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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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wood/glass transition
I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I
want to stain and varnish the outside frame. What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? Blue painter's tape? Any other methods? Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
#2
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wood/glass transition
Steve B wrote:
I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? Blue painter's tape? Any other methods? Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com If it's an exterior door you actually want to lay a small beadof finish onto the glass to prevent moisture from getting between the wood and the glass. -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA |
#3
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wood/glass transition
For large thermal expansions, such as an outside door you would want
something that isn't cracked all the time. The glass needs to move against the wood and they have different thermal coefficients. Use a flexible clear caulking after you are done finishing. Yes, just use lots of tape. You will have a hard time getting the urethane off the frosted glass. You may want to cleanup with solvents before the urethane gets too hardened (a day or two, at most) "Nova" wrote in message b.com... If it's an exterior door you actually want to lay a small beadof finish onto the glass to prevent moisture from getting between the wood and the glass. Steve B wrote: I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? Blue painter's tape? Any other methods? Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA |
#4
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wood/glass transition
On Nov 10, 11:56*am, "Josepi" wrote:
For large thermal expansions, such as an outside door you would want something that isn't cracked all the time. The glass needs to move against the wood and they have different thermal coefficients. Use a flexible clear caulking after you are done finishing. Large thermal expansions? Where? It's a panel and frame door with "a large glass panel". The thermal coefficient of expansion of glass is 5, wood is about half that @10-6 in/in per degree F. So what's that add up to? In a 100F swing it's a couple or three thousandths. Not exactly a large amount. Caulking? How? Where? The door is assembled - you want him to do what, exactly? Force the caulk into a non-existent gap, or run it up on the edge of the wood? Both poor choices. Yes, just use lots of tape. You will have a hard time getting the urethane off the frosted glass. You may want to cleanup with solvents before the urethane gets too hardened (a day or two, at most) Lots of tape...are you assuming he has some palsy or something? He needs exactly one strip of tape running around the glass perimeter if he's refinishing while it's laying flat. If he's doing it while it's standing, then he'll mask off the all of the glass with plastic. R |
#5
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wood/glass transition
On 11/10/2010 12:17 PM, RicodJour wrote: On Nov 10, 11:56 am, wrote: For large thermal expansions, such as an outside door you would want something that isn't cracked all the time. The glass needs to move against the wood and they have different thermal coefficients. Use a flexible clear caulking after you are done finishing. Large thermal expansions? Where? It's a panel and frame door with "a large glass panel". The thermal coefficient of expansion of glass is 5, wood is about half that @10-6 in/in per degree F. So what's that add up to? In a 100F swing it's a couple or three thousandths. Not exactly a large amount. You are so wrong. You are talking strictly heat. The real culprit is woods naturaul expansion and contraction. I had my bay windows blow the seals because of the lack of enough growth area. Use a flexible caulk. And yes the blue painters tape or frog tape are good to protect stains and finishes. Caulking? How? Where? The door is assembled - you want him to do what, exactly? Force the caulk into a non-existent gap, or run it up on the edge of the wood? Both poor choices. Yes, just use lots of tape. You will have a hard time getting the urethane off the frosted glass. You may want to cleanup with solvents before the urethane gets too hardened (a day or two, at most) Lots of tape...are you assuming he has some palsy or something? He needs exactly one strip of tape running around the glass perimeter if he's refinishing while it's laying flat. If he's doing it while it's standing, then he'll mask off the all of the glass with plastic. R |
#6
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wood/glass transition
On Nov 10, 12:35*pm, tiredofspam nospam.nospam.com wrote:
On 11/10/2010 12:17 PM, RicodJour wrote: On Nov 10, 11:56 am, *wrote: For large thermal expansions, such as an outside door you would want something that isn't cracked all the time. The glass needs to move against the wood and they have different thermal coefficients. Use a flexible clear caulking after you are done finishing. Large thermal expansions? *Where? *It's a panel and frame door with "a large glass panel". *The thermal coefficient of expansion of glass is 5, wood is about half that @10-6 in/in per degree F. *So what's that add up to? *In a 100F swing it's a couple or three thousandths. *Not exactly a large amount. You are so wrong. You are talking strictly heat. The real culprit is woods naturaul expansion and contraction. I had my bay windows blow the seals because of the lack of enough growth area. Use a flexible caulk. And yes the blue painters tape or frog tape are good to protect stains and finishes. No, Josie and the Pussycats said _thermal_ expansion, and that's what I responded to. If you're talking about coefficients of expansion with respect to humidity, that obviously only applies to the glass. If the wood is well-sealed with a low permeability finish, there is minimal movement in the rails and stiles of a framed door. If there were a lot of movement all doors would require big gaps all the way around the door/jamb, and, well, that's not the case. BTW, your experience with your bay windows doesn't translate to anyone but yourself. No one knows how big the bay windows are, the number of panes, etc, etc. I would feel safe in assuming that you are comparing apples to oranges and extrapolating from there. Caulking? *How? *Where? *The door is assembled - you want him to do what, exactly? *Force the caulk into a non-existent gap, or run it up on the edge of the wood? *Both poor choices. Since you posted about the caulking above, you don't seem to have read my comments on caulking a non-existent gap. Where's the caulk supposed to go exactly? In small gaps, such as the OP's, paint or poly is the best sealant unless you want to goober up a nice wood door with visible caulk that is doomed to fail anyway. R |
#7
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wood/glass transition
Lots of tape...are you assuming he has some palsy or something?
R SPEW! lmao -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#8
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wood/glass transition
On 11/10/10 6:29 PM, cHips wrote:
shot a wad with; posted: ? Lots of tape...are you assuming he has some palsy or something? R SPEW! lmao I get you know Josie is FOS. What seems to be not apparent (to those responding) is the WHY it posts what it does.. or am I wrong about that? Are there those inr.w who would believe the followups are actually helping someone? No mail in the box, Mike.. is there a problem? I haven't a lot of time to spend with this. -------------chips @hushmail.com I'm not really interested in hearing you regale the tales of your stalking. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#9
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wood/glass transition
On Nov 10, 11:38*am, Nova wrote:
Steve B wrote: I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. *I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. *What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? *Blue painter's tape? *Any other methods? Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com If it's an exterior door you actually want to lay a small beadof finish * onto the glass to prevent moisture from getting between the wood and the glass. Like he said. On frosted glass paint is a bitch to clean off. Just place the tape ~1/16" from the wood. Use the green tape - it's more flexible, thinner, and there's less bleeding under the tape. Rub the tape's closest edge down with a cloth to make sure it's down tight. You may want to seal the closest edge of the tape with some shellac. That will prevent bleed under and it's easy to wipe off with alcohol which won't disturb your shiny new finish. R |
#10
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wood/glass transition
"Steve B" wrote in message ... I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? Blue painter's tape? Any other methods? Steve Sorry, interior door. |
#11
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wood/glass transition
On Nov 10, 4:11*pm, "Steve B" wrote:
"Steve B" wrote in message I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass.. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. *What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? *Blue painter's tape? *Any other methods? Steve Sorry, interior door. Temperature not a factor. Humidity a minimal/marginal factor. My advice stands. R |
#12
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wood/glass transition
On 11/10/10 3:30 PM, RicodJour wrote:
On Nov 10, 4:11 pm, "Steve wrote: "Steve wrote in message I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? Blue painter's tape? Any other methods? Steve Sorry, interior door. Temperature not a factor. Humidity a minimal/marginal factor. My advice stands. R I hope it's not an oak door or that glass is history. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#13
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wood/glass transition
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 11/10/10 3:30 PM, RicodJour wrote: On Nov 10, 4:11 pm, "Steve wrote: "Steve wrote in message I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? Blue painter's tape? Any other methods? Steve Sorry, interior door. Temperature not a factor. Humidity a minimal/marginal factor. My advice stands. R I hope it's not an oak door or that glass is history. :-) -- -MIKE- I don't believe they sell oak at Home Depot. I would say from its weight and color that it is pine or some other wood. Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
#14
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wood/glass transition
On 11/10/10 4:40 PM, Steve B wrote:
R I hope it's not an oak door or that glass is history. :-) -- -MIKE- I don't believe they sell oak at Home Depot. I would say from its weight and color that it is pine or some other wood. Steve Sorry, Steve. I was bringing up a joke from another thread. :-) -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#15
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wood/glass transition
Home Depot sells lots of door in oak. I am just finisshing one, right now
that almost fits the OP description. No frosted gals...that will come later after the Varathane layer hardens, with a decal with "wifey's pantry" or sommething like that. Special order to get ones without the muntin bars and just plain glass, in oak. Pantry doors were perfect, with their frosted glass and "Pantry" decor etched into them, if I could fit a 36" wide door. Now don't mention alcohol based stains to me or my palm sander. "Steve B" wrote in message ... I don't believe they sell oak at Home Depot. I would say from its weight and color that it is pine or some other wood. Steve |
#16
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wood/glass transition
On Nov 10, 4:45*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/10/10 3:30 PM, RicodJour wrote: On Nov 10, 4:11 pm, "Steve *wrote: "Steve *wrote in message I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. *What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? *Blue painter's tape? *Any other methods? Steve Sorry, interior door. Temperature not a factor. *Humidity a minimal/marginal factor. * My advice stands. R I hope it's not an oak door or that glass is history. * *:-) Not if you use stainless glass... |
#17
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wood/glass transition
On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 16:13:12 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote: On Nov 10, 4:45*pm, -MIKE- wrote: On 11/10/10 3:30 PM, RicodJour wrote: On Nov 10, 4:11 pm, "Steve *wrote: "Steve *wrote in message I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. *What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? *Blue painter's tape? *Any other methods? Steve Sorry, interior door. Temperature not a factor. *Humidity a minimal/marginal factor. * My advice stands. R I hope it's not an oak door or that glass is history. * *:-) Not if you use stainless glass... HAH! Oak rust will dissolve stainless glass just as easily. -- Education is when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get if you don't. -- Pete Seeger |
#18
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wood/glass transition
On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 08:22:38 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote: I just bought a door that has a large glass insert that is frosted glass. I want to stain and varnish the outside frame. What's the best to use to keep it off the glass? Blue painter's tape? Any other methods? Liquid frisket. -- Education is when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get if you don't. -- Pete Seeger |
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