Black, liquid dye, on maple. Any way to get it soaked in deeply
enough --
1/16" or so -- that light sanding won't burn through it?

Avoid sanding so aggressively. Just what are you sanding, the raised
wood fibers, nibs and such? To avoid as many nibs, like raised wood
fibers, wipe your piece with just alcohol first, to get those nibs to
rise, then sand them. Repeat this process if need be. This way,
there won't be so many to sand after applying the dye stain.

Beyond the nibs and such, the stained piece should, ideally, not need
to be sanded.

Sonny

On Jan 17, 8:04*am, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
Nice table.
Curious, did you turn the legs on a lathe, or do them by hand or router
table?


Well... he said sheepishly... this was a kit from Bartleys
Collections.

I bough the kit as part of my competitive research; I am going int the
kit business hopefully. Then I wanted to do a real world test of a
curly maple finish I have been working on. So I built the kit to
testthe finish on a real piece. So I am super happy and proud of the
finish but all the milling was done by the guys as www.bartleycollection.com

Black stain that doesn't muddy the grain, that shows off PVC
resin inlay. *Transtint in water doesn't stick to plastic as much
as Transtint in alcohol (good), but the color on maple is more
red-black than black-black (not so good). *Still have a few
inor bugs to work out.- Hide quoted text -

You can do second coats and it will darken. The color will look very
different once you apply some lacquer or shellac or whatever.
Dramaticially different. Dye colors always look like a mistake, dull,
gray, flat until you hitthem with some film finish or oil. Then they
pop!

You might look into ebonizing. One method to do this is to dissolve
steel wool in vinegar. Do a google on ebonizing. Here is one result
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...zing_Wood.html

On Jan 16, 6:32*pm, Ferd Farkel wrote:
Black, liquid dye, on maple. *Any way to get it soaked in deeply
enough --
1/16" or so -- that light sanding won't burn through it?

Look here for an even better method of ebonizing

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/ar...bonizing_Wood/

On Jan 17, 12:51*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
Black stain that doesn't muddy the grain, that shows off PVC
resin inlay. *Transtint in water doesn't stick to plastic as much
as Transtint in alcohol (good), but the color on maple is more
red-black than black-black (not so good). *Still have a few
inor bugs to work out.- Hide quoted text -

You can do second coats and it will darken. The color will look very
different once you apply some lacquer or shellac or whatever.
Dramaticially different. Dye colors always look like a mistake, dull,
gray, flat until you hitthem with some film finish or oil. Then they
pop!

You might look into ebonizing. One method to do this is to dissolve
steel wool in vinegar. Do a google on ebonizing. Here is one resulthttp://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Ebonizing_Wood.html

Tried it. Works okay, but Transtint black looks a _lot_
deeper, results are much more predictable.