My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I
designed last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges"
feature, that lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out
if you like. In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same
way you do he

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the
new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with
SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square
before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still
free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then
build a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries,
and perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do
that with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let me
try to push you into anything--that was just my little motivational
talk! Have fun!

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I designed
last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges" feature, that
lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out if you like.
In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same way you do he

Not meaning to take the wind out of your sales here. ;~) That is indeed a
cool newish feature. I noticed that on the previous November release, IIRC.
It is more of a "true" hidden line feature now, how you would hand draw
isometrically.





http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the
new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with
SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square
before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still
free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then build
a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries, and
perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do that
with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let me try to
push you into anything--that was just my little motivational talk!
Have fun!

Bill

LOL, I dropped AutoCAD for Sketchup.

Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...

My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I designed
last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges" feature, that
lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out if you like.
In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same way you do he

Not meaning to take the wind out of your sales here. ;~) That is indeed a
cool newish feature. I noticed that on the previous November release, IIRC.
It is more of a "true" hidden line feature now, how you would hand draw
isometrically.


Leon, Thank you clarifying. My sails are not deflated in the least. I
may have been "too busy for an update" at the moment I was offered the
November release. This thread ties in nicely with the recent "Design"
thread. I think the comment you made there about "Design being both part
of the work as well as part of the fun", captures the spirit of what is
going on very nicely. SketchUp, of course, is an enabler ('case there's
any non-believers left in the room). : )

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...

My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I designed
last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges" feature, that
lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out if you like.
In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same way you do he

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the
new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with
SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square
before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still
free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then build
a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries, and
perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do that
with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let me try to
push you into anything--that was just my little motivational talk!
Have fun!

Bill


I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is necessary for
the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each side and mount the wheels
on the outside of the frame on the underside of the extended deck boards.
My reasons a 1.) You want to have the widest base possible while moving a
top heavy beast like a drill press. Picture getting it moving, and a wheel
hits a cord or nail or block of wood on the floor. The DP stops suddenly,
trying to tip it over. 2) When, not if, a wheel gets hung up on a nail or
cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to identify which wheel is
blocked, and then be able to reach down and remove the obstruction. You can
not do that if you can not see it, or reach it.

Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.

Right, everyone?
--
Jim in NC

Morgans wrote:

"Bill" wrote in message
...

My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use
the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I
designed last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges"
feature, that lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it
out if you like. In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the
same way you do he

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite/

There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the
new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with
SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square
before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still
free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then
build a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries,
and perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do
that with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let
me try to push you into anything--that was just my little motivational
talk! Have fun!

Bill


I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is necessary
for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each side and mount the
wheels on the outside of the frame on the underside of the extended deck
boards. My reasons a 1.) You want to have the widest base possible
while moving a top heavy beast like a drill press. Picture getting it
moving, and a wheel hits a cord or nail or block of wood on the floor.
The DP stops suddenly, trying to tip it over.

My thinking was that the lugs would still be there to keep it from
tipping too far. My first design was more like you described, I think.
I did, by the way, end up with 4" wheels (4 x $12.96 at Home Depot for
anyone considering building their own), so maybe the problem you
describe below will be less of a problem. I promise I will keep your
advise in mind. It will not be too difficult to switch from one design
to the other if I experience difficulties. I've already cut the wood.

Bill


2) When, not if, a wheel
gets hung up on a nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to
identify which wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and
remove the obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or
reach it.

Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.

Right, everyone?

Morgans wrote:


I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is
necessary for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees)

Nah - I'd be good with just 360 degrees. I know that some like 369 degrees,
but I'm kind of old school on this thought...


on each side
and mount the wheels on the outside of the frame on the underside of
the extended deck boards. My reasons a 1.) You want to have the
widest base possible while moving a top heavy beast like a drill
press.

There is a point of diminishing returns. He's already over specing this
thing and wheels on the inside provide a lot of stability. At a point, more
is not really more.

Picture getting it moving, and a wheel hits a cord or nail or
block of wood on the floor. The DP stops suddenly, trying to tip it
over.

Picture this - move your cords out of the way - it's much better for the
cords. Move it slowly - we don't need to be doing highway speeds here.
Ok - funny aside, he's got plenty of protection against that type of
occurrance.


2) When, not if, a wheel gets hung up on a nail or cord or
scrap of wood,

Why does everybody say "when, not if"? Ya know what - I don't encounter
these problems. I use a little common sense and voila - when usually does
not occur. If when does occur, then it's mitigated by such things as moving
at a reasonable speed, stability that Bill has already over-designed in, and
a little forethought in what I'm doing. When does not always trump if.

you want to be able to identify which wheel is
blocked, and then be able to reach down and remove the obstruction. You
can not do that if you can not see it, or reach it.
Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.

Right, everyone?

Ummmmmm.... not so much.

--

-Mike-

"Lew Hodgett" wrote

Given a two wheeled hand truck and a Come-A-Long to secure DP while
moving, who needs casters?

I don't even resort to that, since mine is pretty darn stationary. It
would be more trouble than it is worth, if it were being moved often, IMHO.
--
Jim in NC

"Bill" wrote in message
...
Morgans wrote:

I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is necessary
for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each side and mount the
wheels on the outside of the frame on the underside of the extended deck
boards. My reasons a 1.) You want to have the widest base possible
while moving a top heavy beast like a drill press. Picture getting it
moving, and a wheel hits a cord or nail or block of wood on the floor.
The DP stops suddenly, trying to tip it over.

My thinking was that the lugs would still be there to keep it from tipping
too far. My first design was more like you described, I think.
I did, by the way, end up with 4" wheels (4 x $12.96 at Home Depot for
anyone considering building their own), so maybe the problem you describe
below will be less of a problem. I promise I will keep your advise in
mind. It will not be too difficult to switch from one design to the other
if I experience difficulties. I've already cut the wood.

Bill


2) When, not if, a wheel
gets hung up on a nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to
identify which wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and
remove the obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or
reach it.

Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.

Right, everyone?

I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter, Very
stable when setting on the leveling screws.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

Bill


2) When, not if, a wheel
gets hung up on a nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to
identify which wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and
remove the obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or
reach it.

Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.

Right, everyone?

I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter, Very
stable when setting on the leveling screws.

Actually as far as mobility goes it really is not bad for moving from the
garage to a lift gate on a moving truck, back to the lift gateand back into
the new shop. Stable enough, Right Swingman?

On 1/15/2011 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:

I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter, Very
stable when setting on the leveling screws.

Actually as far as mobility goes it really is not bad for moving from the
garage to a lift gate on a moving truck, back to the lift gateand back into
the new shop. Stable enough, Right Swingman?

Works like a charm. If I do say so myself, we're getting pretty damn
good at moving entire shops of heavy machinery with just two of us and
the lift on the back of a 14' box truck ...

This last time the only thing I was concerned with was your big Laguna
band saw ... It'd killed my soul to see that gorgeous piece of machinery
fall over!

I still cringe when I even consider the possibility.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
On 1/15/2011 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:

I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter,
Very
stable when setting on the leveling screws.

Actually as far as mobility goes it really is not bad for moving from the
garage to a lift gate on a moving truck, back to the lift gateand back
into
the new shop. Stable enough, Right Swingman?

Works like a charm. If I do say so myself, we're getting pretty damn good
at moving entire shops of heavy machinery with just two of us and the lift
on the back of a 14' box truck ...

This last time the only thing I was concerned with was your big Laguna
band saw ... It'd killed my soul to see that gorgeous piece of machinery
fall over!

I still cringe when I even consider the possibility.

Ah wud'n a skeerd. No worse for wear, cut through 30 rawhide chewys
licked'd split.

"Bill" wrote

Jim, Didn't you say you made yours from 4by4s?

Nope, I have access to metal working stuff and welder. My TS wheels have an
angle iron base.
--
Jim in NC

Morgans wrote:

"Bill" wrote

Jim, Didn't you say you made yours from 4by4s?

Nope, I have access to metal working stuff and welder. My TS wheels have
an angle iron base.

Thanks, you really helped give me a good lesson on mobile bases!

Bill