hoosierpopi wrote:

I think
those that were sold to be attached to the steering wheels of cars were
referred to as "Suicide Knobs," but that might just have been "my crowd.

We called them that as well.

The story I heard was that was because some people managed to get their
shirt sleeves tangled up in the thing and got into accidents.

I remember driving old trucks that had big steering wheels and needed a lot
of turns to turn the vehicle sharply. We installed those knobs on them.
Back in the day before power steering.

Back in the days when bench seats were standard they were called
"necker's knobs" as they made it easier to drive with one hand on the
wheel and one hand on various parts of the passenger's anatomy.

The major safety concern at the time IIRC was that in a crash one was
likely to recieve significant blunt force trauma from the knob (I don't
think they called it "blunt force trauma" at the time but don't recall
what term was used).

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
I had one on my '57 Chebby. It really took a lot to turn that 22"
steering wheel, too. The few times I lost my grip on the suicide
knob, I ended up doing bodily harm to myself. (once, a fist in the
nuts) Yeah, they were dangerous, alright.

For awhile, I used one on my '64 Rambler station wagon . The car didn't have
power steering and the one handed quick steering action was fun to use, but
I do admit that it always made me feel a little aprehensive. I had visions
of the knob breaking off the steering wheel while I was using it.

On Feb 15, 2:28*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
In article om, "Lee
Michaels" says...







"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:47:22 -0800, Hoosierpopi wrote:

*I think
those that were sold to be attached to the steering wheels of cars were
referred to as "Suicide Knobs," but that might just have been "my crowd.

We called them that as well.

The story I heard was that was because some people managed to get their
shirt sleeves tangled up in the thing and got into accidents.

I remember driving old trucks that had big steering wheels and needed a lot
of turns to turn the vehicle sharply. *We installed those knobs on them.
Back in the day before power steering.

Back in the days when bench seats were standard they were called
"necker's knobs" as they made it easier to drive with one hand on the
wheel and one hand on various parts of the passenger's anatomy.

Bet the guy never complained either, eh?

In article om,
Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper


On many drill presses it's possible with a combination of workpiece, bit,
and taple position, for full rotation of the handle to be blocked. With
the 3 handles, you can then unscrew them one at a time and reinstall as
you advance the drill head downwards. A less common arrangement, usually
seen on older presses, is a sliding T-handle like a vise, that also avoids
blocking the press feed handle with the workpiece or table.


--
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (H L Mencken)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

On Tue, 15 Feb 2011 07:47:22 -0800 (PST), Hoosierpopi
wrote:

" although I don't like it when you reach the end of your travel, "

Well then, how about a Wheel with one of those knobs attached? I think
those that were sold to be attached to the steering wheels of cars
were referred to as "Suicide Knobs," but that might just have been "my
crowd."

"Necking knobs" on the 55 Chevy - "thumb busters" on the 44 Massey!!!!

I recently got a Suicide Knob for my riding mower, for use when the
snow plow blade is attached. Got it at the local NAPA store. I
wasn't sure they even made them anymore.

As to the drill press, I'm going to look into a wheel for mine. Sure
seems like a good idea. Metal would be ideal, but I might see if I
could make one from wood. Maybe 1-2" thick, 10" dia. Have to see how
to attach to the drill press.

rich wrote:
I recently got a Suicide Knob for my riding mower, for use when the
snow plow blade is attached. Got it at the local NAPA store. I
wasn't sure they even made them anymore.

As to the drill press, I'm going to look into a wheel for mine. Sure
seems like a good idea. Metal would be ideal, but I might see if I
could make one from wood. Maybe 1-2" thick, 10" dia. Have to see how
to attach to the drill press.

I can't see how a wheel would be any advantage. If you are going to
have to reach up and grab another knob, you would have to reach up and
grab a new spot on a wheel. Why not just put a spinner knob on one of
the three handles. Seems like a wheel would get in the way more.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

One day I shall burst my bud of calm
and blossom forth into hysteria.

On 2/16/11 3:53 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
I can't see how a wheel would be any advantage. If you are going to have
to reach up and grab another knob, you would have to reach up and grab a
new spot on a wheel. Why not just put a spinner knob on one of the three
handles. Seems like a wheel would get in the way more.


DING DING DING DING!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Take a look at this Craftsman handle.

Looks like a good idea. I wonder if you can buy the handle and retro fit
to your unit.
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...5&blockType=L5

On 2/16/2011 4:53 PM, Gerald Ross wrote:
rich wrote:
I recently got a Suicide Knob for my riding mower, for use when the
snow plow blade is attached. Got it at the local NAPA store. I
wasn't sure they even made them anymore.

As to the drill press, I'm going to look into a wheel for mine. Sure
seems like a good idea. Metal would be ideal, but I might see if I
could make one from wood. Maybe 1-2" thick, 10" dia. Have to see how
to attach to the drill press.

I can't see how a wheel would be any advantage. If you are going to have
to reach up and grab another knob, you would have to reach up and grab a
new spot on a wheel. Why not just put a spinner knob on one of the three
handles. Seems like a wheel would get in the way more.

The three handles are a pain in the ass but a wheel would be just as hard to
shift grabs. As most know when you need to "regrab" the wheel / lever wants
to return to the full upright position again.

The suicide knob may work but the torque and lack of leverage may be a
problem for tougher "presses".

Some sort of two level gearing would be real nice. High ratio for fast
turning and low ratio for the actual "press" and contact part f the
operation. Sound too complicated to implement? There used to be a old
high-low bicycle transmission that would change by jerking the peddle
backwards. I was never sure how it worked.

Perhaps a sliding suicide knob that can implement quick turns when
retratcted into the centre of the wheel and then slide out for better
leverage and pressure? Spring return to centre of wheel, of course.



"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
I can't see how a wheel would be any advantage. If you are going to
have to reach up and grab another knob, you would have to reach up and
grab a new spot on a wheel. Why not just put a spinner knob on one of
the three handles. Seems like a wheel would get in the way more.



rich wrote:
I recently got a Suicide Knob for my riding mower, for use when the
snow plow blade is attached. Got it at the local NAPA store. I
wasn't sure they even made them anymore.

As to the drill press, I'm going to look into a wheel for mine. Sure
seems like a good idea. Metal would be ideal, but I might see if I
could make one from wood. Maybe 1-2" thick, 10" dia. Have to see how
to attach to the drill press.


..

On Feb 15, 5:31*pm, (Larry W) wrote:
In article om,

Puckdropper *puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. *Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head? *Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper

On many drill presses it's possible with a combination of workpiece, bit,
and taple position, for full rotation of the handle to be blocked. With
the 3 handles, you can then unscrew them one at a time and reinstall as
you advance the drill head downwards. A less common arrangement, usually
seen on older presses, is a sliding T-handle like a vise, that also avoids
blocking the press feed handle with the workpiece or table.

--
* * There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
* * plausible, and wrong." * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *(H L Mencken)

* * *Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Right. It's faster to remove the interfering handle than to break
down and reset a jig or fixture.

On 15 Feb 2011 02:17:11 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper


I have been contemplating going to wally world and picking up a
suicide knob. remember those? I wonder if one could be mounted to one
of the DP handles? :-]

skeez

On Feb 18, 1:56*pm, skeez wrote:
On 15 Feb 2011 02:17:11 GMT, Puckdropper

puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
On every drill press I've seen and used, the drill head has been moved up
and down by a 3 handled spindle. *Moving it up and down large distances
requires the use of two hands, one to keep the head from retracting and the
other to switch to the next handle.

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head? *Am I missing major drawbacks?

Puckdropper

I have been contemplating going to wally world and picking up a
suicide knob. remember those? I wonder if one could be mounted to one
of the DP handles? :-]

skeez

1 in 3 chance it'll be on the right handle. Best to install
one on each.

Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com writes:

Rather than the 3 handles, are there any drill presses out there that use a
wheel to advance the head? Am I missing major drawbacks?

There are times I have to remove one of the handles to prevent the
handle from hitting the odd-shaped piece of wood.