I have a chair that needs fixing. It has dowels that hold a curved arm in
place, and the dowels have been broken. I need to drill it out and replace
the dowels, and glue it back.

I have various sorts of glues in my shop, all seem to be old, separated, or
hard. So, I'll be off to buy a new container of glue. For joining raw
wood, what is the best? Where should I store it so it is usable the next
time I go to get it? Is the Gorilla stuff any good? I've seen it used, and
it foams a lot. At the store, there seems to be about six varieties of
Elmer's. Something better? As anything, I assume joint preparation,
cleaning, and clamping until very dry are important parts. Should I put a
heater close to it for a couple of days?

Steve

On 12/29/2010 12:55 PM, Steve B wrote:
I have a chair that needs fixing. It has dowels that hold a curved arm in
place, and the dowels have been broken. I need to drill it out and replace
the dowels, and glue it back.

I have various sorts of glues in my shop, all seem to be old, separated, or
hard. So, I'll be off to buy a new container of glue. For joining raw
wood, what is the best? Where should I store it so it is usable the next
time I go to get it? Is the Gorilla stuff any good? I've seen it used, and
it foams a lot. At the store, there seems to be about six varieties of
Elmer's. Something better? As anything, I assume joint preparation,
cleaning, and clamping until very dry are important parts. Should I put a
heater close to it for a couple of days?

Most often for "furniture" repair, particular with antique/old pieces,
is a glue that can be undone in the future if need be ... this type of
glue has a better chance of maintaining the value of the piece:

http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Inter.../dp/B0002YXE7K

Follow the instructions. It can be purchased at Rocklers or WoodCraft
stores, as well as online as above.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Just plain old elmers white or carpenters glue will do well.
I don't like Gorilla glue. In my opinion it isn't that great.

just drill the hole and put glue in the hole and on the dowel.
I always take my dowels and put them in the back of linemans pliers
where they have the serated crimping area. That way the glue has a way
of pushing out of the hole.

clamp and keep it from freezing.. the warmer the better.

Storage is another issue. if you are not going to use it for a long time
by the smallest amount.
The glue only lasts maybe 3 or 4 years.

On 12/29/2010 1:55 PM, Steve B wrote:
eem to be old, separated, or
hard. So, I'll be off to buy a new container of glue. For joining raw
wood, what is the best? Where should I store it so it is usable the next
time I go to get it? Is the Gorilla stuff any good? I've seen it used, and
it foams a lot. At the store, there seems to be about six varieties of
Elmer's. Something better? As anything, I assume joint preparation,
cleaning, and clamping until very dry are important parts. Should I put a
heater close to it for a couple of days?

Steve

On 12/29/10 12:55 PM, Steve B wrote:
I have a chair that needs fixing. It has dowels that hold a curved arm in
place, and the dowels have been broken. I need to drill it out and replace
the dowels, and glue it back.

I have various sorts of glues in my shop, all seem to be old, separated, or
hard. So, I'll be off to buy a new container of glue. For joining raw
wood, what is the best? Where should I store it so it is usable the next
time I go to get it? Is the Gorilla stuff any good? I've seen it used, and
it foams a lot. At the store, there seems to be about six varieties of
Elmer's. Something better? As anything, I assume joint preparation,
cleaning, and clamping until very dry are important parts. Should I put a
heater close to it for a couple of days?

Steve


I just did that very thing on a friend's mass produced chair.
Straight up carpenter's yellow glue with do the trick. Gorilla glue and
other polyurethane glues aren't the best for clean wood to clean wood
contact and aren't as strong as regular wood glue.
The glue label will indicate the minimum operating temperature for
curing. Only heat if it's colder than that.
Wood glue can be stored anywhere as long as it's above freezing.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Wed, 29 Dec 2010 10:55:04 -0800, Steve B wrote:


I have various sorts of glues in my shop, all seem to be old, separated,
or hard. So, I'll be off to buy a new container of glue. For joining
raw wood, what is the best?

You sure got a lot of replies suggesting yellow glue or epoxy. If it's a
worthless mass produced chair, fine. Otherwise, or if you don't know,
I'd go with Swingman's suggestion and use hide glue.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 12/29/2010 1:55 PM, Steve B wrote:
I have a chair that needs fixing. It has dowels that hold a curved arm in
place, and the dowels have been broken. I need to drill it out and replace
the dowels, and glue it back.

I have various sorts of glues in my shop, all seem to be old, separated, or
hard. So, I'll be off to buy a new container of glue. For joining raw
wood, what is the best? Where should I store it so it is usable the next
time I go to get it? Is the Gorilla stuff any good? I've seen it used, and
it foams a lot. At the store, there seems to be about six varieties of
Elmer's. Something better? As anything, I assume joint preparation,
cleaning, and clamping until very dry are important parts. Should I put a
heater close to it for a couple of days?

Steve


I contemplated using gorilla glue to assemble a rocking chair. From what
others said here I didn't.
Thank goodness I asked.
I used white wood glue and it turned out well.
Since I had the gorilla glue, I used it to repair a small foot stool.
Too much weight had mad the short legs pull out the studs.
The glue was applied and wiped away a little that seeped out of the joints.
Came back after a few hours and the stuff had ozzed out everywhere, like
expanding urethane foam sealant. It migrated upward and filled a little
crack I hadn't seen.
Two hours of judicious use of a small chisel, pocketknife, and figer
nails got mos of the stuff off. It's still tacky.
We'll see how strong it is tommorrow.

On Dec 29 2010, 12:55*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
I have a chair that needs fixing. *It has dowels that hold a curved arm in
place, and the dowels have been broken. *I need to drill it out and replace
the dowels, and glue it back.

I have various sorts of glues in my shop, all seem to be old, separated, or
hard. *So, I'll be off to buy a new container of glue. *For joining raw
wood, what is the best? *Where should I store it so it is usable the next
time I go to get it? *Is the Gorilla stuff any good? *I've seen it used, and
it foams a lot. *At the store, there seems to be about six varieties of
Elmer's. *Something better? *As anything, I assume joint preparation,
cleaning, and clamping until very dry are important parts. *Should I put a
heater close to it for a couple of days?

Steve

Titebond II has been my glue of choice for many years. Reasonable
price and good, consistent results. I have used their darker III for
some outdoor projects but II does the job for most of my stuff.

I used the old foamy Gorilla a few years ago for an outdoor project
and found it to be foamy, messy, stainy, etc.; but it got the job
done. I did buy a small bottle of their newer cream colored outdoor
rated glue this fall for a weather application and it was less messy
and set pretty quick. I'm still a Titebond II guy. Just bone-headed
I guess.

Joints need to be straight, clean and dry. They should be clamped
firmly, but not overtightened. You want the glue to stay in the
joint. Titebond is usually dried in less than an hour (I think the
bottle says 30 minutes). I still keep it clamped up longer depending
on use. If the joint will be put under any stress, overnight is
best. Keep the temperature reasonable - above freezing or move the
work into a heated area.

There. I have probably said more than I know.

RonB

I used it once - needed it once. It was a old 4 legged foot stool.
I set a Tank flywheel, and anvil on to of it and made sure it was
square to the ground - and legs right. The next afternoon (work day)
I found the stool had pushed up the weight on one leg - the worst one
and more glue to expand I suppose. The stool was slightly off center
but tight. It finally came apart and it is in the shop for 1. trash or
2. try it again. Still thinking on that job. I think I might.
Might just drill new holes - but maybe I'll be lucky.

Martin

On 1/2/2011 7:31 PM, Little Abner wrote:
On 12/29/2010 1:55 PM, Steve B wrote:
I have a chair that needs fixing. It has dowels that hold a curved arm in
place, and the dowels have been broken. I need to drill it out and
replace
the dowels, and glue it back.

I have various sorts of glues in my shop, all seem to be old,
separated, or
hard. So, I'll be off to buy a new container of glue. For joining raw
wood, what is the best? Where should I store it so it is usable the next
time I go to get it? Is the Gorilla stuff any good? I've seen it used,
and
it foams a lot. At the store, there seems to be about six varieties of
Elmer's. Something better? As anything, I assume joint preparation,
cleaning, and clamping until very dry are important parts. Should I put a
heater close to it for a couple of days?

Steve


I contemplated using gorilla glue to assemble a rocking chair. From what
others said here I didn't.
Thank goodness I asked.
I used white wood glue and it turned out well.
Since I had the gorilla glue, I used it to repair a small foot stool.
Too much weight had mad the short legs pull out the studs.
The glue was applied and wiped away a little that seeped out of the joints.
Came back after a few hours and the stuff had ozzed out everywhere, like
expanding urethane foam sealant. It migrated upward and filled a little
crack I hadn't seen.
Two hours of judicious use of a small chisel, pocketknife, and figer
nails got mos of the stuff off. It's still tacky.
We'll see how strong it is tommorrow.